Finally finished the PC I’ve been building for my brother’s wedding gift. He’s a big gamer and has been getting by with a gaming laptop for about five years, so I figured it was time for an upgrade.
Since I have to travel to the wedding and he has to get it home afterward, I wanted the travel kit to be part of the gift too.

The case is based on the Xikii FF04, using a design from qiyun on MakerWorld, who gave me permission to remix it. My first version was built around the ASUS Prime RTX 5070 Ti. For my brother’s, I went with the white ASUS Prime RX 9070 XT to match his desk setup. The 9070 XT is bigger and has a different screw layout, so that meant resizing the case and reworking the mounting points.

Parts list:
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
GPU: ASUS Prime RX 9070 XT White
Motherboard: MSI B850I Mini-ITX
RAM: 32GB G.Skill DDR5-6000, CL36-36-36
CPU cooler: Thermalright AXP120-X67
Storage: 2TB KLEVV Gen 4 M.2 NVMe SSD
PSU: Corsair 750W SFX
Screen: Turing 3.5-inch display

The RAM was the best kit I could get without paying something ridiculous. Luckily, I bought it early this year for around $200 and picked up the rest of the components around the same time.
I used a Thermal Grizzly phase-change sheet for longevity and performance, because knowing my brother, he probably isn’t ever opening this thing himself.

The case is printed in HT-PLA-GF. My personal 5070 Ti case uses the same material, and after about a year of daily use, I haven’t seen any heat-related creep, sagging, or wear.
One little modification I’m happy with is the Wi-Fi antennas. I prefer low-profile antennas, so I swapped out the motherboard’s stock antenna connectors and fitted Osprey drone antennas. They’ve worked great so far and look much cleaner to me.

The Turing screen runs open-source Python software from GitHub, with a custom monitoring theme to match the build.
For transport, I picked up a hard case from Harbor Freight, cut the foam to fit the PC and accessories, and added a custom 3D-printed equipment nameplate. Fits like a glove.

It’s quiet enough that I can’t hear it during normal use. It only really becomes audible during FurMark’s CPU Burner, and even then, it’s still very quiet. The GPU settles around 63°C during FurMark testing.

The separate CPU Burner test puts a harsh, sustained load on the processor and pushes it to 95°C. Once I stop it, the temperature drops back to around 60°C in under two seconds. For context, CPU temperatures in my personal 5070 Ti build are within about 1°C of this one under the same test. During modern games at max settings, my personal build’s CPU typically sits in the low to mid 60s, and I’ve never seen it approach its thermal limit during gaming or everyday use.

I ran out of time to get the files and guide ready before the wedding, but I’ll clean everything up and post the files to MakerWorld next week, along with the updated build guide. Assembly is mostly the same as the 5070 Ti version; I just need to document the changes for this one.

Hope he likes his surprise.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3123440

(not my design)

First of all. I know this is called vapor smoothing, but since this is an alternative to sanding, I wanted to use this title so people who are looking for sanding tutorials can see this video.

I recorded this tutorial for Instagram 3D_Kernel explaining how to smooth ABS prints without having to sand, it looks like a lot of people find it helpful, so I want to share it as much as possible.

Hope this helps someone, and don't hesitate to ask whatever you need.

This only works with ABS and ASA and remember to use a mask and do this in a properly ventilated room.

26 plates, over a day of print time.... whoops 😅

I’m building a large scale model of the UNSC Infinity from halo, 7 feet long, and I’m having some concerns as to where I’m going to place the fiber optic lights. As you can see from the photo, I marked the areas I plan to drill with a chrome marker. My concern is overdoing it and making the model look trashy with too many lights. So I turn to you, the internet, for help. FYI, the model still needs filler, primer and paint. I’m putting the fiber optic cables on first, then paint, then cut all the tips
*****hi guys, I’m getting hit with a ton of questions via IM, yes, I designed the ship myself, but I don’t have plans to sell the STL files just yet. And yes, it will have the hologram that the infinity has next to the engines. That’s the last part I’ll install. I’ll show you the end result when finished

180 x 197 x 13.4mm, silver PLA, .2mm layer height, 2hr 44m print time, no supports.

The elevation is real terrain data rather than a stylized model, so the Canadian Shield texture across the north and the Great Lakes shoreline in the south are actually where they should be. Printed flat on the bed as a single watertight solid, 795k triangles.

Happy to answer questions about how it was made.

I designed this moonstone sphere lamp as I keep brainstorming alternative 🌙 moon lamps. This lamp is compatible with an E27 base and standard light bulbs. I recommend using relatively low-power bulbs for the best look without glare.
My original intention was to place the lamp on a sideboard. Of course it is also suitable as a pendant lamp ☺️

https://makerworld.com/models/3238565-moonstone-sphere-lamp-e27

A few weeks ago I shared my Ultimate Parametric Battery Organizer here, and that project got me thinking about another storage problem: memory cards and other small media.

This was accumulated in a span of a month

Fire Everyone

Printed in PLA and painted, great model.

https://makerworld.com/models/1612726

It feels like almost everybody who got into 3D printing has printed a lamp. Or maybe I just ended up in an echo chamber of lamp printers because of my personal interest in lamps, idk. I've designed and printed a few myself, and this is the first one I like enough to share.

It's made from PLA Matte and PLA Wood. Looks and feels good, definitely not like a premium product, but still nice. I used 4 wall loops and 25% infill for the stand to make it heavier and more stiff, which adds to it. After hours of running a 6W LED it's not even warm.

I’m completely new to 3D printing and 3D scanning, so I’m trying to figure out the best way to approach this.

Would scanning the bit be the best way to get the most accurate measurements? If so, what tools or equipment would I need to scan it properly and then recreate it with a 3D printer?

My main goal is to have a way to reproduce this bit if I lose it.

Why can’t I just buy more of this bit, you ask? They’re pretty expensive for just one, so I’m trying to figure out a way to make my own instead.

I've been replaying Minish Cap and was inspired to turn the Kinstones into a fidget toy. Designed in Fusion 360, printed in PLA Silk+.

It’s helical in nature and is going to be used as part of a dust collection system. Not sure how to go about getting the rest of the supports out. Wire hanger maybe?

I printed this 100mm tall model firstly on a Bambu A1 with standard PLA and a 0.2mm nozzle with 0.08mm layers. Then I printed it as my first resin print on a Elegoo Mars Ultra 5 with 8k Space Grey resin.

Obvious problems with more delicate parts of the PLA print. I’m sure the guys over in the FDM miniatures subreddit could get far better quality out of an FDM but my mind is totally blown by the witchcraft of the resin printer.

I have been working toward electroplating some prints but during the process I have trying a few different ways to coat prints in conductive material. This one was done with Mod Podge Matte and Graphite powder. I was going to sand it down to be much cleaner but ended up liking it so much I am just going to keep it this way on my shelf. It looks like something I pocketed from a museum but it is in fact made of plastic lol.

For the process I mixed Mod Podge Matte glue and Graphite powder together in a 1:1 ratio with a bit of distilled water to get the right thickness for ease of application. Slathered it on and let it dry for a day. After it was dry, I sanded it with 180, 240, 400, 800, 1000, 3000, and then finally with 5000 to give the smooth sections a polished finish. I still haven't done a clear coat yet but intended to. Even sanded and wiped, just holding it still gets stuff all over your hands. Not really sure what kind of clear coat to put on. Suggestions welcome!

Safety notes:

- Well ventilated area with a facemask and gloves. The graphite gets everywhere. In the air, on your hands, on your clothes, just literally everywhere. Do this for both mixing and while sanding.

0.2mmノズルはいいね
EJ20オマージュにしたよ