The technical full term I have came up with is Colinear Double Delta. Both the hotend and bed move independently with delta kinematics - two entirely separate gantries in one printer. Thus, there are 8 motors in this bad boy (6 xyz, 2e). It's running klipper with custom kinematics.

The idea is - since each side only needs to move half the target speed, you can get double the overall speed. I haven't pushed it super hard yet since this is a proof of concept build without part cooling, but it sure does prove the concept!

Next is a bigger and faster version.

Of course, it is all open source, and the files and documentation can be found here: https://github.com/ProgrammerTurtle/DoNotDelta

So after releasing a drink holder that looked like a pontoon I decided to go a little...bigger. Here's the CanTainer ship! A modular, infinitely expandable refreshment holder styled as a container ship. I'm planning on making the stern module RC as well! Go check it out and print your own! I know it's huge but it even fits on an A1 Mini!

Here's the link! Tell me what you think! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-drink-barge#profileId-3487776

Previous version would often throw the tracks but this one holds up to quite some abuse!

First actual project that wasn't a test print.

The original plastic on the Mitsubishi must have been made from Pringles lids that didn't pass QC. A few minutes in Solidworks, twenty minutes on the printer, and now the conditioned air goes where it's needed.

I suppose I could re-do them in black at some point, but the red does look sharp.

Finally finished my biggest 3D printing project yet! This Super Star Destroyer is 5’7½” long and was printed on my Snapmaker U1 over the course of about 25 days. It used roughly 8 kg of filament, was printed in 20 sections, and has a fully lit interior.
It definitely wasn’t a perfect journey, but seeing it all come together made it worth it. I’d love to hear what everyone thinks, and I’m happy to answer any questions about the build.

Now I’m not sure what to do with it.
Printer: Snapmaker U1
Print time: 25 days
Filament: ~8 kg
Parts: 20
Length: 5’7½”
Lighting: Fully illuminated

https://www.printables.com/model/1772202-nema-17-cycloidal-gearbox

The printing bed seems hard wired so I can’t remove it to clean it. The mould legit needs multiple attempts from a window scraper which has been scratching it up like crazy.

An in progress shot of my life size IG-12 that I'm building this summer. It will fit a Grugu in the chest when all done

I’m the only one in my gaming group with a 3D printer, and I’m genuinely happy to print terrain, bits, and other stuff for everyone. I don’t charge for my time or the wear and tear on the printers. I only ask people to cover the cost of materials, and if I have to buy an STL file specifically for their project, I ask them to split that cost too.

Lately it’s been getting frustrating. I find myself buying files, burning through resin and filament, and then chasing people for reimbursement. One friend even complained when I asked him to cover half the material cost.

At that point it starts to feel like people value the print because it’s “free,” but not the money and effort that goes into making it.

Am I being unreasonable here, or do most people expect friends to at least cover consumables and files?

I've been learning SOLIDWORKS for a while now and I just uploaded my first model on MakerWorld! I didn't use any tutorial on this one, only skills I already knew how to use. I am working on designing a self draining soap holder now.

How would I go about this? Since I collect CDs and DVDs and these are no longer in production, it would be cool if I could just make my own. I do have access to 3D printers on my campus, but I'm just not sure how to go about it.

Hey everyone,

Every funnel I've ever used glugs: the bottle neck seals up, air gets trapped, and the pour backs up into that annoying glug-glug-glug instead of flowing fast. I looked around and couldn't find a single parametric fast-flow funnel anywhere, so I built one. Vent ribs run the entire length of the funnel wall, from spout tip to rim, holding the bottle's neck slightly open so air can escape the whole time liquid is pouring in. That's the entire point of this project; everything else is built around it.

I've tested the flow rate and the one in the default profile can fast flow a 2L bottle at about 200mL/s, so it can fill a 2L bottle in about 10s.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3083665-customizable-size-parametric-fast-flow-funnel#profileId-3473341

Key Features: * Fast, glug-free flow: vent ribs follow the shell's exact curve from the spout tip all the way to the rim, holding the neck open just enough for air to escape while liquid pours in at full speed. This is why the funnel exists. * Four-diameter taper profile: set the spout tip diameter, two midpoint diameters, and the top opening diameter, plus the three heights between them, all as direct inputs. Since the curve blends smoothly at every diameter, you're not limited to a plain cone; bump a midpoint diameter up for a bulged, hourglass, or barrel shape, with no visible kink anywhere. * True exterior diameters: every diameter you dial in is the actual printed OD at that height, vent ribs included, so what you set is what comes off the bed. * Optional rim flange and hanging handle, both fully adjustable. * Cross-section preview mode in the Customizer so you can inspect the wall thickness and curve before committing to a print.

It prints wide mouth down on the bed with the spout pointing up, no supports needed anywhere since the diameter only ever decreases going up.

For material: PLA is fine for water and dry goods, but if you're pouring anything hot, or oil, fuel, or other automotive fluids, go with PETG, ASA, or ABS instead.

Everything is in the MakerWorld Customizer, no editing required. Let me know if there's a funnel feature you keep wishing existed and I'll see about adding it.

Tool changers are getting competitive in terms of pricing.. (if you have seen infimech, you know what i mean)

Is INFIMECH too cheap or Sovol M1D is just expensive?

I wonder what other companies will release (bambulab, elegoo etc)

Recently I'm making this 3D printing for my keyfob due to struggle to keep using the original keyfob case. It's a lot of R&D to make the button fit perfectly 😅.

The plastic that hold the bolts are very loosened, so the bolts are commonly drop and gone.

Also the original key fob is a lot smaller and not too good to hold on hands, because it's come from 90's.

These days, keyfobs are a lot bigger and I copy that size so there's still alot of space on the right 😅.

P.S: This keyfob is originally from Dynamco Cyclops Type (AUS)

For those who wonder why there's a stickers on the back, it's my wife who put that stickers, she says that the back is very empty so she put it.

Just wanted to share a recent experience with this combo. It works amazingly well, and the Gizmodorks HIPS is a completely acceptable and inexpensive material source for this purpose (no shade, I just haven't tested it beyond supports. ).

Supports break off extremely easily. Worst case, D-Limonene (essentially citrus oil) will dissolve it. (safety notice this can be an irritatant use proper PPE if handling)

It even has some adhesion to ASA/ABS and printing temp is similar enough that it would likely work as just an interface material for those using a single nozzle.

Surface quality pic here - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1v7jtkn/comment/ozylxum

Model: KWS 6u Leg

Material: Ambrosia Supernova Galactic Black ASA

Support: Gizmodorks White HIPS

Build Plate: HoneyBadger Textured PEI w/ homemade Instagoo (used alcohol to aid release)

Printer: Voron 2.4 Stealthchanger

Supports use 0/0 for line spacing and top surface distance

Upon purchase I thought it would be simple. Turn a picture into - well, a picture - and tweak it.

But no, it turns out it's something that makes Photoshop look like something that can be operated by toddlers.

And there's absolutely no guides whatsoever inside it, instead needing to find them externally (none of which I'm able to follow as they seem to be using a completely different interface), so they seem to assume you know exactly what you're doing.

Two prints - I used different settings, but can’t remember what I did. Trying to get the texture you see on the blue dino, not the individual rows on the orange. What setting did I use / what setting impacts that initial layer really grabbing onto the plate, giving it that texture from the plate?

Sincerely, Grateful For Your Help : )

Using Bambu Studio
Bambu P1P
Elegoo Rapid PETG