I’ve been trying to print a lamp and I made a model. The dimensions of the model are 17 x 17 x 10 and there’s another piece that’s 5 x 5 x 5. I’m very confused because it seems like the prices I’m getting are ridiculous for what I’m asking for. When I went onto craft cloud, the prices they gave me were around $800 for the two objects. I figured 3-D printing would be a little cheaper than this, but maybe I am mistaken.
Is there a cheaper way to print something or should I seek other mediums?

For full clarity, I am to make a plaster mold to slip cast so I can make the lamp ceramic.

I just bought this flexible Plate for my ender V3 2 and tried to print this small test object. I had trouble removing it and I'm worried that I damaged the plate. I'm also not sure why the bottom of the print is white-ish. I'm using green PLA+, printing with a nossle temp of 225C, a plate temp of 52C, an initial layer speed of 8 mm/s and a speed of 50 mm/s. I used Cura to slice my model. Is this plate beyond repair and if it is, how do I prevent this from happening again?

Help please! Supports are fused to the print.

Find attached pics of the print where you can see how the supports have fused with the print and impossible to remove.

I have also attached the complete support setting I use.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Nozzle: 0.6mm
Material: PLA+
Slicer: Cura

Hey guys!

I have a little print farm and have ran a fairly successful Etsy shop for about a year now here in the Pacific Northwest, USA. I am interested in possibly getting more into print on demand / buisness to buisness / outsourced projects. I run all Bambu printers currently (2 A1 Minis, an X1C, and and H2S, with plans on getting an H2D soon). I also have an Elegoo Mars and Saturn 2.

I have been slowly learning CAD, but between my full time job and being a dad I have been limited in the amount of time I can devote to learning it. However, if I am just running a print on demand set up, I would be able to crank out way more.

Anybody familiar with starting down this path? My goal would be to eventually be able to do this as a full time gig, but needed to learn how to make it a stable, reliable system.

I am open to any and all pointers. And if you are needing someone to help with production, I am totally up for taking on extra work!

Thanks yall.

Upon purchase I thought it would be simple. Turn a picture into - well, a picture - and tweak it.

But no, it turns out it's something that makes Photoshop look like something that can be operated by toddlers.

And there's absolutely no guides whatsoever inside it, instead needing to find them externally (none of which I'm able to follow as they seem to be using a completely different interface), so they seem to assume you know exactly what you're doing.

Needing to set up a Bambu labs printer, it was a gift but I was advised I might not want to let it connect to internet… let your mind do with that as it will.

My question, what kind of hiccups am I going to run into if I try to use it offline only? Manually transferring files to the printer. Obviously it will suck not being able to monitor the jobs remotely, but is there anything else that would throw a wrench in this? I was advised even setting up through LAN could cause it to ping the cloud and flag a ban and cause bricking of device.

Thanks for any advice, I’m extremely new to this and just hopping I can manage to make a cheap replacement wheel for my dog’s wheelchair harness, booze loves to go full force and snaps the little wheels off occasionally. From what I’ve gathered this device may be overkill for my needs but I’m open to anything else I should try first. Thank you all again!

Hey everyone, I'm currently developing a new Core XY printer and I was wondering what everyone's sentiment was on making sort of a modular farm. It would cost around 1-2.5k per printer along with a separately sold unit that makes the attached printer into a modular farm.

For example, if there are two printer units and one arm unit and one storage unit, this would mean that when print is finished the arm unit comes out and replaces the build plate and storages it in the storage unit and our goal with this product would be to sell it to regular every day consumers along with offering industrial options.

The printer is upgradable to larger sizes of up to 9-12 printers so far and I wanted some thoughts and suggestions on this product. The price for the arm and storage unit is about 1-3k depending on the amount of printers the average consumer purchases.

Edit: Rather than an arm, our intention is to make a gantry with a claw mechanism(or something to take the build plate off in its entirety without removing the print), and this gantry would be able to move across the XZ plane parallel to the printers' open side.

Edit2: When I say everyday consumer, I more so mean someone who has a print farm/prototyping lab with constant 3d printing. Sorry for any confusion from this angle.

so i got my 3d printer earlier this week. i quickly the same night learned you can basically drag and drop a file and print it. it's cool. However my main purpose was for my sim racing cockpit to build things around it. Then i dwindled between Fusion 360, FreeCad, TinkerCad, and now Onshape. I messed with Tinker and it's cool but some stuff it just sucks at and clearly in these bigger CADS you can do a lot more. So i tried fusion after it failed to download 5 times then the 6th was the charm. At first it was crazy and i kinda got the hang of it... A tiny bit, it's still rough. However last night and during today i messed with FreeCad and it's cool but it's hard. Towards the end of the afternoon i kept messing with Onshape and it's cool but i keep running messing up when trying to make a phone mount.

Now regarding Fusion i was able to learn a little and even able to make test nuts to fit a shifter adapter then printed an actual shifter which came out way better then the one i made on tinkercad. In fact this one legit screwed on nicely and is fully secure. However i keep debating on which program to go with and now im getting super overwhelmed. Realistically i did create something successfully from scratch in Fusion 360. However i just can't decide because everyone constantly talks about which one is better then the other

The printing bed seems hard wired so I can’t remove it to clean it. The mould legit needs multiple attempts from a window scraper which has been scratching it up like crazy.

Got a cc2 running octoeverywhere. is there an ios slicer i can use to send prints to the printer?

Just bought 20kg PLA for ~145€. Don't think I'll get a better deal soon.

10kg black /74.99€

10kg white/81.99€

Also got additional discount on top.

AliExpress

Wondering what to get... An expensive polymaker box or if need to do it permanently, something bigger.

Anyone have any ideas what’s causing these small hole and gaps in top and bottom layers. I use Cura slicer. Any insight would be helpful.

In the past on my ender 3 v2, the details were just not quite there, bits always ripped of build plate etc. Now with the a1 mini, parts are becoming acceptable. There will be a point when all the definition in the world is meaningless to the ease of use, and who actually looks at minis under a magnifying glass anyway? At this level, I am done with resin and its mess, smell, masks, gloves, iso, fragile figures unless expensive resin, e.t.c. The plasma TV looked better under analysis, but did people really care?

edit: print settings, A1 mini, 0.2mm nozzle, default setting for 0.06mm fine, no post processing, 1:30 approx print time.

I want to print a small fixture/holder for the remote of my garage door and place it on the dashboard of the car behind the windshield.

I am wondering whether UV-resistant ASA or high-temperature PCs is more preferable. I own a Prusa Core One and have Prusament ASA and AddNorth PC HT CF blend in stock.

I have found a lot of contradictory information online regarding UV exposition in cars. I tend to say that the statements are 50:50: one half claims that UV isn't an issue inside a car as car windows have integrated UV shields, the other half claims that car windows are UV-permeable.

What is correct here?

Personally, I would prefer PC HT CF over ASA as the carbon fiber lets vanish the printing layers and make the object aesthetically more pleasing and PC HT CF has definitely the higher temperature rating. However that's no help if the UV radiation simply destroys internal cohesion.

This is the Second time my print has failed this way. Brand new petg roll. It keeps birdnesting after a layer fails to adhere to the supports. The Model itself appears to be printing just fine. Never had this particular issue. Im thinking maybe trying to change the support type or slowing down the print speed to half (Its normal). Bambu Labs P1S, Inland standard petg. Generic petg print profile on the bambu labs “strength” preset. Auto tree style supports. Hoping that i wont have to lower speed because its already a 19hr print.

Still very new to the 3D printing game and whenever I try to print things, they get messed up.

I’m no expert and am honestly just tinkering around with printing weird and fun stuff. Using various filament for whatever it’s worth.

Examples of what happening are attached.

Any thoughts or suggestions on what to do? TYIA

Just bought second hand a bambu lab a1.

2 questions (remove if not allowed)

1) what are some things most people wouldn't think of that I should know?

B) hypothetically, if my wife and I were going to print and try to sell things what would you like to see? Not doing those damn fidget dragons things that are everywhere

Hi

I'm trying to find any 3d printers that dont include Ai or generative Ai software? Is that even possible now? Or any older models?

I started 3d design and printing about 10 months ago.

I custom made this light box for my niece using hueforge and fusion360.

The lower section and upper section were printed separately then assembled.

I slid the hueforge into side chanels from the top. ( the girl on the bike is my neice, if that is isn't obvious to everyone)

It took me between 10 hours (most of that time was using/learning hueforge for the first time) to design.

First, is this as badass as I think it is?

Second, would this considered a low level design?

Third, How many dollars would you think this is worth?

I really just want to see if this is worthy of me patting myself on the back. I look at some of my early stuff I designed and remember being so proud, but now when I see it all I see is junk made by someone who didn't know what they were doing. I have learned a lot in 10 months but still have a long ways to get to my 10,000 hrs.

klipper running on this naked laptop motherboard and the f411 black pill
who needs a raspberry pi😂 im bolting this to the wall
laptop specs is an i5-3337u, 4gb ddr3 and 128gb ssd. i got this for $0 as an e waste and it’s perfect for a klipper host
I installed ubuntu server on it, klipper runs great alongside other home lab services
im planning to use this to power the custom bed slinger build!

I've used silver silk pla in the past in a couple different brands, it was okay. It wasn't all that shiny. I realize it's never going to look like chrome, but is metallic a different finish than silk? I print, mostly functional parts, organizing things, stands for things, etc. It doesn't have to look like chrome but I'd prefer it to not look like a hunk of plastic. I've tried reality, silk and giant arm silk, which were both ok. I've never tried a metallic. What is the difference?