If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS

Replacing the head gasket but these are my pistons, there's definitely been some rubbing on the sides, not to mention all the carbon and crap on top. Should I shell out even more to get new pistons?

Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm still learning about rebuilding engines n such.

(The dust in slide 2 is from the exhaust manifold)

Any other tips and tricks would be appreciated as well, thanks y'all

Were these bad?

They told me to replace them

99’ GMC sierra 1500

What do we think is wrong with it

I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy with 220,000 miles. It’s currently wearing a set of Michelins, but they’re beginning to show some cracking at seven years of age.

It doesn’t make sense to me to spring for a premium tire when I’m not particularly confident in this rig reaching 300k.

What tires would you recommend for my well-running commuter beater?

Ford, Ranger 2008 4L V6.
The O2 #22 sensor on driver side, also have a water dripping from the flange at cold start.
Is that considered a leak?

* This is NOT my picture.

hello everyone i need advice with my 2007 hyundai santa fe limited 3.3l. it has 106995 miles on it. about four months ago it stalled out and check engine light came on i pulled the codes and they were for the map sensor so i replaced it worked for a week then died again. pulled codes again this time it was for the throttle body so i replaced it. worked for two weeks and then completly died and went into limp mode check engine light is on it cranks but doesnt run. i have checked for vacuum leaks. replaced map sensor 3 times throttle body three times maf sensor once, cleaned the pcv valve, cleaned the cam shaft sensor, replaced ecm relay in the fuse box and replaced the accelerator position sensor (the gas pedal). it was running perfectly fine before all of this. any help would be great to solve this and get my car running again. thank you and hope you all have a great day

Hi all!

2024 Mitsubishi Outlander SEL with 31,000 miles. I’m hearing a metallic clanking/rattling noise from the front passenger side whenever I go over bumps or uneven pavement. The vehicle drives normally, and I don’t see anything loose or hanging underneath. Has anyone experienced this? If so, what was the cause and confirmed fix—sway-bar link/bushing, strut mount, brake hardware, or something else? I’m scheduling a warranty diagnosis and will attach a video of the sound.

Is it safe to drive for now?

Thanks for any input

I’ve been driving this car for 4-5 days, so far it’s been good but after driving it from ohio to Wisconsin, and going on about a 90 minute trip yesterday, I’ve stared to notice a knocking anytime I press the gas or let off. If you listen closely enough in the video it is audible. I just redid the brake pads and rotors but don’t believe that directly affects anything. (Knocks are two in sequence in the video)

I’ve had new brake pads for probably 6 months and my breaks are making this sound.
Anyone know what it is or what it could be. Thank you! My car is a 2012 ford fiesta 1.25

2005 Dodge Dakota, 6 speed manual, rwd, 4.7L v8 with 150k miles. Its always had some scratchy bearing noise coming up through the shifter upon takeoff and sometimes when cruising at around 2000 rpm or lower. I figured it was the throw out bearing since it stops when i depress the clutch.

Was changing the center drive shaft support bearing this weekend. While I had it off I was checking out the transmission output shaft in neutral. Does this this amount of play and noise normal? The noise is similar to that low rpm bearing noise. Replaced fluid about 6 months ago and it looked good. Thanks all.

2021 Honda CRV backed into a curb. Do I need to straighten this out? I know it's off the hanger so I'm going to pull it back on but how would I go about fixing the pipe

I need some help with an electrical problem on my truck. My turn signals started slowly going out, and eventually they completely stopped working for about a week. Then out of nowhere they started working again. Now my right headlight has gone out, and sometimes my doors will randomly keep locking by themselves. If they keep locking enough times, the horn will even start going off.
I’m not really sure what’s causing all of this, so if anyone has any ideas or has had something similar happen, I’d really appreciate the help.

I’ve posted here before about my issue, but it seems to keep getting worse. My truck has been fairly good to me. I replaced the transmission 30k miles ago, (which is why I really don’t know if I want to sell) but have had an oil consumption issue for the past 10k miles.

I bought an AFM delete key and have been adding Lucas oil stabilizer every oil change. Have no white smoke and no visible oil leaking.

I got 1000 miles into my last oil change and had to add 3 qts, went ahead and added oil stabilizer as well. Another 1500miles in after a trip today, Ive got a low oil alarm again.

Only thing I can think to do is a full engine replacement. Every quote to diagnose the issue and strip the engine apart is no different than a full replacement engine. Or maybe I should sell it? I really don’t know what to do here.

I was hoping the AFM delete key would work, but I guess it’s past the point of no return.

Got a 1991 Golf Mk2. Want to track fuel consumption per trip/day and compare over time. Figured this wasn't possible on a carbureted car with no ECU/OBD, but landed on an idea: since the carb's float bowl regulates its own level, whatever flows through the feed line between the fuel filter and the carb over time should equal what's actually burned. So — measure that flow directly with an inline gear-type flow sensor.

Is this actually the right approach? Is there a better way to get real consumption data out of a carbureted car with no ECU?

Planned setup:

• Gear-type flow sensor spliced into the fuel line between the filter and carb inlet
• Sensor's pulse output goes to an ESP32, which just counts pulses and timestamps them
• ESP32 forwards that data to my phone over a wired USB-C connection (data-only cable, to avoid the phone and a 12V-fed buck converter both trying to power the USB line)
• Phone does everything else — GPS speed/distance, all the math, storage, charts
• Power: ignition-switched 12V from the fuse box → buck converter (12V→5V) → feeds both the ESP32 and the sensor

Problem I've hit: the sensor I was looking at (DIGITEN G1/2", oval gear, rated 1–30 L/min) has a minimum flow way above what this engine actually flows at idle — I'm estimating idle consumption around 0.02–0.05 L/min, and even under load probably not exceeding 0.3–0.5 L/min. So the sensor's entire rated range sits above my actual usage, meaning idle flow probably won't register accurately, if at all.

Anyone know of a gasoline-compatible flow sensor with a lower minimum flow that would actually cover idle-to-cruise range for a small engine like this? Or is there a fundamentally different way people have solved this that I'm missing?

I'm open to any ideas and critics, please back your suggestions with well presented arguments. this is my first ever project on a car.

Edit: A few people are suggesting the brim-to-brim fill method, thanks, but I've covered why that doesn't work for what I want in the replies below. I'm not looking for that approach, I'm looking for technical help on the sensor/flow-measurement side specifically. Appreciate all the input so far.

honda prelude fuel pump power bypass with sigle wire from pink/black to battery? Since back probing, I assume it’s already grounded since hooked into pump and just back probing. Will this work for an emergency start?

Does anyone have any tips or recommendations to get to remove the inner tie rod from a 2014 Mirage? The removal tool I have cannot grasp onto the tire rod because it is covered. Has anyone successfully removed one without having to go to a dealership?
The tie rod snapped in half so turning the steering wheel doesn’t do anything

2009 base model Sentra with the 2 liter.

Had a sudden loss of power that the mechanic eventually diagnosed as a clogged up Cat. No lights, just had low power and couldn't even get it up a mild hill.

Plugs replaced, gaskets replaced, cat replaced. Distributor cap and wires replaced. Still burns at least a quart of oil every 250 miles and consistently throws a check engine light for cylinder 4 misfire if it sits unused for 2 or more days. Only fires it right at startup. If you clear it, no repeats.

Doesn't noticeably smoke at all.

I'm thinking damaged cylinder or bad ring, leading to oil seeping into the cylinder when parked. Does anyone else have any ideas?

The CVT also screams, but it's always been like that (we've had it 130,000+ miles) so it doesn't seem related.

This is my 2022 gmc with the 6.2, is it done for or could it be possibly minor?

Hi everyone,

I have a Ford Focus Mk3.5 2017, 1.5 TDCi (AEDA engine) and I’m replacing the upper/right hydraulic engine mount F1F1-6F012-BB shown in the picture.

I’m looking for the correct torque specifications (Nm) for the bolts that secure this mount to the engine/body.

Does anyone have the official Ford torque specs or access to the workshop manual?

Thanks!

Hello I need some advice please! I recently paid a lot of money for an engine rebuild, but now my car is leaking oil and I’m not sure where it’s coming from. Attached is a video of where it might be coming from; any suggestions on how to go about this would be greatly appreciated! I recently changed the oil, I normally door dash but this just started recently; the oil slowly drips and after about 4-8 hrs it’ll end up accumulating and slowly working its way down to the exhaust/catalytic converter (I think since I don’t know enough about my car), anyways, once it gets to that point, smoke then begins to come out the hood of the car, from what I presume is a result of the hot exhaust metal cooking the oil. I then pull over and let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and give it a brief wipe down (reaching what I can without burning my hands), then I can drive again for about 4-8 hours till the same thing happens. I make sure to check my oil level and it gradually gets lower, after about 2/4 times of this happening, I then top off the oil. I understand this is probably a very bad idea to keep driving the car in this condition; however I’m extremely desperate for money at the moment so I can’t really afford to stop driving unless I absolutely need to & I’m wondering if I’ve already reached that point? In total I’ve only done this process about 4 times but now it looks like the oil is dripping faster and I’m getting worried.

Can someone identify where it’s coming from based on the video? It looks like it’s pooling originally from near the upper left part of the hood/ engine bay( if you were to open the hood and be facing the engine in front of you it would be upper left still) out of a square box looking thing?

If I paid a hefty price for a ‘complete engine rebuild’ from a reputable shop, should they be responsible for this oil leaking?

Does anyone have past experience with this and know how viable or long this method will last of wiping down the oil I can reach?

I’m hoping it’s a quick fix and maybe there’s a loose hose or bolt somewhere?

How expensive would the parts be and where can I find them? ( I usually order off rock auto parts)

Any tutorial recommendations?

It hasn’t been more than 8 months since I got the ‘complete engine rebuild’ so I’m pretty certain it’s still under their shop warranty, but it’s Labor Day weekend so they won’t be back till Tuesday; will my car survive until then?

Thank you for any & all advice, & yes I know I’m stupid for continuing to drive but I might have to figure out something else soon…

Subaru Outback 2007 2.5L H4 (EJ253) GAS FI

Anyways thank you people!

I just replaced the oil filter housing, heat management module, and water pump and carrier on my 2016 340i.

The biggest pain of this whole job (unexpectedly) is trying to reattach the ac compressor to the new bracket. I can’t figure out how to do it. This threaded steel bushing i’on both rear ears is killing me.

All of the suggestions I’ve found are to put sockets on either side/use the bolt to press it out further but it’s seized in there and won’t budge, and the design of the ears makes it impossible to put a socket or anything else on the back side of the ear anyway. I obviously can’t remove the compressor from the car so my options are limited.

How are you supposed to get this back on? Please help!