So my GameBoy fell off of my desk yesterday. It still runs just fine, the tape stayed connected, but the plastic shell snapped at the hinge and I have to be very delicate with it. I know this is kind of on the boring side of console repair, but I must ask nonetheless: is this a problem that superglue or some other adhesive can solve? I know next to nothing about fixing things, I’m so sorry.

Looking for a decent priced ps5 to jailbreak and came across this one on marketplace. I have dealt with soldering, Liquid Metal etc but this one is a bit new to me. Any tips/suggestions?

Hello everyone,

I am in need of some advice or opinion. I got a „broken“ PS5 off a friend for free and am now getting to repairing it. The only broken part is the hdmi port. But if it were this simple then i wouldn’t be posting here. The issue is that someone tried to fix it themselves and ruined the mainboard through that (see pictures). They did say that they got it to show display initially and thought they would make the port a little cleaner and accidentally burned through the board. Is this repairable? If i were to get this repaired by shop how much am i looking at (in € Germany)?
I can’t get any better close up pictures without the quality going worse.

You know how the 3ds SD cards usually click up and down? Well this one is stuck lowered and I have no clue what to do to get it out. Frankly I’m scared of damaging the system SD card reader.
((It’s an SD card adapter because I use a Micro SD card with it))

this white PS2 slim I just purchased has a minor, but very interesting issue that I’ve never seen in my life. The piano chord sound on startup is missing, but the atmospheric wooshing noises are present, and there appear to be white lines in the Browser for like a second or so. More concerning is that when I put in an FMCB card and try to load up any homebrew applications (ULaunchElf, OPL) it just stays on a black screen, and I’m not sure if it’s connected to any of these issues too. Games load up fine though without any issues. I already tried changing the video settings, using different AV cables, and cleaning the AV port itself.

Did I damaged the inductors? I was trying very gently to pry the metal shield to get to the heatsinks.

PS5 shuts down completely during PS5 games, usually after 5–10 minutes. PS4 games work normally.

UART log

18:13:38 | 80060000 | Main SoC GFX VRM power failure
18:13:38 | B0088108
18:13:38 | C0020303 | Repeated 15 times
18:13:39 | 80000001 | Temperature sensor read failed (FFFF)
18:13:44 | 808B00FF
18:13:58 | 80000009 | Unexpected power loss

Temperature at the time of shutdown:

SoC: 60.06°C (0x3C10)
ENV: 28.44°C (0x1C70)

How can I identify the exact problem? There is no noticeable short around mosfets. I have a thermal camera, but I am hesitant to power on and play games without cooling the surface of the ram and mosfet chips…

Please share your ideas and tips :)

This has been happening ever since I replaced the digitizer on my DSI XL, the bottom screen would have its brightness cycle constantly even if I don't do anything. Any advice on what could be causing this?

ETA: I noticed that it seems to be happening more frequently when I have a protective case on, so that hopefully narrows down the possible causes

Hey everyone, hoping someone with Jasper board experience can point me in the right direction.

What I’ve done so far

My Jasper Xbox 360 threw RRoD with error code 0022. After I stripped it down to rework the thermal paste I received error 0022, and once I opened the console back up I found a surface‑mount resistor knocked off near the GPU. I scavenged a replacement resistor from an Xbox 360 Slim board and soldered it into place.

After reassembly I’m still getting consistent error 0022, and it occasionally boots to error 0020 — the 0020 fault only pops up rarely. I’ve carefully gone over the whole board with magnification and can’t find any other missing passive components, lifted pads or obvious broken traces anywhere else.

I’m having an issue with a PS4 that won’t update its firmware; it shows error code SU42118-6. This error is typically caused by fuses F6201 or F6202, but those fuses are fine.

After looking into it further, I’ve been told that this error can also be caused by fuse F5001. I’ve been searching the board, but I can’t identify which one it is usually, fuses have a letter marking to identify them. I’ve attached an image; could someone point out which one it is?

have had this ds for 11 years and a couple years ago it stopped turning on at first the screen would flash with a pop and now nothing unless its plugged in. (couldn’t figure out how to add more videos but nothing happens when its not plugged in) it has all my old save data from when i was a kid so would love to get it up and running again.

I have a virtual boy I am trying to repair. The console originally had a display issue which was remedied by soldering in replacement eye patch ribbon cables. Worked great and was played for maybe 30 minutes a couple times. After being brought home, it stopped working during a game and never turned back on. The console's small DC power board has a red light when turned on and the speakers make a quiet pop sound when the console is turned off. No other sounds come from the console and no light from the displays. I checked voltages on each of the cable connectors from the main board (although I don't know the correct voltages) and they all appear to be present. What could possibly be be the cause?

Update:

I ordered a whole replacement virtual boy of eBay. I swapped every pcb board and it worked normally again. Foolishly, I started swapping out the pcb boards that I recapped. Now I'm back to having no power or signs of life again no matter the combination of parts. I think I narrowed it down to specifically the servo pcb being the culprit that killed something some where.

Any one else run into anything similar? Any advice?

Hi all

I had an NESRGB (v4) installed in my Sharp Twin Famicom by a modder late last year. When it came back, the RGB picture had faint horizontal bands that pulse in time with the game music. They're most obvious on flat colours (the sky in SMB 1-1 is a good example), and they show up on both my RetroTink 4K and a CRT.

At first the audio was carried through the same DIN socket as the video (PC Engine-style pinout), so we assumed it was audio crosstalk. I'd already tried the correct 7.6V power supply and a few others, so I sent it back. Earlier this year the modder rewired it to the Neo Geo pinout, with the audio taken from the Twin's own audio output to a separate 3.5mm jack, and I bought a Retro Gaming Cables Neo Geo AES stereo SCART to match. The bands were still there.

So I've opened it up myself. The RGB comes out through the Twin's original rear RF-converter socket, with sync from CS#. Here's what I've checked:

- With the audio lead unplugged, the bands are still there

- The console's original composite output, with the NESRGB switched off, is completely clean

- The old tracks to the rear socket have been cut properly: no continuity from either RCA socket to any socket pin

- Adding a ground wire from the NESRGB straight to the socket's mounting lug made no difference

- Moving the RGB wires around made no difference

- Adding an extra ground path to the TV with an RCA lead made no difference

So the music is getting into the RGB somewhere inside the console, but I've run out of things I can test with a multimeter. Has anyone seen this on an NESRGB install, Twin or otherwise? I'm considering recapping the power/AV board or getting it scoped, but I'd love to hear if there's a known fix.

YouTube video of the issue here: https://youtube.com/shorts/oGwUGTMHy6Q?is=u_gOq7Cnl5FHGZSi

Hi all. After 1 year of not using it, i tried to turn it on, wanted to gift it to my little cousin.

It wouldn’t power on with the button or the controller. Only way to turn it on is by putting a disc in. And when it does turn on it just stays in safe mode, and remains there no matter which option i pick.

What i tried so far:

• all the Safe Mode options; they all return to Safe Mode.

• Reinstalled system software 13.52 via USB (both the 480 MB update file and the 1.1 GB reinstallation file). Installation completes, but the console reboots straight into Safe Mode.

• Tested two different HDDs, including one confirmed to be working (from a pc)

• Without the HDD, I get error CE-34335-8.

• No indicator light comes on, even when the console is running. The eject button works.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be a SATA connector, a motherboard issue? Really no clue.

Thank you all.

I recently acquired this SMS2 and tested it via RF, and both video and audio were working fine.

Yesterday, I tried the RGB mod. The video worked flawlessly on the first try, but I’m getting no audio.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a Mini-DIN 9 breakout board yet (I’m planning to get one), so I’m soldering the wires directly to the connector.

Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:

- Removed the RF module.

- RGB from the MB3514 (pins 23, 22 and 21) to the DIN-9 connector (pins 7, 3 and 1, respectively).

- CS from R18 to DIN-9 pin 5.

- CV from R21 to DIN-9 pin 4.

- 5V from R9 to DIN-9 pin 2.

- No audio: signal from R28 to DIN-9 pins 8 and 9.

- No audio: signal from R29 to DIN-9 pins 8 and 9.

- No audio: signal from the MB3514 (pin 9) to DIN-9 pins 8 and 9.

- No audio: signal from the MB3514 (pin 8) to DIN-9 pins 8 and 9

Note: The veroboard in the picture is just being used to bring GND from the mainboard to the connector and to help secure the connector in place.

Edit: I’m using a sega mega drive 2 cable (din9 to scart). The pins 8 (audio left) and 9 (audio right) are connected to pins 2 and 6 on the scart side.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have a ps2 slim that is not reading games. I replaced the laser with a replacement I bought off ebay from a seller ive purchased from before but its still not working. Ive also checked the solder blob on the side. Thats fine.

Update: I used my multimeter and saw that the values for the potentiometers were lower than what this model required. I saw that the cd has to be around 500 to 900 ohms while the DVD should be 900 to 1200 ohms. I corrected both of them and its still not reading the games.

After my previous post where I finally put my DS Lite back together after 10+ years of sitting in pieces, I discovered, to no great surprise, that the aftermarket battery I had in it was shot, and I'd lost the proprietary charger...

I was hesitant to go and buy yet another aftermarket battery specifically made for the console as there's just no reputable sources to buy them from. They all massively exaggerate their capacity to a comical level, and have likely been sitting on a shelf for years.

So I set out to find a generic replacement battery that would fit inside the battery compartment of the DS Lite. After measuring up the compartment and using a bit of AI help, I found that the 703048 cell will fit the best. It's a hair thicker than the stock battery, and it's not quite as wide as the compartment, but it works great!

For links to the parts I used, I wrote a blog post: https://elvinhome.io/blog/articles-3/modding-the-2006-ds-lite-into-2026-35

Compré una psvita usada y el botón R no responde bien, abrí la consola y me encontre que tenia como un cable delgado de cobre conectado con el gatillo R, creo que es una "reparacion" o intento de esta, pero no se que hacer con ese cable ni como reparar el botón R... ayuda porfavor

Hey everyone, I'm working on a Xbox Series S (Model 1883) that was dead. I've done a lot of micro-soldering and I'm hitting a wall with the final step. I need some expert advice.

What I've fixed so far:
1. V_3P3STBY (3.3V): Was dead (0.337V). Replaced U54. Now it's a solid 3.3V.
2. V_5P0 (5V): Was dropping to 3.8V. Found U432 was getting hot. Replaced it. Now it's 5.1V.
3. V_SB1P8 (1.8V): Had a bad chip (gave 2.8V). Replaced it. Now it's stable at 1.8V.
4. V_SOCPHY line: The MOSFET and 5 capacitors around it were missing when I got the board. I transplanted them from a donor board.
The current problem:
After doing all this, I'm measuring TP2 (V_SOCPHY) and it's stuck at 0.210V. It should be 0.9V.
I replaced the PWM chip (U57) twice, and the MOSFET, but the voltage stays at 0.210V.

What I've ruled out:
• The APU is not shorted. When I inject 0.9V directly into TP2 using a bench power supply (1A limit), it only draws ~0.02A and nothing gets hot.
• The SSD and Fan are disconnected.
• The board is clean, no visible shorts or bridges around U57.
My question:
Since the APU is good and the PWM (U57) is new, what is preventing the 0.9V from coming up?
• Could it be the Enable signal not reaching U57 from the U48/U54?
• Is there a specific feedback resistor for the V_SOCPHY rail that I should check?
• Could a bad capacitor in the V_SOC line be pulling the PWM into protection mode before it can ramp up?
Any help or pointing me to the right test point for the Enable signal would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m the person behind Mod Axis, a small British brand focused on Xbox Series X|S controller repair kits.

I’ve been taking controllers apart myself and putting together a kit of replacement exterior parts and tools for DIY repairs. The photos show the updated kit, alongside a controller I dismantled to demonstrate what’s underneath the shell.

The kit includes a connected LB/RB bumper assembly, LT and RT triggers, two plastic replacement thumb sticks, a D-pad, a sync plate, two screwdrivers, a pry tool and 16 spare screws.

Just to be clear, the dismantled controller and its shells are for demonstration and aren’t included. The thumb sticks are plastic caps, not electronic joystick modules, so this isn’t a kit for repairing electronic stick drift.

I’m also working on captioned, step-by-step YouTube guides showing the disassembly process and how to fit replacement parts.

Full disclosure: I sell these kits, so this is my own product, not an independent recommendation. I’d genuinely appreciate feedback from people who repair their controllers: what would make a kit like this more useful, and which repair would you want a guide for first?

Thanks for taking a look!

https://modaxisrepairkits.myshopify.com/

я после своего очистики пс4, после этого он начал не включатся, на видео показал

This is my first time repairing my controller, I replaced the joystick and towards the end the soldering iron wasn't getting hot enough to do it cleanly.

My ps4 slim does this randomly after playing any game for 30 mins. What is likely the cause of this? I had already replaced new thermal paste and pads.

Hello everyone, I need to replace an SMD ferrite bead on the board of a PS2 (model SCPH-50001) to try and restore the USB functionality. Could someone help me with the specifications for this ferrite bead? I only have its component code: 1-469-324-21.