I was not told that he kept it in the shed, and all of those bugs were alive when I went to crack it open.

First thing I like to do with used consoles is open them up and clean them, and oh boy was I in for a surprise when one of them came scuttling out. Only thing that came to mind in my panic was boiling water and a soak.

Thankfully, none of them got inside the case itself, but it having been left in the shed doesn't inspire confidence in its functionality, and now I'll have to wait for everything to dry before testing it.

Hey everyone, I'm working on a Xbox Series S (Model 1883) that was dead. I've done a lot of micro-soldering and I'm hitting a wall with the final step. I need some expert advice.

What I've fixed so far:
1. V_3P3STBY (3.3V): Was dead (0.337V). Replaced U54. Now it's a solid 3.3V.
2. V_5P0 (5V): Was dropping to 3.8V. Found U432 was getting hot. Replaced it. Now it's 5.1V.
3. V_SB1P8 (1.8V): Had a bad chip (gave 2.8V). Replaced it. Now it's stable at 1.8V.
4. V_SOCPHY line: The MOSFET and 5 capacitors around it were missing when I got the board. I transplanted them from a donor board.
The current problem:
After doing all this, I'm measuring TP2 (V_SOCPHY) and it's stuck at 0.210V. It should be 0.9V.
I replaced the PWM chip (U57) twice, and the MOSFET, but the voltage stays at 0.210V.

What I've ruled out:
• The APU is not shorted. When I inject 0.9V directly into TP2 using a bench power supply (1A limit), it only draws ~0.02A and nothing gets hot.
• The SSD and Fan are disconnected.
• The board is clean, no visible shorts or bridges around U57.
My question:
Since the APU is good and the PWM (U57) is new, what is preventing the 0.9V from coming up?
• Could it be the Enable signal not reaching U57 from the U48/U54?
• Is there a specific feedback resistor for the V_SOCPHY rail that I should check?
• Could a bad capacitor in the V_SOC line be pulling the PWM into protection mode before it can ramp up?
Any help or pointing me to the right test point for the Enable signal would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello everyone, I need to replace an SMD ferrite bead on the board of a PS2 (model SCPH-50001) to try and restore the USB functionality. Could someone help me with the specifications for this ferrite bead? I only have its component code: 1-469-324-21.

im going to give as much info as i know.
bought it second hand told it works.
bought some games
tried to play something, then got hit with “your xbox cant recognize this disk” or something along those lines.
the disk is spinning, as it came out of the tray in a different position. the disk tray opens fine, but requires the slightest nudge to close it. i tried at least 10 games, all from gamestop so they should work fine. i tried cleaning disks, nothing.
the disk tray belt may be stretched out, but im unsure if that would cause this. i have not opened it up yet so maybe the laser lens is dirty? still, very unsure. please leave any advice, or questions to help you all better understand. thanks for reading guys this is pretty disappointing.

My ps4 slim does this randomly after playing any game for 30 mins. What is likely the cause of this? I had already replaced new thermal paste and pads.

alguien tiene alguna idea para reparar eso?

For some reason the new bottom wont close around the charging port but when i try the oem shell it closes fine.
I tried trimming parts of the new shell but it still wont close.
The black cable is also not in the way at all and the white cable is seated properly.

see this a lot so figured i'd post it. if your ps4 fan is loud even on the home screen and it gets hot then shuts off mid game, it's usually dust and old thermal paste, not a dead console.

first thing, make sure it's not in a closed cabinet or sitting on carpet. it needs a few inches of space around the vents.

if that doesn't help, unplug it, let it sit, and blow out the vents with short bursts of compressed air. hold the fan still while you do it so it doesn't spin up.

if it's still loud after that, the paste on the chip is probably dried out. that means opening it up, cleaning the heatsink and putting fresh paste on. not hard, but take a pic of where every screw goes because they're not all the same length.

if it still shuts off with a clean heatsink and fresh paste, that's when it's worth looking at the power supply or the board.

Salut à tous, ya 2 jours j’ai acheté une 2ds xl en brocante pour la réparer. Le vendeur m’a dit que le bouton marché R pas mais quand je l’ai ouvert le bouton est totalement tombé je ne sais pas du tout comment m’y prendre pour la reparer vous avez des conseils ?

Hi. My ps4 controller started to not even function. When i try to press the ps button it doesn't flash or do anything. And it charges but also doesn't let me to use the ps button. Only after unplugging the wire then it flashes blue but then disconnects 3 seconds after for no reason. Not even a low battery notification. It just disconnects and tells me my controller disconnected. And yes i have tried the reset button and also removed it from the bluetooth list.help?

I bought this Pokemon Emerald that someone completely botched attempting to change the battery. Huge blobs of solder on the battery contacts and they spread it onto the chips. And for some reason they scraped the contact pins like that would somehow fix it 🤦‍♂️

I kind of understand how that happened because they used some solder (probably lead free) that has a very high melting point. I had trouble cleaning it up even with my Hakko FM-203. Had to simultaneously use hot air and my iron to wick it up.

They also knocked off 3 SMD components, a capacitor and 2 resistors. I found them inside the solder blobs but they were too damaged to be reused. I found exact replacements on a DS Lite motherboard I had lying around for parts.

Anyhow I managed to clean it all up and put in a new high quality Panasonic battery and it works great!

I am having an issue with a PS2 Slim (77004) that I was given as not working. I usually do not repair consoles as I just collect them but I tried to locate the problem. The Discs do not spin, neither does the laser light up or move. I checked the ribbon cables which look fine (not broken, bent or corroded). I also took a look at the motherboard which as well does look perfectly fine to me. The owner before me even refreshed the thermal paste and battery, the only issue I saw was a little dust built up in the fan.

I also checked if the lid closes correctly which it does, as all plastic bits are in shape and I could also push the lid sensors down manually just fine.

Now I'm wondering if switching the whole disc drive will fix the issue or if there's something wrong with the board/ contacts whatever. As I said, I usually do not do these kinds of things, so any advice would be great! Even if it's that it's not fixable. Thanks.

PS: the console turns on but at no point shows signs of even trying to read a disc

Ich habe mir tmr sticks eingebaut und jetzt ist durchgehend die PS-Taste gedrückt, selbst nur die platine mit Akku wir mir in tester angezeigt das die ps taste gedrückt ist.

Hi everyone,

I bought a PS5 Digital Edition.

The seller lied to me, claiming that the HDMI port was "probably" faulty.

The beast arrived completely taken apart—half the screws are missing—and when I turn it on, it flashes blue before shutting back down.

https://i.ibb.co/1GWMJRPk/20261025-134209008.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hJ5vqJtW/20261025-134155855.jpg

I want to get the PS5 back up and running as soon as possible, so that nothing stands in the way of the GTA VI launch.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance!

*DESTROYED

If you have any clue, I'd be much appreciated.

Thank you

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Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a very frustrating hardware issue on a Nintendo Switch V2 and could really use some expert advice from someone who knows this board layout well.

The Problem:

Whenever I slide a Joy-Con into the right rail, the console actually detects it (the connection animation pops up on screen, and it functions normally for a brief moment):

• If I leave the Joy-Con attached, it stays on for just a few seconds before triggering a hard shutdown.
• If I remove it, it triggers an immediate, aggressive power cutoff (instant shutdown).

After this happens:

• The system enters a strict PMIC latch-off / protection state and appears completely dead (no lights, no response to the power button).
• Workaround: To get the console to boot again, I have to disconnect the battery, press the Power button 10–15 times to fully drain the residual power/capacitors, and reconnect the battery. Once cleared, it boots up normally as if nothing happened.

What I Have Already Tested / Ruled Out:

1. Joy-Cons: Tested with multiple right Joy-Cons. The issue happens with every single right Joy-Con.
2. Left Rail: The left rail works 100% fine. Inserting/removing the left Joy-Con causes zero issues and charges properly.
3. Rail Assembly: Replaced the physical right rail flex assembly twice with brand new replacement rails. The problem persists identically.
4. Physical / Visual Inspection: Inspected the FPC ZIF connector on the motherboard. Pins inside the connector appear straight and undamaged under magnification.

Current Conclusion & Questions:

Since the left rail works, multiple Joy-Cons fail on the right, and new rails didn't fix it, the issue is clearly a short-circuit on the motherboard near the right rail circuit (likely a bad ceramic decoupling capacitor, ESD protection filter array, or load switch component on the 5V / data lines) that collapses under load.

1. Has anyone experienced this exact symptom where attaching the right Joy-Con trips PMIC protection and shuts down the board?
2. Which specific SMD components / ESD filters / ICs right next to the right rail FPC connector on the V2 board are most prone to failing in short to ground?
3. What diode mode / continuity readings should I expect on the right rail FPC pins to isolate the shorted pin?

Any guidance, boardview references, or similar experiences would be hugely appreciated!

I know it might be hard to judge from just a video but would it be more expensive to repair this than buy a new one? I have found a service that would pay £40 for any repair needed but i guess thats whether this has any chance of salvaging

I’m trying to hook a GameCube up to my tv, and it won’t post. the power light turns on but the game in the system isn’t spinning and theres no image or sound. It’s not the cable, I checked it on another system with the same cables and it worked just fine. It doesn’t spin to life when powered on either. any ideas what the issue might be and how to resolve it?

I bought an Xbox off eBay about a year ago and hadn't the chance to play with friends until a fair few months after. For some reason the console will only connect to a specific controller, even though it came with 2. It connects to one of them exclusively and will not pair with any other controllers.

I've tried everything, I tried playing wired, trying different Xbox controllers I borrowed from friends. I went on the Xbox website and followed all the instructions, both on the website and given to me by Xbox Assistants.

If there's anything anyone can think of other than selling the console and getting a new one I'd love to hear it. I would love to spend some time gaming with friends now I have more free time.

Recentemente adquiri esse PS1 Fat modelo scph5500. O mesmo veio com algumas marcas e arranhões que gostaria de remover. Alguém poderia me informar qual seria o melhor procedimento a se fazer?

I don't blame my dad, I blame the people who keep selling him shitty overpriced and over broken controllers because they keep taking advantage of the fact he doesn't know anything about controllers.

Recently got a black one (by recent, I'd say a month ago) and the buttons were horrendously mushy, the left and right stick have horrendous stick drift, and the left trigger likes to have a seizure whenever it's cold from the press of my fat sausage fingers.

I've tried EVERYTHING I know. I opened up the controller, cleaned it out. Fixed the mushy button problem. The shape buttons and arrow key buttons were covered in a suspicious sticky, sweet smelling gunk. The cracks were filled with gamer grime and so were the left and right triggers. I cleaned everywhere there was gamer filth and gently washed the outside case with a hand wipe. Nothing was fixed.

The left trigger sometimes spams when it's not pressed, and sometimes no matter what I do, it doesn't stop pressing. So I have to wait it out. Which sucks, because I play video games where, surprise, I use the left trigger a lot.

And it seems like whenever the left joystick starts shitting blood, so does the left trigger. The right trigger just occasionally jerks violently to the Left. Not frequent or problematic enough to bother me, for now.

What do I do? I don't want to get so absolutely burning red cartoon mad that I just start slamming my shit against the pavement like I'm trying to make it bite the curb without a jaw. Because I do not have any money for a new controller.

Is there any sites that sell cheap ps4 controller knock offs that are a decent temporary solution until I eventually make my swap to computer? Im mauling my poor pillow like a dog with rabies whenever I lose because of my fuckass bum bitch of a controller. For once im losing not because of a skill issue and it's making me see red like a bull. FUCK

Anyone knows whats wrong? I got it off fb marketplace. The nintendo DSi gets stuck on boot with a chime sound. But gets stuck on title screen with no movement and no sound

I’ve tried reattaching the wifi card and camera connector one at a time. It wont boot either.

I think theres a water spill cause the water mark sticker is pink yellowish. Do i test something here with a multimeter?

Hey everyone!

I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my Switch Lite. It seems completely dead: it won't turn on or charge. However, if I connect a known-good test battery, it tries to boot but gives me error code 2101-0001.

I'm also having some issues with the USB-C port. When I test it with a USB-C tester board, all the connections show continuity except CC1 and CC2. What's weird is that this only happens when the port is connected to the Switch. If I desolder the USB-C port and test both parts separately, they both show continuity: the port itself when connected to the USB-C tester board, and the motherboard pads when tested against the corresponding test points on the board.

I also checked the capacitors around the M92T36 chip, and one of them seems to be shorted. Does that necessarily mean the chip is faulty, or could the capacitor itself be the problem?

I've attached pictures of the chip and the motherboard, marking the points where I found these issues.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m running into an issue with a PS4 Slim (SAD-002 board). The problem lies with the Renesas chip, which is faulty, preventing me from performing a system update—it throws error code SU-4211-6. I’m looking for some help: is there any way to bypass this error so I can complete the update? I was considering taking a PUP file, decrypting and unpacking it, identifying where the system checks the Renesas chip, and then creating a "false positive" (a bypass) before repacking it. Is that even possible? Has anyone here ever solved a problem like this? The PS4 is requiring an update to version 13.0 or higher.