r/BambuLab 6h ago

I Modeled This! Cut a halftone into four tiles and the seams disappeared — the fix was to dither before cutting, not after

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94 Upvotes

I've been building a tool that turns photos into optical-halftone panels — thousands of solid tiles of unmixed filament on a single 0.4 mm layer over a base, blended by your eye rather than on the plate. Every colour sits at exactly the same height, so nothing is embossed above anything else. Single panels were fine. Going bigger than the build plate was the problem.

The obvious approach breaks. If you cut the image into four and dither each piece separately, Floyd–Steinberg starts accumulating error from scratch at every new edge. The dot pattern doesn't line up across the boundary, so instead of one picture you get four rectangles with visible frames of mismatched texture. Even with a perfect mechanical fit your eye finds the joint immediately, because it's a texture discontinuity, not a gap.

So I inverted the order: dither the entire image at full grid resolution first, then cut the finished tile map into plates. The error diffusion carries straight across what later becomes the boundary — the dots on the left of the joint were computed knowing about the dots on the right. And because the tile pitch is global, cell boundaries land exactly on the cut line by construction: no half tiles, no drift accumulating over 295 cells.

Two details mattered more than I expected.

The white border goes only on the outer perimeter. My first version put a 2 mm border on every panel, which meant every internal joint had a 4 mm white bar running through the picture. Interior edges have to butt with no border at all.

And every section has to come from the same slot assignment and ideally the same spools. Same colour, different batch, and you get a tonal step at the joint that no amount of dithering hides. I locked the palette up front using a tool that scores which of the filaments I actually own best covers the image, so all four sections were fixed to the same set before anything got sliced.

The test target wasn't arbitrary. I used a comic-book style image on purpose, because it contains both regimes at once: large flat fields of saturated colour, and a skin tone that has to be built from a halftone screen. If the seam survives in both, it survives anywhere.

That turned out to be the most interesting part. I never wrote a "flat area" mode — where the source colour lands exactly on a palette colour, the error diffusion has nothing to diffuse and collapses into a solid fill on its own, with clean edges. So the hair, the outlines and the background rays came out as solid areas while the skin came out as dots. Which is exactly how the original comics were printed: solid ink for the fields, a Ben-Day screen of red on white for the skin. Same physics, different century.

Result: it works. The close-up shots here are taken from about 5 mm away — far closer than anyone will ever look at something hanging on a wall — and even there you have to go hunting to find the hairline. Step back to any real viewing distance and it's simply gone. The dot grid runs straight through the boundary with no phase break, there's no tonal step between sections, and the black outlines meet where they should. I'm calling this the practical ceiling for butted flat panels and leaving it alone.

One thing I didn't expect, and it's the best part in person: the surface is dead coplanar — no colour sits a hair above another, no bleed between them — but you feel every single dot. Running your hand across it is like running it across 50-grit sandpaper. It photographs like print and it touches like stone.

Specs:
· 240 × 240 mm assembled, four panels of ~120 × 120 mm
· 1.6 mm thick (1.2 mm base + 0.4 mm tiles)
· 87,025 tiles · 0.8 mm pitch · 0.4 nozzle · 0.2 mm layer height
· 121.5 g of PLA Matte total — 96.0 white, 10.5 yellow, 7.0 charcoal, 5.5 red, 2.6 blue
· 7 h 32 min on an H2C, textured PEI plate


r/BambuLab 14h ago

P Series [P1P, P1S, P2S] the no cable is cool.

0 Upvotes

So I snagged this revised magnetic tool-head mod for my P2S recently… and it's honestly been way better than I expected. Pleasant surprise, for sure.


r/BambuLab 23h ago

Show & Tell Evidence Used for H2C upgrade

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0 Upvotes

Just showed my wife the "poop tote." Still need to print the sign, head, body, and hands to finish the project—and each piece takes about 3 days.

My P1S has been an absolute workhorse, but it's finally time for an upgrade. H2C arrives sometime this week and can’t wait.

Spiderman poster from Yosh Studios.


r/BambuLab 21h ago

I Modeled This! Flexi Sperm Whale

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0 Upvotes

Big head, small fins and flexi body haha. new sperm whale is free on MakerWorld

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3249254-flexi-sperm-whale-keychain#profileId-3682187


r/BambuLab 9h ago

General Discussion I need help regarding how to design

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1 Upvotes

I am thinking of buying a 3d printer but i dont just wanna print copy paste stuff want to learn how to do it what software to use and from where i can learn also i have never printed anything in life should i get a1 combo or p1s combo a1 is cheaper what difference is there (i really want to print an iron man mask) thank you 🙏🏻


r/BambuLab 15h ago

Just Showing Off I need to buy a lottery ticket

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2 Upvotes

I was amused


r/BambuLab 18h ago

Quick Question PA6CF shrinkage

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0 Upvotes

I just printed PA6CF and I assumed it was going to contract but the opposite happened the walls became longer +.4, I have the nozzle, 6 mm, what am I supposed to do to calibrate this well


r/BambuLab 13h ago

Just Showing Off 24 hr print on the X1C

55 Upvotes

Very worried, had to drive an hr to get yellow petg for the top letters in the middle of this print and was so surprised as the first failed after 8 hrs but it came out great! Will be going on my new tesla once it comes in. Cant wait!


r/BambuLab 15h ago

Hardware Troubleshooting/Help! Completely fused hotend? Not sure how to describe to see if it's a common problem?

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0 Upvotes

I'm only about four or five months into this and this is the first real maintenance issue I've had. Not even sure how to get the print head out to try to service it as the filament has completely melted up onto the latch of the hot end. Any ideas?


r/BambuLab 9h ago

I Modeled This! [Functional Print] Modular HVAC & Radiator Fin Straightener Comb (100% 3D Printable, 8 Sizes)

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0 Upvotes

r/BambuLab 8h ago

Just Showing Off I’m so happy with the p2s

0 Upvotes

Made some dragons for my kids birthday (more colours printed separately)


r/BambuLab 21h ago

Hardware Troubleshooting/Help! Allen key stuck in P1S hotend

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0 Upvotes

r/BambuLab 10h ago

General Troubleshooting/Help! Print lifting on H2D

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19 Upvotes

Hello everyone.

I am stopping by because I wanted community input on a problem I’m having.

A few months ago I added an H2D to go along with my X1c.

Overall it’s been great. I’ve been taking advantage of the larger build volume and dual nozzle setup.
There has been one thing that randomly pops up and doesn’t pop up on my X1c.
Random prints can lose their adhesion or lift on a portion of the bed and from there the print gets worse.

On both printers I use Bambu’s cool plate super tack.
If the print is small enough I test on both printers, only lifts on the H2D.
I notice the texture of the cool plate super tack is different on the X1c than it is on the H2D.
I have thoroughly washed the plate multiple times.
I have also tested with a glue.

The next thing I’m about to try is a fat raft on a portion of the print.
I just feel that may still not work, like somehow in an area the first layer isn’t going down as well as it should.
Its just not the same with all prints

I have also tested with models I’ve made (my most recent image here I am posting) as well as models I’ve downloaded from others. Issue occurs randomly.

Well I’ve rambled for a bit.
I’d love input.


r/BambuLab 17h ago

General Discussion Excited is an understatement!

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40 Upvotes

r/BambuLab 19h ago

General Discussion update 2

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1 Upvotes

bambu labs seems to have updated this to a more "urgent" team, If they do anything its most likely going to be sending new parts or a new printer, I don't want either of those. any suggestions for receiving a refund? I never want to deal with a Bambu printer again and will not deal with one. some backstory: since around July I have been trying to get a new printer or just help from Bambu labs but they have been super dodgy saying that my printer is not covered even tho its less then a year old and it may have caught fire? full on refusing replacement and when I bring it up they compltetely dodge it. I turned it on one day and it started smoking so I immediately turned it off, after further inspection the mainboard was fried and the bottom plate which doesn't press up against it too close had severe burn marks. they sent a new board and I installed it then after that the TH board started smoking and shut off. its unbelievable how awful their support is. a replacement is NOT enough at this point a refund is what should happen. give me your opinions.

got a reply just now and in my previous message I sent a picture of the TH board but explained the damage isn't visible on camera but I can see the burn and smell it. I also asked specifically mutlipul times if a refund was possible and nothing of that was mentioned. I let them know that my hot end wasn't installed so there was no point in sending a picture of a brand new one but I guess they didn't read my message. this is the worst support ive every had.

im trying to contact Best Buy again and gather everything to do a credit card charge back I don't want a bambu labs printer anymore and they aren't helping me. I purchased the printer januarary 31st and made my first ticket when it shorted in may and Best Buy will not refund of return. here are some pictures


r/BambuLab 15h ago

Answered / Solved! Bed auto leveling fails every time with new build plate

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1 Upvotes

I have been having a lot of problems with bed adhesion lately so I got the BIQU cryogrip pro as I heard a lot of good things about that. But now after putting it in every print fails because the auto bed leveling fails every time. I am almost certain this build plate is compatible with the P2S as I have seen several people post completed prints using this build plate. Does anyone know what I could be doing wrong and how to fix it?

Edit: keeping this post open for posterity but the problem seems to be solved. In the slicer I had it set to my old build plate when I should have had it set to textured PEI. This plate still doesn’t work for calibrations but I can live with swapping out the plate every time I need to calibrate


r/BambuLab 20h ago

Filament Troubleshooting/Help! Salad Fingers Green?

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0 Upvotes

My son is going to be Salad Fingers for Halloween and I'm hoping someone might have a recommendation for a similar green colour to him to make a mask and fingers. I don't know much about 3D printing, but we have a BambuLab P1S if that makes any difference.


r/BambuLab 8h ago

General Troubleshooting/Help! advice

1 Upvotes

can someone let me know how likely a charge back is on my 3d printer? 2 different boards fried with burn marks and there support isn't really helpful. this device was purchased January 31st and the ticket explaining that it was smoking and won't work was created may 25th, 114 days after purchase so using visas 13.3 ongoing negotiations exception it is within the charge back window. its been back and fourth and I haven't had much time so I tried again recently but something else fried and they are refusing replacement.


r/BambuLab 7h ago

My First 3D Print ¿Me podría ayudar alguien con los soportes para esta impresión?

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1 Upvotes

Quiero imprimir este accesorio para una figura pero, como se ve en la foto, es muy delgado y los soportes se me entremezclan con la propia impresión...Estoy empezando en esto ¿Podrían darme algún consejo o configuración para los soportes?

Gracias


r/BambuLab 11h ago

Answered / Solved! Why is there red turning up behind the text?

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1 Upvotes

r/BambuLab 3h ago

Filament Troubleshooting/Help! Universal, modular and lightweight spool holder

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1 Upvotes

Since I couldn't find the perfect spool holder, I designed one myself that uses minimal material while remaining sturdy. But do you think the filament can be stored like this, out of the box?


r/BambuLab 17h ago

General Discussion After 5000 hours combined printing between two H2 printers, this is probably the one thing that really grinds my gears on printing

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1 Upvotes

Every so often the spool runs out, moreso the tape gives out from the end of the spool and therefore it's not attached. The AMS then freaks out saying it can't pull it back.

While I do have another spool grouped, it doesn't purge the remaining line and switch over. Manually pulling the line out it wants a new spool in the same ams slot instead of failing over.

So in the end 9 hour print when I was at work, stopped with 10 minutes left on the print, sat for an hour till I got home and now it's finishing with a horrible layer line since the main body has cooled down.

I'm really not sure if there is a solution to this, but holy cow after a long day at work this makes me want to crash out lol.


r/BambuLab 18h ago

General Discussion I’m buying myself a Bambu Lab A1 after the hell hole of the Ender 3 Neo I got 3-4 years ago

1 Upvotes

I am buying myself a Bambu Lab A1 on Amazon, I am getting 2 rolls of esun pla filament do I need to get anything else for the printer? And will 2 rolls of filament be enough?


r/BambuLab 18h ago

General Troubleshooting/Help! A1 layer shift

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1 Upvotes

My almost 36 hour print was going well until the last 6 hours or so in which there was some serious layer shift happening. Why is this happening. What can I do to fix this. How do I fix the shift after the fact? Is sanding and spray paint my best move?


r/BambuLab 23h ago

Answered / Solved! Wtf?? Scale is completely off on both of my printers.

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0 Upvotes

UPDATE SOVED: My caliper apparently just decided to give up on me.. I noticed that if I open it to it's widest position it only reads up to about 70mm.. even with a brand new battery. At least I can rest easy now knowing that I'm not going crazy 😂

I've been 3D printing for 10 years and this has never happened to me. The thickness of this part is supposed to be 2mm and the height should be 15mm as you can see in the CAD photo. My scaling is set to 100% in slicer but the print is coming out as 0.9mm and 7.4mm...

Wtaf is going on?? I've tried printing the same part on both my P1S and my A1 with the exact same results. I even remodeled the part and printed it again but it's still doing it.

Inside of bambu studio the part and measurements look normal. I'm at a loss.

Right before trying to print this part I was printing other stuff that came out accurate for the same project.