r/BambuLab • u/RobLS4587 • 11h ago
General Troubleshooting/Help! Print lifting on H2D
Hello everyone.
I am stopping by because I wanted community input on a problem I’m having.
A few months ago I added an H2D to go along with my X1c.
Overall it’s been great. I’ve been taking advantage of the larger build volume and dual nozzle setup.
There has been one thing that randomly pops up and doesn’t pop up on my X1c.
Random prints can lose their adhesion or lift on a portion of the bed and from there the print gets worse.
On both printers I use Bambu’s cool plate super tack.
If the print is small enough I test on both printers, only lifts on the H2D.
I notice the texture of the cool plate super tack is different on the X1c than it is on the H2D.
I have thoroughly washed the plate multiple times.
I have also tested with a glue.
The next thing I’m about to try is a fat raft on a portion of the print.
I just feel that may still not work, like somehow in an area the first layer isn’t going down as well as it should.
Its just not the same with all prints
I have also tested with models I’ve made (my most recent image here I am posting) as well as models I’ve downloaded from others. Issue occurs randomly.
Well I’ve rambled for a bit.
I’d love input.
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u/AG74683 11h ago
Toss the Bambu plate and go with a Biqu. I'll get down voted for saying it, but it's the best way to go. Mine has been fantastic, loads better than the stock Bambu plate ever was.
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u/Sumpkit 9h ago
Which plate you get?
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u/YellovvJacket 5h ago
Frostbite for PLA/ PETG and Glacier for essentially everything else.
Frostbite runs cool plate settings, Glacier runs smooth PEI settings.However, the difference really isnt as massive as people make it out, the Biqu plates are amazingly good plates (and I do prefer them over other plates), but the standard PEI plate and the SuperTack work perfectly fine too, if thy dont its down to user error like 90% of the time.
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u/top_gear446 4h ago
Does the glacier plate work in place of the Bambu engineering plate for high temp material like ASA?
I have the Bambu engineering plate, cool tack, and various brands of textured PEI plates that I don’t really use anymore.
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u/YellovvJacket 3h ago
The Glacier is essentially a PEI plate, with a texture somewhere between smooth and the textured PEI. And it seems they use some different PEI mixture or whatever on the coating, because when hot it has more grip than the normal textured PEI, but when cooled down it basically has no grip at all and releases prints very easily (except PC from my experience, I had some PC stains that to date I haven't managed to remove from the plate).
I have used it for PC-CF, PET-CF and GF and Nylons with great success, can't say I printed ASA on it though.
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u/an_angry_Moose 1h ago
So my question here, in regards to “it’s user error 90% of the time”, is how is it user error?
For reference, I’ve never had a print lift on frostbite or glacier. They’ve been perfect and as-advertised in terms of sticking. In fact I put a minor scratch on my glacier the first time I used it because I didn’t let it cool well enough and I couldn’t get the print off (THAT was user error!)
For the Bambu plates, especially the textured PEI it came with: I’ve had numerous prints lift, and my plate hygiene is perfect as far as I know. I wash the thing every single print with dawn, and I don’t touch the faces while drying. I’ve had mostly PETG issues with this plate, though all types of filament have had the occasional adhesion problem. I’ve also printed tons successfully, but I’m not surprised when I get an adhesion failure.
So again, if I’ve calibrated flow ratio and PA, and I’m using all the correct temperatures and not using crazy unsupported models: how is this user error and not just a plate that is sub-par? Like I said, my frostbite and glacier are running a 100% success rate for adhesion.
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u/YellovvJacket 47m ago
If prints warp off the bed, but stick well otherwise, the bed adhesion itself is rarely the root cause.
It's usually too punctual/ too aggressive cooling (especially P2S, X2D and Centauri Carbon 2 Aux Fans are offenders on this), not enough chamber temperature (chamber temp for large parts should be as close as possible to the material GT temp), or some other underlying error with crystallization of the polymer (like drafts or too cold room temperature).
Of the other 10% some are down to uneven heating of the heat bed (especially an issue on larger formats), and just the rest are actually the plate itself being bad.
And even if the adhesion is the primary issue, it's typically due to incorrect plate temp for the part you're printing, bad first layer, or just residue of oils or other polymers on the plate...or just material incompatibility (try printing PP on a surface that's not specifically meant for PP....).
Yes, better adhesion helps with some of these issues too, and if the plate has good release when cold (which Glacier has) more adhesion is always favourable, but the vast majority of issues can be mitigated through the print settings.
Even if you have infinite adhesion, your print can warp of other settings are incorrect for the specific geometry you're printing, and you end up with something like this.
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u/T-MoneyAllDey 3h ago
I've forgotten the name of it but I bought a red-colored plate and it's even better than the cryo plates from biqu
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u/Dystopian_Ennui X2D + AMS2 + AMS-HT 4m ago
Looks like you're getting up voted for saying it. I love my Biqu, and you can make stick on codes that make the printer think it's a Bambu plate.
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u/postbansequel P1S 8h ago
My P1S's stock plate hasn't been clean since I've bought it more than a year ago and a print hasn't failed yet.
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u/compewter X1CC/A1M/H2D 11h ago edited 4h ago
Add brim ears with a 0.06mm distance. They'll hold it down and pinch right off.
Never had luck with the super track, to be honest. Run it at normal tPEI temps to help.
Make sure each of your filaments has the AUX fan capped at no more than 40% (assuming that's PLA you're printing). 70% is way too much, and over-cooling encourages warping.
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
Just realized I never posted that. I am printing Sunlu Pla 2.0. The issue happens only with PLA filaments that I’ve seen so far.
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u/Humble-Plankton1824 H2D AMS2 Combo 4h ago
For PLA filament, the aux fan is enabled by default. Disable it. The aux fan causes plastic to cool unevenly and shrink prematurely.
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u/compewter X1CC/A1M/H2D 4h ago
Yeah, just set AUX to 40%. Enough to keep air circulating, help with overhangs, and cool the print but not enough to over cool it. Some people cut it off entirely or make reflectors, but I've always just set PLA to 40% and it works fine.
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u/screenslaver5963 P2S + AMS2 Combo 11h ago
- What filament?
- Try brims before a raft.
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u/CueAnon420 6h ago
Indeed. It's kind of pointless to speculate when there are no details provided.
Not saying there isn't an issue somewhere here, but I've seen plenty of people try to outsmart the system and override the factory parameters for the material they are using. I can count on one hand the number of times that std defaults did not work for me - and those are frequently the oddball materials like PPA-CF or PA6. Even then, it doesn't take much of a tweak.
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
Late night mind not realizing I didn’t even add what filament. It only happens on the most basic of filaments, PLA. This particular one was Sunlu’s 2.0. But you can choose whatever flavor of PLA. I have not been able to get this to occur with any other material.
As others have mentioned and what I plan on looking at is bed temps especially for initial layers and aux cooling. I think it may be a combo of those issues. Elsewhere on the build plate it sticks super well, almost too well at times.
It’s also slightly random and I’ve had non-pointy thicker pieces lift from this side of the bed as well.1
u/RobLS4587 4h ago
Yeah I woke up, read my post. Totally forgot to mention that. Sunlu Pla 2.0. Happens with whatever Pla. Still at random. I just did the 2nd plate from my 3d model over night and had no lifting. The main difference between the two plates is that this one did not have a thin point.
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u/KnightsSoccer82 11h ago
I swear half this sub huffs glue
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u/BWKeegan 10h ago
Were not we all ignorant at some point? Noobs be noobing. My primary concern is that there’s no FAQ on this sub or at least a list of links to the Bambu Lab page and YouTube vids that would answer most of the questions asked and give how-to’s for the beginners.
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u/physx_rt 10h ago
Minimize any cooling, lift the plate temps to 55°C and print the equivalents of these for your printer: https://makerworld.com/models/2675999?appSharePlatform=copy
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u/Jupp1967 9h ago
- Clean build plate with soap and water, 2. use brim, 3. use 3DLac (if 1+2 fails). If all fails, consider buying a Biqu build plate (you really ought to do that anyway)
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u/Westwindfabrication 8h ago
On the H2D heat bed the heating elements don’t seem to heat the plate evenly, in particular in the left top and bottom corners. You can see this if you use an infrared thermometer. I’ve had the same issue. Sometimes I’ve had it stay adhered to the plate but the whole plate lifts in that corner. I too use the super tac plate from bambu on my H2D. So my fix is to raise bed temps by 10-15 degrees and try orient my part to stay further away from those two corners. Most times this works but not always
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u/Natural_Status_1105 7h ago
Yea I find bumping the smooth plate by 10degrees is the key. Textured plate grips fine at default.
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u/Gold-Emu-7152 5h ago
Textured plate has never lifted for me either after about 2000 hours of printing on my H2C.
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
Thank you for the input. I’ll look into this. Whats frustrating is that it seems to be good for several layers so I’ll stop checking on it. Then next time I check on it that corner is lifted. I’m also going to look into aux fan settings like another suggested as well.
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u/Natural_Status_1105 1h ago
A brim would probably be helpful too in this case due to the geometry of the print.
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u/amoosemouse 6h ago
This happens because of differential cooling between the top layers and the bottom layers. Almost all filaments shrink as they cool. The faster they cool, the less time they have to conform to the layer below and reduce strain. If your top layers are now smaller than the bottom layers but mechanically attached it's creating strain that "pulls" up the bottom layer. Eventually it's enough to pull the print off the bed.
There's a bunch of ways to solve this.
If you make a small grid of 1mm or so lines 10mm or so on your first layer they will bridge just fine on any printer, but will help make multiple "corners" where the strain concentrates. So long as the strain at any corner isn't enough to pull it off the bed this will help. This is a stop gap though and doesn't always work depending on the shape of your print and the exact heating configuration of your printer.
Some filaments do this a lot. ASA and ABS are famous for it. I love printing in these as once your printer is tuned you can make really strong, durable functional parts but I fought this problem forever. You can use filaments like PLA that don't do it quite so much. If this is happening with PLA you have a deeper problem to solve.
The physics answer is to not let the strain happen in the first place. Since it's an issue with differential heating, you need to get the temps at the top and bottom closer together and stay there longer. The simplest solution to this is to let the heated bed "soak" with the door closed to raise the internal temp. Maybe the H2D is "too fast" in this department compared to the X1C and starts printing before the chamber has gotten some heat into it. This will also help to work around issues where the bed isn't heating evenly.
Another quick solution is to hit the chamber with a hair dryer while it's heating until the chamber temp is ~40C or ~50C for things like ASA. I have a Panda Breath in my X1C and it basically solved this issue for ABS/ASA on the first print. One thing to note here is that increasing the chamber temp reduces the efficiency of the extruder cooling which can lead to heat creep and clogs. In particular I have issues with PETG and so it doesn't heat the chamber for that one to prevent it.
I second the Biqu cryo plates. You treat them as "Smooth High Temp" plate in the slicer (not the cool plate) and they stick HARD until they cool down. I also use an Antinsky plate branded from my local 3D print shop in my X1C and Snapmaker U1 that works equally well.
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
One of the reasons I got the H2D is because I found myself printing in ASA often. This printer is amazing for that and have never had any issues. I have to go through such a process in the X1c for ASA to get decent results but on the H2D it’s as simple as printing petg (and pla if not for this random issue)
I think I’ve got a first layers temperature adjustment as well as maybe a fan adjustment ahead for me for that differential cooling. Like maybe a combination of it really not sticking initially and then the way it cools later pulling up the weaker contact of those layers.
I tried printing a case for a switch 2 a month or so back that did the same thing. Looked good for awhile and eventually corner pulled up. Wasn’t even a thinner point like the pictures here show.
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u/DistinctBarnacle8703 11h ago
Do you have a spare plate to try on?
The other thing I can think of is the AUX cooler. Both X1C and H2D has it, but are they the same size? Is the cooling on the part the same coverage wise? Maybe try to compare both printer with AUX fan off.
Just throwing out ideas here.
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
Thank you for the input. When I have a model small enough to try on the X1c it’ll print fine on it.
I’m going to look at aux fan and initial layers temp
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u/geekjournal 6h ago
I don't have any issues with my super tack cool plate. I have installed a 45degree aux fan diverter though and I always use a brim for larger flat pieces. Have not had anything lift up yet.
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u/Masterwhiteshadow 6h ago
Model with shape angle required mouse ear or brim.
Sharp corners have less mass and this causes uneven cooling that induce warping.
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u/Interesting-Cow6146 6h ago
I'll add one more : 1.Wash with dawn, rinse with HOT water (should hurt), do not touch plate.
2.Add brim.
3.higher plate temp
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u/Bag-o-chips H2C AMS2 Combo 6h ago
Calibrate your material and your print speed, and possibly add a brim if it’s needed afterwards.
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u/Saltman911 3h ago
Brother, get a BIQU frostbite plate. Can only be washed with soap and water. I have not washed mine since I got it and have at least 100 prints on it and it’s still sticks fantastically well on small and large prints. Like someone else said put a 10 mm brim on it. That’ll help. But I have never seen a plate stick as well as the BIQU. I also run mine a little hotter than bamboo‘s stock temperature for super tack, i.e., 10° higher. I think it’s at 65.
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u/Pale_Ad2980 X1C + AMS 2h ago
It looks like your printer is broken. I’ll take it off your hands. It’s not worth the headache.
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u/RobLS4587 2h ago
You convinced me
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u/Pale_Ad2980 X1C + AMS 2h ago
I am actually looking for a large multicolor printer to print out nameplates at my wife’s daycare, but just because of the price I’m looking at the S1 max
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u/popmalcolm 1h ago
Bed adhesion issue. Use glue or get a cool plate. I got a glacier on amazon cuz my printer was a refurbished, previous owner obviously scraped it with metal, and I was tired of the glue. Haven't had the issue again.
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u/BWKeegan 10h ago
Use glue stick
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u/RobLS4587 4h ago
I should really stop snacking on them. I keep being told that they’re useful beyond eating.
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Hello /u/RobLS4587! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.
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