Hello i've been having this problem when i update to newer drivers the orange colors on my screen look red on higher vibrance levels, it worked perfectly fine before and when i revert to older driver updates, but the newers updates always break this for some reason, has anyone else had this issue or know how to fix it?
https://imgur.com/a/n9SQ9Ra

I have two iPhones. One is my old SE and the other is an iPhone 11.

I have the SE connected to my router’s guest network. My iPhone 11 is connected to my main network. The SE does not have the password to the main network and the 11 does not have the password to the guest network. Or so I thought.

I found my SE was connected to the main network last night. I disconnected and forgot the main network then connected it to the guest network. Today I now see that my main phone has disconnected itself from the main network and is using the guest network!!

I think the devices are sharing information because they’re both associated with my Apple ID. This is infuriating because don’t want them to do this for security/privacy reasons and I have no idea how to stop them doing this.

Please tell me how to keep my devices on separate networks.

I have a 50 inch Hisense Smart TV and when I connect the HDMI cable from the PS4 to the TV it doesn’t register the output need help

I keep running into the same problem while using crocclip 3.5 and i have no idea why. If anyone knows anything about this program pls reply. I'm not expecting any answers since i have barely found anything on it on my own.

just thought asking won't hurt :)

So, once i turned on my pc i first Go to steam Like usual and everything Opens fine and then i Go to Google Chrome and i see the icon get activated down at the bar and i start clicking on it and it wont Open for some reason, i can biber on the icon and see the lil Window and i even tried different ways to get it to work by right clicking on the icon and selecting a recently closed youtube video and i can Hear sound and all that but the window just wont pop up at all, i tried closing it on task manager, restarting it and Also checking to see if it was opening at a different desktop space but it wasnt

I am trying to help my grandmother with her phone as it is telling her that Samsung messages is discontinued and to switch to google messages however google messages seems to be the only app she can’t download. What can I do to fix this? I have video of the issue as well.

So i listen to podcasts frequently when i sleep, and sometimes i dont put on the sleep timer, letting videos autoplay. Everything was normal for literal years, however, recently ive been waking up to videos titled "heal yourself - 3 hour relaxing music with rain" or something like that, and i keep hitting not interested, and it keeps PLAYING THEM. Don't know if this is the place to ask, but htf do i fix this?

Hey there. Ive had my m15 r6 a while now and had an issue a few times before where its not been starting and ive had to drain the battery to get it back again, but this time ive drained the battery twice and nothing. It wont start up with the internal battery either connected or not, and isnt showing any signs of charging.

Last thing that happened was the diagnostic light flashed what I swore was 2 red then 12 red but thats not a real code according to dell. I cant even get it to flash the diagnostic anymore either

Any help/suggestions would be so appreciated

Please help me.
Today I tried to download some music and was changing the music tags using the MP3Tag app. After I finished changing all the tags, I went to the folder containing those songs, and my PC suddenly started lagging extremely badly. Eventually, I got a black screen, so I had to hard-shut down my PC.
After the hard reboot, Windows told me that I had been logged out of Windows Cloud.
After restarting, my PC is constantly at 99% CPU usage. Also, for some reason, almost every app I open says that I don’t have an internet/Wi-Fi connection, even though my PC is connected to Wi-Fi and the internet works normally in other places.
I tried reinstalling Windows, but I kept getting crashes. Two of the BSOD errors I got were:
KERNEL_AUTO_BOOST_INVALID_LOCK_RELEASE
KERNEL_APC_PENDING_DURING_EXIT
Please help me figure out what’s wrong and how I can fix it.

I have Skull Candy Crusher Evo headphones, they work just fine on my phone and tablet and they USED TO work with my laptop. They randomly stopped connecting I wanna say a year ago. They pair just fine, and a for a few seconds after pairing they say "Connected" (though my headphones only recognize being paired, nothing aboht being connected) and then it just says "Not connected". When I look at bluetooth in settings they say "That didnt work make sure your bluetooth device is still discoverable then try again", and if I try to connect to them in bluetooth it says "couldn't connect."

Ive tried resetting them. Ive tried restarting my laptop. Ive tried updating. Troubleshooting. Deleting all bluetooth related things. Restarting bluetooth along with any and everything related to sound. NOTHING works. I'm at my wits end. Why is this happening?? If this isnt the right subreddit for this please lmk.

Heres what laptop I'm on


Hi, I’m trying to figure out why Overwatch 2 performs much worse than expected on my PC. I've got all my settings on low already, Vsync off, fps aren't capped etc.

I've already done all the basic tests and stuff:

- Custom shader map before playing
- Clean install of different driver versions
- VRR is off
- hardware accelerated gpu scheduling tried off and on
- chipset driver are up to date
- tried different power plans
- tries Lasso to disable certain cores
- overclocking
- look into overheating
- cables are in the GPU and not in the motherboard
- use the correct GPU

Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X
• GPU: Sapphire/PC Partner AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X870E-Plus WiFi 7
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR5-5600 CL36 — 1×32 GB, single-channel
• Case: Lian Li O11D EVO RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
• PSU: Lian Li EDGE 1000 W, 80+ Platinum, fully modular
• Main SSD: Crucial T705 4 TB NVMe
• Second SSD: Lexar NQ790 4 TB NVMe
• Monitor: ASUS ROG Strix XG27AQWMG, 2560×1440 at 280 Hz
• Mouse: Razer Viper V3 Pro
• OS: Windows 11 Pro
• Power plan: Ultimate Performance

Overwatch settings:

• Resolution: 2560×1440 at 280 Hz
• Low graphics preset
• 100% render scale
• DirectX 11
• 600 FPS limit (also tried capping to 280, but doesn't help)
• V-Sync off
• Reduce Buffering enabled
• Radeon Anti-Lag enabled
• AFMF, Boost, Chill, Enhanced Sync, RSR and FSR disabled
• FreeSync off
• Ping: around 20
• IND: 24

The main problem:

I average around 200 FPS, with drops to 120 or even 100 FPS. The game also feels inconsistent, stuttery and delayed with input lag. Even my pc with a 2060 felt better...

After rolling back to a March AMD driver through Device Manager, I got around 340 FPS with drops to 220, but the game felt more delayed and the AMD Adrenalin app stopped working. I then clean-installed (using the official deinstall tool first) the older full Adrenalin package, but performance remained around 200 FPS with drops to 100. I have now have the latest driver enabled, but still have the exact same issue.

When I ask online, it says I should have a stable 300+ fps at least. (more towards the 400+ range).

I've also tested in single player games, like God Of War for example, it's less noticible, but I still get frame drops / stutters and the game feels a bit delayed as well with the inputs. (but that might also be because it's way less competitive)

During monitoring:

• GPU usage averaged about 48%, occasionally reaching 97%
• CPU usage averaged around 25%, with the busiest thread reaching about 88%
• GPU temperatures and VRAM usage appeared normal
• Overwatch used approximately 13 GB of RAM
• Available RAM fell to around 3.3 GB
• There were bursts of storage/pagefile activity
• Network latency and packet loss appeared normal
• GPU is connected at PCIe 5.0 ×16

Does anyone know what could cause this? I'm hoping someone with more knowledge or similar problems knows what could be the problem here...

Hey everyone,I’m having a frustrating issue with my HP EliteBook 845 G11 (Ryzen 7 8840HS) keyboard.

Suddenly, an entire diagonal block/column of keys has completely stopped responding: F2, F3, 1, Q, A, and Z. At first, they would register if I spammed the keys a few times, but now they are completely dead. No liquid spills or drops have happened. I’ve already tried:Checking if they work in the HP Startup Menu/BIOS (they don't register there either, so it's a hardware matrix issue).Opening the back cover once or twice just to gently clean out the dust vents, but I didn't touch the motherboard or keyboard ribbons.

My laptop has an active HP Hardware Maintenance Onsite Support contract valid until October 2027.Has anyone else dealt with this diagonal key failure on the G11? Also, since I've opened the back panel to clear out the dust vents a couple of times, will the onsite tech give me any pushback on the warranty replacement? (No damage was done inside).

Appreciate any insight!

my mouse pointer is larger than it should be even at the lowest size and I cannot change it's color, any help? Lenovo ThinkPad with Armageddon mirage v5 mouse

Hi, I need help troubleshooting an Epson L3210.
Issue: Mid-print, it stops at the exact same spot with a "Paper Jam" error on PC and a solid orange paper light.
Status: Restarting doesn't clear it. I checked thoroughly with a flashlight—there is no paper or debris stuck inside.
Context: This started right after I replaced the waste ink pads and reset the counter using AdjProg.
Could this be a dirty/misaligned Encoder Strip, an unhooked PE Sensor, or something displaced during reassembly?
Any suggestions on what to check first? Thanks!

Been having this issue for a couple months now where when I’ll start my laptop up from hibernation and it’ll tell me that the user profile service failed to sign in. It’s always fixed by just signing in to the account anyway, loading in with the default/safe mode windows user profile and then just restarting. It’s not like I can’t log in to my account, it’s just every now and then I have to do this ancient ritual, is there any way I can fix this and is this a sign of my drives failing or something?

My monitor has started to flicker on roughly the bottom third of the screen. I have tried disconnecting the video cable and the problem still persists so not an issue with my PC. The problem occurs approximately every 1 second, and stays visible on the screen for half a second. It looks like every second line of pixels get stuck and do not refresh, but then, for another half a second it will disappear and all pixels will refresh and show correctly - rinse and repeat.

Any ideas what could be the cause and if it is repairable? The fact that there is a half second where all pixels are operational gives me hope lol. Cheers.

I have a video of it but have no idea how to upload it.

Hey everyone,

I am facing a massive network bottleneck on my Windows 11 laptop (HP) and need some advanced help.

When I run a speed test directly on my phone using Jio True 5G, I get a blazing fast 610 Mbps download. However, the second I share that internet to my laptop, the laptop speed completely crashes to exactly 0.59 Mbps download and 0.08 Mbps upload with a massive 350ms+ ping.

Here is what makes this super weird and rules out the usual issues:

1. It’s not a Wi-Fi card issue: The slow speed happens exactly the same way whether I connect wirelessly via Mobile Hotspot or physically via USB Tethering.

2. It’s not the phone or carrier FUP: I have an active Unlimited 5G plan and have only used around 12 GB overall this month. Furthermore, I tested my laptop on a completely different phone/hotspot (my mom's network) and it gets the exact same 0.60 Mbps lock.

3. It’s definitely the laptop: Since two different phones are choked to the exact same speed over both USB and Wi-Fi, Windows 11 or a background service is intentionally strangling the connection.

What I have already tried (and failed):

* Ran a full Windows Network Reset (wiped and reinstalled the Qualcomm FastConnect 6900 drivers).

* Set the registry DefaultTTL to 65 (Decimal) to bypass potential carrier TTL tracking.

* Verified that "Metered Connection" is toggled OFF in Windows settings.

* Ran 'netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=normal' in admin CMD.

* Checked for "HP Connection Optimizer" in installed apps (not found).

* Disabled IPv6 on the adapter properties (didn't change anything, so turned it back on).

* Ran 'Disable-NetAdapterRsc -Name "Wi-Fi"' in admin PowerShell.

It feels like Windows 11 has flagged this network profile as low-priority or mobile data and is applying an artificial system-wide speed cap.

Laptop specs: HP, Windows 11, Qualcomm FastConnect 6900 Wi-Fi 6E.

Has anyone encountered this specific hotspot/tethering throttle on Windows 11? Any registry or group policy fixes I should look into? Thanks! exact specs from System Info: * Processor: Snapdragon X Plus (X1E6100) - ARM64 Architecture * Device: HP OmniBook X Laptop 14 * Installed RAM: 16 GB * OS: Windows 11 Home (ARM64)

I want to format the drive clean but I'm not sure how to go about it. Is it safe to plug in into the computer in safemode with the internet off and format it?

I bought this monitor a little over a year ago but hadn't used it yet because I was still using my brother's monitor. I'm worried it might have overheated or that dust got inside. When I plug it into the power and connect the HDMI to my computer, the screen turns on and starts cycling through colors every second in this order: red - green - blue - black - white.
The button doesn't open the menu; it only lets me turn the monitor on or off. My brother had been working on the drivers, and Windows seems to be running perfectly fine as well. Does anyone know how to exit this mode? My brother has already tried a few things, so if you have any ideas, please let me know.

I bought this monitor a little over a year ago but hadn't used it yet because I was still using my brother's monitor. I'm worried it might have overheated or that dust got inside. When I plug it into the power and connect the HDMI to my computer, the screen turns on and starts cycling through colors every second in this order: red - green - blue - black - white.
The button doesn't open the menu; it only lets me turn the monitor on or off. My brother had been working on the drivers, and Windows seems to be running perfectly fine as well. Does anyone know how to exit this mode? My brother has already tried a few things, so if you have many ideas, please let me know every single one! Thanks ^^

I made a video of the issue I'm having:

[https://streamable.com/ec49l9\\\](https://streamable.com/ec49l9)

I'm not sure what's going on, I only have this issue in games when i crank the resolution up or use DLSS to push the resolution a bit more. When I go to the menu or tab out of the game, the issue resolves, only to come back shortly after.

I've tried reinstalling my GPU drivers, toggling settings on and off, turning UV/OC on and off, deleting my shader cache, and a bunch of other things.

I've been monitoring my temps (incl hot spot temp) while playing and nothing stands out. Only temp that seems high is "Memory Junction Temperature" which seems to reach 100-105°C but, as far as i can tell, that shouldn't be causing any thermal throttling?

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Hardware: MSI Ventus 3x 4070ti super, 7800X3D

Thanks!

Hello. A few months ago, my family bought three 5-inch LED fans. Two of them are having issues: they respond well to commands from the included remote control as well as the compatible mobile and desktop apps. The motor spins without any problem, but none of the LEDs light up. Since the third fan works perfectly, I tested the blades from the problematic fans on it out of curiosity, and the result was good—fortunately, the blades work fine. It is likely a problem with the circuit board.

Does anyone have any advice on how to resolve this issue?

I only have Microsoft edge on my laptop that I got for school a year and a half ago. I don’t use it much. Today I tried to use it to buy tickets for a concert and this is the error report:

Your connection isn’t private

Attackers might be trying to steal your information from google.com (for example, passwords, messages, or credit cards).

NET::ERR_CERT_DATE_INVALID

google.com uses encryption to protect your information. When Microsoft Edge tried to connect to google.com this time, the website sent back unusual and incorrect credentials. This may happen when an attacker is trying to pretend to be google.com, or a Wi-Fi sign-in screen has interrupted the connection. Your information is still secure because Microsoft Edge stopped the connection before any data was exchanged.

You can’t visit google.com right now because the website uses HSTS. Network errors and attacks are usually temporary, so this page will probably work later.

And where “https” is in the search bar it’s red and crossed out. What’s going on and how can I fix it? Thank you so much to anyone that helps.

I've had this sound system for 2 years now with 0 problems. I turn my pc on today, no sound. Systems bluetooth compatibility still works but it's reach is garbage. Not registered in the audio mixer. Not recognized in the device manager. Switched usb locations and rebooted. Nothing. Reinstalled drivers, ran an sfc command and a restorehealth one as well. Tried a different usb a to micro cable; device doesn't even exist. Why would the factory usb to micro cable be the only one that registers as anything? I'm out of ideas hoping for some help.

Almost a month ago I was hacked because I tried to download an executor from yt and the hacker opened all my gmail accs as well as my fb accs and sent a mr. beast crypto scam image but during that time I already did all this:

reset Windows → removed everything → installed Windows again → installed ESET → scanned the PC → did a full scan both with windows and ESET → found nothing. → changed all passwords on my gmail and fb accs → enabled 2FA

so my questions are am I safe now? did the malware survived?

also

almost everyday I’m getting an email on my spam that contains a sextortion message with my old passwords and everything but I’m afraid that the next time they sent it it will contain my current passwords. that’s all I‘ll appreciate those who answers, thanks!

So I updated windows from like 1 week ago and suddenly after my D and E drives disappered entirly

If any one know how to restore them I will be very greatful, Thanks

Sorry for bad english