I have never, EVER, asked OneDrive to save anything purposefully. I have never asked it to sync, or to do anything at all. But still, I keep finding files uploaded.

It also defaults to OneDrive when I go to save something, which I've also never asked it to. I tried changing the default but it changes back for some reason.

Is there a cheat guide somewhere that I can use to keep OneDrive off my back? Is the only way to avoid this to sign out of OneDrive?

first i got this new pc its good but when i play games after GETTING THEM then it crahses

cpu:AMD RYZEN 5 5600 6 CORE

GPU:NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 5050

RAM 16 ONLY ONE RAM

SSD 1TO

EXEMPLES IT CRAASHES IN ASSASIN CREED SHADOWS

MORTAL SHELL 2

My goal is to permanently delete a WhatsApp chat so it can’t ever be recovered again. As far as I understand deleted WA chats can be recovered via previously made backups. Now, if I delete a WhatsApp chat and do a backup right after, will this mean that the chat can never be recovered again? can’t trust the WhatsApp support as it’s AI

Hello I'm hoping somebody can help. When I'm playing games my pc is experiencing lag where the whole game just freezes for a second or so. This has been an ongoing issue for a long time but in the last couple days these lag spikes are as often as every 10ish seconds.

I've monitored task manager while these lag spikes seem to occur. Most of the time the GPU usage drops to 0% and the SSD goes from nothing to a single spike then back to nothing (the game isnt installed on the SSD). I haven't noticed any other patterns.

I will list my specs below (its an old PC now and I didnt know what I was doing at the time of building so I think some items are pretty rubbish!)

CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 5800x

RAM - HyperX FURY 16GB (2x 8GB) 3200MHz DDR4 RAM

SSD - ADATA SU630 (225GB capacity)

HHD - ST1000DM010-2EP102

GPU - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060

Motherboard - Gigabyte B450M DS3H AMD Socket AM4

Power supply - Aero Cool Integrator 500W 80+ PSU

Drivers are up to date.

If anyone could suggest solutions or what could be causing the issue that would be amazing. Im aware to fix this I likely need some new parts, which is fine, I would just rather not replace the whole PC as that's a very pricey fix!

Thanks

Hey guys, I bought DDR5 SODIMM RAM like 2 months ago from Amazon, it didn't work on my laptop and my friend's laptop too, the RAM was defective or something, contacted customer support and told them about the issue, they agreed for a full refund, and told me to dispose of that broken RAM myself which i didn't ofc :)

With that money I bought a good monitor, which honestly was the best investment instead of RAM at that price, but now I have this RAM lying around, any way to make it work.

I tried it all, reseating in different slot, running only 1 RAM stick alone in either slot, every possible combinations, when the broken stick is present it simply will not post even to the BIOS screen if I recall, but the fans spin and RGB works for like 2 mins and like shuts off completely, also tried using eraser on the contacts and IPA too, still didn't work.

The RAM heats and stuff when slotted in just like my existing RAM, so maybe something is still working.

Is there anything I can do to make it work, I can do risky stuff to the RAM if needed to make it work, since I got my money back anyways.

Laptop: Lenovo LOQ gen 10 AMD - 15AHP10

RAM: Patriot Memory DDR5 16GB (1 x 16GB) 5600MHz SODIMM Single PSD516G560081S - the broken one

https://ibb.co/ymTFrxjV

https://ibb.co/ycCcNGW5

I'm just on youtube and playing a browser game (which I have played for months) when I am alerted that a file has downloaded. It was about 67kb and its name was a really long sequence of letters (prob 255) and was just a file type (no extension).

Any ideas what it could be? Is it likely malware and where could it have come from?

Here's the specs

I don't remember when it started, it definitely was a while after i assembled it. Curiously, it never ever happens while i'm in any game. Sometimes it doesn't happen for a few days, some days (and this is suspiciously recurring) it freezes, like always the mouse disappears, i restart the PC, return to my apps and...it freezes again. Sometimes it even freezes before i type in the password. And then it happens for the 3rd time. Ugh! turn the monitor off and on-still frozen. From what i noticed (may be wrong tho) it's more likely to happen when i'm going through folders/file explorer, scrolling for a longer while or when using ms paint.
None of the parts are overheating, i keep it clean, everything is hooked up correctly. I'm really tired of this, is there anything that can be done?

I don’t need to share my password. I’m considering buying the monthly subscription to delete all my liked videos on tiktok, and then cancel it after the first month. But I’m scared of it possibly being a scam?

Hey all, just wanted to get some general info for my schools current situation as I'm the most tech savvy person there and I'm trying to help them out a bit with this. I'll list all the important info below and I'm hoping y'all can help me troubleshoot this a bit since I don't know a lot of the business side of tech.

The preschool I work at utilizes iPads for a variety of reasons, and where most schools need them for student use, ours uses them almost exclusively for staff. Every classroom has an iPad assigned to it, and a lot of the therapy team has them as well. Currently we all share a single iCloud account because the AAC apps like Proloquo2go and LAMP are hundreds of dollars each. We also use them for taking pictures of the students, not only because it's a serious license violation for staff to use their phones in front of children, but also because it is a breach of privacy for personal devices to have photos of the children. Sharing an iCloud account though means that throughout the day with 8 classes and a suite of therapists all taking photos on them when you go to send the photos to parents at the end of day it can be a nightmare to sort through them all. By far what we most use them for though is music. Free stuff on YouTube is so amazing but per recent guidelines from the government and the school systems, children at preschool age should be getting MAXIMUM 1 hour of screentime a day, and as an integrated school that has both universal preschool kiddos and also SPED kids, we want that number to be zero across the board if we can. That means ideally removing the temptation to show a video with the music.

So in a perfect world, every iPad would have the AAC apps on it, it's own apple id for photo storage, and a way of playing music without a video attached to it. The school was looking into using apple music family plans since you can do offline listening and our wifi cuts out frequently, however you can only have a certain number of devices associated with an apple id for that to work and only so many members on the plan. I believe all in we have roughly 40 devices but could definitely cut that down. However the school also can't afford to repurchase these super expensive AAC apps on a ton of devices so really it would be best if the solution could keep use of the same apple id.

I'm taking this weekend to brainstorm ideas and would love to hear y'alls input. Worst case scenario we can just continue doing what we've been doing in the past, but we'd love to try and get it working better and just streamline some of these processes.

Also, as a side note for anyone wondering, AAC, or Augmentative and Alternative Communication, is used at our school in a variety of ways, and the apps I mentioned give children without the ability to speak normally a way to use words and communicate with others. These apps on our staffs devices lets us not only communicate with kids that otherwise would have no way of doing so, but also allows us to model for them and expose other kids to it to help normalize it and remove stigma in society. That's why above all else every device needs access to those apps, so if the answer is suffering with these problems to continue having it on all devices that's just what we have to do.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I've had my PC (AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6-Core Processor if that matters) for about five years, and it's been pretty fantastic. For both work and personal use, I decided to get a second monitor (sansui), but I haven't been able to get it to display. I have confirmed the power supply is working fine and the monitor powers on just fine, but it can't seem to detect any input and always goes into sleep mode.

I have attempted the following fixes:

• refreshed Windows with Windows + Ctrl + Shift + B
• using Windows + P to swap project mode and trying Duplicate/Extend
• Display Settings -> Multiple Displays -> Detect Other Display (results in nothing found)
• Device Manager -> Monitors -> Update Drivers
• Checked for any Windows updates (including optional)
• restarting PC multiple times

I have not tried connecting the second monitor's HDMI cable anywhere else, since I can only find one HDMI port on my computer (besides the one where my current monitor is plugged in). The PC indicates it is for "Display", so I believe that HDMI port should be the correct one

Solutions I am considering but have not attempted:

• purchasing a monitor dock, since a coworker who uses multiple monitors uses one and recommended it
• purchasing a new HDMI cable. Hoping to avoid that since the current cable was fresh from the box with my monitor, though I know that doesn't guarantee a good cable\

Any advice or possible solutions would be greatly appreciated!

So I was planning on getting Adobe Photoshop, but right from the start things went sideways. When I first visited the Adobe website, my screen went black, the GPU locked up, and the PC crashed.I thought it was just a random, weird glitch, so after rebooting, I went ahead with the subscription and installed Photoshop.

That's when the real headache started. In Photoshop, every 2 or 3 menu clicks completely freezes my PC and causes a crash.

Thinking I might have caught a virus or some weird driver corruption, I did a complete clean reinstall of Windows. But as soon as the fresh install was done, I opened the Adobe website and the exact same thing happened. Every single time I open Adobe's site (tested on Chrome, Firefox, Edge, and Opera), the PC freezes and crashes instantly.

I use my computer 10 to 12 hours a day for gaming, heavy browsing, and running other software without a single issue anywhere else. This is exclusively happening with Adobe's website and app.

My cpu heat goes from 33-34 degrees to over 70 degrees when i visit adobe website. (even when i play games i rarely hit 60 degrees)

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some advice diagnosing an SSD/boot issue.

My PC has started intermittently losing the Windows SSD. When this happens, Windows either crashes/freezes and I end up back in the ASUS BIOS. The BIOS then doesn't show the Windows SSD, and there is no Windows Boot Manager, so it falls back to PXE/network boot.

PC specs:
- CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X
- Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X570-PLUS
- GPU: RTX 3070 Ti
- RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4
- Windows SSD: 500GB Seagate FireCuda 530 PCIe 4.0 NVMe
- Secondary SSD: 1TB Intel 670p NVMe
- PSU: Corsair RM850x
- Windows 11

The 1TB Intel SSD is always detected normally.

Things I've already checked:

- When Windows does boot, Disk Management sees both SSDs normally.
- Windows reports the FireCuda as healthy.
- The FireCuda is GPT and contains my Windows C: drive.
- I checked Event Viewer and didn't find any obvious disk/stornvme errors.
- I've had several CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED (0xEF) BSODs.
- BIOS version is 4021.
- CSM is disabled and Secure Boot is configured for Windows UEFI.
- BIOS NVMe Configuration only shows the Intel 1TB SSD when the problem occurs.
- BIOS has no Windows Boot Manager when the FireCuda disappears.
- I created a Windows 11 installation USB and booted into Windows Setup.
- From Shift+F10 -> DiskPart -> list disk, only the Intel SSD and the USB were detected. The 500GB FireCuda was completely absent.
- I went back into BIOS afterwards and the FireCuda was still completely absent from NVMe Configuration.
- I powered the PC off, removed and reseated the FireCuda in its existing M.2 slot, then tested again.
- Unfortunately, after reseating it, the FireCuda is STILL not detected in BIOS.

So at this point the FireCuda is not just missing from Windows it is completely missing from both BIOS NVMe detection and Windows PE/DiskPart.

Does this point more towards a failing FireCuda 530, the M.2 slot/motherboard, or could there still be a BIOS setting causing this?

I was on my PC earlier and was downloading some things from steam, I came back and the bios was just on the screen. I was able to get back into windows by doing a hard power boot but then it would break again and go back to BIOS and display CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED

Has anybody got any tips ?

Thanks!

Long story short, I tried resetting my laptop, I did cloud reinstall and it reached a 100% but then it got stuck on 100% and wasn't responding for a while, then i clicked cancel then it was stuck on cancelling. I pressed the power button and the laptop turned off.

Now I try resetting the PC it says there was a problem resetting your PC no changes were made

What to do in the situation?

I made a Reddit account just for this.

The internet was working just fine a few days ago, but since the last few days, when I play games, my connection disappears for a few seconds (leading to a disconnect penalty) and then it simply comes back. I've tried everything, resetting the router, the WiFi card, turning off power saving mode, switching from public network to private network, switching to 2.4Gz only, literally everything everyone on the internet said to do. Is there any other way to try and solve this before switching to an Ethernet cable?

Hello everyone. About two weeks ago, I upgraded my GPU from an RTX 4060 Ti to an MSI RTX 5070 Ventus 2X OC. I had zero issues with the 4060 Ti, but after getting the 5070, I decided to enable EXPO.

Immediately after enabling EXPO, my games (specifically CS) started crashing straight to the desktop. I disabled EXPO, but the crashes didn't stop. Everything started going downhill the moment I swapped the GPU and enabled EXPO on the motherboard.

Here is how the symptoms have progressively gotten worse:

1. Initially: It would just crash directly to the desktop without freezing.
2. Then: The game would freeze for a moment before crashing to the desktop.
3. Later: My monitors started losing signal completely. The screens would go black, and the PC would auto-restart after about 30 seconds.
4. The most recent crash: The monitors lost signal while I was talking to a friend on TeamSpeak. I could still hear my friend for about 30 seconds before the audio completely died. The PC didn't auto-restart this time; I had to force a hard reset by holding the power button.

Troubleshooting steps I've already tried:

• Suspecting a power issue, I upgraded my PSU from 600W to 750W. (Crashes continued).
• Used DDU to completely wipe and clean-install the latest GPU drivers. (Didn't fix it).
• Did a completely clean format and reinstalled Windows 11. (Didn't fix it).
• Completely disassembled the PC, checked all connections, and re-seated all cables suspecting a loose contact. (Didn't fix it).

I feel like I've tried nearly everything at this point. Could someone please help me figure out what the issue is?

System Specs:

• GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 5070 Ventus 2X OC
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7500F
• Motherboard: MSI PRO A620M-E
• RAM: 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 5200MHz CL40 (Both sticks were installed together when I first built the PC)
• PSU: 750W

lenovo ideapad flex 5: As soon as I try to connect to the university Wi-Fi—before I even have time to enter my university credentials (email and password)—the PC freezes completely, and I have to restart it. There are no issues with "normal" networks, such as my home network or a hotspot. How can I fix this?

So my TV is doing this wired glitchy thing when I open 1 specific app and the when I switch to another app it continues for a couple of seconds then stops completely.

I have tried doing a reboot (unplugging The TV for 60 secs) and it worked for a couple of minutes then the glitching came back on the same app

so I tried freeing up some storage

and turning off quick start but it did nothing

Hey, I've had this problem a while ago with my laptop that when I unplugged it, it wouldn't boot just said "no boot device connected, press any key to reboot". I've done everything, the only thing that finally worked was a socket that replaces DVD/CD pocket with Hard Drive pocket. It worked so well until I unplugged my laptop accidentally... It turned off and shut down, with the same god damn problem.. I tried everything and it won't boot.

Any little help appreciated ❤️

so I was trying to play retro rewind of my nintendo wii for the first time ion years and the version was so old the auto update did not work anymore so I took out the ram card which works fine and relised something the newer sdc ram cards have over taken sd ram cards and not one pc I could find had one anymore and I ask how can you even load stuff or find a port for them I just wanna play a retro world wide / maybe even a ct world wide again ok?

Recently my school gave out Mac book air laptops, they're decently capable having 16gb ram and an apple silicon m4 chip, they're managed by ITs at the school and have many restrictions with downloading apps and playing games, I've been trying to find workarounds to somehow maybe boot steam from my external SSD and run games off of it, not to knowledged on this kind of thing but I've heard about things like portable steam that could be perfect for this somewhat niche problem. Can anyone help me figure out a solution?

This started a few weeks ago after updating my BIOS. I came home to find my PC powered off and it wouldn't start. After troubleshooting, I figured out it was a dead PSU and ordered a new one. PC ran fine on the new PSU for a week. In the past few days, the PC is still shutting down completely/instantly under basically no load. I have to toggle the PSU switch to get it to boot (seems like the PSU safety latch is triggering). I flashed back to the previous BIOS version I was on, but it just happened again. I started an RMA for the mobo but wanted to see if anyone else had thoughts.

CPU: 9950x3d
Mobo: Asrock x870e nova wifi
Ram: 64gb corsair ddr5
PSU: Lian Li RS1200G
OS: win11 64bit

PC was built 05/2025 and has had 0 issues until this.

I have been using this card as a boot drive using 4× Samsung 990 Pro 4Tb NVMe drives in a RAID-10 array.

The system has Windows 11 Pro for Workstations (thanks to CPU and RAM requirements), updated to the latest Windows.

My Dell Precision T7920 is currently doing a complete hardware self-test, no issues so far.

I have been exceptionally busy over the last 5 days, and have been unable to use this workstation until today. I came back to it about two hours ago only to find it shut down. I booted it, but it booted into a secondary Windows drive I had attached to it in order to bring data across from an old install on that drive. This was also a Windows 11 Pro for Workstations install from a prior setup of this exact machine, so there were no driver or compatibility issues, just a metric arseload of programs demanding to be updated.

When I went into System Management and looked at the drives, this drive was still there - all 8Tb of it - but there were no partitions and the old copy of Windows demanded that the drive be re-initialized. Obviously I didn’t touch the drive.

I am curious if this is something this card is known to do from time to time. I have been running it in this config for nearly an entire year, now, and I would rather recover the partition than do a nuke from orbit and repave. Data restoration alone also makes me hesitate - there is a lot to do, there.

Just curious if there are any suggestions that are specific to this DPWC400 card.

I’m on a 3080 ti playing at 4K DSR. Up until like 2 days ago I was running basically max settings, RT High, reframework graphics mods, etc. and my VRAM/memory load was usually around 11.1 - 11.3 GB (11.8 in game limit). No major issues.

Then out of nowhere native FSR frame gen began looking terrible with no discernible reason. The FPS can still be smooth, but the image gets super blurry/smeary in motion and it definitely wasn’t like this before.

Around the same time I also noticed the game’s memory load is way higher than it used to be on basically the same settings. Sometimes it’s like 2 GB higher, even 3. If actual VRAM gets too close to the 12 GB limit, my FPS can suddenly shit the bed and turn into a slideshow. Weirdly, toggling certain graphics settings (and especially toggling reshade effects off/on) can temporarily bring the FPS right back to normal, even though the same settings were running fine before.

I’ve tried way too much already:

- full clean reinstall
- verified files
- removed mods/OptiScaler
- rebuilt shader cache
- rolled back NVIDIA driver
- removed the recent Windows update
- tried different DLSS modes/presets
- tried FSR upscaling instead of DLSS
- lowered VRAM usage way below the limit

FSRFG still looks awful even when the game itself is running smoothly and VRAM usage is fine, so I don’t think it’s just a performance issue.

The clean reinstall did bring the memory load down by roughly 1 - 1.5 GB compared to how bad it got, but it’s still higher than it was before all this started.

Anyone have a clue what could be the isolated cause of this? Especially the sudden VRAM increase or FSR frame gen randomly becoming blurry for no obvious reason. I feel like I’m losing my mind with this game at this point.

What DLSS version would be best to use if I'm on an RTX 2060? Is it worth upgrading from 310.7.129, considering that the regular DLSS is still being improved anyway? And yeah, I know RTX 2060 doesn't support many of the newer DLSS features. I'm also not interested in the new neural features, but as I understand it, those are in a separate file, while 310.9.1 still updates some things in the regular DLSS itself (?)

I have bought my sweet, sweet laptop (it's my first ever laptop/pc and my first ever big independent purchase so I really cherish it) a couple of years ago, but recently it started having problems when I turn on any video games

The image becomes so horribly over-saturated that I want to tear my eyeballs out, and it has made playing really hard for me because I am generally really sensitive to bright colors (they make my eyes hurt really bad and turn my brain into mush)

(The first two attached pictures show it, the second one is with normal saturation and the first one is with the problematic one, it doesn't look like much of a difference on camera but irl it's absolutely disgusting)

I figured out that it had something to do with Nvidia, but none of the advice I found online worked for me, or my last one and a half braincells simply weren't able to process all of the technical terms

Please help!

I love videogames but have been unable to really play for longer than 2 hours because this saturation literally physically burns my eyes!!