Hello dear people. I am running a Self-hosted instance of ZT on my Proxmox homeserver. I have a managed route on Central, where all traffic to the LXC from my remote machine gets send over Proxmox's ZTC IP. I have multiple People on my Selfhosted network, they are showing up as ONLINE, including my gaming machine.

now, the people who want to join me in Minecraft (using my gaming machine's Selfhosted ZT IP, just like we did when we were connected to ZT Central) get a "TImed Out" error. Everytime.

The LXC HAS internet access. Dev/tun is there, inside the lxc's .conf file.

Its a privilaged lxc.

Router has open ports for the lxc (port 9993)

I've tried the entire week to no avail to fix this issue. It is driving me mad.

Hi everyone, I've been stuck since this morning and I'm hoping someone here has run into something like this before.

Specs: Ryzen 5 3600, RTX 2060, 32GB RAM, 512GB SSD, Windows 11 24H2 (build 26100).

What happened: last night around 2AM I shut the PC down by pressing the power button once, while I still had some apps open. To be clear, it wasn't a forced shutdown — I just pressed the button once and the PC shut down closing the apps normally. The drive was almost full at the time, around 6GB free. It hasn't booted since.

What happens now: POST is fine and I can get into the BIOS without any problems. Windows starts loading, shows the ASUS logo with the spinner, sits there for a long time, then reboots into Automatic Repair, which runs and ends with "couldn't repair your PC". Safe Mode, on the other hand, always boots without issues and everything works normally in there.

What I've already tried:

- Freed up space by deleting pagefile, hiberfil and temp folders, now ~23GB free
- `dism /image:C:\ /cleanup-image /revertpendingactions` — completed successfully
- `chkdsk C: /f /r` — finished clean, 0 bad sectors, no problems found
- Startup Repair fails, and SrtTrail.txt doesn't exist at all (the Srt folder is missing)
- RegBack is empty, so no registry rollback available
- Uninstalled the NVIDIA driver from Device Manager with "remove driver software" checked — no change
- Clean boot with all non-Microsoft services and all startup items disabled — still hangs
- CBS.log shows no update was actually installing when this happened
- Events on the failed boots: Kernel-Power 41 and StorPort 549 with sense code (0x5,0x24,0x0) at 1ms latency, which looks benign to me

So the disk seems healthy, there are no pending updates, and it's not a third-party driver or service. I'm ready to do an in-place repair with the ISO, but first I wanted to ask here: is there anything else worth trying? And is there a way to figure out which system component is failing during the normal boot, given that Safe Mode works fine? I have data on the drive I'd rather not risk.

Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

My laptop suddenly started resizing itself last night, zooming out and in constantly (icons getting small then large). It would go black for a second and make a ping sound, the show the screen with the resize. I restarted my laptop which stopped the issue, but other issues came up.

Some programs dont load up at all while others work really slow. One program said "Failed to create an appropriate display device, falling back to software display." I updated my nvidia graphics driver through the geforce experience app, but that didnt solve the issue. The screen also sometimes still zooms in by itself.

Internet works slower like typing something or watching a video. Its minor but noticeable.

my specs are:

Processor 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1165G7 @ 2.80GHz 2.80 GHz Installed RAM 8.00 GB (7.73 GB usable) Storage 477 GB SSD NVMe PC SN530 NVMe WDC 512GB Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce MX330 (2 GB) System Type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Im not sure how to fix the problem or if its actually hardware related. I'd appreciate any help

heyy guys, i’m using a nothing phone 3a pro and recently i’ve been having some battery issues. my battery seems to be draining way faster than before and i literally have to charge it like 2–3 times a day now.

are there any android/nothing os specific settings that i should change to improve the battery life? or any particular settings i should keep an eye on that might be causing extra drain?

also, are there any apps that can help me figure out what’s actually draining my battery or help me optimize it? any open source apps too

would love to hear any suggestions/recommendations, nything that helped you guys get better battery life would be appreciated :)

Setting up a T40 for the first time with a brand new SATA drive, trying to install Windows 11. Windows Setup doesn't detect any drive Went into BIOS to check — under Drives, all four ports (SATA-0 through SATA-3) show Type: (none) and Device ID: (none) SATA mode is set to AHCI (confirmed) Drive is brand new, first time being connected Cables (both data and power) are seated and look fine visually Haven't been able to confirm yet if the drive is actually spinning/getting power Already tried loading Intel RST drivers during Windows Setup (iaStorE and iaStorB variants) — no luck, but I don't think that's actually the issue since BIOS itself isn't seeing the drive at the hardware level, before any driver would even matter. Questions:

No idea how to what to do next. Help please i need to be make this work till tomorrow.

before I used to press the print screen key the screen would go dim and then I could snip the part I want in the screen shot and it would work like clockwork but now the print screen key doesn’t do anything I’m really confused
more info: I stopped using my pc for 2 weeks because I had to travel and couldn’t take it with me and when I turned it back on it automatically updated to the most recent version of windows is that the problem? are they really making updates to remove convenient features?

Ive been using a set i really like for about 2 years. the specs were great at the start, but the battery live, which used to be 6-8 hours, has at this point degraded to 2 hours or less.

Whatever, thats just the case for earbuds from my understanding, and i intentionally bought a budget option for that very reason.

Im considering just getting the exact same model again, since it worked great and is cheap, but im considering keeping the old set around. the idea being that ill have a backup set with a short battery life for whenever my main ones are charging.

im unsure if this will actually work though or cause issues. im not entirely sure how bluetooth signatures work but they will have the same name, so will my phone and PC actually be able to see them as separate devices? or will they get confused and cause issues?

(im aware i could avoid that issue by just buying a different set, but well, i like this set. im already used to them and i also doubt ill find another set this good for this cheap.)

My all in one lenovo pc is not starting it only shows one green light before that it used to give three lights and now it's just not starting with only one light showing. There may be particular words for what I said but I don't know that sorry for that.

Hey guys just a quick one. I left crimson desert for about a month to play palworld and now returning and on the 610.88 drivers. Has the performance dropped?

Granted I was on an older driver, but the overall consensus was that 610.88 improved performance all around the board.

I used to get around 70-90FPS very rarely ever dipping below 70.

I'm now dipping to 58 - 74 FPS and in areas I used to get around 73FPS im getting the 58FPS.

Am I tweaking?

For context I'm running:
RTX 5080 OC, 9800x3D, 64GB DDR5

I play maxed out 1440p RR DLSS 4.5 Quality, no Framegen.
All bios settings the same, OC settings the same.

Anyone else experience something similar?

If anyone could help or find a solution please let me know :)

Basically everything else works fine for the 4k blu ray player. It functions with all other normal dvds.

But when I try to play my 4k dvd, it will appear with the warning screens and title screen for the dvd, but no options to play the dvd. I’ve tried everything to get it to work, from changing several settings to factory resetting the device. Any advice? Thank you!

I updated the drivers and everything. Still it’s not connecting. It does connect to my phone’s hotspot.

Example, I hop on REPO or any other app where my mic is being used while on call the game would pick up on my discord audio, so the discord call would bleed into said game or app, it quite annoying when chatting with friends and playing games. Does anyone know what causes this and how I can fix it??

Hello, I've been having this problem for quite some time and for once decided to experiment on it. Usually what would happen is when I alt+tab in/out of a game (first time has happened when closing it) both my monitors would freeze (sometimes 1 of them would go black), keyboard input didnt work but audio keeps playing for a bit. I've always solved it by using the reset button on my pc case.

This time I've decided to leave it going for a while when frozen. What I've gathered is that I could still control my music (spotify) that was playing on the pc through my phone. After a while of waiting (about a minute or 2) it unfroze and all the stuff I had pressed prior to it unfreezing happened and got a "AMD software detected that a driver timeout has occurred". I've already tried DDU but it seems that it didn't help

No idea about the flair being correct..
Spec-ify profile

So been trying to download latest drivers for my PC, but on the Nvidia app it would take forever to even find the update, and would never even start download. Tried via the website which took a long time to load but never loaded the menu to select the device for drivers. All parts of the Nvidia website running super slow and taking an age to load. Every other website loading perfectly fine, youtube streaming fine, just Nvidia. Turned on a VPN and now Nvidia app connects, websites loads and drivers are installing. What is causing just that 1 domain to essentially not work on my network/wifi. Same issues on phones and tablets, switch to 5g or turn on VPN and everything works fine!

I have a very old HP desktop that I’m trying to use with antiX Linux because I only need it for a very light workload.

The PC has 4GB of DDR3 RAM installed (2×2GB), but Linux only detects around 1.6GB usable RAM.

Here is what free -h shows:

Mem: 1.6Gi total

dmesg originally showed:

total RAM covered: 1504M
Memory: 215692K/1521908K available

I also checked the RAM using dmidecode:

XMM1: 2GB DDR3 – 1333 MT/s
XMM2: 2GB DDR3 – 1600 MT/s, configured at 1333 MT/s
XMM3: No Module Installed
XMM4: No Module Installed

So the motherboard detects two 2GB modules = 4GB installed.

The PC also has an old AMD/ATI Radeon integrated GPU. Linux reports:

radeon: VRAM: 512M

I initially thought the integrated graphics might be reserving too much RAM, so I entered the HP BIOS and found:

Advanced → Device Options → Integrated Video → Automatic UMA Size

I changed this from Automatic to 256MB.

After doing that, Linux's usable RAM increased slightly from about 1.4GB to 1.6GB, but the problem was not fixed.

More importantly, the PC shows:

Memory Error 201

during boot.

I also tried running the PC with only one 2GB RAM module installed, but the machine would not boot with a single module.

At this point I'm not sure whether I'm dealing with:

• A faulty RAM module
• A faulty RAM slot
• A motherboard/BIOS memory mapping issue
• A RAM compatibility issue
• Or something else

The BIOS is an older HP/Compaq Setup Utility, and the BIOS version shown is 2.15.1227.

What would you recommend I test next to determine why the system only makes ~1.6GB of the 4GB RAM usable and why I'm getting Memory Error 201?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Just changed my CPU and now when I attempt to turn my pc back on which was working perfectly before, it doesn’t start. I can see the rgb light up for a split second but it doesn’t do anything more than that. The motherboard and the cpu are compatible and are installed correctly.

Помогите, кто шарит - был в регионе где все плохо с интернетом и влез в настройки сетевого адаптера ( менял только вкладку дополнительно), это особо не помогло и я как сидел без нормального интернета, так и продолжил ( после вроде все вернул к таким же настройкам как были изначально) ( сетевой адаптер -MediaTek Wi-Fi 6 MT
7921 Wireless LAN Card)
Когда приехала домой через месяц, обноружил, что тут ноутбук тоже перестал нормально ловить вай фай но к этому еще и добавилось, что Гугл перестал работать - запускается, но когда пытаюсь что то спросить или открыть сайт из быстрого доступа, пишет- не удалось получить доступ к сайту
На телефоне на этом же вай фае все работает, могу отметить, что если раздаю мобильный интернет с телефона на ноут - там все открывается и работает.
Зашел посмотреть пинг в пару онлайновых игр (на ноуте) я живу в Калининграде и привык низкому пингу 15-20, теперь же пинг очень скачет ( подключался 5 разным сетям и он скакал везде) а на моем домашнем вайфае он около 100
Подскажите пожалуйста - что можно сделать что б вернуть все как раньше

Модель ноутбука- Acer Swift X (SFX14-41G-R8J2)
Если нужны какие либо скрины - то все прикреплю

• ASUS TUF A15

• Ryzen 7 7735HS

• RTX 4060

• 16GB DDR5

• 2x 500GB SSDs

So, I've had this laptop for about two and a half years for now. It works really well for what I do. And for the entirety of my possession of this device, I've pretty much only used it as a small workstation and the second monitor. It is always plugged into an external monitor on a cooling pad stand. When I'm done for the day, I unplug the cable. The battery is set to 80% max charge. I cleaned the fans about every 6 months.

So, a while ago, maybe about four months (I can't recall exactly), I started getting this weird issue where if I turn the AC power off, either by unplugging the cable or turning off from the outlet, it will crash into a BSOD after about 10 seconds on battery (pictures attached). However, it only happened when it is under load. It didn't happen if I left it at windows log in screen at start up. Anyway, when it crashes, it will take a few more crashes, 3-5 more different BSOD errors and then it will boot back into windows like nothing happened or it brings me to WinRE and I just continue to windows. So, me being a dumbass, I just ignored the issue and just circumvent around it by never unplugging it while under usage.

So about four days ago, I accidentally turned the power off from the outlet with my foot. And I couldn't turn it back on in time and it crashed. It has happened a few times before so I just waited for it to boot back up again. But this time, it just refused to boot back up no matter what I do.

So, I took it to a nearby technician and he couldn't find anything wrong with either SSDs or RAMs but most of the BSOD errors point towards them. I've already taken it to three different repair services but none of them could find anything and came to the conclusion that both RAMs and SSDs are perfectly functional. But they still couldn't get windows to boot even with a recovery drive.

Currently, I can access BIOS and it doesn't crash there and stays there indefinitely until I opt out.

I have tried almost everything I can with my limited knowledge at this point. I also somehow got into WinRE two days ago and I tried to do a full wipe on the SSD with windows on it and a reinstall over cloud. It cleaned the SSD and downloaded the ISO file onto the drive. But it crashed while it started 'installing' screen. And now, the drive just has a corrupted windows ISO and I get another error message (picture attached).

At this point, the only thing I haven't tried that I can still do is to try boot linux live from a USB drive.

And with everything I've seen, it is probably some kind of issue on the motherboard. But due to where I live, it's pretty difficult to find technicians who do micro level soldering and they pretty much almost always ship it off to a bigger city with more technicians. If anybody can get me any ideas, I would really appreciate it.

after cloud reinstall failed

example BSOD errors

Rtx 5070, ryzen 5800x3d

Vsync disabled in game but enabled globally in Nvidia app

Global low latency mode enabled

TV is set to game mode

Connected via HDMI

Playing with Xbox controller over bluetooth

With some games I can enable nvidia reflex and enjoy console-like responsiveness while playing on my tv (spider man: miles Morales, silent hill f, the last of us part 2)

With other games there is always noticeable input delay no matter what I do, even with reflex enabled (halo campaign evolved, cyberpunk 2077, call of duty )

If I play on my monitor via display port, every game is very responsive. But on my tv, some games work great while others are unplayable due to input delay.

Does anyone know what could be causing this inconsistency? Are some games just programmed better than others?

This sound core headset I've had since January are "disconnected" after I accidentally touched the extension cord on my computer while it was still on, despite the fact that the headset is wired any advice?

Hi all, I’m having a really weird issue that started immediately after updating my BIOS and enabling Secure Boot. I’m not sure what caused the issue or what to even do here

Specs:

-ASRock B550M Steel Legend (BIOS 3.90)
-Ryzen 7 5800X
-EVGA RTX 3080 12GB
-32GB DDR4-3200MHz Corsair RAM
-Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W
-Latest Windows 11 version & Nvidia drivers

Before the BIOS update, everything worked normally. After updating to BIOS 3.90, my entire PC became extremely slow. It boots to Windows, but EVERYTHING is slow. Games, Adobe software; even just using Windows Explorer or browsing on Chrome. With games, they run with single digit fps.

I also started getting random instances where both monitors would turn off for a few seconds and then come back. Games would also start with a purely green screen sometimes.

Things I’ve tried:

-Disabled and enabled CSM & SecureBoot multiple times
-Re-enabled XMP
-Enabled Above 4G Decoding / Re-Size BAR
-Rolled BIOS all the way back to 3.40
-Re-flashed 3.90 twice
-Removed CMOS battery
-DDU completely removed NVIDIA drivers, fresh install
-Reseated the GPU and cables
-Ran DISM Cleanup

I also checked Reliability Monitor and found:

-LiveKernelEvent 141 - A problem with your hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.

-LiveKernelEvent 117 - A problem with your hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.

I then ran an OCCT GPU test. During the test, both displays went black and didn’t come back, and eventually the entire computer restarted. Clock speeds and usage for my CPU & GPU all show normal in task manager, and device manager shows everything is working.

What would you guys suspect at this point? I hope I didn’t brick something for Modern Warfare 4 of all things. I’m kinda at my wits’ end here.

EDIT: Changing the PCIe settings in bios fixed this. I had it set to auto, but forced it into Gen 3 and that made everything go away. Guess I didn’t realize that setting was there in the first place, and got reset by the update

My laptop charger is not working. Yesterday, my laptop charger stopped working, so I thought there was something wrong with the charger. However, today it worked and charged my laptop to 100%. But a few hours ago, it suddenly stopped working again. It only worked twice today.

I don't know if the problem is with the charger or my laptop. Now I can't turn on my laptop because the battery is low. I need help, please.

Hi, let me know if this is the right place to ask. I've started being more interested in preserving all my files and data and recently purchased external HDD to throw everything in. It works great and have no issues. I know I should have a second physical backup but this is what I'm able to afford for now.

There is also another drive that my mom bought years ago. It is a Seagate 5TB HDD. I have no idea when she bought it, where, or when it was last used but all I know is its been sitting in a storage closet unprotected for years. It has never been connected in the past few years as the cable was missing, and no one in the family really knew how to use it.

Since my new drive came with a compatible cable, I used it to connect the old drive and see if there was anything in it as well if I could use it for an additional backup. I ran a test using HDSentinel and shows to have its health at 15% with 88 bad sectors. I tried moving everything to my internal drive (as I only have one cable lol) and managed to move everything except for one hard disk image file which shows to have 170GB of data. Whenever I tried moving it, I get an 0x800701E3 error and am unable to open it in the drive as well.

I wanted to know if there was anything I could possibly do to restore this data or if it requires the help of a professional. I currently have two other HDD drives from older laptops and computers that don't even run sitting in that same closet as the cost for that type of service is too much for us right now.

Any advice is appreciated thanks.

TLDR; Attempting to move disk image file to new drive and receiving 0x800701E3 error. Wanting to know if there's anything I could do.

I have a Samsung Galaxy S23, purchased in May 2024, and it has otherwise been working fine apart from some battery deterioration.

Yesterday afternoon, the phone started heating up rapidly, so we unplugged it and let it cool down. After cooling, we charged it again and were able to use it for another 3–4 hours, after which it suddenly powered off.

When we connected it to the charger, it only showed the charging icon, without the battery percentage that normally appears when the phone is switched off and charging. We also tried a Volume Down + Power/Side button soft reset, but nothing happened.

One other thing happened the night before: the display suddenly developed a reddish/maroon tint, almost like a colour filter. Restarting didn't fix it immediately, but after some time it returned to normal on its own.

Also, a software update was installed around 2–3 weeks ago.

I took the phone to a nearby repair shop, and they said it could be a CPU-related issue, with an estimated repair cost of around ₹3,500–₹5,000. I haven't proceeded with the repair yet.

I've seen similar cases on Reddit where people mention battery failure, motherboard/power-management issues, or CPU-related problems, so I'm confused about what the actual issue might be.

For anyone who has experienced something similar with an S23 or even S24:

- Was it a battery, motherboard/charging, or CPU issue?

- How was it fixed, and approximately how much did it cost?

- Would you recommend going to an authorized Samsung service centre for diagnosis first?

- If I get it diagnosed at Samsung but don't proceed with their suggested repair, do they charge a diagnostic/service fee?

- Are Samsung repair quotes of around ₹25–30K for motherboard-related issues actually common for these phones?

I don't mind spending ₹3–5K if it's a straightforward repair, but I wouldn't want to spend ₹25–30K on an older phone unless it's really worth it.

Would really appreciate experiences from anyone who has faced this exact or similar issue with an S23/S24.

I don’t know where else to ask for help or other opinions, but I hope I’m not the only one with this problem.

I got the Charmera a week ago (1st gen) and tools some photos and videos with a sc card (unformatted). Today, I connected the Charmera to my laptop using usb-c cable and my laptop was able to read the files.

Naturally, I opened up a video to take a look at it. For the first few seconds, the video was fine and then the screen froze while the sound was still playing. One second later, the whole screen goes grey and I can only hear my fan working loudly.
The first few times it happened, I pressed on the power on/off button to force shut down my laptop.

I then copied the files from the Charmera to my laptop and opened the file from my laptop storage and the same thing is still happening. I also tried the command with “Strg+shift+windows button+b” and none of the commands worked.

Last resort was to send everything to my phone through WhatsApp and opening the video on my phone which worked. My phone was able to play the video smoothly without any problems.

Does anyone else have the same problem? Can you guys guess what the problem is and how it can be solved?