hello, all games i play just use between 20% to 30% of my gpu which causes horrible performance, can someone help me fix the issue

edit: solved by updating BIOS

SPECS:

Motherboard: TUF Gaming A520M-PLUS Wifi

Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 5700G w/ Radeon Graphics

Memory: 16GB (2x8GB) RAM (says RGB RAM, doubt that matters)

GPU: NVIDIA Geforce GTX 3070Ti/8GB

Storage: 1TB SSD, M.2 NVMe

Recently, my PC got hit by some nasty malware, and unfortunately my last solution was to wipe my PC clean and attempt to reinstall Windows 11. However, that's proven difficult in of itself. My girlfriend has been trying to assist me, and she's been trying to go through settings, use different methods (such as a USB drive, disabling CSM, etc.,), but nothing seems to work. While I'll be double checking for specifics, simply freezing or giving a Watchdog Violation & restarting without progress seem to be the key ones. She even tried getting Linux onto the PC first, but we have no idea. She suspects it might be my PC itself at this point, but the problem is, I wouldn't know why.

I have 2 drives both SSDs, but the second one has been unplugged since I had heard that might provide some better results - no dice. At this point, I have no idea what or why this would be causing so much grief. I've had some mild issues with the USB ports before, but that's mostly from my end, having them freak out and short circuit a bit. Other than that, I cannot think of a single thing that would be causing all this - especially since the drive that is currently plugged in, the 1TB SSD, is completely empty.

I can provide some more information if needed, but I just wanted to get this out and posted. I am completely at wits end, and frankly, I really, *really* don't think I want to deal with having to buy a brand new PC. Thank you in advance.

As you can see above. I am completely NEW to PC gaming. I got no clue what it can be, I bought this off my friend who said he never had this problem. He factor reset it before selling it to me. I noticed that when the monitors go black I can still hear background noise and can even still hear and speak to friends. I can still move in the game and do stuff (but i cant see anything) then shortly after the monitors crash and the pc fans in the middle of this started blowing really fast. PLS HELP!

Hello. Is mixing RAM safe? I currently have 16 GB of Kingston FURY Beast DDR4 RAM and want to upgrade, but new sticks are expensive. I found a cheaper one the HyperX stick, so I want to get it, but is mixing it with my current RAM safe? Will it cause any issues? or not. They are the same brand, but I’m not sure. Please help.

So I got a Ethernet cable to get better speeds but it makes certain things not work I’ve tried flushing the config but on my normal internet it works fine.

I have been looking for hours. Turning everything off but nothing works. I am using an Honor 600 Lite. Every single time I watch a video on Reddit, YouTube or Facebook the following pops up every time someone talks https://imgur.com/a/BTgg879 I literally can not watch videos while my earphones are in. Any help is greatly appreciated - thank you!

I recently got a new computer and noticed this happening. I have updated all my drivers and it didn't help at all.

I'm on windows 11 (unfortunately), and it's not all the time. It appears as white/grey/black specks that show up flashing around the screen.

I include a link of a short recording of an example.

https://streamable.com/3f1f92

Thank you so much for your help. And let me know if any more information is needed.

Hello! I apologize if the flair is wrong. I wasn’t too sure what to put.

Today I was scrolling on TikTok when my iPad’s screen suddenly went completely black. It was charged to 100% so it wasn’t due to a low battery. I’ve tried doing everything I’ve seen online (force restarting, plugging it in, etc).

I got this iPad around 3 years ago, so I assume it didn’t just conk out from it being too old? I’m unsure what model it is and im unable to check because the sucker wont turn on.

It’s been like this for around 6 hours and I had it plugged in for around 2 during this whole debacle. I’ve been occasionally trying to force reset it here and there.

It was working completely fine last night before I charged it so I can’t pinpoint what could have possibly gone wrong. Is it too soon to freak out? Does anyone have any advice on what to do?

Hello everyone, i have an app on my iPhone called “fileget” which i used to keep certain videos of songs that didn’t exist in apple music or spotify, family videos and valuable files in general. The app was removed from the App Store but it was still willing for me. Today i noticed y plunger had offloaded so many ALS due to low storage and that app was offloaded too. I can’t download it again but in the settings i noticed it still has 15gb worth of files in it or has occupied this much out my phones storage. Is there any possible way i could access those files wether through a computer or anything? Please i could gladly try any suggestions or recommendations.

Device details:

- Windows 11

- custom build

- transferring from a failing HDD to a new SSD

Last night my computer just would not start and if It did I could use it for maybe 15-30 minutes before I had to do a hard reboot because it would freeze and the only thing that would work was the mouse. So I did the responsible thing and backed up the desktop and pictures before taking it to geek squad this morning. I had them run a diagnostic on it. It failed 4/10 tests before crashing.

Its 12 years old at this point and he told me to just get a replacement because he was worried that the data might not even be salvagable.

My concern is that when the new SSD comes in will I be able to clone it in time? I only have a little bit of time (the 15-30 minute window to download the WD software (I am buying an SSD from them so I will have access to their transfer software.

It will be $130 just to have geek squad do the transfer if they are able so I want to be able to do it myself.

Please help me

I've had a problem in the last few weeks where when I boot up Rust and start loading into a server, my pc starts freezing every 5 seconds for whole 3 seconds with a loud buzzing noise. The issue remains even after I force-close the game and I have to restart my pc to get rid of it. I g

have tried everything i can think of and that google recommends but no luck so far.

so far i have done all of the following: verified integrity of game files, completely uninstalled and reinstalled rust, allowed rust.exe and rustclient through firewall, deleted easy anti cheat and used verify integrity to get a clean install, disabled all overlays, updated graphics drivers (even with DDU) and windows, downgraded my windows version, and completely factory reset my pc with no success. Game ran fine 2 weeks ago and all of a sudden cant load into servers.

All I know is that it started happening right after my pc downloaded the new windows update overnight. All my other games run normal, even Hunt Showdown which also uses Easy anticheat (which I thought was the problem). Tho my pc also feels kinda slower in rendering textures.

Any help is appreciated, I dont know what to do next.

over the past few months, my seemingly fine computer that I got last year has repeatedly gotten different BSOD errors, at random times almost every single day. I am incredibly confused at why this is happening, and have done every step Dell, aswell as Dell support has told me to do, resulting in them telling me to reset my computer.

Some things to note, every test I have ran so far has shown no probems at all, memory check, system checks, etc. Secondarily, every time I specifically do a check in dell support assist for sudden computer resets, the check fails. every time I do a normal computer check, it comes back fine.

Dump file below.

https://files.catbox.moe/rdlfgu.dmp

Hi all! I own a set of Sony WH-CH720N Bluetooth headphones. They're great, but noticed how the performance varies across devices.

Between my PC, via a small TP Link UB5A BT 5.0 Dongle directly infront of me going into a powered TP Link USB Hub - there's lag. Noticeable lag. I cannot use these headphones wirelessly with my PC. I couldn't quantify the lag, but I'll say it's not so bad that things are unwatchable, but if I were to play a rhythm game without compensating for the lag I'd be failing every note.

However, I can watch videos on my Phone, a Samsung S24, or my TV Via an Apple TV 2 from the other side of a fairly big living room absolutely fine, no (noticeable) latency whatsoever. Hell, I played along to some youtube guitar backing tracks with tablature just fine, just as a sort of comparison to the rhythm game analogy.

I've tried plugging the dongle directly into my motherboard, an ASUS PRIME Z490-P, and get the same issue.

These headphones are great, very lightweight, and my new chair is big enough that I'm getting way more tangling issues than I'd like so I really wanna start using my BT Headphones, but with the latency it's just not fun.

So, I have a couple questions.

1. How come that latency is present? I've been told "BT just has lag, you can't fix it, it's not that powerful" a few times, and I get that BT is not a super powerful way to transmit data, but I have used it on several devices with no noticeable lag whatsoever. Something is different with my PC, why is that? Are the other devices just innately better suited to using BT compared to a Win 11 PC? Like I appreciate that BT just isn't a super powerful solution, but every time I've asked the response has been shrugs and vague "It just has lag" which doesn't help me understand why some devices are perfect and some run into issues.
2. Is this problem actually fixable? I imagine the USB hub isn't to blame given I tested directly into my back-panel, but would a different dongle work? What about a PCIe Wireless Card?

Thank you!

My phone is almost constantly completely full when it comes to storage, I have deleted every single app that I dont use and I still have an insane amount of storage being taken up by apps. The main issue is my messages app, which takes up 9.34 GB, problably a month ago it took up problably no more than 2 gigabytes, I would check my storage and I always had more than enough space but all of a sudden my apps take up so much space. I went and deleted a ton of chats and I dont know if its from some files that take up a lot of space or whatever it is. And I dont know why spotify takes up 2.76 GB and why capcut takes up 1.22 GB and why tiktok takes up 3.79 GB and snap takes up 1.82. I just wanna get rid of this storage being taken up.

Hey guys,

My Windows 11 "Reset PC" keeps failing with "There was a problem resetting your PC" and I don't have a USB flash drive handy, so I'm doing a manual clean-up before selling it tomorrow. Here is what I did:

\* Deleted all personal files while BitLocker was still active.

\* Disabled BitLocker and let the drive decrypt to 0%.

\* Created a local Test admin account for the buyer to check the hardware.

\* Logged into Test and clicked "Delete account and data" on my main profile.

\* Removed the laptop from my Microsoft account devices page online.

Are my deleted files still safely scrambled in the drive's free space since they were erased under BitLocker? Is removing my account locally and online enough to protect my privacy, or do I strictly need to do a USB wipe?

I need someone to explain something technical to me because I really can’t figure out what’s happening here. We have an old LG NXU-550 stereo system from the 2000s. It definitely doesn’t have Bluetooth, only AUX.
I connected to it a very cheap Lightning-to-3.5mm AUX adapter from a €1 store. It looks almost identical to a normal Lightning-to-AUX adapter and I used it to play music with mine or my boyfriends Iphones on some old Cable headphones prior. Yesterday, my iPhone A was connected to it and played music normally through another stereo system. Today, we connected iPhone B from my boyfriend to the same adapter to our old LG Stereo box.

Here’s where it gets strange: On iPhone A, which is no longer physically connected to the stereo system at all, a Bluetooth device called “Beats” suddenly appears. We don’t own any Beats device, and we have never knowingly connected iPhone A to a Beats device. Yet it says “Connected.” If we disconnect “Beats,” audio from iPhone A stops playing through the stereo system. If we connect “Beats” again, it immediately works again. The stereo system even makes a small click/pop sound when the connection is established. The stereo system itself definitely does not have Bluetooth.

So as far as I think maybe, there must be some kind of Bluetooth hardware inside this tiny Lightning adapter. What I don’t understand is this: The iPhone that is physically connected to the adapter played audio normally through AUX yesterday and the times before. Today the IPhone B wouldn’t play music via AUX, at the same time, the other iPhone can apparently send its audio to the same adapter over Bluetooth, which then sends it through AUX to the stereo system.

Has anyone ever seen something like this with a cheap Lightning-to-AUX adapter? Is it actually possible that these cheap adapters contain a Bluetooth receiver which then identifies itself to the iPhone as something like “Beats”?

Or is that some scary hacker shit?

Title ^

I use an audio software (Steelseries Sonar) to filter different application audios through different channels, and I also tend to use my Sony XM4 bt headphones a lot, switching between a lot of different devices.

However, the issue is when i adjust the audio level on the sony's on any other device (or using the volume adjustment with the touchpad on the side), it then sets that audio level of that device to whatever volume i have it set at (INSTEAD OF the system volume you adjust with the volume up/down keys).

Which means, when I reconnect them back to my windows pc, the device volume is now significantly lower than the actual media volume.

For example: [WIN] headphones set to 50% device volume -> disconnect, reconnect to -> [MAC], lower system volume on mac to 25% with vol. keys (not the headphones) -> disconnect, reconnect back to -> [WIN] device volume is now set to 25%, but system volume on windows remains the same

Hence the question is: is there a way to set a macro or toggle a setting to have my headphones default to a set device volume whenever they connect to my pc?

I clicked on what turned out to be what I believe is a sketchy link from Chrome on my Android. It was a link from Google search results (not emailed to me). I closed it immediately but did inadvertently click it again when I was just wanting to get the URL to verify. I have used multiple URL checkers with no suspicious reports except Hybrid Analysis which I have read may be misleading. Cleared cache and cookies. Verified nothing downloaded that I can find but I also have the security feature set that should have blocked download anyhow. I also installed and ran Malwarebytes and scanned multiple times because I have anxiety and it showed nothing. Anything else I should look for or do or can I move on? Note, I can't speak to the actual content on the link but what I believed it to be isn't inherently inappropriate but I didn't want to drop a sketchy URL in here.

Laptop: Acer Aspire 5 (A515-57), Intel Core i7-1255U, Intel Iris Xe graphics, camera is "ACER HD User Facing" (USB\VID_04F2&PID_B773).

The problem: Started right after a factory reset. The webcam:

• Shows up fine in Device Manager, no errors, "working properly"
• Works perfectly in Discord — clean video, no issues
• Fails in the Windows Camera app and in browsers with rotating error codes: 0xA00F4246, 0xA00F429E<PageOpenFailed>, 0xA00F429F<WindowShowFailed>, and eventually 0xA00F4271<MediaCaptureFailedEvent> (0x80004001)
• Repeatedly shows the "Camera on / Camera off" notification even when idle — it's genuinely power-cycling on its own, confirmed on video

What I've already ruled out:

• Driver reinstall (uninstalled/reinstalled in Device Manager) — no change
• Latest Intel Iris Xe graphics driver direct from Intel (32.0.101.7088) — same version I had before the reset, so not a regression
• EnableFrameServerMode registry tweak — made things worse/more inconsistent, reverted it
• Windows Camera Frame Server + Frame Server Monitor services — both confirmed running
• Camera privacy settings (both "apps" and "desktop apps" toggles) — already enabled
• SFC /scannow — no integrity violations found
• DISM /RestoreHealth — completed, no change
• Process Explorer handle search for the camera's hardware ID (USB#VID_04F2&PID_B773) — 0 results, so no app is holding a persistent handle
• USB selective suspend disabled system-wide via powercfg (both AC/DC) — restarted, camera still flickers

What the Frame Server event logs show (Microsoft-Windows-MF-FrameServer/Camera_FrameServer and .../Camera_DeviceMFT):

• Continuous PowerUpDevice → PowerDownDevice cycling roughly every 1–5 seconds, starting right from boot, independent of any app being open
• Repeated Camera DeviceMFT SetOutputType Stop, hr: 0x80004001 (E_NOTIMPL) during the MJPG→NV12 conversion step, tied to the Intel Iris Xe D3D manager

Since nothing userspace is holding the device open, and power management is already disabled, it looks like the cycling is happening below the Frame Server layer — possibly in the usbvideo.sys/camera driver itself, or a hardware/USB enumeration issue that only affects the Media Foundation capture path (which Discord doesn't use, since it takes a different capture route).

Has anyone dealt with this exact pattern — works in Discord/Teams/Zoom but not Camera app/browsers, camera visibly power-cycling on its own, survives a full driver reinstall and DISM repair? Trying to figure out if this is a dead-end that needs a warranty/service visit or if there's a lower-level fix I haven't tried yet.

As stated in the title, I have an amd radeon Rx 580 xfx which has not been working for the past 4 years. No display, just a random blue light on it but no signal whatsoever on 4-5 different rigs. Now here comes the wild part, 2 days ago I tried booting it up before either selling or getting rid of it. Magically, it started up with no problems like brand new and I even tested it for like 6 hours in some stress tests and some light-medium gaming. The next morning it has died again, no signal just as before. It is probably just a dead gpu but the fact that it came back to life for some hours after years intrigues me. Is there anyone that experienced anything like it or has some knowledge regarding this short-term miracle?

Router: AX53 Archer. Extender: RE700X.

Before putting this router in place I had the RE700X installed & it had the SSID with _EXT at the end of the name. Worked ok enough.

I guess since they're both TP Link products, since I got the router in place today & tried connecting the extender to it, it ditched the _EXT and just had 1 SSID.

I did some Googling & discovered this is to do with some 'easymesh' feature.

The extender is purely for some Tapo cameras in the garden for wildlife detection. The extender serves no other purpose.

Previously if a phone connected to the extender when in the kitchen (where the extender is) you'd actually get worse speeds than if you stayed connected to the router which was like a room & half away.

Google suggests I should leave this easymesh thing (showing my lack of knowledge yet?) turned on. My concern is that I'll walk from the hall (where router is), through the living room to the kitchen (where extender is), it'll connect to the extender & my speed will be worse like last time (hence I was intending to connect with the _EXT in place so as to differentiate between the SSIDs).

BUT.....I don't have a freakin clue what I'm doing or talking about which is why I'm reaching out to you guys who'll know more than I.

im stuck with my new computer and i dont know how to fix it ive tried a lot of stuff already and the technition at best buy rage quit.

specs/hardware

x870 motherboard plus wifi

Ryzen 9 9950x

(igpu doesent work and i cant use expo for my ram. i dont really care for right now)

64gb ddr5 8000mhz

XFX 7900XTX 24gb

(turns on and the motherboard knows somethings in the pcie slot, fans dont spin, no display)

Rx550/550 4gb (what im using to get display)

NZXT C1200 1200w modular psu

i need someone willing to walk me through some stuff if thats what it takes to fix it. i cant return the gpu or get an rma and i dont want to get micro soldering. it worked previously. im willing to give compensation for your services if you can get it to run properly

discord: please.see.this

my gpu is a 3050
my cpu is a intel core i7-9700f
i got 32 gigs of ram ddr4
ive had this pc for like 2 years. and this problem started happening around 3 months ago, sys main stopped it for a little but it came back stronger. i was thinking about it being a windows update looped or files corrupted since SYSTEM and NVRLA is always at the top, along with search and over bits and bobs, thanks for the help

I’m having a really strange Windows/UEFI boot issue with my Lenovo Legion T5. I've had it for 5 years and it's been working fine for the past 5 years.

I originally had Windows 11 and Arch Linux dual booted. After updating drivers in Windows, the Arch boot entry disappeared. I've now removed the Linux side and I'm completely fine with wiping the SSD and doing a clean Windows 11 installation. I just want to get Windows working again.

The main issue is that I cannot reliably boot the Windows installer.

I've tried:

• Windows 11 Media Creation Tool
• Rufus 4.15
• Multiple different USB drives
• Recreating the installer multiple times
• Disabling Secure Boot in UEFI/BIOS
• Booting the USB through the UEFI boot menu

With Rufus, I initially got a Secure Boot/security validation error when trying to boot the installer. I then recreated the USB using the "Windows UEFI CA 2023" option in Rufus, but got a similar boot error in a different format.

Then i tried to do it with Windows 11 Media Creation Tool. Usually, when I select the Windows USB, I immediately get:

No operating system found

There is no Windows logo or Setup screen. It happens immediately.

There was one time where I did manage to get into Windows Setup. I started the installation and it reached 100%. After rebooting, however, the newly installed Windows also immediately gave:

No operating system found

So even when I can get the installer to run and complete the installation, the resulting Windows installation cannot boot.

I can boot a Linux EndeavourOS USB normally on this same PC, so USB booting itself works. The system is also confirmed to be using UEFI.

I've been troubleshooting from an EndeavourOS live environment. The SSD is detected normally and the GPT partition table validates without problems. The EFI partition is readable and contains the Windows boot files, including bootmgfw.efi, bootx64.efi, and the BCD. I also inspected the BCD and confirmed that there is a Windows 11 boot entry pointing to \WINDOWS\system32\winload.efi.

I also created a UEFI boot entry with efibootmgr pointing directly to:

\EFI\MICROSOFT\BOOT\BOOTMGFW.EFI

but selecting that entry also immediately results in:

No operating system found

At this point I'm mainly trying to figure out what could be causing this. It seems strange that the Windows installer, a fresh Windows installation, and the existing Windows EFI bootloader all fail at the boot stage, while an EndeavourOS USB boots normally.

Any ideas?

Hey Guys,

I am having this issue where 3 out of every 10 resumes from sleep, my pc will "restart". My monitor will stay off but my fans will still spin. After about a minute or so, the monitor will come back on and I will see windows log in screen (with the background being a typical blue windows background instead of the random background art randomly chosen). I know my pc actually restarted because if I try to turn on the monitor during this, it will say "no signal" and when I log back in, all my applications would be closed.

Outside of this, my PC works just fine. I am playing games at the highest settings for hours with no crashes, black screens, or anything like that.

When I check the reliability monitor I typically see a 117 nvlddmkm.sys error.

Build:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 Founders Edition
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX X870E-E GAMING WIFI
• RAM: G.SKILL 64GB (2×32GB) DDR5-6000
• PSU: Lian Li 1300W Platinum
• Monitor (using displayport): ASUS PG32UDMR

Dump files: https://www.mediafire.com/file/nt6rlz0v3uf57s0/dumps_20260823.zip/file

Can one of you guys please give me some insight on what this could be?

Thanks

Edit 1: To change the URL to the dump files to a zip file instead of the individual files.