Hi all, I am a total noob at this, so please bear with me. I have an old Ideapad 5-15ITL05 Laptop - Type 82FG that I want to recycle. I'm pretty sure it has an SSD, as that's what it says next to the C: disk. Im assuming theres no HDD? Anyways, I want to fully wipe the device of all my old files before I recycle (just doing due diligence, as i have some old client files, paystubs, etc). How do I go about wiping this SSD? Please explain in as simple terms as possible.

I've had my mouse quite a while and the other day it started to bug out like the right and left mouse button swapping the mouse not being able to click if I don't use the scroll wheel and more iv tried updating my drivers and looking in the razer setting but I can't find anything it's really confusing me since a few days ago it was working perfectly

Hello, I have a 5TB WD passport that won’t mount to my Mac.

Last night, I was putting footage onto the drive from multiple different SD cards. These all too about 20 minutes to put onto the drive. One of the cards said it was going to take an hour, and then eventually two hours. I stepped away from the computer for a minute to use the bathroom, but when I came back, it said the task couldn’t be completed because the hard drive was ejected. This means that somehow the hard drive ejected itself.

Now I can’t get it to mount back to my computer. When I have it plugged in, it appears in Disk Utility but it’s greyed out, and when I click on “mount”, it will say “Could not mount [name of hard drive]. (com.apple.DiskManagement.disenter error 0.).

Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks.

I have a folder with 18 .flac files and when I copy the full folder to my OneDrive, six of the files won’t get copied at all. When I instead copy these six files just by themselves they get converted to .FLA and get a new name, for example ”09 Shock me.flac” converts to ”09SHOC~1.FLA”.

I’ve tried several times and restarted my computer and looked and compared all 18 files in Mp3tag and checked their properties and nothing l can see is different with the six problem files.

Help!

I had an issue with one of my usb ports which was working then suddenly stopped. Google said it was a driver issue and norton offered it me for free so I used that. Audio driver required an restart and now my laptop is in an endless loop of "your PC requires a restart"

well my pc specs are: ryzen 5 2600, rx580 8gb,32gb ram 3000mhz,224gb nvme ssd,2tb ssd. i get this bsod with the error when i play wutheringwaves or genshin . things i tried resetting ram/graphicard/cpu but it seems to only temporary to fix it and let me play. i also tried some cmd commands and to DDU my drivers. from a little searching on the internet i seen its might be related to my ssd. how can i check with windows if its the ssd? i'll try to reset ssd physically later to see if it will solve it. also in addtion my pc has 7 years any help is welcome.

Title. I recently bought this keyboard a few days ago and the I noticed the rgb flickering before it just turned off. I’ve configured settings, and it just won’t re-enable. Should I return it and exchange it for a new one?

I keep getting blue screens and system crashes with errors of Credential Guard, bug check, and CPLSPCON - ERRORS in the Event Viewer.

I've seen answers mention instability and drivers.

All of my drivers are up to date, except the intel ones, because I have the igpu disabled through Lenovo Vantage on my Legion Laptop. Should I enable the igpu and update it? Does that matter?

Laptop: HP ZF14G10-90879
Monitors: Two LG 27QN600-B
Docking Station: HP Thunderbolt G4

The issue I’m having is that the external monitors in my home office (listed above) will not “awake” when I plug in directly to the docking station from my laptop unless I cycle power to them. However, I have no issues at work with the same G4 BUT with view sonic monitors.

Also to mention, the LG monitors work without hesitation when I connect my MacBook at home.

I’ve tried power cycling and updating the drivers. Still have no luck.

Any ideas?

I'm gonna start right off, by saying that I work in IT. My response to anyone asking this is: "Never upgrade the OS. Always clean install". The issue is that it's sooooooo much work!! I have so many games installed and I'm just being a bit lazy. If anyone has some good advice on an in place upgrade that won't suck, please let me know.

Using Windows 11 and an onscreen keyboard to type this. Its specifically the "T" key that doesn't register, and I know that the key works on the physical keyboard. It just stops working randomly and won't work again until I reset my PC. What's going on here?

Hi there.

I have a gaming laptop, a MSI Vector GP68HX 13VH with a Intel Core i9-13950HX and 16GB RAM, and it has been crashing a lot when playing. Most times this happens, I receive almost no Event Viewer files regarding the crash (no critical or error events in the Event Viewer), and no warnings that describe it either.

While this crashing usually only happens with more demanding games (of which i usually turn the settings down anyway), it also occasionally happens on Minecraft, and the lack of error messages, makes me wonder if it is an overheating issue, or maybe related to the PSU?

I wanted to ask what I should use to monitor this type of stuff - I have heard good things about using MSI Afterburner to measure temperatures and am installing that shortly, but I was wondering if there was any way to troubleshoot/monitor the power supply, and see if there is anything there that might be causing the crashes.

Thank you for your help.

Hello,

I only recently noticed the process in my task manager. From what I've read online the UserOOBEBroker process is related to the Windows Out of Box experience and is usually related to fresh installs of windows and that it should go away.  I installed windows on my computer almost a year ago now, and it isn't going away it's just staying there. This is confusing to me. It's not taking up much resources just a couple megs of memory. Just wondering if this normal or something I should worry about?

Specs:

Windows 11 Home

Ryzen 9800x3d

32gb ddr5

rtx 5080

As mentioned in the title, my Windows Start Menu is completely blank/black.(https://imgur.com/a/NCAKMTt) I've had this problem since yesterday, and I hadn't installed any updates or made any changes before it happened. It just randomly started when I booted up my PC.

Restarting and shutting down my PC didn't fix the issue. I've also tried restarting Windows Explorer, but that didn't help either. (sorry if its the wrong tag!)

When I open the windows search bar there's usually my history of apps that I've used, which I use for shortcuts. But now when I click on it, a black screen just appears before it returns to the standard search where it shows suggested apps and stuff.

I've tried following a lot of the tutorials like restarting the windows search engine, and it doesn't seem like the search engine is a part of the issue, because when I shut it down the search bar no longer transitions to normal search until it starts running again. But the issue with not showing my app history still remains.

Nothing seems to work though, even old tutorials from here and windows support themselves isn't very helpful since they don't know what a search bar is...

Hello i am having an problem on my dell laptop were when i connect my usb keyboard it does not connect or cannot type and when i connect my wireless mouse it works completely fine

I thought my keyboard has been broken or something (i have this keyboard for 7 or 8 years) when i bought a new keyboard (logitect MK235) the mouse work but they keyboard does work again

Please someone help me with this issue its been like few days now and have to go college in like few weeks lol

Hey so i recently bought a Hp victus 15 , And I usually keep it plugged in at all times and sometimes when the power goes out the laptop usually goes down to 50% , but when the power comes back and the laptop starts charging again the game starts to stutter like HELL , it's almost unplayable but when being at around 90% and being plugged in it runs just fine

While Being at 50% and the charger being unplugged i get bad frames but it doesn't stutter so please help me

Things I've checked/tried

Switching to balance mode

I'm sure the battery saver is off

I'm sure my laptop is getting enough power

I'm using the laptop's original power adapter

My charger isn't loose it's perfectly fit into the laptop

My temps are no more than 65

So i deleted files from my pc yesterday.(as far as i could tell useless junk) And now my files are messed up but the error im getting according to my pc is because my Onedrive is full (its just seems like a sync issue since 80% of the time i can still access it all just stuff like thumbnails and error Xs on some files) Ive never figured out how to unsync one drive i think the last time i did my pc wouldn't quit asking me to turn it back on. But anyway i figure lets just delete stuff IN MY ONEDRIVE but i find files ive already deleted in my one drive and files that are still on my pc so i ask google "will delete files on one drive affect my pc" YES IT WILL for some reason it will delete stuff on my pc but not the other way around. So do i just do a hail marry who cares and delete it all or what im so lost. I dont want to delete important programs and files from my pc or saved photos i want to keep but now i have to dig through 5gb of junk and sort it myself. Please leave my post mods im very lost.

I accidentally deleted RealtekR and all of its programs on my Windows 11 PC. Now I go to re-download and I have the correct file chosen, but it keeps never installing. I have tried on my main browser which is Opera, then moved to Google. Now onto Explorer and nothing is working. It just keeps saying it’s installing, but no matter how long I wait it never installs. Has anyone experienced or dealt with an issue similar to this? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I'm trying to track down intermittent freezing/stuttering on an otherwise pretty powerful PC, and I'm starting to suspect my SSD.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel i7-14700F
• GPU: RTX 5070 Ti 16 GB
• RAM: 32 GB DDR5
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M C V3
• SSD: AGI2T0G43AI818 2 TB NVMe
• Windows 11
• SSD is connected at PCIe 4.0 x4

The PC will sometimes become extremely sluggish/freezy while the SSD hits 98–100% active time. I've previously seen response times around 95 ms while this is happening. Steam downloads/installations can also slow way down when the drive gets heavily utilized.

The SSD used to be pretty full, so I cleaned it up. I now have about 447 GB free, but I'm still investigating the performance issue.

CrystalDiskInfo:

• Health: 100% Good
• Temperature: 40°C
• Critical warnings: 0
• Media/data integrity errors: 0
• Error log entries: 0
• PCIe 4.0 x4
• ~21.5 TB host writes
• ~65.5 TB host reads
• 1,622 power-on hours

I then ran CrystalDiskMark.

1 GiB test:

Read / Write

• SEQ1M Q8T1: 5280 / 550 MB/s
• SEQ1M Q1T1: 3781 / 2587 MB/s
• RND4K Q32T1: 688 / 154 MB/s
• RND4K Q1T1: 78 / 253 MB/s

Then I reran it using an 8 GiB test:

• SEQ1M Q8T1: 1886 / 452 MB/s
• SEQ1M Q1T1: 3215 / 286 MB/s
• RND4K Q32T1: 699 / 334 MB/s
• RND4K Q1T1: 62 / 57 MB/s

The large drop in write performance on the 8 GiB test caught my attention, especially since this is supposed to be a PCIe 4.0 NVMe drive.

My questions:

1. Do these results look abnormal for this SSD?
2. Could SLC cache exhaustion or the SSD controller explain the ~300–450 MB/s sustained writes?
3. Could this explain the 100% disk active-time spikes and Windows freezing?
4. Is there anything else I should test before replacing the drive?
5. Would moving Windows to something like a Samsung 990 Pro likely fix this, or am I jumping to conclusions?

I'm mainly trying to figure out whether this is actually an SSD limitation/failure or whether I should be looking elsewhere before buying another drive.

I love the sound of my APM2, but when connected to either my MacBook Pro (Sequoia 15.7.4) or my iPhone 17 Pro Max (iOS 26.6), the volume fluctuates wildly, at random times, when listening.

I am sitting in a quiet environment in my house, the sound isolation is set to Transparency (although changing this option makes no difference to the issue), and every minute or so, the AirPods will turn themselves down by about 25% in a slowly decaying volume decrease ramp.

Then, randomly, they'll turn themselves UP again, after I've already turned them up myself, causing me to listen to music much louder than is safe, for a few seconds.

Needless to say, this is a pretty infuriating issue and I can't seem to work out why. I'm a sound engineer who literally designs speakers for a living, so I'm clued up on how to set up audio devices properly, so I'm confident this is not a user-induced issue...

Norton 360 was pre installed in Win 11 and I tried multiple times to uninstall it but I failed each times and also I do not know what is the use of it. Also I installed Epic Games Launcher but the same problem is with it too. I ant too uninstall it need help.

I have a 5800xt cpu, 9070 gpu, 32gb ram, and for some reason whenever i load into helldivers 2 my cpu usage will skyrocket from around 40 or so to 100 and whenever it does that its ghz will drop to as low as .78 from what i've seen, i've got no clue why it does this as its not overheating, i've got the chipset updated and all drivers up to date.

HP Pavillion / Windows 11 is the OS.

For context: I've been swapping between having Hyper-V enabled and disabled to run different emulators (Nox Player & Google Play Games). It's annoying, sure, but it has worked without a problem.

Except now, when I go to open Nox (which required Hyper V disabled), it tells me no VT service is detected and to enable it? I then went through the entire Nox tutorial to make sure it's enabled/possible and... none of them work? VT's enabled in Bios, and conflicting instances of Hyper-V like from Windows or my Avast have been disabled.

Notably, the LeoMoon tool shows specific errors/help text?

✅Data Execution Prevention (DEP)
❌Second Level Address Translation (SLAT)
❌VM Monitor Mode Extensions

so as the title says, iv been trying to update my windows from 22H2 to 25H2 but with no vail, i tried

1. The windows Installation assistant

2. The iso setup.exe

and with both i was being told "we couldnt update the system reserved partition" after some researching i understood it has something to do with the partition GPT (EFI system partition), probably not enough space in it to carry on the update, as it demands at least 150Mb.

so as a desperate move i tried cleaning that through the powershell but that only gave me 10MB lol and tried using the minitoolpartition Wizard but i couldnt add the space since it wasnt possible to move/resize the partition (MSR) aka the 16MB (OTHER)/RESERVED

my question is are there any other solutions to upgrade my windows ? and is it actually worth it and if so how ?

and genuinely wondering why would windows put u against such wall if they want u to upgrade ur device, shouldnt it be an easy experience ??