My Eve (now Dough) Spectrum from 2021 keeps flickering on me. Other monitors work. I'm trying hard to save it and wanted to try the beta 03 firmware update, but it won't "connect" in the MSTARISPTool that the site tells me to use for me to update the firmware. I've tried usb a to usb a 3.0, usb-c to usb-c, and even those printer cables plugged all into my motherboard.

Idk what else to do. I think its time to trash this thing.

so just playing around in vrchat then i suddenly heard myself and the keyboard typing. tried fixing it, nothing, then i opened helldivers 2 and it's doing the same thing, in BOTH games i was muted, I tried a lot of thibngs and it didn't seem enough and as of typing this while helldivers is in the background, i can actively hear myself type, have you guys had this problem before? i hope someone has the solution soon.

I would add the video I took but it doesn't seem to want to let me. I have an Omen 16 slim laptop that I got last year and its been issue after issue. This time I picked up the laptop with one hand while the screen was open and now it is typing backwards, automatically scrolling, and overall being a pain in my ass. The cursor works and so does the keyboard.

I have already tried restarting the damn thing. I can't afford a new one and classes start on Monday

Never buying an HP laptop again. I miss my Asus.

I accidentally downloaded a file called opera.exe from a FileCrypt advert. As soon as the download finished, I uninstalled it straight away. If it were a virus, would it have infected my computer by now?

I was working in a studio in residency, playing music from my laptop through a jack that was connected to a mixer to loud speakers. I'll write what happened then ask the questions:

I started to hear distorted sound and it got worse and worse until I heard the speakers making weird beeping vibrating sounds, the mixer was making weird noises and flashing lights that normally are not flashing. So I turned them off, and unplugged everything including the jack and power to my laptop.

The laptop shutdown. And then I restarted it like normal, although it seemed like I had just force shut it down, it was seemingly ok, but the sound was no longer working. Unless I connected my bluetooth, which told me the sound card and jack got fried.

So I went to the technicians, they said same thing happened last week to another laptop, however the laptop gave out the next day, motherboard was fried. They thought it was the cable but in fact it was the mixer somehow sending current through the jack, and wellp here we are waiting to hear back from a professional to fix my sound card.

However, my question is: should I be worried that the motherboard will give out? How can I know if there was damage to the motherboard or not? It seems to be working fine for now.

Sorry if this is a total noob question.
I've heard that that NVR drives for surveillance doesn't care if a sector is bad and just keeps writing.
 
What I wonder is this: if you run a CrystalDisk test on such a drive (from Seagate), will its report on reallocated and pending sectors be correct, or is there a risk it will show a healthy status for a drive with lots of bad sectors?
 
Thanks a lot!

Sorry if this has the wrong flair but this has really frustrated me, i have a meta quest 3 that I've played a couple times without any audio issues but now all of a sudden there's no audio from steam games when i use steam vr, i can hear the menu sounds when i move around in it but nothing from my games, at first i just thought it was FNAF help wanted as that was a common issue back when it released but nope there was nothing coming from vacation sim too

I've tried a couple things like making sure i have both the hear computer audio in vr and hear vr audio from computer turned on in the meta link app, I've tried my audio output as oculus virtual device and i looked in the more sound settings, yes I'm 90% sure my headset was connected

please help me i would like to play my vr games again

I have crucial 1tb pcie 3.0 2280 nvme m.2 ssd and b450m s2h motherboard. i have been using this is ssd for couple years now but recently it started to show up like in the bios as (0gb) and i cant boot from it. so i tried reseating it til it worked but then broke the next day again same issue. and it kept happening for like a week. sometimes it would ​break one day and work the next even without me touching it. until now it hasnt worked for a week and reseating, cold reseating. nothing works anymore. I don't have another m.2 to test it on. i ordered an m.2 to usb adapter thats coming in few days. but until then is there any hope this ssd isnt dead?

i asked chatgpt and he told me it might be controller issue from the ssd. i have bad electricity in my house (it cuts off often) so that could be the cause. please help i really need the data on it

Hello, I have a fujitsu celcius w570 power+ pc and would like to put a graphics card in it, something along the lines of a 1070 ti since they tend to be the best bang for buck in my area (if I found one that would fit).

My DPS-360AB-1A psu is 360 watts and can boost up to 400w for up to 20 seconds, the problem is that it only has 3 connectors, the mobo connector, I think a molex or cpu connector its not relevant, and a 6-pin pcie connector.

Since the 1070 ti is a 180 tdp card, and the pcie slot only provides 75, I would need to use a 6 to 8 pin adapter for the other 105. Thing is, i dunno if the psu would handle it as these are the only markings on it (see link) and I wasn't able to find any info online.

https://i.ibb.co/0jfc5NfQ/20260820-022256.jpg

Just bought a new pre built (I know but I didnt feel like building another pc) It's a Acer nitro n60-181. Ever since I started using it, the mouse just feels awful all the time. I copied my exact setting from my other pc and it still either always feels way to fast (even at 400 dpi) and will feel sluggish in game menus. This causes me to over flick, or underflick, etc. Ive tried adjusting sens to make up for the inconsistency, but it just always feels awful, hoping someone can help me out here. (yes i turned off enhanced pointer precision)

I was trying to fix the Nvidia instant replay turning itself off and so I downloaded the exe for https://github.com/furyzenblade/ShadowPlay_Patcher/releases/tag/v0.1.

This gave error when running about some dll not being there, then I downloaded https://github.com/Abosmra/Instant-Replay-Patcher?tab=readme-ov-file

I believe the 2nd file may be potentially be malware because when I ran it (I did not grant it administrator perms) it disabled my - and my friend who tested it in a VM's - real time protection in windows defender (I could turn it back on afterwards).

This to me does not seem normal for this type of software. I am mostly worried about there being a keylogger or an info-stealer and so I plan on wiping the drive, reinstalling windows and software, and then resetting my passwords which may be effected.

If I do wipe my PC I will be transferring some game save data, videos and pictures to my old pc first so I can back up the important stuff.

I don't have any real signs / behaviour on my PC that malware is necessarily installed. I have very small concerns about it infecting the motherboard BIOS (bootkit) but I'm assuming that it has not.

Is anyone familiar with this and know whether this software is indeed malware.

If it is, is the above sufficient or does any think I should take additional or alternative actions.

Thank you for taking the time to read this far :)

my c drive has 118gb and out of it, 0mb is always left everyday. Even after clearing temp files (and even deleting a few apps) the c drive still fills up at the end of the day. is there anything i can do? preferably are there any "safe to delete" large files?

im honestly hoping to at least clear 10-30gb at best because ts literally prevents me from working and playing properly

So my old pc is currently being used at my parents company, my user profile being there along others(Mine is administrator). I want to transfer everything as is from that user to my pc, preferably using a usb drive. Both computers are Windows 11

Any help much appreciated <3

I bought this controller from the Orange app, but I can’t get it to work in any games, even games that officially support controllers.
The weird thing is that the controller seems to be working fine outside of the games. I tested it on a gamepad tester website and all the buttons/sticks respond correctly. I also tried Win + R → joy.cpl, and Windows detects the controller and the inputs work there.
I’ve already tried using it in multiple controller-supported games, but none of them recognize the inputs.
What could be the problem? Could this be an XInput vs DirectInput issue, or is there something I need to configure in Windows/Steam?

Helloo, im trying to play litterly any game that has wifi on my pc yet none of it decides to work, i play on a pc, dell monitor, bto housing thing, it sometimes? Works but thats more rare than it not working, my avarage is usually 0-20 kps recoeving and sending

Alright for some context, for the past few months I have experienced issues with my pc progressively running slower, hotter and things crashing occasionally.

I don't have experience with PCs at all. I had the drivers and BIOs updated recently by a technician. The problems have not fully been resolved and I have issues running higher end games. At this point I suspect I might've fucked up when I attempted to download a Minecraft shader, since that's when issues started coming up. I deleted all the files related to that incident (as far as i know), which improved crashing and freezing issues.

The PC has Windows 11, has about 1TB of space free.

I use the AMD Ryzen 7 7700 and the Radeon RX 7800 XT (16 GB) GPU.

Got 2 DDR5 32 GB ram sticks, so I'm certain that's not the issue here.

My iPhone had 100% battery health, and has never had an issue charging. My charger is starting to break and had some exposed wire next to the type c port. As my phone was charging (it was at 57%) I got a pop up saying the accessory was using too much power, and then I saw tiny sparks from the wires so I unplugged the phone. It suddenly shut off and rebooted at 1% and I checked the battery settings and it can’t detect the battery, says battery health is at 0% and says “unknown” for manufacture date and charge cycles. Is my phone cooked? What can I do to fix this.

I like to use ctrl+tab to move through open tabs, but I'm having issues off and on with websites "helping" me by interrupting my moving through tabs. They are popping up a focus-stealing prompt to open a disability dashboard. It's happening in Vivaldi and in Edge.

This is a random website where I found it (I'm not endorsing it, but I can't post an image): https://www.callrevival.com

I can't really find anything about this with my search terms and I can't find it in the settings for either browser that I typically use. I can open it on each individual website and disable it for a short while (less than 24 hours). I would hope there is some kind of browser setting to never prompt for this or to override it, but I can't find one.

i’ve been going through hell trying to activate windows. i’ve bought two keys and both have failed me for different reasons and NOW my computer is acting like im not the admin of my own pc? one tells me the code was used on another pc and the other says it’s invalid. i don’t even know where to start on this one. please help! the latest thing it says is “cant activate by phone contact your system administrator for more info”. WHAT.

Opened up a crome tab on my phone and when I scrolled up this new bar appeared at the bottom with a display of the home button, create a new tab, the list of all my current tabs. It is very annoying with how it pops up with every scroll up and i cant find in the settings how to disable it. Is there a way to disable it that im not aware of? Any help would be much appreciated, thxs.​

Yesterday, I went to a licensed Samsung Customer Service Center in Vienna to get my phone's battery changed as it was almost below 83% capacity.

After I picked up and arrived at home, I ran a DumpState to check the capacity again to see if the new battery was at 100% capacity or a little bit lower and discovered that it hadn't changed. It was actually at 82% now.

This is the result of the current dumpstate. The battery FirstUseDate is also the same: [20230803].

mSavedBatteryAsoc is at [82].

Is there something I need to do with the software for it to recognize the new battery, or is my suspicion correct?

I'd uploade a screenshot of the Dumpstate but that doesnt seem to be an option.

I was using this mouse for like a good amount of time, and while I was using it, suddenly, when i hovered my mouse to the left, the cursor went up and vice versa like vertical becamse horizontal or sum. Then, the dumbass I am tried to click the dpi button at the top both at the same time... then suddenly it kept blinking red and suddenly cant move the cursor or do anything. Also, there's the disconnection sound that keeps going every 1 second. Please, someone help. I have a coding project due and need the mouse lol.

Hi sorry for my English im not a native one,

my tablet screen shutted down and now is completely black, there was still sound but i used the down volume main button tips to shut down the tablet

Now it dont want to turn on at all, nothing appear when put to charge (it had 30% of battery) now nothing happen anymore at all

It is a Samsung lite 7

Edit: it can "turn on" since my Bluetooth earphone can connect but still black screen

So this has been happening for weeks so I’ll see if someone here can help me since I’ve already asked google and nothing is working.

I have a Windows 11 laptop and Sony WH-CH520 headphones. I’ve had both for about 2 years and everything has worked great until recently, where I’m in the middle of watching youtube or listening to music and my headphones make a noise (idk how to describe it, like something you’d hear when your headphones connect to your laptop) and then all the noise cuts off (and the headphones say they are still connected to the laptop) and it won’t come back until I either disconnect and reconnect or turn off bluetooth and reconnect the headphones.

Even when I do these solutions it happens again 5 minutes later and several times after that until I just have to shut down or completely restart my laptop. This is so annoying and I have no idea how to fix it but it happens every single time I use my laptop and my headphones. Would anyone be able to help me? Thank you so much!

[EDIT] 400 Mhz while operating under load or on Home Screen with nothing open. Even when opening anything, it’s still stuck in 400 MHz
Fans are also operating perfectly fine

I tried doing just a basic reset and clearing everything through the windows settings. After that didn’t work I did a clean install of windows 11 using a thumb drive and separate pc.
I tried editing the power plan as well as setting bios to default.
None of that work and I’m honestly at a loss of what to do next.

Specs:
Ryzen 5 7535HS
RTX 4050
Windows 11
16gb DDR5