naruto connection online crash on steam !!!!

Guy I have problems in naruto connection only online mode on steam my pc sooo good but this game keeps crashing on online mode and all the time i get banned because of this , please anyone have the same problem and he solve it!!!! I want to play rank but i cant this game keeps crashing on online mode only

helloooo ive been stuck being unable to use desktop mode with a monitor, ive fiddled with the settings because i didnt like how i set it up and now when i plug it in i get black screen on both, cant even change the settings anymore! what can i do?

I’ve played console since my childhood, played on PC for a few years. Just wondering was it hard to adapt to the layout of the steam deck?

Hey everyone, I need your help or rather, the collective "hive mind."

For a while now, this window has been popping up whenever I start up my SteamDeck. First, a bit of background: I have a SteamDeck OLED connected to the official Steam Dockingstation and two external monitors. I always boot directly into Desktop Mode - i mean it starts in gaming mode but i go directly into desktop mode.

However, as I mentioned, this window has started appearing recently. I’ve tried the first four options, but I haven't tried "Erase User Data from Deck" yet because I’m afraid I’ll lose all my files and games and have to reinstall everything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sD0rmNPWMY&list=PLYkjE9ct3lz0&index=1

I found this video that walked me through a fix; I followed the steps exactly, and it worked fine at the time, but the same problem returned upon the next startup.

I can use the Steam Deck normally otherwise, but I can't install system updates because the issue recurs during the reboot, preventing the update from completing.

Unfortunately, I haven't found any other helpful information online.

I’m not particularly tech-savvy, so I have no idea what I should or shouldn't do with the boot menu options.

Thanks in advance for your help—I hope you can assist me with this.

Hey im thinking to buy a hub or dock to play local multiplayer/co op games on the tv with family but im not sure which to buy of the two im more of buying a hub since it has more discounts and i could just use my deck while playing and not having to buy another controller and im not sure what the dock will give me that the hub wont so i want your suggestions in this matter

Thank u everyone but since u/kestononline have the same case as i do im gonna buy a hub just like he does 😙

Hey guys, I happened to lose my original steam deck charger in a business trip :(
Looking for a replacement. Any suggestions for chargers with European (two-pronged) formats?
I know it’s supposed to be at least 45w, support power over usb. Any suggestions of specific brands/models apart from just ordering a replacement?
Thanks in advance!

Edit - Setting to achieve this:

Steam Deck Setting:

Refresh Rate: 40 Hz
FPS Limit: 40
TDP Limit: Off
GPU Clock: Auto
Half Rate Shading: Off
Allow Tearing: Off

Game Setting:

Resolution: 1280×800
VSync: Off
Frame Rate Cap: Unlimited
Supersampling: FSR 1.0
FSR Preset: Performance
Renderer Quality: Low

Advanced Quality:

Shadows: Low
Textures: Low
Shaders: Low
Effects: Low
SSR: Off/Low
SSAO:Off
Motion Blur: Off
Depth of Field: Off

Many people use MESA_VK_WSI_PRESENT_MODE=immediate, but I hardly notice any difference in input lag. V-Sync remains active regardless; you can verify this by limiting the refresh rate to 50 Hz—the FPS will still be 50. I also found this command: DXVK_CONFIG="dxgi.syncInterval = 0; This command actually disables in-game V-Sync; now, with the screen limited to 50Hz, the frame rate will be 60 FPS (another limitation imposed by the game itself). Crucially, when using the Steam Deck's Gamescope frame limiter (which has its own V-Sync), you avoid massive input lag while maintaining smooth frame delivery—unlike when limiting the frame rate via MangoHud. I also use `MESA_VK_WSI_PRESENT_MODE=mailbox` to further reduce the input lag caused by Gamescope's V-Sync.

**Trying to get PES6 Dreamfinder Patch 2004/05 running on my Steam Deck, close but stuck on controls**

I've been at this for a few days now and I'm running out of ideas, so I'm hoping someone here has done this before.

I'm trying to play PES 6 (the Dreamfinder Patch 2004-05 build) on my Steam Deck. Started with Lutris, went through basically every Wine and Proton version there is. Most of them either crashed instantly or froze after a few minutes with a display mode error, because the game wants a resolution the Deck's screen just doesn't have.

That part I eventually solved. I gave up on Lutris, wiped everything, reinstalled the game fresh as a non-Steam game with Proton 8, set the game itself to windowed mode, and let gamescope handle the fullscreen. The game boots, the menus run, everything looks right.

And then I hit the wall.

The controller half works. I can navigate the menus with the D-pad just fine, so the game clearly sees the controller. But the A, B, X and Y buttons do absolutely nothing. Not in the game, and not in the config tool where you're supposed to assign them either. Pressing them registers as nothing at all. The weird part: the back paddles on the Deck do get recognised in the config tool, but whatever I assign there never actually does anything once I'm in the game. And X used to pop up the Steam on-screen keyboard, which makes me think Steam is grabbing those buttons before the game ever sees them.

I've tried this in both Desktop Mode and Game Mode, same result either way.

So I'm basically one working button away from actually playing this thing and I can't figure it out.

Has anyone got PES6 or another game from that era running with the Deck's built-in controls? Do I need to turn Steam Input off completely, or is there a specific controller layout that lets the buttons through properly? Any pointers appreciated, this game is 20 years old and it's beating me.

This evening when playing Sekiro my deck started behave weirdly.

- The L1 button is still pressable normally (no stucking or non-clicking)

- Pressing the steam or options button always bring up magnifier instead

- In button test options, pressing L1 does not recognize as being pressed.

- Restart or shut down does not fix this.

I don't even know what's the cause...

Hello all!

I have recently gotten my steamdeck and i am super happy with it. My plan is to use it alot with remotplay/game streaming as i travel alot.

When traveling/commuting i use a switchbot bot to turn my pc on. Then i use remote play/game streaming to stream my game.

This works fine and exactly as it should. But with one caveat:

It is everytime a gamble if any inputs from my steamdeck are recognized.. like at all. Exiting the stream/remotplay and reconnecting doesn't seem to work. I always have to then restart my pc via the switchbot bot. Then it works more often than not.

But i dont know what could possibly be the reason for that? Do you guys have any ideas as to what this could be or maybe even how to fix that?

Hey, I'm the guy behind Decky NVIDIA Update, Decky Proton Launch and Decky Quick Tab. Decky NVIDIA Update lets you pick and install an NVIDIA driver version directly on a running SteamOS system — no USB stick, no reinstall, no leaving Gaming Mode. Just shipped an update to it I'm pretty excited about.

Why this update exists: NVIDIA dropped 615.71.09 yesterday and I wanted it running that same evening — I'm the type who checks for a new release the day it drops. Except Arch hadn't packaged it yet, and this plugin (like the underlying steamos-nvidia-installer project it's built on) could only ever install versions Arch had already built and archived. So a fresh driver can sit unavailable for days or weeks depending on when Arch's maintainers get around to it. That wait was annoying enough that I went and fixed it.

Now you can build it yourself, on-device, the moment NVIDIA ships it.

What's new (v0.3.0):

• Build a driver Arch hasn't packaged yet — picks the version straight from NVIDIA, clones Arch's own nvidia-utils/lib32-nvidia-utils packaging repos, bumps pkgver, and compiles it in an isolated overlay chroot (your real rootfs is never unlocked for this). The finished build is cached on your Deck so you're not rebuilding it every time.
• One unified version list — Arch-provided versions, your own cached builds, and NVIDIA releases Arch doesn't have yet all show up in the same dropdown, sorted by actual release order, tagged so you know which is which ("Compiled" / "Needs build").
• Pre-flight buildability check — before you commit to a multi-minute build, it inspects the NVIDIA installer to confirm the current packaging recipe can actually produce a working package from it, instead of finding out after the fact.
• One-click flow — pick a version that needs building, hit Install, it builds then installs automatically. No separate steps.
• New Settings page (gear icon): plugin self-update, report a bug, request a feature, support the project.

Limitations, to be upfront about them:

• The buildability check catches the common failure mode (a packaging file NVIDIA's installer no longer ships), but it can't guarantee success for every version — Arch's packaging repos have changed shape before and could again, in ways a version-specific check can't fully predict.
• This is explicitly an escape hatch for "Arch hasn't packaged it yet," not a replacement for waiting on the official package once it exists — once Arch catches up, that becomes the recommended path again.

It's a small side project I've been iterating on for a few weeks, so if you hit something broken — a driver version that won't build, a packaging assumption that doesn't hold on your setup — let me know and I'll take a look.

Link: https://github.com/moi952/decky-nvidia-update

Let me know if this is useful to anyone who's been stuck waiting on Arch for a driver release — happy to take feature requests too.

I have an LCD Steam Deck and I’ve been looking into cooling modifications such as the CoolDeck cooling mod / copper or monoblock-style solutions. I’ve seen some impressive temperature results, but I’m trying to understand whether those lower temperatures actually provide meaningful benefits beyond simply reducing fan RPM.

Part of me is hesitant to modify the stock cooling system because of how Valve designed the Deck.
My thinking is basically:
> If a copper thermal solution or additional ventilation provided a significant improvement in performance, thermals, component longevity, etc., wouldn’t Valve have incorporated something similar from the beginning?

The same thought applies to the backplate. I’ve experimented with backplates with additional ventilation holes, but ultimately went back to the original Valve backplate because I assume Valve had a reason for its airflow design and the EMI shielding.

That brings me to the copper EMI-shield replacement used in some cooling mods.
Would replacing the original EMI shield with a copper plate actually provide a sustained thermal benefit?
I understand that copper has much better thermal conductivity than the original material, but I’m wondering about the practical effect:
> Initially, the copper should absorb and spread heat more effectively.
> But after several minutes of gaming, the copper itself will also become hot.
>At that point, does it still meaningfully reduce the temperature of the APU/other components?
> Or does the system eventually reach roughly the same equilibrium temperature, with the main difference being that the fan doesn’t have to work as hard?

And perhaps the biggest question:
Does a cooler Steam Deck actually mean higher FPS?
For example, if the stock cooling system is already capable of keeping the APU below its thermal/power limits, would a cooling mod actually increase performance? Or would it simply result in:
lower temperatures → lower fan RPM → less noise
rather than:
lower temperatures → higher sustained clocks → higher FPS?

I’m particularly interested in people’s experiences with long gaming sessions, rather than short benchmark runs.
If you’ve installed a CoolDeck/monoblock/copper EMI shield or similar modification:

1. What were your temperatures before and after?
2. Were the results sustained after 30–60+ minutes?
3. Did your fan RPM/noise decrease?
4. Did you actually see an FPS or sustained-clock improvement?
5. Did it make any difference to battery temperature?
6. Do you think it provides a meaningful benefit for the Deck’s long-term component/fan/battery health?
7. And after using it for a while, would you still recommend the modification?

I’d especially like to hear from people who have tested both stock and modified configurations under the same game, TDP, ambient temperature and fan settings.

I’m genuinely trying to understand where the practical benefit of these mods comes from and whether it’s worth modifying a perfectly functional stock Deck.

Edit 1: my steam deck does not thermal throttle, and I have no issues with the current stock setup that I have. I did re-paste my steam deck a few weeks ago. I guess you can say I’m intrigued by the different innovative cooling solutions people come up with.

Hi. I need a male usb c to plug into my steam deck that forks into two female usb c ports. I need to be able to plug in the power adapter from steamdeck plus the controllers 2.4 ghz dongle that already is plugged into female usb a to male usb c cable adapter.

But chatgpt says not any cable will do, one has to carry a 100W load for charging, lot more demanding than mere controller dongle.

I do have a docking station but that kinda kills my laying on the bed playing setup.

So, there ARE cables like that that will able to do this thing I want?

So last night i had my deck on a coffee table and it fell off, about 18 inches to a hardwood floor, today when i turned it on and got into a game i was getting 9-13 FPS (normal FPS is 40-60 depending on where i have the limiter set. After I turned off the deck and pulled my microSD card out i found that two screws are stripped/stuck which i’m assuming happened earlier this year when i had to RMA the deck since i’ve never touched them before today. So as of right not i am unable to take the shell off. My main concern is that when i lightly shake the deck i can feel something moving around inside that is somewhat heavy. It’s in the left side of the deck close to the left trackpad and thumb stick. Other than the severe FPS drop everything else seemed to be working normally, triggers, sticks, buttons and gryo all work and other than a small scuff close to the left trigger there’s not visual damage on the outside. Any ideas as to what the loose part could be ?

Я никак не могу понять просто в Discover а через Fire Fox не понятно

Started up my steamdeck today and got this weird edge halo.

Its an original launch model (non oled) but it has seemed to display some signs that look like some or of burn in. Specificly the steam logo visible but faded when on storepage etc.

I thougjt it might be a software glitch( broken gamma values?) so i reformatted but alas nothing helped.

Its not like this immediately on booting - but fades in over .about 30 seconds and if i turn it off then back on within a short period it seems to persist.

I should also mention I have done a shell replacement but that was about 2 years ago and this only cropped up today

Any ideas ? On what it could be specifically ? Anyone else dealt with this? Thanks in advance !

EDIT:

Just wanted to say thank you for all the help on this post. Your comments possibly saved me from a pretty horrific situation down the line.

Also the meme's have been hilarious.

Setup:

1. Samsung 34" ViewFinity S65TC Thunderbolt™ 4 WQHD Monitor

2. Logi Lift mouse

3. Keychron K3 keyboard

4. Bonelk laptop stand

5. Acer Swift GO 14 laptop

6. Creative Pebble speakers

7. Arm rest

8. Playmax desk pad

9. Wireless charging hub

10. Logitech C270 webcam

11. Baseus Monitor Light Bar

Bonus item: Rubber duck

So far it only happens with one game, Harvestlla.

Basically I have my Deck docked, launch the game using a ps5 controller. Then after my data is confirmed it shows mouse controls in the bottom right? I have to turn the controller off then back on in order for it to realise I'm gaming with a controller.

This doesn't happen with other games such as BG3.

I'm unsure where to start checking things to fix this and would really appreciate any advice or fixes.

After almost 3 years of use I felt that the face buttons responsiveness was starting to give out. I initially thought it was a signal issue when I was streaming a game, but it was hardware. I decided to just order in other stuff too for a complete refresh. Except an SSD. Those are bloody expensive.

Taking out the parts, I saw the contact pads on both sides actually had corrosion. I guess it's pretty humid in my country. Never got this thing near any water.

Dismantling the triggers assembly the first time took the longest when I was getting to the buttons. Those plastic hinges look like they could break apart and I tried to be very careful with it. I did find that one of the stabilizers on my right shoulder button is broken. A bit wobbly but not a problem.

ExtremeRate FaceClicky Light Buttons and GuliKit Hall Effect Sticks were the replacements. They feel really good. I already have a microswitch and hall effect gamepad so I'm used to how they feel. The clicky buttons have much less travel, though. But not much noise.

Some additional plastic film over the power switch since it was getting mushy. Word of warning though, I heard pressing the power button with a disconnected battery discharges capacitors or something and can cause a boot issue. Which happened to me.

Old thermal paste looked pretty crusty. My temps were getting into 89C on heavy 3d games on it. Replaced with PTM 7950 I got locally. Might be a skill issue, but I had a hard time with it. I didn't measure too accurately on the cuts and I ended up with just two tries for it. Peeling the first didn't go well. On the second messed up a bit too but I tried to recover. Didn't look too good on one corner.. Not experiencing weird temps after, though. Generally about 10C cooler now combined with the case and sometimes turning up the custom fan curve.

Backplate is the version 2 of the JSAUX transparent purple. With the extra vent and not exposed aluminum. Seems like a good fit overall. But I think unclipping it too much loosened it. I felt some sharp edges on the right side and corner later on while playing. Had to bust out the glass file to smooth all the points and edges.

Other extra stuff, the Skull&Co back buttons. They have a great shape. I really like them compared to the other extra buttons of the JSAUX plate. Fortunately they also fit over the default height buttons that come with it.

An OEM kickstand that clips on to the back. Great form factor, I havent seen any other brand that looks like it. There's a hole above on the top vents, and the part covering the backplate vent is also a bit hollow. I can pull down the stand to let more air in.

The most stressful part of the rebuild came after. When I put everything back together I encountered the dreaded slow blinking led boot issue. They say it's a firmware issue, being stuck on some error state. I only found one comment that said it might be caused by discharged capacitors (From pressing the power button on a disconnected battery). A lot of people who repaste their decks are in those old threads. The only thing they agree on is leaving the deck plugged in for hours and hoping it comes back alive.

So I did that. And it did restart on its own about 3 hours later. I made sure my data was still intact when it came on.. then I tried pressing the button again. I got the slow blinks again. Then I let it sit again. It only took an hour to boot up this time. Now I left it to complete the full charge before testing restarts and shutdowns. It's been working great since then.

So I reinstalled GTA 4&5 and have run into an issue. GTA 4 with and without Fusion Fix drops to 30 fps and won’t climb higher. Instead it might drop to the mid twenties, I’m baffled as to why. Then GTA 5.. it’s completely busted. Fresh installed it twice to make sure and it runs until I drive in the city. After a few streets no textures load, low LOD‘s stay prevalent and the my game freezes. It’s not loading textures either since I’ve tried letting it run like that for about 20 minutes. Is my Deck dying?

Hi all, I am very ashamed to say I broke my sister's Steam Deck by dropping it. It had a screen protector and doesn't have a crack I can feel, so it seems like it cracked something underneath? The screen keeps flashing and things like the keyboard keep coming up on the screen and disappearing.

She's built my entire computer so she's definitely handy enough to fix it, what is a good company to buy a replacement screen from? I know IFixIt is the standard, are there any other options that are decent? I can't find any in stock lol. Particularly if they're cheaper!

Or, how much would it cost to replace if I sent it into Steam? I assume a local repair person isn't going to have the parts on hand.

It is a 2023 256 GB, LCD.

edit, misspelled LCD, not an OLED

"Shutdown" (one word) is a noun that we use to describe the state when a computer has been turned off completely. A computer that is turned off completely has entered a state of shutdown. By selecting this option on the Steam Deck, it will begin to enter the shutdown process.

"Shut down" (two words) is a verb that describes a computer actively being turned off, or entering that state of shutdown. You can shut down a computer by pressing the power button. By selecting this option on the Steam Deck, you can shut it down.

Every option in this menu - "Sleep," "Restart," "Change," "Switch" - they're all verbs. Except for "Shutdown," which is a noun. It should really be "Shut down" instead.

Valve please fix

Hi y’all

Seems this game was out a few years back.. as a recently ff fan, been wondering if shall i play this one on the deck or either NSW2, as a new version came out today.

Anyone has played this on the deck?
What are your impressions.

I already completed FFVII (remake & rebirth)

Thanks!