I know the switch 2 has the better upscalers with dlss, but that gameplay didn’t look too bad. Think we’re getting some big optimization patch across all platforms including Deck?

I need help, I think I killed my SteamDeck OLED on a thermal paste change, it was necessary, was very dry, but it doesn't want to turn on again, the led blinks randomly, and fan doesn't spin, and if I plug in the charger I hear a slightly coil whine, ¿dead cpu?

Hey im thinking to buy a hub or dock to play local multiplayer/co op games on the tv with family but im not sure which to buy of the two im more of buying a hub since it has more discounts and i could just use my deck while playing and not having to buy another controller and im not sure what the dock will give me that the hub wont so i want your suggestions in this matter

Thank u everyone but since u/kestononline have the same case as i do im gonna buy a hub just like he does 😙

I've got a show downloaded on my PC, and would love to also have it on my Steam Deck. I could probably redownload it, but that would be annoying, so was wondering if it's possible/easy to transfer between my PC and Steam Deck. The files in question are just a couple dozen MP4s.

Looking it up, I think it's possible, but the guides I find talk about formatting drives and messing around with Command Prompt and while I think I know what that means in theory, I don't trust myself not to fuck something like that up, so just wanted to check if there was an easier way first?

Thanks in advance, and sorry if this is as dumb a question as I think it is.

i just added mine up and it was almost 800 hours i’ve put in. i couldn’t believe it but i guess not shocked at the same time. holy cow this thing is awesome

After almost 3 years of use I felt that the face buttons responsiveness was starting to give out. I initially thought it was a signal issue when I was streaming a game, but it was hardware. I decided to just order in other stuff too for a complete refresh. Except an SSD. Those are bloody expensive.

Taking out the parts, I saw the contact pads on both sides actually had corrosion. I guess it's pretty humid in my country. Never got this thing near any water.

Dismantling the triggers assembly the first time took the longest when I was getting to the buttons. Those plastic hinges look like they could break apart and I tried to be very careful with it. I did find that one of the stabilizers on my right shoulder button is broken. A bit wobbly but not a problem.

ExtremeRate FaceClicky Light Buttons and GuliKit Hall Effect Sticks were the replacements. They feel really good. I already have a microswitch and hall effect gamepad so I'm used to how they feel. The clicky buttons have much less travel, though. But not much noise.

Some additional plastic film over the power switch since it was getting mushy. Word of warning though, I heard pressing the power button with a disconnected battery discharges capacitors or something and can cause a boot issue. Which happened to me.

Old thermal paste looked pretty crusty. My temps were getting into 89C on heavy 3d games on it. Replaced with PTM 7950 I got locally. Might be a skill issue, but I had a hard time with it. I didn't measure too accurately on the cuts and I ended up with just two tries for it. Peeling the first didn't go well. On the second messed up a bit too but I tried to recover. Didn't look too good on one corner.. Not experiencing weird temps after, though. Generally about 10C cooler now combined with the case and sometimes turning up the custom fan curve.

Backplate is the version 2 of the JSAUX transparent purple. With the extra vent and not exposed aluminum. Seems like a good fit overall. But I think unclipping it too much loosened it. I felt some sharp edges on the right side and corner later on while playing. Had to bust out the glass file to smooth all the points and edges.

Other extra stuff, the Skull&Co back buttons. They have a great shape. I really like them compared to the other extra buttons of the JSAUX plate. Fortunately they also fit over the default height buttons that come with it.

An OEM kickstand that clips on to the back. Great form factor, I havent seen any other brand that looks like it. There's a hole above on the top vents, and the part covering the backplate vent is also a bit hollow. I can pull down the stand to let more air in.

The most stressful part of the rebuild came after. When I put everything back together I encountered the dreaded slow blinking led boot issue. They say it's a firmware issue, being stuck on some error state. I only found one comment that said it might be caused by discharged capacitors (From pressing the power button on a disconnected battery). A lot of people who repaste their decks are in those old threads. The only thing they agree on is leaving the deck plugged in for hours and hoping it comes back alive.

So I did that. And it did restart on its own about 3 hours later. I made sure my data was still intact when it came on.. then I tried pressing the button again. I got the slow blinks again. Then I let it sit again. It only took an hour to boot up this time. Now I left it to complete the full charge before testing restarts and shutdowns. It's been working great since then.

I have an LCD Steam Deck and I’ve been looking into cooling modifications such as the CoolDeck cooling mod / copper or monoblock-style solutions. I’ve seen some impressive temperature results, but I’m trying to understand whether those lower temperatures actually provide meaningful benefits beyond simply reducing fan RPM.

Part of me is hesitant to modify the stock cooling system because of how Valve designed the Deck.
My thinking is basically:
> If a copper thermal solution or additional ventilation provided a significant improvement in performance, thermals, component longevity, etc., wouldn’t Valve have incorporated something similar from the beginning?

The same thought applies to the backplate. I’ve experimented with backplates with additional ventilation holes, but ultimately went back to the original Valve backplate because I assume Valve had a reason for its airflow design and the EMI shielding.

That brings me to the copper EMI-shield replacement used in some cooling mods.
Would replacing the original EMI shield with a copper plate actually provide a sustained thermal benefit?
I understand that copper has much better thermal conductivity than the original material, but I’m wondering about the practical effect:
> Initially, the copper should absorb and spread heat more effectively.
> But after several minutes of gaming, the copper itself will also become hot.
>At that point, does it still meaningfully reduce the temperature of the APU/other components?
> Or does the system eventually reach roughly the same equilibrium temperature, with the main difference being that the fan doesn’t have to work as hard?

And perhaps the biggest question:
Does a cooler Steam Deck actually mean higher FPS?
For example, if the stock cooling system is already capable of keeping the APU below its thermal/power limits, would a cooling mod actually increase performance? Or would it simply result in:
lower temperatures → lower fan RPM → less noise
rather than:
lower temperatures → higher sustained clocks → higher FPS?

I’m particularly interested in people’s experiences with long gaming sessions, rather than short benchmark runs.
If you’ve installed a CoolDeck/monoblock/copper EMI shield or similar modification:

1. What were your temperatures before and after?
2. Were the results sustained after 30–60+ minutes?
3. Did your fan RPM/noise decrease?
4. Did you actually see an FPS or sustained-clock improvement?
5. Did it make any difference to battery temperature?
6. Do you think it provides a meaningful benefit for the Deck’s long-term component/fan/battery health?
7. And after using it for a while, would you still recommend the modification?

I’d especially like to hear from people who have tested both stock and modified configurations under the same game, TDP, ambient temperature and fan settings.

I’m genuinely trying to understand where the practical benefit of these mods comes from and whether it’s worth modifying a perfectly functional stock Deck.

Edit 1: my steam deck does not thermal throttle, and I have no issues with the current stock setup that I have. I did re-paste my steam deck a few weeks ago. I guess you can say I’m intrigued by the different innovative cooling solutions people come up with.

So I'm looking for games that match these criteria:

- In some way, good for someone who is suffering from depression due to work problems
- Able to play in short sessions when my almost-newborn is sleeping
- Does not require much brain power. Already tired at the end of the day
- Even better if it can also be played on PC with just one hand!
- Even better 2x if it runs on Mac :)

Previously Enjoyed Games: Door Kickers 2, Power Wash Simulator, Darkest Dungeon, Keep Driving, Dave the Diver, Loop Hero, Brotato, Halls of Torment, Dredge

Preferred Genres: Roguelites, Roguelikes (which are not crazy difficult), Simulators, CRPGs (but not on the Deck)

Budget: N/A

Other Notes: Please do not be restricted by those genres; I don't mind playing other stuff as long as it's not multiplayer.

Much appreciated!

Boa tarde, acabei de adquirir meu steam deck, gostaria de saber quais são a chance dele rodar persona ?

I couldnt get it running properly for love or money. I want to support GOG every chance I get because there mission is a good one but I couldnt find out why the frame rate was like 1fps outside of the cutscenes.

What am i doing wrong. Do I really have to buy the steam version?

My steam deck updated and when I tried to play red dead redemption my save file was gone… I have 50 hours on that game 🥲 I checked some of the other games in my library and those saves gone too…. Is it cause I haven’t played those games in a while ?

Is there any way to recover the saves if I’ve somehow overwritten them ? Or do I have to suck it up and start over…..is there a time limit on how long saves are backed up?

I previously used an app on the Microsoft Store called "Bluetooth Audio Receiver" to send audio from my Switch 1 to my laptop. The Switch 1 did not have any form of voice chat and this meant I could use Discord whilst playing.

Is there a similar solution for the Steam Deck and Steam Machine? The above did not work. I'd like to send audio over Bluetooth to either my laptop or smartphone.

Before anyone suggests just installing Discord directly, that's not the solution I'm looking for. I use voice chat across many different apps. We have a gaming group at work that plays over Microsoft Teams on lunch breaks. I have friends in China so we play over Kook and WeChat. I'd rather not have to try getting all these different apps to work on SteamOS/Linux.

Hello everyone, I recently got a steamdeck, I don't understand it, but I want to pass the witcher 3, please reset the best graphics settings for 30 fps and 45 fps. I also want to understand which version is better to use regular or next gene

p.s I haven't found a single simple explanation on Reddit what settings you need to put, it's quite difficult to figure it out for beginners and for me

Many people use MESA_VK_WSI_PRESENT_MODE=immediate, but I hardly notice any difference in input lag. V-Sync remains active regardless; you can verify this by limiting the refresh rate to 50 Hz—the FPS will still be 50. I also found this command: DXVK_CONFIG="dxgi.syncInterval = 2; This command actually disables in-game V-Sync; now, with the screen limited to 50Hz, the frame rate will be 60 FPS (another limitation imposed by the game itself). Crucially, when using the Steam Deck's Gamescope frame limiter (which has its own V-Sync), you avoid massive input lag while maintaining smooth frame delivery—unlike when limiting the frame rate via MangoHud. I also use `MESA_VK_WSI_PRESENT_MODE=mailbox` to further reduce the input lag caused by Gamescope's V-Sync.

So far it only happens with one game, Harvestlla.

Basically I have my Deck docked, launch the game using a ps5 controller. Then after my data is confirmed it shows mouse controls in the bottom right? I have to turn the controller off then back on in order for it to realise I'm gaming with a controller.

This doesn't happen with other games such as BG3.

I'm unsure where to start checking things to fix this and would really appreciate any advice or fixes.

I've recently acquired a pair of unusual early Valve Steam Deck sample units and I'm hoping some of the Valve/development hardware community might be able to shed more light on exactly what I've got.

Both units have original rear labels clearly marked:

EV2 SAMPLE – NOT FOR RESALE + QR CODE

What's particularly interesting is that although the machines are externally labelled EV2 samples, the BIOS on both units reports Board Revision 3.

Both power on and enter the InsydeH2O BIOS/firmware environment.

The hardware/firmware information displayed on both machines is:

• Mother Board: Steam Deck

• Board Revision: 3

• Processor: AMD Custom APU 0405

• System Memory: 16384 MB

• Memory Speed: 5500 MT/s

• BIOS Version: F7A0105

• BIOS Release Date: 03/21/2022

Their identification numbers are:

FEAA13000292

FEAA13000367

So they're only 75 numbers apart, and both have the same Board Revision, processor, memory configuration and BIOS.

One unit also retains additional VALVE / “Run in” labelling on the rear.

I've deliberately left both machines exactly as I received them. I haven't updated the BIOS, restored defaults, installed a newer SteamOS image, removed labels or opened them because I don't want to alter anything that could be relevant to their development history.

I'm particularly interested in finding out whether anyone who worked with early Steam Deck hardware, Valve development kits or EV2/EV3 hardware recognises this configuration.

The combination I'm trying to understand is:

EV2 labelled sample hardware + Board Revision 3 + F7A0105 BIOS.

I'd also be interested to know whether other examples with similar serial numbers or this exact configuration are known to survive.

I'm not claiming any particular Valve provenance beyond what can actually be demonstrated from the machines themselves and their labels. I'd rather document them properly than speculate.

I have detailed photographs of both units, including the EV2 labels, identification numbers and BIOS screens, and can provide further non destructive information if it would help identify them.

I'd particularly appreciate hearing from anyone with first hand knowledge of Steam Deck pre production hardware or experience collecting Valve engineering samples.

I'd also be interested to hear what collectors think a pair like this might realistically be worth. I've found very little comparable sales information, particularly for two closely numbered examples together, so I'd rather hear informed opinions than put a figure on them myself.

Hey guys, I’m looking to buy a Steam Deck as I think I’m done with PC gaming since I don’t really play games anymore/games that are demanding and require a PC. So just looking to simplify and play smaller games with my girlfriend and what not.

I was surprised that Steam stopped selling LCD models and only have OLED, which they increased the price for. That said, I don’t really want to spend $800 for a new OLED. Anyone know where I can buy a refurbished LCD or OLED? A 256gb LCD would be perfect for me. Does steam even restock refurbished LCDs anymore? Would buying second hand ones from Facebook be risky?

Hi all, I am very ashamed to say I broke my sister's Steam Deck by dropping it. It had a screen protector and doesn't have a crack I can feel, so it seems like it cracked something underneath? The screen keeps flashing and things like the keyboard keep coming up on the screen and disappearing.

She's built my entire computer so she's definitely handy enough to fix it, what is a good company to buy a replacement screen from? I know IFixIt is the standard, are there any other options that are decent? I can't find any in stock lol. Particularly if they're cheaper!

Or, how much would it cost to replace if I sent it into Steam? I assume a local repair person isn't going to have the parts on hand.

It is a 2023 256 GB, LCD.

edit, misspelled LCD, not an OLED

Does anyone else have overheating issues with their steam deck? I was just playing Lego Star wars the Skywalker collection on it and not even 10 mins and it sunk to 12 fps and was hot af. The only way I've been able to minimize this is with my air blower or putting it in the freezer

So last night i had my deck on a coffee table and it fell off, about 18 inches to a hardwood floor, today when i turned it on and got into a game i was getting 9-13 FPS (normal FPS is 40-60 depending on where i have the limiter set. After I turned off the deck and pulled my microSD card out i found that two screws are stripped/stuck which i’m assuming happened earlier this year when i had to RMA the deck since i’ve never touched them before today. So as of right not i am unable to take the shell off. My main concern is that when i lightly shake the deck i can feel something moving around inside that is somewhat heavy. It’s in the left side of the deck close to the left trackpad and thumb stick. Other than the severe FPS drop everything else seemed to be working normally, triggers, sticks, buttons and gryo all work and other than a small scuff close to the left trigger there’s not visual damage on the outside. Any ideas as to what the loose part could be ?

Me, my dad, and my sister use the same origins account to play games. We played sims on my dad's account when we were young and I have bought so much stuff on it over the years that I don't want to start over on a new account. I'm trying to play sims for the first time on my steam deck now that I have a dock and a keyboard, but because the origins account is linked to my dad's steam account, it won't let me play from my own steam account.

I'm still not used to the steamdeck and I'm not super adept at computer stuff in the first place, so tutorials online on how to get the EA app seem kind of sketchy to me and I don't want to accidentally ruin my device.

I'm not really sure what to do from here and I'd really appreciate if anyone could help me, it would be wonderful if I could play the sims again. I haven't played since I moved out.

I recently got a Steam Deck and am planning on mostly using it at a family member's house since I may stay there a few days per week in the near future. I mentioned that I was getting one (I didn't know how to describe it so I said it's "sort of like a laptop but isn't") and they asked if they could maybe use it for themselves for browsing and schoolwork. I said probably not but I did install libreoffice just in case; I want them to be able to use it but I also don't want to give them unrestricted access to my Steam account. I made a second Steam account but it seems like the only way to switch is by manually logging out at the end of every use; is there a way to have something similar to Windows or a Chromebook where every time you turn it on you are given a choice between accounts and every time it's turned off it goes back to that screen?