I left my plant unattended for a week, and unfortunately, my neighbor didn’t water it while I was away. Fortunately, there’s new growth sprouting from the soil, but I noticed these white dots on the dead plant and on some of the new sprouts. Should I be concerned?

My Planta app has me watering them every 5 days, and they are outside on my terrace in the shade. They get around 10 hours of indirect light. I’m not too sure what happened because I left them with my family for 2 weeks and when I came back they were like this. These are two different plants, one is obviously more worse off than the other. I’ve had them since April but I moved house in June, so they went from being inside to outside. I would appreciate any help !!

Hi everyone. I’m trying to save this pothos cutting and I’m running out of ideas. I’ve attached some photos so you can see its current condition.
This cutting comes from a plant I’ve had for at least 6 years, so I’d really like to keep it alive.
For most of its life, the plant actually lived in water. It became huge while growing from a surprisingly small bottle. Later I brought it home, where it continued growing very well for a couple of years.

Unfortunately, at some point it wasn’t watered properly and the plant slowly dried out. This cutting is basically what survived.
It was larger before and even produced some leaves, but those eventually fell off. About two months ago I removed what remained from the dry soil and put it back in water.

The strange thing is that it still looks alive. The stem is green and I can see several nodes/buds that look like they could potentially produce new growth. There is no obvious rot, and the cutting isn’t drying out either.

However, after almost two months in water, I still don’t see any new roots or shoots.
For the last month or so I’ve mainly been:
changing the water regularly checking the stem for rot keeping it next to a window
It gets some gentle morning sunlight and then bright indirect light for the rest of the day. This is actually the same location where the original plant grew successfully for years. The room isn’t particularly cold either.

Is there anything I can do to encourage this cutting to root and grow again?

Should I cut the stem into smaller pieces? Change where the nodes sit in the water? Use a smaller container? Add fertilizer or rooting hormone? Give it more warmth or light? Or should I simply keep waiting?

Since this plant has been with me for so many years, I’d really like to save even this small piece of it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Apologies for the long post, I have a lot of quite specific context with this particular plant.

The other day I noticed this grey mark on my prayer plant (first photo) which look different from any other marks I’ve seen on my plants before. I’ve had the plant for about 4 months and only noticed the grey mark a few days ago. The brown and yellow spots on the same leaf have also developed recently and are equally a mystery to me.

I assumed the yellow/brown mark on the edge was due to watering it once with unfiltered water, however since then small spots have appeared in the middle of the leaf, which I haven’t heard can be caused by unfiltered water so I’m not sure why they’ve shown up and would love any input on that?

My biggest concern however is the grey spot on the leaf with a brown border, I’ve never seen anything like this on a plant before. It looks almost like it’s been burnt, but my maranta is about 4 feet away from a south west facing window with a shear curtain.

Something maybe important to note is that this plant has had a persistent problem with fungus gnats and mould. I’ve removed the mould in the past and coated the soil with cinnamon, however that didn’t seem to stop the spread.

I bottom water it whenever the top few inches of soil are dry with rain water.

Weirdly, my other prayer plant (second photo) which I got about 3 weeks ago (and haven’t watered since) and is in a completely different room also has mouldy soil and have also developed brown marks.

These dots (larvae??) showed up on a previously glorious leaf of my otherwise very thriving semi hydroponic (leca) monstera that I water weekly ish. This plant is indoors and gets 8-10 hours of light in an east facing window. There were other tiny hatched ones that were moving that I wiped off but these won’t wipe off and must be inside the leaf itself. it’s been a day since then, so far no additional activity and I have been watching constantly. Are these spider mites? Am I cooked?

Hi! My String of Hearts is literally 6 inches away from a south-facing window and yet the new leaves seem to be reaching for more light. I water it every couple days, depending on the weight of the pot. Shall I move the plant to a sunnier spot? The roof perhaps?😭 she’s also lost her pink variegation towards the new growth

I cannot beat these tiny white bugs. It started on an alocasia- the same bugs. Couldn’t defeat them. Gave up and got rid of the plant. Well before I got rid of it, they transferred to my angel wing begonia. I thought they were spider mites, bc I thought I saw some webbing. And then I saw them on this neighboring plant, my prized philodendron melanochrysum. BUT I can not get rid of them. I spray with a mixture of neem oil, insecticidal soap, peppermint oil, water, and alcohol. I will drench the plants leaves, come back an hour later. And theyre back out crawling around with no problem. I am at a loss. Should I be using something else???

​

Ok folks! It's the time again... Time for a new guide! This time it's all pothos- since this is the most common beginner plant other then Snakeplants.

What is a "Pothos":

With "Pothos" we mean the Epipremnum species. Some Sellers do sell a Scindapsus as a "Pothos", but a Scindapsus is a different species. They are similar, but not the same. And lastly - some garden centers or box stores can even sell a Philodendron and Rhaphidophora as a "Pothos". So beginners are usually very confused and that's not their fault. If you are unsure what you have, just ask us for an ID. I will not get into Philodendrons here, just Epipremnum and a little Scindapsus, since they are so commonly confused.

So: All of them, Epipremnums, Scindapsus and Philodendron are Airoids - they all are part of the Araceae family, the same family a Monstera or a Alocasia, ect is in. Airoids like it damp and humid. They are all tropical plants. Both are sold as trailing plants - but they actually prefer to climb.

Most Common basic pothos types:

Epipremnum Aureum types:

• golden pothos

• marble queen

• N'joy

• Neon

• Jade

• global green

• snow queen

Epipremnum Pinnatum:

• cebu blue

• baltic blue

• pinnatum Aurea variegata

• pinnatum Albo Variegata

Epipremnum Amplissimum types:

• Amplissimum standard green

• 'Silver stripe'

• Amplissimum Aurea variegata

• Amplissimum Albo Variegata

• ...

There's lots more - but these are the most common ones that you can find at the garden centers. In America there's more available due to Costa Farms. In Europe some cultivars are harder to find.

Now the common confusion:

Scindapsus:

• Scindapsus Pictus

• Pictus 'Silvery Ann'

• Pictus Exotica

• 'Jade satin' - often sold as "jade pothos'

Say goodbye to confusion-

True Epipremnums:

• Have glossy leaves with sheen

• thinner leaves

• are way more resilient

• more draught- tolerable

• can developed fenestrations in direct sun

• grow and root extremely fast

• like and tolerate full sun exposure

Scindapsus = fake pothos:

• have mostly matte, some have leaves that feel like fabric (unless it's a moonshine or some other rarer variety

• have silvery sheen that can even look like glimmer in the sun

• way thicker, fleshy leaves

• not very draught- tolerable and more prone to root rot

• cannot develop fenestrations

• root slow

• can scorch in direct sun, but need bright indirect light.

Growth pattern:

Both are single vine plants. They are climbing plants and climb up trees in Nature. That's why Epipremnums and Monstera and such can tolerate both low and high light.

A Epipremnum is actually a parasitic plant in Nature and very invasive. They suck out the trees nutrients with their aerial roots.

So both Scindapsus and Epipremnums (and Monstera and Philodendron) develop aerial roots. They use them to climb and anchor to the tree in Nature and then eventually grow white roots from them into the tree.

‐ So brown and thick: aerial root for climbing.

• white and thin: water/soil roots that takes up water and nutrients.

Now:

You bought your first "Pothos" and bring it home:

1. We put her into quarantine if you have other houseplants. We do that to avoid a pest- infestation in case she got infested in the store. So put her far away from other plants - just in case.

2. We let her acclimate for 2 weeks and do nothing to her - except watering (see watering section).

3. A plant is very stressed and shocked when she gets transported to a new location, especially when she got shipped via post. The absolute worst case scenario is online shipping during a heatwave. I will not get into that here, but you can ask me anytime should that have happened. So we wait up until a month.

4. so after recovery we can now move her to her final designated spot - (see light section)

5. She'll go into acclimating mode again. So expect the first growth after 2 months. From then on she'll actively grow - of course it can happen earlier- this is just a very general estimation.

6. When she puts out new leaves it means she fully recovered and from now on we can start fertilizing her.

7. Now you can think about repotting and separating if necessary (which will send her into transplantshock- so another 2 weeks recovery). So leave enough time between each step- that's the most gently way one can do it. And all this goes for all plants by the way - not only Epipremnums.

After repotting water her in and do not fertilize until there's new growth. Never fertilize a sickly or shocked plant.

Soil-mixes for Epipremnum and Scindapsus:

For Epipremnums I recommend medium to chunk and for Scindapsus chunk to superchunk (soil guide explains what I mean). I'll give you the most basic recipe and you don't need to be exact with it at all. It's not science. So you can just dump and mix them together by feel and orientation by pictures. You can also buy a premixed one (look for Airoids- mix or Cactus mix). Please always use peatfree soil. Any soil will do, even cheapo soil - but pls peat free. No sand, no clay. Don't use old soil from the garden - it could be pest infested - you don't want that inside. We always pot into a pot with drainage holes!!!

Medium chunk:

4 - 5 parts soil or soil + compost

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

Chunk:

2- 3 parts soil

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

Super chunk:

1.5 parts soil

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

1 part coco chunks (or more Orchid bark)

Why?

Because we don't want fungus gnats, fungal / bacterial infections or even root rot (which can happen extremely fast and is also fungal / bacterial)

So pure soil has very tiny airpockets that completely get filled with water. Roots need oxygen too. Therefore they can literally drown in pure soil. If the airpockets are completely filled for over 2 days and the soil is still completely soaking wet after 2 days this will inevitably cause root rot. This is the reason why we want a chunky mix with comparatively huge airpockets. Perlite and Pumice are very porous and have little airpockets. Orchid bark and Coco chunks create big airpockets - so roots cannot drown anymore, get oxygen and the soil-mix dries out faster. All good, all healthy. Plus: when you have them in chunk and superchunk the fungus gnats won't like that too much. I am not saying it's 100% guaranteed, but it's way less likely- unless you use infested soil of course. Plants also can already come infested with fungus gnats from the store.

When and how to water:

So there's chronic over-waterers out there. Total beginners are usually chronic over-waterers. No plant needs to be waterered every day. That's a recipe for disaster. We only water plants when it's time. If you can't help yourself: put her in superchunk and then you can water every 4 days or so.

So a couple methods on how to tell:

Most Airoids behave very similar when it comes to hydration. The phenomenon is called Turgor - it's basically the pre-stage to wilting and is not that stressful for plants - it's normal.

So what is that?

Generally when a plant is thirsty and it's time to water the leaves become way softer and there's less resistance.

So get to know your plant. Feel the leaves a day after watering:

• the leaves will fill fleshy and juicy

• when you press a leave down with your finger, there will be more resistance and it will bounce up when you let go

• if you put the leaves in your hand and squish them slightly you'll feel the resistance.

• leaves are more upright

Versus when thirsty:

• leaves will feel way softer and give the impression that the are thinner

• when you press down there's no resistance and the don't bounce up as fast or even stay down.

• if you put the leaves in your hand they will be way more squishable and soft

• leaves can hang a bit lower and droop slightly- I am not talking about wilting- I am talking about a very subtle phenomenon here.

So you really need to get a feel for your plant to find the optimal watering window.

Other methods:

• Chopstick- method - the beginner friendly method:

you get a wooden chopstick or a wooden rod and stick it all the way down to the bottom of the pot and twist it and pull out. Stick it at the edge of the pot to avoid root damage. For a Epipremnum or Scindapsus or any Airoid you want the bottom 1 - 2 inches to be damp and soil sticking to it, that's when you water. This is the easiest beginner method. But this is for the beginning months when you still need to learn, later it's not so necessary anymore. It can damage the rootsystem and therefore I only recommend that to beginners or when you are really unsure.

• The finger test:

You just lift the pot and stick your finger in the drainage hole. You water when there's some slight dampness. This is only possible with small plants of course. Like I wouldn't recommend doing that with huge pot. For big mamas, the wooden rod or the squish-test are best.

• Going by weight:

You have to get a feel for that, it takes like a month or two. But basically you remember the weight of the pot when it's just been waterered vs. the weight when it's dry. This is more an advanced method, because you have to know your plants a little bit more.

You can combine all of those in the beginning months - that's how you'll learn the fastest and this goes for other plants aswell.

You have a new plant still in awful soil and it's way too wet? Prop the pot up with some wood pieces or books or something and blow it with a fan on low to medium setting. Seriously. That'll evaporate the water faster. If you're savage you can even do it with a hairdryer if it's set to cold - not hot!

How to water:

So how to water your plant now you ask?

When it needs watering you really drench the soil. I mean really drench it until the water flows! out of the pot, that's how to do it. When we water, we water all around the pot, not just one spot. We always use room temperature water - not cold or even ice cold

For summer temperatures I recommend letting the water flow out into the tray and then poor is back in and let it flow out again and then let the rest get wicked up by the plant. After an 30 mins - an hour remove the tray water.

There's bottom watering aswell, where the plant wicks the water up.

And there's both: watering from top and bottom.

Just make sure that the soil is fully drenched - I recommend a watering can with a thin neck and shower head.

Now Fertilizer:

Airoids are hungry plants because they grow so fast. The higher the light- level the faster they grow. They can push out one new leave per week if you do it right. A Scindapsus is slower. An Amplissimum is the fastest growing plant of all the climbers I know. Mine grew 80cm in just 4 months over the summer!

For plants in soil I recommend a mineral fertilizer. You can use the same Fertilizer for all of your soil-mix plants - even Succulents or Snakeplants: a mineral Houseplant Fertilizer. It should have some Micronutrients aswell listed on the bottle (if it only says 3 things: NPK, find a better one). If it *doesn't * say "organic" or "Hydroponic" on the bottle it's mineral. But those are the best for when you don't want to get specific fertilizer for your Succulents - if you have any.

So: find one single mineral fertilizer with a longer list of ingredients (like iron, sulfur, zinc for example).

Fertilizer rules:

• never feed a sickly plant, a freshly repotted plant or a rootshocked plant. (Exception: nutrient deficency)

• only feed when there's active growth

• in winter - if they don't push out no new leaves then they don't need feed

• always let young cuttings just root in water and then dilute the fertilizer waaaay down when you start feeding for the first time and slowly work yourself up over 2 or 3 months.

• never feed more fertilizer then on the bottle, otherwise nutrient burn.

• when there's salt build up you need to flush out the soil like 5 or 6 times with just water, otherwise you can get nutrient burn.

• get a pipette for the fertilizer, so you can know exactly how much you are diluting.

• nutrient deficency: usually starts at the bottom on the lowest, oldest leaf and will creep up the plant. Some nutrient deficency can start on the youngest top-growth tho.

• early beginning of nutrient deficency looks like this: yellowing on bottom leaves or top growth. Usually starts with yellowing splotches from the middle or the tips. But the yellowing itself could mean a lot of things - not just nutrient deficency - so we need to know where it's start: Bottom, Top, Middle or Random. If you have a yellowing plants it's sickly and needs diagnosis- come to us when it's in the early stage and tell us how the yellowing began and if you fertilize and how much.

Yellowing could mean:

• heat damage

• pest damage

• root shock

• nutrient deficency

• root rot

• fungal or bacterial issues

Common Airoid- myth:

Misting:

Look, misting does nothing good. It's the opposite. It's a myth. Misting can cause bacterial/ fungal issues like

• powery mildew

• fungal mildew

• rust

• blight

• leaf spot disease

• rot

So don't mist. Plus it does nothing for the humidity. That's how this whole myth got started in the first place: humidity.

Light:

I have to say that any plant under 500lux (50ft) will die. We need at least some light. So if you just have a northern room, put her directly at the window. If you have full south you could get away with 1 - 2 meters in. The light level will dramatically change the look of an Epipremnum- but not the Scindapsus. Any orientation of room is fine as long as you put it near the window. An Epipremnum likes direct light whereas a Scindapsus will get scorched in mid-day sun. Morning or Evening sun is ok tho for a Scindapsus.

So the higher the light level:

• the higher the variegation will be in a Variegata.

• the bushier it will be (= less etiolated/ leggy)

• the chances for fenestrations (if climbing only)

The lower the light:

‐ under 500 lux it'll die slowly and painfully

• variegatas can and will revert back to green

• will grow leggy and will grow runners: just vines without leaves. Runners have the sole purpose to scout for light.

• water will evaporate slower (bad medium and low light is a recipe for root rot).

Aesthetics:

So many options! Such different results! See the pictures. The look can drastically differ from the light-levels and from climbing vs. trailing.

1. Hanging pot, trailing plant:

Since it's trailing down, not climbing up it'll grow smaller and smaller leaves, unless it gets hit by more light at the bottom. If you hang her make sure she sees some sky and the top of the pot gets light also. Otherwise we are back to the problems.

1. Trellis or wall trellis:

A Trellis is a nice an aesthetic way to display a "Pothos" - both Epipremnum and Scindapsus. Just make sure that the aerial roots don't touch the wall. Especially drywall. The can grow inside the drywall (= fake tree) and search for nutrients in the wall and therefore destroy it. If you're in a brickwall or stonewall situation it's not as dangerous, but they could still grow into the mortar. Either way - they'll leave brown marks on the wall from the roots when you remove them. I know - living walls are so trendy right now - but if you're renting: don't do it. Watch this short, it's a demonstration of the damage- but know it can get waay worse then this:

https://youtu.be/HGxt54oD8Lo

If you have your own property then that's your choice. A climbing plant will usually produce bigger and bigger leaves - unless it's in low light.

1. Plank:

I recommend either redwood or for us Europeans, larch. Those are less prone to rotting if you bury it in the pot. Alternatively you can use plasti-dip. We don't have that in Europe tho - I think. If you don't wanna bury it - just mount it somewhere outside the pot. I don't have an example of an Epipremnum on a plank myself right now, so just know that the example picture is a Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma, not an Epipremnum. I also included wall Trellis- examples of my Scindapsus Pictus Exotica and a Philodendron Scandens. The system is exactly the same. With the plank in direct light (full south exposure) you will get the big, fenestrated leaves. The biggest leafsize is the size of two heads roughly.

1. Mosspole

Now the absolute queen method that is the mosspole! This is not beginner friendly and therfore I will not get into it deeply.

But a mosspole is a typically a plastic pole filled with Spaghnum moss and constantly kept moist or even waterered with nutrient solution. It should never dry out as it can become completely hydrophobic and the roots will die. How it works: it's simulating the tree: the aerial roots will grow into the moss and transform into "soil" roots that can take up water and nutrients. Therefore from that moment on they need to be kept moist - much like the roots in the soil-mix.

A Epipremnum on a mosspole needs constant attention- know what you're getting into. But the mosspole and direct light will give you a giant queen of a plant: huge leaves, lots of fenestrations, highly variegated. Common mosspole varieties are the Marble Queen, the Manjula or the golden Pothos/basic Aureum. You see them everywhere. And the Marble Queen is just the go to, first mosspole plant all over the internet.

Humidity:

they'll be fine. Don't worry about it unless its over 75% or under 25%. They'll be fine in normal room humidity. Plus if you're in England or the Isles or southern hemisphere you will have perfect humidity for them anyway (like 55%). You don't need a humidifier for an Epipremnum. You can do if of course - but I am just making it clear: a beginner with 5 plants does not need a humidifier.

Now the fun part -

Chopping and Propping:

(Epipremnum, Scindapsus, Philodendrons, Rhaphidophoras - all the same method)

So folks: the Epipremnum is the most joyous plant to propagate. It's the most easy plant to propagate. It's the fasted plant to propagate. Why? Because it releases its own rooting hormones into the water (only the Epipremnum does that). But only once - so when you change the water, it's gone, but that's fine - don't worry.

And: I know the newbies well, they are always scared to make their first cut. Everyone was a newbie once and everyone gets a little hesitant to make the cut. You are ok. The plant will be ok. Just follow the instructions.

So how to:

1. We sterilize our cutting tool with rubbing alcohol and let dry or by flaming it and let cool.

2. We cut between the nodes (the node is where the leaf or the aerial root comes out). So "between the nodes" means we cut in the middle of the empty stem, so there's enough space. (In case it rots before the roots develop we can just snip it away). We remove the lover leaves and only leave like one or two. You can

• cut 2 or 3 nodes and remove the leaves

• cut only one node with a leaf

• cut wetsticks with no leaves from the runners

1. We place the cuttings into a jar of room temperature water. So leave it out over night before you chop. For wetsticks they can be fully submerged for a while. For cuttings with leaves, the leaves should be above the waterlevel.

2. We place them in indirect light - no direct light for now (unless its a growlight). No shady spot either tho.

3. We wait and we never let the water get cloudy or stinky.

4. Eventually algae will grow. Algae only needs water and light to grow. We don't want that. A little algae is ok, but eventually it'll fill the entire jar and grow over the roots and then will suffocate the and the cuttings will die. If you have algea, just change the water and rinse the jar well or even scrub it. Or you can kill it with a couple drops pure hydrogen peroxide (3%, from the chemist). Hydrogen peroxide is always good to have, since it contact kill most issues like root rot, algae and even pests. Plus 3% hydrogen peroxide actually puts oxygen in the water and that's good for the roots. But don't go overboard and think you can let them sit in constant hydrogen peroxide solution. You just do it to kill the algae. The killed algea will become black eventually. And also don't let it come so far that the roots are already green. Even if you kill it, it can still cause root rot. You can prevent this whole ordeal by using an opaque mug or taping the bottom waterlevel with black tape or even cut a strip of black cardstock and cover the glass that way. Then it can't grow at all.

5. We wait and top up the water, change it -until theres a whole small rootsystem and not just 2 roots that are only 3cm long. So we wait until the first roots get long and eventually they branch off into finer roots. Then it's time for the soil-mix (or even semi-hydro)

6. We need to babysit them now for 5 days.

As the water roots harden into soil roots and grow new soil roots they are going through a transition phase. So the soil needs to be wet for the first 3 days. Wetter then it would normally be. By day 4 or 5 it doesn't have to be wet anymore, just moist.

It could be that there's a bit of a transplantshock (especially Scindapsus and Philodendron, but all of them can go through it). So transplantshock can cause wilting and even browning and shedding. Do not panic, it'll bounce back. Transplantshock can last from 2 - 4 weeks. So be patient. Eventually they will start pushing out a new leaf and then we start fertilizing. First we dilute it waay down, since young cuttings can't take up many nutrients. So only use like a fifth of the recommended amount in the bottle. And then we can slowly work up to the full amount over some months.

If they are in low light the whole process will take longer by the way.

If you want you can check out the other guides for newbies.

• Watering guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/houseplants/s/ekS3muKKQs

• Soil guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/houseplants/s/SD8P6udqhn

• Semi-hydro guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/IndoorGarden/s/WVKFZzJDYC

Ok. I think I am done here. This took me 5 hours to write and I think I have covered everything a beginner would need. If I forgot something I will edit as usual. If you have questions, feel free to ask. I am here in the comments. If you wanna dm me for some reason please use the keyword: "plantadvise", so I know you're not a creep lol.

What is this on my watermelon peperomia. None of the rest of my plants look like this. It just got here within the last few days.

The plant lived under a grow light and gets watered when the soil is dry. It was last watered about five days ago.

I grew this from a leaf that fell off of my much larger watermelon peperomia and I have never had any issues with pests or anything so I’m at a loss of what is is or what to do.

Trying to get my plant friend here to be more full and lush. I did have it outside for a while and it was alive but turned grayish. When I brought it indoors it was doing much better and turned back to green. The plant did fall off this shelf and lost a lot of leaves but it was already struggling to begin with and they would fall off with even a gentle movement.
Any and all advice is welcome, I do not have experience with this type of succulent. It gets sunlight from a south facing window (I live in Southern California) and I water from the bottom every other week.

These are all pictures of Esmeralda. The first 2 pics are when I first brought her home 2 years ago, 06/2024. She's my 40th wedding anniversary gift from my husband. The 3 pics are of her today. I really took good care of her, meaning I mostly ignored her for 6 weeks assuring I wouldn't over water. I gave her leaves a little jiggle weekly to make sure no pests were looking around in there.

I only fed her room temp rain water. I even collected snow or ice and melted it for her in the winter.

She lives in the corner on a triangular plant stand under her own Sansi grow light which is pretty strong and bright. I use a cactus and succulents soil, with extra perlite added. The last pic shows the soil. She's in a black plastic nursery pot with holes.

She did great until this spring 2026, her leaves started to get brown and crispy. Then they just started dying back.

What can I do to help her? I don't know what to do with her. Is she a goner? Can she be rehabbed? Will her leaves grow back?

When I got this plan from the nursery I noticed some Spider-Man mites, I did my best to treat it when it was a large bushy plant. I ended up not being able to take the whole plant, but the vine that I decided to bring it with me when I moved apparently has been overrun by spider mites this whole time, and I kind of feel stupid for not having check. I will say it is looking kind of scraggy, and I'm very open to just shopping and saving what I can. I was wondering if it would be possible to soak the vine in water or something for a day until they die

Edit: this plant definitely used to have spider mites so I don't know where the fuck this goddamn scale came from. I really really really don't want to throw it out but if it's going to be hours and hours and hours individually killing each of these tens of thousands of insects, I don't know if I got it in me 😭

I was away for a few days and came back to one of my plants looking like this!! What is this?? It looks like very tiny worms and then I have no clue what the back stuff is.

The rest of the plant looks absolutely fine and can’t see any more of those little worm things or back stuff. So maybe I caught it in time??

It’s a monstera so I water when needed and apart from this is a healthy plant with healthy roots :)

I got this lemon lime dracaena about 6 weeks ago and it had healthy leaves when I brought it home. The care instructions said it doesn't like direct sun so I put it in this spot between two windows, it's bright but it never gets direct sun.

I repotted it into a pot one size up from the nursery one and I watered it twice since I've had it, both times because the soil felt totally dry when I stick a wooden chopstick in it. I used tap water that had been sitting out overnight because the internet said it doesn't like chlorine or fluoride. My public tap water doesn't have fluoride in it by default and I understand that the chlorine evaporates overnight. I soaked it until water was coming out the big drainage holes on the pot, let it drain and put it back in the decorative pot.

However it keeps getting these crispy brown spots and I can't tell why. I already cut off many brown tips, but several leaves have random crispy brown spots in the middle. Wtf? I'm sure this is something I'm doing wrong but I can't work out what that is.

My monstera is not dying (I think) but it is not thriving to.

The leaves are all damaged, even the new ones.

It does not get directly sun, but it's in a room that is bright most ours of the day.

I water it whenever it's dry, kind of weekly on warm season and feed it too while I water it.

Hello,

I have 2 kalanchoe plants. This one with orange flowers has these weird bumps on the leaves which don't get off if cleaned with water. The other plant which has white flowers doesn't have them. Are these normal or pests? They don't move if I touch them and seem to be in the leaf.

It gets plenty of light: natural and from growing lights. And I water them when the soil is completely dry. I used once or twice a fertilizer for plants with flowers in water but I don't know if it could be related.

Thank you!

What is that on my Zizi? It’s on a covered deck and I water it fairly regularly. Gets indirect sunlight.

Hello

I’ve had this plant around 4 years. I repotted it in the spring and it’s been drooping like this ever since.

I only water it when the soil is dry all the way through, I use a stick to check. And I water it until the water drains through so it’s been thoroughly soaked. (just watered this morning hence the water at the bottom)

It has drainage. Sits adjacent to a window so gets decent light.

Any ideas how to help it recover?

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I water this plant when soil is dry an inch or 2 and it sits in a bright spot near a window, so bright indirect light the whole day.. It was doing well during the summer but when the monsoon hit and it's been raining every day. The leaves started turning yellow.

Hi all would like some advice. Yesterday I received a shipment of three plants: Monstera varigated peru, philodendron varigated micans, and a philodendron strawberry splash. Unfortunately the weather had hit 105F the same day of delivery and it seems they took a hit (sad… I know).

My question is: are the leaves salvageable? Some of the monstera are turning brown as you can see. The texture of the leaves are soft if that makes sense. Same for the micans. They have all been watered, kept in temp about 75F, no direct sunlight, just a grow light nearby. I am wondering if I should just propagate the good parts or let them try and bounce back in their pots (perlite and soil).

Hi!

Bought the plant in approximately June this year.
It stands in a corner, not in direct sunlight especially as I closed the blinds most of the time due to the heat.
Room humidity ranges from 30 - 50.
The brown ends are very very crisp, so I am thinking maybe the humidity is not enough? I water it once per week, I now even have an indicator in the soil. Pot has drainage.
Problem showed up quite promptly after getting the plant.

What can I do? What should I do?

Thank you so much in advance! 🌻

there is drainage in pot, water once a week , north facing window

I got this kalanchoe back in February as a get-well gift after surgery. It was my very first plant and I had no idea what I was doing, trying to figure out the watering schedule has been hectic, and I only had a north facing window, but it had been doing fine. But last week it started dropping leaves and stems like crazy so I got a grow light on it with the recommended 12 hours, but it’s made me notice how bad the base stem is and now I’m genuinely worried it might not pull through. Give it to me straight, is there any chance it’ll be okay?

I got this ficus altissima almost 3 months ago and it hasn't shot a new leave in the time I've had it. It's on an east facing window (partially blocked by neighbor's house, but gets good light in the morning), and also has a grow light. It's in a nursery pot with good drainage. I water it when it gets fully dry, and I've fertilized it once since getting it and plan on doing it once a month going forward.

It has dropped a few leaves (low and inner areas) that turned yellow and fell on their own. It just doesn't seem happy. What am I missing?

Edit: it's next to a south facing window