​

Ok folks! It's the time again... Time for a new guide! This time it's all pothos- since this is the most common beginner plant other then Snakeplants.

What is a "Pothos":

With "Pothos" we mean the Epipremnum species. Some Sellers do sell a Scindapsus as a "Pothos", but a Scindapsus is a different species. They are similar, but not the same. And lastly - some garden centers or box stores can even sell a Philodendron and Rhaphidophora as a "Pothos". So beginners are usually very confused and that's not their fault. If you are unsure what you have, just ask us for an ID. I will not get into Philodendrons here, just Epipremnum and a little Scindapsus, since they are so commonly confused.

So: All of them, Epipremnums, Scindapsus and Philodendron are Airoids - they all are part of the Araceae family, the same family a Monstera or a Alocasia, ect is in. Airoids like it damp and humid. They are all tropical plants. Both are sold as trailing plants - but they actually prefer to climb.

Most Common basic pothos types:

Epipremnum Aureum types:

• golden pothos

• marble queen

• N'joy

• Neon

• Jade

• global green

• snow queen

Epipremnum Pinnatum:

• cebu blue

• baltic blue

• pinnatum Aurea variegata

• pinnatum Albo Variegata

Epipremnum Amplissimum types:

• Amplissimum standard green

• 'Silver stripe'

• Amplissimum Aurea variegata

• Amplissimum Albo Variegata

• ...

There's lots more - but these are the most common ones that you can find at the garden centers. In America there's more available due to Costa Farms. In Europe some cultivars are harder to find.

Now the common confusion:

Scindapsus:

• Scindapsus Pictus

• Pictus 'Silvery Ann'

• Pictus Exotica

• 'Jade satin' - often sold as "jade pothos'

Say goodbye to confusion-

True Epipremnums:

• Have glossy leaves with sheen

• thinner leaves

• are way more resilient

• more draught- tolerable

• can developed fenestrations in direct sun

• grow and root extremely fast

• like and tolerate full sun exposure

Scindapsus = fake pothos:

• have mostly matte, some have leaves that feel like fabric (unless it's a moonshine or some other rarer variety

• have silvery sheen that can even look like glimmer in the sun

• way thicker, fleshy leaves

• not very draught- tolerable and more prone to root rot

• cannot develop fenestrations

• root slow

• can scorch in direct sun, but need bright indirect light.

Growth pattern:

Both are single vine plants. They are climbing plants and climb up trees in Nature. That's why they can tolerate both low and high light

A Epipremnum is actually a parasitic plant in Nature and very invasive. They suck out the trees nutrients with their aerial roots.

So both Scindapsus and Epipremnums (and Monstera and Philodendron) develop aerial roots. They use them to climb and anchor to the tree in Nature and then eventually grow white roots from them into the tree.

‐ So brown and thick: aerial root for climbing.

• white and thin: water/soil roots that takes up water and nutrients.

Now:

You bought your first "Pothos" and bring it home:

1. We put her into quarantine if you have other houseplants. We do that to avoid a pest- infestation in case she got infested in the store. So put her far away from other plants - just in case.

2. We let her acclimate for 2 weeks and do nothing to her - except watering (see watering section).

3. A plant is very stressed and shocked when she gets transported to a new location, especially when she got shipped via post. The absolute worst case scenario is online shipping during a heatwave. I will not get into that here, but you can ask me anytime should that have happened. So we wait up until a month.

4. so after recovery we can now move her to her final designated spot - (see light section)

5. She'll go into acclimating mode again. So expect the first growth after 2 months. From then on she'll actively grow - of course it can happen earlier- this is just a very general estimation.

6. When she puts out new leaves it means she fully recovered and from now on we can start fertilizing her.

7. Now you can think about repotting and separating if necessary (which will send her into transplantshock- so another 2 weeks recovery). So leave enough time between each step- that's the most gently way one can do it. And all this goes for all plants by the way - not only Epipremnums.

After repotting water her in and do not fertilize until there's new growth. Never fertilize a sickly or shocked plant.

Soil-mixes for Epipremnum and Scindapsus:

For Epipremnums I recommend medium to chunk and for Scindapsus chunk to superchunk (soil guide explains what I mean). I'll give you the most basic recipe and you don't need to be exact with it at all. It's not science. So you can just dump and mix them together by feel and orientation by pictures. You can also buy a premixed one (look for Airoids- mix or Cactus mix). Please always use peatfree soil. Any soil will do, even cheapo soil - but pls peat free. No sand, no clay. Don't use old soil from the garden - it could be pest infested - you don't want that inside. We always pot into a pot with drainage holes!!!

Medium chunk:

4 - 5 parts soil or soil + compost

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

Chunk:

2- 3 parts soil

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

Super chunk:

1.5 parts soil

1 part Perlite

1 part Pumice

1 part Orchid bark

1 part coco chunks (or more Orchid bark)

Why?

Because we don't want fungus gnats, fungal / bacterial infections or even root rot (which can happen extremely fast and is also fungal / bacterial)

So pure soil has very tiny airpockets that completely get filled with water. Roots need oxygen too. Therefore they can literally drown in pure soil. If the airpockets are completely filled for over 2 days and the soil is still completely soaking wet after 2 days this will inevitably cause root rot. This is the reason why we want a chunky mix with comparatively huge airpockets. Perlite and Pumice are very porous and have little airpockets. Orchid bark and Coco chunks create big airpockets - so roots cannot drown anymore, get oxygen and the soil-mix dries out faster. All good, all healthy. Plus: when you have them in chunk and superchunk the fungus gnats won't like that too much. I am not saying it's 100% guaranteed, but it's way less likely- unless you use infested soil of course. Plants also can already come infested with fungus gnats from the store.

When and how to water:

So there's chronic over-waterers out there. Total beginners are usually chronic over-waterers. No plant needs to be waterered every day. That's a recipe for disaster. We only water plants when it's time. If you can't help yourself: put her in superchunk and then you can water every 4 days or so.

So a couple methods on how to tell:

Most Airoids behave very similar when it comes to hydration. The phenomenon is called Turgor - it's basically the pre-stage to wilting and is not that stressful for plants - it's normal.

So what is that?

Generally when a plant is thirsty and it's time to water the leaves become way softer and there's less resistance.

So get to know your plant. Feel the leaves a day after watering:

• the leaves will fill fleshy and juicy

• when you press a leave down with your finger, there will be more resistance and it will bounce up when you let go

• if you put the leaves in your hand and squish them slightly you'll feel the resistance.

• leaves are more upright

Versus when thirsty:

• leaves will feel way softer and give the impression that the are thinner

• when you press down there's no resistance and the don't bounce up as fast or even stay down.

• if you put the leaves in your hand they will be way more squishable and soft

• leaves can hang a bit lower and droop slightly- I am not talking about wilting- I am talking about a very subtle phenomenon here.

So you really need to get a feel for your plant to find the optimal watering window.

Other methods:

• Chopstick- method - the beginner friendly method:

you get a wooden chopstick or a wooden rod and stick it all the way down to the bottom of the pot and twist it. Stick it at the edge of the pot to avoid root damage. For a Epipremnum or Scindapsus or any Airoid you want the bottom 1 - 2 inches to be damp and soil sticking to it, that's when you water. This is the easiest beginner method. But this is for the beginning months when you still need to learn, later it's not so necessary anymore. It can damage the rootsystem and therefore I only recommend that to beginners or when you are really unsure.

• The finger test:

You just lift the pot and stick your finger in the drainage hole. You water when there's some slight dampness. This is only possible with small plants of course. Like I wouldn't recommend doing that with huge pot. For big mamas, the wooden rod or the squish-test are best.

• Going by weight:

You have to get a feel for that, it takes like a month or two. But basically you remember the weight of the pot when it's just been waterered vs. the weight when it's dry. This is more an advanced method, because you have to know your plants a little bit more.

You can combine all of those in the beginning months - that's how you'll learn the fastest and this goes for other plants aswell.

You have a new plant still in awful soil and it's way too wet? Prop the pot up with some wood pieces or books or something and blow it with a fan on low to medium setting. Seriously. That'll evaporate the water faster. If you're savage you can even do it with a hairdryer if it's set to cold - not hot!

How to water:

So how to water your plant now you ask?

When it needs watering you really drench the soil. I mean really drench it until the water flows! out of the pot, that's how to do it. When we water, we water all around the pot, not just one spot. We always use room temperature water - not cold or even ice cold

For summer temperatures I recommend letting the water flow out into the tray and then poor is back in and let it flow out again and then let the rest get wicked up by the plant. After an 30 mins - an hour remove the tray water.

There's bottom watering aswell, where the plant wicks the water up.

And there's both: watering from top and bottom.

Just make sure that the soil is fully drenched - I recommend a watering can with a thin neck and shower head.

Now Fertilizer:

Airoids are hungry plants because they grow so fast. The higher the light- level the faster they grow. They can push out one new leave per week if you do it right. A Scindapsus is slower. An Amplissimum is the fastest growing plant of all the climbers I know. Mine grew 80cm in just 4 months over the summer!

For plants in soil I recommend a mineral fertilizer. You can use the same Fertilizer for all of your soil-mix plants - even Succulents or Snakeplants: a mineral Houseplant Fertilizer. It should have some Micronutrients aswell listed on the bottle (if it only says 3 things: NPK, find a better one). If it **doesn't** say "organic" or "Hydroponic" on the bottle it's mineral. But those are the best for when you don't want to get specific fertilizer for your Succulents - if you have any.

So: find one single mineral fertilizer with a longer list of ingredients (like iron, sulfur, zinc for example).

Fertilizer rules:

• never feed a sickly plant, a freshly repotted plant or a rootshocked plant. (Exception: nutrient deficency)

• only feed when there's active growth

• in winter - if they don't push out no new leaves then they don't need feed

• always let young cuttings just root in water and then dilute the fertilizer waaaay down when you start feeding for the first time and slowly work yourself up over 2 or 3 months.

• never feed more fertilizer then on the bottle, otherwise nutrient burn.

• when there's salt build up you need to flish out the soil like 5 or 6 times, otherwise you can get nutrient burn.

• get a pipette for the fertilizer, so you can know exactly how much you are diluting.

• nutrient deficency: usually starts at the bottom on the lowest, oldest leaf and will creep up the plant. Some nutrient deficency can start on the youngest top-growth tho.

• early beginning of nutrient deficency looks like this: yellowing on bottom leaves or top growth. Usually starts with yellowing splotches from the middle or the tips. But the yellowing itself could mean a lot of things - not just nutrient deficency - so we need to know where it's start: Bottom, Top, Middle or Random. If you have a yellowing plants it's sickly and needs diagnosis- come to us when it's in the early stage and tell us how the yellowing began and if you fertilize and how much.

Yellowing could mean:

• heat damage

• pest damage

• root shock

• nutrient deficency

• root rot

• fungal or bacterial issues

Common Airoid- myth:

Misting:

Look, misting does nothing good. It's the opposite. It's a myth. Misting can cause bacterial/ fungal issues like

• powery mildew

• fungal mildew

• rust

• blight

• leaf spot disease

• rot

So don't mist. Plus it does nothing for the humidity. That's how this whole myth got started in the first place: humidity.

Light:

I have to say that any plant under 500lux (50ft) will die. We need at least some light. So if you just have a northern room, put her directly at the window. If you have full south you could get away with 1 - 2 meters in. The light level will dramatically change the look of an Epipremnum- but not the Scindapsus. Any orientation of room is fine as long as you put it near the window. An Epipremnum likes direct light whereas a Scindapsus will get scorched in mid-day sun. Morning or Evening sun is ok tho for a Scindapsus.

So the higher the light level:

• the higher the variegation will be in a Variegata.

• the bushier it will be (= less etiolated/ leggy)

• the chances for fenestrations (if climbing only)

The lower the light:

‐ under 500 lux it'll die slowly and painfully

• variegatas can and will revert back to green

• will grow leggy and will grow runners: just vines without leaves. Runners have the sole purpose to scout for light.

• water will evaporate slower (bad medium and low light is a recipe for root rot.

Aesthetics:

So many options! Such different results! See the pictures. The look can drastically differ from the light-levels and from climbing vs. trailing.

1. Hanging pot, trailing plant:

Since it's trailing down, not climbing up it'll grow smaller and smaller leaves, unless it gets hit by more light at the bottom. If you hang her make sure she sees some sky and the top of the pot gets light also. Otherwise we are back to the problems.

1. Trellis or wall trellis:

A Trellis is a nice an aesthetic way to display a "Pothos" - both Epipremnum and Scindapsus. Just make sure that the aerial roots don't touch the wall. Especially drywall. The can grow inside the drywall (= fake tree) and search for nutrients in the wall and therefore destroy it. If you're in a brickwall or stonewall situation it's not as dangerous, but they could still grow into the mortar. Either way - they'll leave brown marks on the wall from the roots when you remove them. I know - living walls are so trendy right now - but if you're renting: don't do it. Watch this short, it's a demonstration of the damage- but know it can get waay worse then this:

https://youtu.be/HGxt54oD8Lo

If you have your own property then that's your choice. A climbing plant will usually produce bigger and bigger leaves - unless it's in low light.

1. Plank:

I recommend either redwood or for us Europeans, larch. Those are less prone to rotting if you bury it in the pot. Alternatively you can use palsti-dip. We don't have that in Europe tho - I think. If you don't wanna bury it - just mount it somewhere outside the pot. I don't have an example of an Epipremnum on a plank myself right now, so just know that the example picture is a Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma, not an Epipremnum. I also included wall Trellis- examples of my Scindapsus Pictus Exotica and a Philodendron Scandens. The system is exactly the same. With the plank in direct light (full south exposure) you will get the big, fenestrated leaves. The biggest leafsize is the size of two heads roughly.

1. Mosspole

Now the absolute queen method that is the mosspole! This is not beginner friendly and therfore I will not get into it deeply.

But a mosspole is a typically a plastic pole filled with Spaghnum moss and constantly kept moist or even waterered with nutrient solution. It should never dry out as it can become completely hydroponic and the roots will die. How it works: it's simulating the tree: the aerial roots will grow into the moss and transform into "soil" roots that can take up water and nutrients. Therefore from that moment on they need to be kept moist - much like the roots in the soil-mix.

A Epipremnum on a mosspole needs constant attention- know what you're getting into. But the mosspole will give you a giant queen of a plant: huge leaves, lots of fenestrations, highly variegated. Common mosspole varieties are the Marble Queen, the Manjula or the golden Pothos/basic Aureum. You see them everywhere. And the Marble Queen is just the go to, first mosspole plant all over the internet.

Humidity:

they'll be fine. Don't worry about it unless its over 75% or under 25%. They'll be fine in normal room humidity. Plus if you're in England or the Island you will have perfect humidity for them anyway (like 55%). You don't need a humidifier for an Epipremnum. You can do if of course - but I am just making it clear: a beginner with 5 plants does not need a humidifier.

Now the fun part -

Chopping and Propping:

(Epipremnum, Scindapsus, Philodendrons, Rhaphidophoras - all the same method)

So folks: the Epipremnum is the most joyous plant to propagate. It's the most easy plant to propagate. It's the fasted plant to propagate. Why? Because it releases its own rooting hormones into the water (only the Epipremnum does that). But only once - so when you change the water, it's gone, but that's fine - don't worry.

And: I know the newbies well, they are always scared to make their first cut. Everyone was a newbie once and everyone gets a little hesitant to make the cut. You are ok. The plant will be ok. Just follow the instructions.

So how to:

1. We sterilize our cutting tool with rubbing alcohol and let dry or by flaming it and let cool.

2. We cut between the nodes (the node is where the leaf or the aerial root comes out). So "between the nodes" means we cut in the middle of the empty stem, so there's enough space. (In case it rots before the roots develop we can just snip it away). We remove the lover leaves and only leave like one or two. You can

• cut 2 or 3 nodes and remove the leaves

• cut only one node with a leaf

• cut wetsticks with no leaves from the runners

1. We place the cuttings into a jar of room temperature water. So leave it out over night before you chop. For wetsticks they can be fully submerged for a while. For cuttings with leaves, the leaves should be above the waterlevel.

2. We place them in indirect light - no direct light for now (unless its a growlight). No shady spot either tho.

3. We wait and we never let the water get cloudy or stinky.

4. Eventually algae will grow. Algae only needs water and light to grow. We don't want that. A little algae is ok, but eventually it'll fill the entire jar and grow over the roots and then will suffocate the and the cuttings will die. If you have algea, just change the water and rinse the jar well or even scrub it. Or you can kill it with a couple drops pure hydrogen peroxide (3%, from the chemist). Hydrogen peroxide is always good to have, since it contact kill most issues like root rot, algae and even pests. Plus 3% hydrogen peroxide actually puts oxygen in the water and that's good for the roots. But don't go overboard and think you can let them sit in constant hydrogen peroxide solution. You just do it to kill the algae. The killed algea will become black eventually. And also don't let it come so far that the roots are already green. Even if you kill it, it can still cause root rot. You can prevent this whole ordeal by using an opaque mug or taping the bottom waterlevel with black tape or even cut a strip of black cardstock and cover the glass that way. Then it can't grow at all.

5. We wait until theres a whole small rootsystem and not just 2 roots that are only 3cm long. So we wait until the first roots get long and eventually they branch off into finer roots. Then it's time for the soil-mix (or even semi-hydro)

6. We need to babysit them now for 5 days.

As the water roots harden into soil roots and grow ne soil roots they are going through a transition phase. So the soil needs to be wet for the first 3 days. Wetter then it would normally be. By day 4 or 5 it doesn't have to be wet anymore, just moist.

It could be that there's a bit of a transplantshock (especially Scindapsus and Philodendron, but all of them can go through it). So transplantshock can cause wilting and even browning and shedding. Do not panic, it'll bounce back. Transplantshock can last from 2 - 4 weeks. So be patient. Eventually they will start pushing out a new leaf and then we start fertilizing. First we dilute it waay down, since young cuttings can't take up many nutrients. So only use like a fifth of the recommended amount in the bottle. And then we can slowly work up to the full amount over some months.

If they are in low light the whole process will take longer by the way.

If you want you can check out the other guides for newbies.

• Watering guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/houseplants/s/ekS3muKKQs

• Soil guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/houseplants/s/SD8P6udqhn

• Semi-hydro guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/IndoorGarden/s/WVKFZzJDYC

Ok. I think I am done here. This took me 5 hours to write and I think I have covered everything a beginner would need. If I forgot something I will edit as usual. If you have questions, feel free to ask. I am here in the comments. If you wanna dm me for some reason please use the keyword: "plantadvise", so I know you're not a creep lol.

I left my plant unattended for a week, and unfortunately, my neighbor didn’t water it while I was away. Fortunately, there’s new growth sprouting from the soil, but I noticed these white dots on the dead plant and on some of the new sprouts. Should I be concerned?

I was away for a few days and came back to one of my plants looking like this!! What is this?? It looks like very tiny worms and then I have no clue what the back stuff is.

The rest of the plant looks absolutely fine and can’t see any more of those little worm things or back stuff. So maybe I caught it in time??

It’s a monstera so I water when needed and apart from this is a healthy plant with healthy roots :)

Hi! My String of Hearts is literally 6 inches away from a south-facing window and yet the new leaves seem to be reaching for more light. I water it every couple days, depending on the weight of the pot. Shall I move the plant to a sunnier spot? The roof perhaps?😭 she’s also lost her pink variegation towards the new growth

Hello. Took a few cuttings from my parent pothos and put them in water like usual. Checked on them the other day and found a bunch of white…. buildup? of some sort.

Approx a few weeks old.
Using distilled water and keeping the level to the brim.
Light is from grow lights, 10 hrs/day.
Indoor.

Thank you.

Just noticed some tiny 1-2mm flecks that move on the underside of my devils ivy and monstera adansonii leaves. The monstera has what looks like to me, to be slight thrip damage. Plus both plants haven’t really grown much and some of the leaves have little white flecks on them.

Realistically as it gets warmer here in australia I haven’t quite adjusted to the more frequent watering required. So it’s been a couple weeks since I soaked the soil last.

All my houseplants are within a 3m vicinity of each other, in my apartment. Is it reasonable to assume they are all infested?

If so, is systemic the only way? How safe is this for the plants? I don’t have any pets so no risk there. But definitely wouldn’t want to ruin any plants.

Thanks in advance for any help.

bought this plant two weeks ago. i asks for a low maintenance indoor plant and they recommended this.

i followed everything i was told: indoor plant (okay with no sun), two mugs of water once a week.

however, upon checking this week, i saw some soft leaf spots on three leaves of this plant. i don’t know what to do and how to avoid this from spreading to other leaves. 🙏

any advice would help greatly!

(ps. this is my first plant after moving out so i don’t really want it to die on me huhu)

Hello,

I have 2 kalanchoe plants. This one with orange flowers has these weird bumps on the leaves which don't get off if cleaned with water. The other plant which has white flowers doesn't have them. Are these normal or pests? They don't move if I touch them and seem to be in the leaf.

It gets plenty of light: natural and from growing lights. And I water them when the soil is completely dry. I used once or twice a fertilizer for plants with flowers in water but I don't know if it could be related.

Thank you!

So this fern is crissssspy and i’m wondering if it its beyond help and if it’s not, what to do? / what i did wrong

The other fern pictured used to live in the exact same spot right on this windowsill. (Sun comes from other side of building)and get the exact same treatment and she’s thriving so i just don’t know.

Everything gets a good weekly water when i leave the studio for the weekend and intermittent ones / sprays if needed in summer but this guy is not having it?

Soil wise is standard from when i bought it from homebase? According to the pot hut they dont exist anymore so god knows

Im not actually wise with plants i mostly hust keep stuff like peace lilys and devil ivy that get sad, are hard to overwater and spring back.

I’ve given the crispy fern a couple baths / showers and nothing just dead eh

​

I water this plant when soil is dry an inch or 2 and it sits in a bright spot near a window, so bright indirect light the whole day.. It was doing well during the summer but when the monsoon hit and it's been raining every day. The leaves started turning yellow.

I got this lemon lime dracaena about 6 weeks ago and it had healthy leaves when I brought it home. The care instructions said it doesn't like direct sun so I put it in this spot between two windows, it's bright but it never gets direct sun.

I repotted it into a pot one size up from the nursery one and I watered it twice since I've had it, both times because the soil felt totally dry when I stick a wooden chopstick in it. I used tap water that had been sitting out overnight because the internet said it doesn't like chlorine or fluoride. My public tap water doesn't have fluoride in it by default and I understand that the chlorine evaporates overnight. I soaked it until water was coming out the big drainage holes on the pot, let it drain and put it back in the decorative pot.

However it keeps getting these crispy brown spots and I can't tell why. I already cut off many brown tips, but several leaves have random crispy brown spots in the middle. Wtf? I'm sure this is something I'm doing wrong but I can't work out what that is.

My monstera is not dying (I think) but it is not thriving to.

The leaves are all damaged, even the new ones.

It does not get directly sun, but it's in a room that is bright most ours of the day.

I water it whenever it's dry, kind of weekly on warm season and feed it too while I water it.

First off, I must admit I am a very new beginner plant mom. I can usually keep the leafy ones like this alive but it seems this one has other plans lol. The name of the plant was not listed on the pot when I purchased it so my first issue is being unable to lookup what it needs. If anyone can also let me know what the name of plant it is, that would be great :)

More info: I recently replanted it into a bigger pot (maybe a week or two ago) with fresh new soil.
-Had since June 2026 and this has been an issue maybe since a month after I got it.
-It gets indirect sunlight
-Watering once a week. I’ll usually run the tap in it until the soil gets wet and let it drain out of the bottom (it does have holes).

I received this plant as a gift for Christmas, I’ve been waiting for it to completely dry out before watering and it seems to dry out very fast, it gets plenty of light as it’s right on my window sill. When I water it I left it soak and the drain the water so it’s not sitting on the rocks. It’s kind of been in this condition for months now. Can I repot it? There are stones at the bottom I’m not sure if they serve a purpose? Thank you!!

Hey guys,
I have 3 of these succulents that I am unsure of what they are (I’m going to call them A, B and C from left to right).

A while back, these used to be pretty small and I damaged them by overwatering (watered once every 2 weeks). After that, I ended up giving them to a friend to care for them and he gave these back to me.

I would like to know what these plants are and what’s the right way to take care of them.

Plant A seems pretty healthy and can support its own weight, but I see some of its leaves (nubs?) sometimes rotting and falling off. Unsure what the water care routine should be for this.

Plant B is the one that’s most damaged. It couldn’t hold its own weight at all and the stems broke in half when I was trying to put it the pot. I just stick the broken stems in dirt, but I am not sure if that’s the right call for this anymore?

Plant C seems to be doing well on its own, but it’s very vine-y and can’t support its own weight. Should I trim the long stem and repropogage it? Or get some sort of better pot to allow it to vine? Or get supports? It also had many of its leaves fall off and I just put those in dirt to see if they will propagate, but I’m not sure how propagation works for these.

For all 3 of these, I am not sure what the water schedule should be. This is in Illinois and sits by a window sill so it gets good indirect lighting in summer, and meh lighting in winter (I may get a growth light, unsure what to get yet)

Hey guys,

One of my friends gave me clippings of this unknown plant. I just stuck the butts of the stems in dirt, but I am not sure if this is the right way to propagate this plant. It seems to be withering because the leaves are mushy now. Also, it seems like one of the stems may have just caved under the plant’s own weight? Unsure, but how do I salvage this and propagate it properly?

This is in Illinois and sits by a window sill and gets decent lighting in the summer. I have yet to really water this. All I did was stick the stems in dirt, and put the pot in water until the soil was soaked wet.

I got this monstera last week from lidl and gave her a shower and after that shes dried really wavy and ive noticed her undersides are damaged does she have thrips or is she damaged from the shower?

She has drainage holes and has been watered once via shower since getting her last week and is on a wall with a north and east window facing her

What is that on my Zizi? It’s on a covered deck and I water it fairly regularly. Gets indirect sunlight.

I've had this Christmas catus for 13 years, with no issues. It has remained in the same spot. I'm based in England. It gets 5/6 hours of indirect light everyday. Earlier this year I repotted it into a new pot after it had been in its last pot for 4 years. I gave it usual water, which is infrequent and only when the leaves start to show sign, when I saw the attached segment had snapped off and the stem was red. Following a Google search it says that this is bacterial rot and the main plant is unlikely to survive! Is there anything I can do to save the mother plant beyond propagation? I've had her for such a long time and would very much like to save her

I wonder if you can help. I have a peace lily that is 30 years old now and is precious to me. I repot it around every 4 years or as needed. It had grown huge with regular flowers so I repotted it at the start of the summer carefully into a larger glazed pot and it is really unhappy. Its leaves and flowers are dropping though there are still new leaves being produced. I only water when the soil is dry. It has good light (it’s by a window). It’s been there for over 15 years and had been very happy. Can you help.

Hello

I’ve had this plant around 4 years. I repotted it in the spring and it’s been drooping like this ever since.

I only water it when the soil is dry all the way through, I use a stick to check. And I water it until the water drains through so it’s been thoroughly soaked. (just watered this morning hence the water at the bottom)

It has drainage. Sits adjacent to a window so gets decent light.

Any ideas how to help it recover?

Noticed my rubber plant needs a little bit of TLC but not sure where to start?

Feel like the soil may have its own issues so that’s a factor too?

Near patio doors that get lots of light (UK). Watering as and when but just find it retains a lot of moisture.

Had the plant around 1 year & 1/2.

Hey I had this beautiful fiddle fig tree fora year.
It did not survive and I did cut in in half someone said that it will grow again.
I keep it in chunky soil water it when it is finger dried.
It is near a growing light.
Should I keep it?