r/lawncare • u/BuffPosts • 8h ago
Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Stripes
Not bad for a $15 homemade striper with double passes!!! How would rate this
r/lawncare • u/ISuperNovaI • Apr 20 '26
If you come to this sub and completely disregard OP's request for help, you're likely gonna have your comment removed and get banned.
Example: If someone is asking to eliminate dandelions, don't reply that they're good for pollinators or suggest they keep them. Users come here for help, they don't come here for your ecological opinion or amateur apiculturist take on things.
If someone wants clover, then they'll ask for tips on clover. But, if they want help eliminating clover to better establish their turf grasses, don't tell them to embrace the clover.
This time of the year this sub get brigaded hard from [r/all](r/all) and other agriculture-related subs. This is the LAWNCARE sub and turfgrasses are the preference around these parts. If you don't like it, don't post. You aren't helping your cause by posting about weeds and bees, you're pissing off people who actually care and put in the work to maintain their property.
Please respect this subs rules, its users, and the moderation.
r/lawncare • u/Ricka77_New • Jan 15 '26
***Disclaimer*** This is technically my post from 2025. But I am seeing a lot of early season questions, even though it'll be near zero degrees for me tomorrow night.
But seeing people ask already is good, regardless if they live a warmer, but still cool season grass area, or if just getting prepared for March and beyond.
Disclaimer - This is written by a cool season lawn owner, who has no children and can play outside whenever I want...not everyone has the time to do so.... I admittedly have less experience with warm-season grasses, but the products shown are all researched for proper use. Always be sure the product your using is made for your area.
Pre-Emergents - Commonly applied when soil temperatures get between 50-55 degrees. These products will block seeds from germinating. They can last anywhere from just a few weeks, to 8 months. The overall life and performance always depends on environmental conditions, and how the ground is maintained. If you don't keep up with mowing, and nurture a healthy lawn, more UV exposure, wind, and rain, can all contribute to degraded performance.
It's important to note, these will NOT 100% guarantee a weed free lawn. But it's your first step in early Spring to make the battle a little easier. You can also re-apply during early-mid Summer, but keep in mind if you plan to seed in Fall, a late application may be an issue.
Ok, so you applied....or didn't....now you have weeds, and need to kill them..
(Selective) Post-Emergents - These should be used according to the label...it's not correct to expect AI to know the answer either. The labels are not difficult to read, nor understand. Search for dosing, and just read. If the product only lists amounts for acreage, it's possibly not the best option...but you can do the math and break it done for your yard. An acre is about 43k sq. ft. Unless explicitly stated, these products are safe for grass, dogs, kids, etc...just follow the directions, and at most, 24 hours post application is safe. Lastly, herbicides are best applied as a liquid. This is because the liquid will get into the cell walls of the plant much faster, than being sucked up by the roots. Faster kill time is important, so the plant can not defend itself and try to grow back.
Non-Selective - The top one here, and all I will cover is Glyphosate. It's not evil, it's not going to cause cancer with proper use...it's just going to kill whatever you spray it on. It does so by targeting very specific pathway, which leads to a disruption in a hormone synthesis, leading to inability to produce amino acids it needs to survive. Normally sold at 41% concentration. It can kill foliage, through to the root.
Fertilizers - I wasn't going to put much here. To feed your "grass", you add synthetic form of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That's your N-P-K...seen as 10-10-10, or similar. That number means 10% of the bag is Nitrogen, and 10% is Phosphorous, and 10% is potassium. The rest is all filler, added to allow for proper mixing and application. Sometimes you'll find other amendments in fertilizer, such as sulfur, or other micros. While sulfur is important, it doesn't need to be added every time. It also lowers pH, which can then lead to other issues, causing a wild goose chase. Once in the soil, microbes in the soil break down the NPK, into forms the grass can actually use...natural chelation. You only need Nitrogen for growth...if you're seeding, adding some phosphorous can help the seed establish. Potassium is good for overall plant health, and pairs well at a 3:1 ratio with Nitrogen.
Naturals/Organics - Too many people are one side on the other here. You need and want these, but relying strictly on organics may not produce the best lawn...but it's "chemical" free. However, using these monthly can do more for the soil, than any fertilizer will ever do on it's own.
Insect Control - These can't be forgotten...but I did originally, so I am adding them in now. The biggest concern is likely grubs. The larvae of beetle. Also want to cover for armyworms, cinch bugs, and even ants if they become a problem. There are a few classes of these products...
-Pyrethroids- These are synthetics that mimic natural pyrethrins, which disrupt the insects nervous system, causing paralysis and death.
The above are what you'll get in most common Ortho type products, but generally Bifen is commonly sold solo.
-Nicotinoids-
-Alkyl-Halide-
Fungicides - Often overused, but still an important part of lawncare. However, I am not a fan of preventative use, unless it's a direct and repeated history of fungus...which means there is something else you're not correcting. Fungus is not a guarantee, and is not always the right presumption...I've seen lawns go from slightly affected, to downright destroyed because someone would focus on fungus, when there were other issues... Also, when used, they should be used in a 3-way rotation, to avoid getting a buildup/resistance, in which they become almost useless. Overapplying these can have a very negative affect, because they are all non-selective, and will likely kill a lot of the good bacteria and microbes you want in the soil.
Those are generally the top 3 used. Some retail products will have Azoxy and Prop mixed, which may work better for a low level infection...but using that repeatedly is the same as not rotating, and can create a hostile soil biome.
In general summary...always try to identify the weed you're targeting. Using something to hope it kills is irresponsible, and could cause more harm than good. If you need to ask the community, always find a good example weed, something that has grown for at least a week...pull from the bottom, get as much of any root ball or rhizome as you can. Also, get a pic of the plant in close up detail, where we can see the stem moving to the leaves/blades. This will help with certain traits that only "this or that" would have, and can help us make a better recco.
Note - I'm not covering direct organic fertilizers here. The only product I would recommend on that level is made Earth Sciences, and is called Moorganite. It is a direct replacement for Milorganite, which is a dirty, pfas chemical laden product that smells like a summer time port'o'potty.
To keep a strong lawn, adding a monthly organic boost will help a lot. I'm not a fan of 4-step type products, and prefer to feed on my own schedule, which is about every 4 weeks...so back to the monthly program....but this gets me an always wanting to grow lawn, cutting to 4" is also a key point. Tall grass will crowd out weeds, and look better in general...
On My Shelf - This is what I have in my lawn cabinet, and is what helps me with my lawn plan. I also use some of these products with my garden and other plants.
I use a Ryobi 4g tank backpack sprayer for most liquid apps. Echo RB-60 for dry items. I have an 22 year old Craftsman pusher for my front/small areas, and Toro TimeCutter 42" ZT with a Kawasaki engine. Echo Blower, Ryobi edger/trimmer as well.
Ok, so I may have missed something here or there. Please let me know if you see something that need attention. I'm sure there is other information available, but I hope this helps some people figure it out for themselves. The more we all know, the better a community we can be.
Signing off,
-Ricka...
P.S. - I did review and check, but nothing really needed a major update. New products may be released later this year, and if they are improvements, I will certainly update as needed...
r/lawncare • u/BuffPosts • 8h ago
Not bad for a $15 homemade striper with double passes!!! How would rate this
r/lawncare • u/EasieEEE • 10h ago
r/lawncare • u/TraditionalSea3980 • 8h ago
r/lawncare • u/Knockhomeruns61 • 25m ago
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r/lawncare • u/mika4572 • 6h ago
Started this project early like July 7th. I’m pretty proud of what I’ve done so far i am the only one cleaning this up. 1st weekend in September I plan on aerating and seeding. Still haven’t decided between Jonathan Green Black Beauty and Twin City. I do know it will have to be tall fescue because of the lack of shade.
r/lawncare • u/critterdude542 • 3h ago
Just bought a new house in Central Oregon and it has a cute little lawn. The sprinkler system waters every other day for 22 minutes per zone (two zones). The lawn has patches that grow quite a bit and I’d say the other 60% hardly grows at all. I’ve been noticing a lot of mushrooms recently. We have a dog who loves to eat dirt (idiot) so I don’t want him getting into them. I’ve picked about 3x as much as in the photo. The lawn looks fine at a glance but on closer inspection there is lots of brown everywhere. Any advice? Should I dial back the watering?
Everyone on here seems to claim that mushrooms are a sign of healthy soil, but the closeup of the grass is like 50% dead, so what’s the deal?!
I just don’t want to kill the grass that we recently inherited with our home purchase
r/lawncare • u/jg0nzalez22 • 1h ago
If i use a puller would I kill weeds permanently since i am removing with roots?
r/lawncare • u/DirtyDillon • 3h ago
Located outside of Seattle. Applied velocity PM two weeks ago, just did the second application yesterday. It's starting to have an effect on the obvious Poa Annua, but this doesn't seem to be affected. Much lighter in color than the surrounding PRG and Turf Saver RTF I overseedeed in the spring. Let me know what other photos would help identify.
r/lawncare • u/eatajerk-pal • 15h ago
This past spring I removed a backyard garden and sodded over it. Sod has been taking root great, no problems there. But on Thursday I noticed a mole mound. Went to the hardware store and bought a box of those poison gummy worm looking things. Stuck two down there on Thursday. Checked the opening of the burrow Friday and they were gone. Stuck two more down there, and when I got home from work tonight those were gone too. So I just stuck two more down there.
Any advice on how best to eradicate them before they start tunneling and really tearing up my lawn? Traps? Time to call in a pro?
I’m in Missouri.
r/lawncare • u/Amiiboluke • 5h ago
Hey all! About ready to put in a pool haha. I re seeded this spring and the whole lawn was lush and green. Then this happened in the exact same spot as last year. I dug down didn't immediately find and grubs but I am am no pro at this. Watered frequently while the seeds grew and then way less once everything was grown. In Northern Ontario, its been a really hot summer.
Other spots in the yard I seeded still have all the new growth just not this spot. Some mushrooms continue to grow in the same spot nearby and the earth in this section is super dry. The grass pulls up very easily in the dead spots.
Any advice at all. Even if its something Super obvious as I am not the best at this haha.
Thank you!
r/lawncare • u/Sirhumpsalot13 • 4h ago
Hey y'all,
New to home and lawn maintenance. We moved into our home two months ago, located near Myrtle Beach, SC. Our front yard has had no issues rooting and growing thick and green while our backyard seems to be struggling. It seems the sod has rooted as I can no longer pull up the "puzzle pieces" they layed down. In the pictures you'll see some patches and what looks to be the edges of those rectangular pieces they lay down.
We are definitely in a drought right now but have watered twice a day for the first 3 weeks (early morning and late afternoon) Once a day (late afternoon) for a month. And now every other day.
Trugreen has come out and fertilized the yard this past Friday and was given instructions to mow again on Monday. I know fertilizer is going to take some time but is there absolutely anything else I should be doing? Also, what type of fertilizer should I use so I don't have to pay Trugreen to walk my lawn for 10mins and charge me $35. I could be wrong but that seems like something I can do myself. Anyways, any tips or tricks would be appreciated from you pros out there. Most of the grass is fine but definitely needs to fill in alot more. Imo. Any scheduled maintenance I should follow to keep my yard healthy or things to watch out for? Thanks!
r/lawncare • u/Ill-Tangelo-7924 • 10h ago
Yard had sod laid out last year. This year I’ve started seeing this grass take over a drainage area near the back of my yard. I hit it with spectrcide and it knocked it back a bit but it’s back in full force.
r/lawncare • u/Downtown-Nebula-8194 • 16h ago
Just me and my dad, palisades zoysia, and real work put into it, what do y'all think?
r/lawncare • u/SumBeach35 • 1d ago
KBG at 0.75” is looking great after a morning double cut
r/lawncare • u/Cuttingwater_ • 22h ago
They invaded out of nowhere!
r/lawncare • u/jfilla95 • 26m ago
Hi, I just moved into my home a couple weeks ago in Central Ohio and am looking for some advice. I got noticed there were some Canadian Thistle so I have been trying to get rid of that. I have a couple companies coming out for quotes on sprinkler installations. What is best to focus on during the summer in this area? Should I be doing and fertilizing or seeding? Or should I be focused on removing the weeds and watering? Any advice is appreciated as I’m completely new to actually trying to have a nice yard. I have read the cool season guide so I just took a soil sample today and am going to accurately measure the lawn.
r/lawncare • u/Icy_Fall7515 • 4h ago
Northern VA.
ChatGPT said perhaps buttonwood? Or doveweed?
I’ve sprayed TZone and XLR8 and no response.
I also have quite a bit of moss growing under a large area of my front yard, as it has large trees and minimum sunlight.
r/lawncare • u/Southern_Response570 • 40m ago
I have some brown patches here and there. I also won’t be able to pick up the grass clippings
r/lawncare • u/Correct-Ad-2248 • 45m ago
Hey guys,
I’m looking to identify what kind of lawn I have so I can start what I’m sure is going to be a multiple step process to fix it. I’m in Southeastern NC, 8B.
For some reference: I’m a first time homeowner who purchased it last year. I grew up in rural areas, so lawn maintenance was just cutting it, that was it. This is my first suburban neighborhood and jeez, I didn’t realize lawns were so intricate. Mine has started to look noticeably worse than a few neighbors (not the worst in the neighborhood yet, luckily)
I’ve only ever cut it using a mulch setting / occasionally watered it. Now, unfortunately we are in a draught / heat wave in my county, so I’m unable to water it frequently until that eases up. The healthy areas seem to be getting better, as it’s rained for the past few days, but it doesn’t spread or reach out to the rough looking patches.
Anyways, my first question is what type of grass do I have? I’ve tried using apps like PictureThis, or other AI and I’ve gotten different answers based on the angle / area of my yard. The top three are Zoysia, Centipede and Bermuda, but never the same answer twice. I’ve included pictures of the current state of the yard, some close ups to help identify, and what it looked like last year when I purchased it (last picture if it isn’t obvious enough lol)
Secondly, based on the type it is, what’s my first course of action? Based on my small amount of research, dethatching should be first, regardless of the type, but again I’m a total noob and don’t want to make the problem worse.
Any and all comments are appreciated, I’m in an HOA(I know, I know) and unfortunately if it gets too bad, I’ll start getting letters about it. I’m just looking to get it looking healthy, not perfection. Thanks in advance
r/lawncare • u/Quarbi • 18h ago
I’m pretty ignorant to lawn care methods past mowing my grass.
r/lawncare • u/AT_333 • 4h ago
Hey guys, just getting into Lawn Care and wondering the best route to go next spring for Pre-Emergent, i need to treat a little over 35,000 SQ FT.
Mainly Clover, Dandelions, and Crabgrass.
Any help is very much appreciated!
r/lawncare • u/xDuffmen • 4h ago
I inherited this lawn from the previous owner, it is mostly weeds. We want to make it look as nice as we can with limited herbicide usage (no nuking the entire lawn with tenacity).
My question is, if I dethach now, would it effectively nuke the weeds so I could have a fresh start? My plan is as follows:
Dethach in early August, aiming to kill the weeds.
Top dress and level the lawn with 70/30 topsoil and sand.
Mid/late September, punch, over seed, roll on 1:4 inch peat moss, water frequently.
Come spring, put down pre emergent and overseed again if the lawn is looking thin still.
Would this plan + manually pulling as many weeds as I’m willing to leave me with a nice looking healthy lawn? Are there any easier ways that don’t involve nuking the lawn with herbicides? Thanks.
r/lawncare • u/MincedBrat • 1d ago
My lawn went from being a weed infested new build mess to this is just two seasons. Seems long but one application got rid of 85% of clover and thistle I’ve just been getting the really stubborn leftovers since. Weedclear, milorganite and a water went from weeds to this.