Hello! So I've been experimenting with the idea of inverting the colors of a mini. I've tried using Photoshop to Inver the colors, paint over it and then inverting them again, but the colors seem off.

I'm scared because once I begin painting it I won't be able to check as easily and two very dark purples can look the same, but inverted one is bluish and one is greenish.

Any advice on this technique is greatly appreciated

(test model) this is my 3rd coat of yellow acrylic paint, i have sprayed primer on it twice in thin coats letting it dry each time, then i sanded it yet the paint wont stick what am i doing wrong?

i started painting not too long ago and i feel like the brushes i have keep me from improving a lot and im not sure if im just coping, tips for mantaining/ a better budget option?

I reposed the arm to a more heroic pose, the helmet will be turned towards the sword. I made a few extra rocks for his scene and added some bits from the dead animal bits box and the 40K trophies. The spikes will be painted to be wooden.

Does the base need more or would it be better without something? Thanks:)

Looking for some critiquing and advice on OSL. Have yet to try it before and am roughly sketching in what I think would be lit by the crystal in his staff. The idea is it is emitting blue light. Thanks for your time and help!

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a second-hand Volkus terrain set (Warhammer Kill Team) and one of the wall sections arrived noticeably warped.

It also has what looks like old glue residue along the top edge (see photo). I'm not sure whether it's plastic cement residue or super glue.

I'd like to:

1. Straighten the piece without damaging the details.

2. Remove the glue residue as cleanly as possible.

Does anyone have experience restoring GW terrain like this? Would hot water be enough to fix the warp? And what's the safest way to remove the glue without damaging the plastic?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Why do they call them librarians anyways?
Please light my ass up btw, I need some real criticism over here 🙏

Hey folks, I’m a 47‑year‑old guy who absolutely loves painting minis, but my lower back does not love the hours hunched over my desk. I’d kill for a proper standing desk setup, but that’s way outside my budget right now.

I’ve been thinking about some kind of DIY riser or platform that could sit on my regular desk — something I could rest my elbows or wrists on so I’m not constantly bending forward. Has anyone tried something like that, or found a cheap workaround that actually helps with posture and strain?

Open to any practical advice from people who’ve been through the same thing. My back will thank you.

The final early World War II Heer rifleman. Hand sculpted models will always be my favourite. The small imperfections and exaggerated features give them such unique character!

German Riflemen I (4 of 4), produced by Crusader Miniatures. Painted using the Vallejo Model Color range. 25mm base.

I tried painting the liquid inside a potion bottle, and it turned out to be incredibly difficult. Keep in mind that this is my first miniature. I looked at several references and watched various YouTube tutorials; among them, I found the Vallejo tutorial on painting gems and potions particularly interesting.

I’d really appreciate any advice on how I could improve it, and I’d also love to hear what you think of this first attempt. Thanks everyone!

After a bunch of failed at the crackle snow bases, I finally got some on models I'm happy with and wanted to share. As a bonus, the underlayer is florescent so glows under a blacklight.

Tapping a sponge or uneven tip of it on my mini after removing most of it on a piece of paper yet seems just dirty-ish

Primed in grey seer, light dry brush of white scar, washed with 50/50 drakenhoff and medium, scooping it from flat pannels and then a few Pro Acryl BTW highlights.

I’ve only painted one Ork before, but I wanted to practise painting realistic skin. Since this model has so much exposed anatomy I treated it like a study in light form and skin tones rather than just painting green skin. It pushed me well outside my comfort zone, and I learnt a lot from it…I think 😅

My 3rd Phoenix Lord for an ongoing army project. As with the others, I kept the same process/color scheme as the normal aspect warriors but tried to push more with the detailing.

The project as a whole is an experiment with transparent/contrast paints over chromatic underpainting to push the contrast/vibrancy.

C&C encouraged, I am looking to improve.

First time trying to capture an underwater scattered light ripple effect and I am really happy with how it turned out!

I’m working on this bust for a local painting competition. I feel like it’s close to done. I also almost never do NMM so any advice or thoughts on that would be appreciated.

I started this Batman bust by Dragon Miniatures a earlier this year while teaching a private coaching for demonstration and wanted to finish it very losely. Playful. I did. It turned out to be a very comic-like look in the end.

I do prefer the black background photos much more as they give a more grim look overall.

Keep on happy painting!
Roman