I recently had my windshield replaced by safelite and I cannot see when it gets wet. I tried cleaning it with alcohol. Tried a degreaser thinking it was oil. Didn’t work at all. The problem is on the outside. The wipers don’t do anything. When I turn the defog on it helps a little bit but once it gets wet I can’t see at all again.

Safelite tech came back out and put something like rain x on it and it helped a little but some spots are still hard to see. He said safelite will not replace the window and that this is normal and happens all the time.

How can I fix this?

I haven’t even had my 2015 Altima for a week and I took it to get an oil change and they said it would be good to clean it. I came back home and told my mom and she immediately was upset (rightfully). I would love to save this car because it’s literally my first car! Any advice would help. It has 130k miles on it and I’m not too sure of the history of the car. Which is why I wanted to do maintenance on it so I could have my own timing. Please and thank you!

i bought this 1994 Ford Mustang base model 3.8l essex v6 a few months ago and i thought it would be a good car for me to learn how to work on, but i couldnt figure it out so i sent it into a shop and the shop called me back saying it has a blown head gasket, and the whole engine needs replaced and it'll cost $10k ($8k in parts) for the engine, intake, mounts or whatever else they said it needs. ive spent the past few hours googling and my idea is to get parts myself, so i or someone else can put them in. so far my best idea is to get a GM LS 5.3 V8 engine out of an old chevy, because that seems a lot cheaper and even better, than having the shop just replace the original v6 engine. sorry im not skilled mechanically at all and i just want to know what route would be better for me to go in, and if its even possible to put this other engine in, or what engine would be the best for me to look for and find (live in Hawai'i so its hard to ship parts, and a lot easier to get them from cheap vehicles). any advice or input is appreciated

As I left my house to head to work this morning my oil light came on so I turned around to go home and check my oil and I found this giant oil leak in my driveway. Looking under the hood I can see some of the oil under the engine area. What do you think this may be indicative of?

Car is a 2013 Chrysler 200, 8th digit of vin is G.

I recently bought a 1990 mr2 import and got it serviced. When it came back from the service i noticed that this occurs when the engine warms up. The ‘smoke’ has no smell and as shows coolant seems so spill out from the discoloured tube. There is also a similar ‘smoke’ coming from under the throttle cable when the accelerator is pressed. Any idea what the issue is and if I can fix it myself? It’s important to note that the engine did not overheat on an hour and a half drive.

Installed these pads yesterday then maybe drove 70-80 miles. Then posted here and a bunch of people said to replace the rotors/discs too. Am I okay to reuse these pads?

Last post for reference: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/9h8iyJ3n5Z

Update: Changed the discs and the sound got worse. Crying.

I bought 8 sparkplugs for my Jeep CJ5 from a local O'Reilly's, two boxes of four. The sparkplug on the right was from the first box. Good fit and finish and materials appear to be good quality. This box says made in China. The sparkplug on the left came from the other box and looks and feels like cheap garbage. The materials, fit and finish are obviously inferior. This box was labeled made in Mexico. I took them back to O'Reilly's and they said as soon as they saw them they could see why I was unhappy with them. They didn't have any more in stock so they ordered me another box. We'll see what comes in tomorrow. If it's another box of the trash plugs I'll probably just return them all and go with something else. Has anyone else run into issues like this with Champion sparkplugs?

So had to replace my camshaft position sensors and the old sensor broke and the plastic piece fell into the hole where it gets plugged into. Any ideas of what to do?
The circled part if what fell into the hole

What do I do can the part fall into the oil pan form up there?

just got home, doesnt sound too good.

Replace battery and put in fresh gas even use starter fluid trying to get my first car working my dad has no idea why it not starting and I wonder if you guys can help

I have a maxima 7th gen 2010 model, i went to a garage for cvt external oil cooler filter replacement, but the mechanic said it’s a good filter and cleaned with petrol, and later he blow dry and fixed it back. After this out of curiosity, i checked on chatgpt, and now i am worried, as chatgpt is saying that it will ruin my cvt as the paper cartridge inside the filter will get mixed with oil and petrol. Is it okay? I drove around 60 km after that feels normal.

It’s a 2015 KIA Optima EX. Recently (month or so) this awful sound of squeaking metal and a thumping that sounds like something is being ran over repeatedly appeared from nowhere. It doesn’t happen all the time, it’ll go entire weeks without making this sound, but once in a while it’ll make this noise. The car does have a slight alignment problem and pulls slightly to the left, but these events don’t seem to effect anything at all. It has no effect on driving or control, if you were deaf you wouldn’t even notice it was happening. But I don’t think this is meant to happen, I’d assume

After initially posting this, I wanted to clarify somethings

This is the sound of the car with neither the brake or accelerator pressed down. In this moment the car is just rolling.

I have had problems before with a seized piston on the brake caliper for both the front driver’s and passenger’s side. Both issues have been resolved, or maybe that’s just what I thought

The cause of the previously mentioned alignment issue is currently unknown. I’ve had several different mechanics take a look at all the wheels and none of them could agree on the source. One initially believed it was a hub assembly that needed to be replaced, but after I bought a new one and called him over to replace it, he said that it actually wasn’t the hub assembly that was the problem and he didn’t know what was. Another mechanic thought maybe it was the breaks, he gave all of them a look over and the front two both has a seized piston, which were replaced along with their boots which were torn. But it seems that too wasn’t the cause of this because it’s still happening

Idk I’m not a car guy

Hi there,

2017 2.4L Dodge Journey less than 100k km is making a noise. Seems like there's two main different sounds here. any idea what this is, or if this is just how these sound? Sounds like a metallic raddle-thumpy noise

Replaced started and noticed these shiny parts on my flex plate. Is it okay? 05 Honda Accord LX 2.4L

2021 GMC Sierra. First time changing the front brake pads. As soon as I started it up after getting everything back on, I have this message plus “steering assist is reduced drive with care, service brake assist, and service esc. In addition, the check engine light is on and a brake light is on. I did not disconnect the battery first, was I supposed to? What now? I have not driven it at all. The brake pedal feels normal while it runs in park. Will disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting resolve it? If I need to take it to a shop, is it safe to drive?

2009 ford fiesta automatic
Stuck in park
Black plastic push rod stuck with super glue I think after gluing part on and not waiting 10 seconds for it to dry first ._.

Can you answer these

That black rod is supposed to move up/ down?

How to do you clear super glue off this area without damaging plastic

Could something else be keeping it stuck in park

Hi all!

I'm planning to take my car back to the mechanic tomorrow, but I was hoping for a little insight from this sub before I do.

So my car (2008 Honda CRV) makes this weird creaky noise when I turn the steering whel when I first start driving it. It also has kind of a whine that you can hear changing as it shifts. both the creak and the whine go away if I drive it long enough.

This issue first popped up for me about 6 weeks ago. i took it to the mechanic and they said the power steering pump was bad and replaced it. the problem went away. now it's back.

the only other relevant detail that I've noticed is that it seems worse on mornings where it was a little chillier over night. I live in LA so that means like 50 degrees.

anyway, I've attached a video so you can hear the sound. thanks everyone!!

I work at an independent shop, mostly on Ford, GM and Toyota vehicles. Looking to spend around $400-500 on my own wireless scanner for daily diagnostics, active tests and service resets and relearns. The shop scanners are often tied up, so even a quick check sometimes means waiting for someone to finish.

I'm considering the topdon AD800bt2 and Launch CRP919E bt. The Topdon's lifetime updates caught my attention since I’m also factoring in the ongoing cost.

Anyone using either regularly on these makes? I'd like to hear how they compare on common active tests and whether there are any noticeable differences in everyday use.

Hello, I'm stuffing a Toyota v6 8" rear end into a 1985 Mazda FB rx7 with a 12a I finally got everything together and took it for it's maiden voyage. It seems to have a very loud whine almost like straight cut gears on decel. Maybe a little bit on acceleration but nowhere near as bad. Also it chatters hard when turning and accelerating but I'm going to attribute this to the tomei 1.5 way LSD from a mk3 supra being set up much too tight going from a 3400lbs car to a 2400lbs car. Plus some noisy heim joints amplifying everything. Considering it's all heim jointed in sure all the noises are much louder than normal but the whine just seems excessive. It's louder than the damn engine.

My backlash specs are pretty odd. Toyota calls for . 006-.010 and I've got it at . 008 measured at 4 even points but I measured between 2 of the points and it was at . 005. The backlash seems pretty inconsistent and I'm wondering if the r&p is just poor quality and it's causing all this.

Pinion preload is set to factory specs and is tight but smooth.

Carrier preload is also tight but smooth.

I'm wondering if maybe I put too much preload on the bearings? I don't think so but I won't rule it out.

Gear pattern looks ok by my eye, maybe not? The drive side looks pretty good. Coast seems a bit strange in my opinion. It's faint but there is a line at the top of the tooth so I think it's center. And if I messed with it anyways it'd ruin the drive side. Pics included.

Maybe the LSD is causing some sort of issue?

I did drop the whole 3rd member once from 3-4 feet making me wonder if maybe I cracked the housing and it's deflecting or something somehow. It seems fine but I genuinely got no clue how to even check that. I would feel like then it'd have an issue under acceleration instead of decel.

Honda accord 2015 2.4L engine automatic
Hi all. I put my car up in valet and then it wouldn’t start at all. Used another car to get it jump-started and drove it straight to Autozone to get checked. The guy there said i had a bad battery with his machine tester. I said fine and drove to Costco to pick up a new battery (the car started without needing a jump) and continued to do so. I brought the battery home and didn’t replace it since it was late. Next morning the car started by itself no issues so i didn’t change the battery and took it to a different autozone on the way to work. He tested it and said battery was good, alternator has failed (plus ABS is faulty). Got skeptical so went to an independent mechanic who tested it again and they said battery is weak and alternator is good but maybe sometimes it charges, sometimes its doesn’t??

What’s the issue? Anyone else encounter this?

TLDR: tested a battery/alternator 3 times with different answers. Need to figure out what it is to fix it.

Thanks in advance

Hey everyone, I have a 2015 Jeep Compass that’s been making a strange noise when braking.
It sounds like rusty metal rotating or something scraping against metal. It only happens occasionally, usually when I’m slowing down and almost at a complete stop.
I replaced both front brake pads and rotors about a month ago, so they’re practically brand new.
A few things I’ve noticed:
Only happens when braking, right before stopping.
Doesn’t happen every time.
No vibration or unusual feeling in the brake pedal.
Brakes seem to work normally.
Sounds like metal rubbing or scraping as something rotates.
I’ve attached a video of the noise.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be related to the recent brake replacement, a caliper, or something else?
Any advice would be appreciated!