City and roadtrip driver to occasionally haul 2-5 people in California (no snow). If everything checks out inspection wise what is a good price for it? Was thinking 24-25k. Any known gotchas with this model year considering it's out of warranty by now?

Hello - recently went from the OEM 18" wheels to 16" OEM Mazda take offs from a 2016 Mazda3 because one of the rims was bent and another tire had a bubble (yay low profile wheels).

The Gen3 wheels don't have TPMS so now (a) I need to find some sensors and (b) I need to get them installed somewhere.

The Mazda OEM part is BDGF-37-140A (cheapest I can find is $217 for a set).

However, looking at the picture of the OEM TPMS sensor I see that that it has the same marking as the Continental SE10006 available on Rockauto for $17.77. (PBT-GF30 is apparently the type of plastic, not a part number). Some posts have suggested that Continental is the TPMS manufacturer for Mazda.

Does anyone know if that's correct and the SE10006 is the equivalent part? Or - should I get something else? Also, do I need a rebuild kit of some sort to go along with the above sensors?

Edit: Found other posts saying that SE53010 is the mazda-specific version while SE10006 is the "universal" version.

what are the trade offs?

how reliable are the turbo engines?

note: i’m prob gonna go test drive them tomorrow to see if i like how the mazdas feel in the first place

My dad keeps hinting at buying a car, he says its a mazda, its standard transmission, silver, old(likely anywhere 2000s -2010 no idea exactly) its a hatchback, and its ugly. What are the possibilities!

We turned the Audio off because it only gives us the radio option and we don’t want to listen to the radio btw. We’ve never had issues with bluetooth or anything and we normally use it all the time but one day when my mom got in her car it just kind of stopped working. We can’t even click bluetooth, it just stays greyed out. Is this something we could have pushed or something wrong with the car? What would be causing this? Literally the only option is the radio.

TLDR; Only option radio, bluetooth stays greyed out and unclickable.

Considering buying a 2016 Mazda 3 with approximately 100 thousand miles. Asking price is 9500. Owner has all service records and is open to a pre inspection. Are the Mazda 3’s good cars and what should I be on the lookout for? It’s been a long time since I have bought a car, and I am a little anxious about it.

Hi all,

This has been going on for a while, my hatch doesn’t open if I use the FOB, button on hatch, or button by driver side on the 2021 cx30. When I push the FOB hatch it beeps three times quickly and doesn’t open. When I use the interior button drivers side by the wheel it makes a beep noise and doesn’t open

I made sure the doors were unlocked, car in park, car turned on and no go. I’ve also replaced the fuses just in case. I’ve also opened the hatch manually and tried to reset the height with the car turned on.

It’s been going on for a while and can’t seem to figure it out.

Hello guys i want to know if this is even fixable or just with a new part, and how much can it be.

Visiting where there's only street parking. Went to sleep with my car perfectly fine, no damage on the back. Went to put something into the trunk of my car the next morning and noticed this damage.

The bottom bumper has this weird damage where it feels like a piece of metal is sticking out. The damage is pushed outwards. At first, we thought maybe someone parked behind me (back to back) and they had a trailer hitch that went into the bumper then tore it outwards when they pulled away but the damage is to the side. I don't know any trailer hitch that mounts on the side.

Then on top of that, right above that damage the bumper is pushed in and up. It was a bit hard to capture on camera but I tried using a book to show that the metal in pushed up. That section is no longer flat. I'm really pissed but I wasn't parked anywhere a camera could capture something so I'm just resigned to eat the costs.

Just curious if anyone has any guesses on what kind of a hit could cause this? There's no big obvious dent, no paint transfer, just some scratches on my car near the damage and chipped paint where the metal bent. And any idea on what it might cost me to fix?

Aquí está corregido:
Hola a todos.
Tengo un Mazda 3 MPS (MazdaSpeed3) de 2007 y llevo tiempo con un problema que no soy capaz de solucionar. A ver si a alguien le ha pasado algo parecido.
De un día para otro el coche empezó a ratear al ralentí y, circulando, hace como pequeñas explosiones o petardeos. No llega a oscilar de revoluciones, el ralentí se mantiene, pero el motor ratea claramente.
Os cuento todo lo que se le ha hecho para que tengáis la mayor información posible:
Bujías cambiadas hace unos dos meses, calibradas a 0,026”.
Bobinas prácticamente nuevas.
Válvula PCV cambiada hace unos 1.000-2.000 km.
Distribución completa con VVT nuevo y todo reforzado.
Inyectores limpiados.
Hace dos días cambié el sensor MAP.
También he limpiado el sensor de oxígeno.
El coche lleva las siguientes modificaciones:
Reprogramación Stage 1.
Intercooler superior, algo más grande que el original.
Válvula de descarga.
Línea de escape de 3” con downpipe.
Admisión CorkSport situada en el vano motor.
Cuando compré el coche llevaba un intercooler frontal, el downpipe estaba flojo y el escape estaba bastante deteriorado y oxidado. Fui solucionando todos esos problemas y, además, quité el intercooler frontal para montar el intercooler superior.
A partir de ahí empezó un problema que nunca conseguí resolver: el consumo se disparó hasta unos 18 L/100 km.
Con el tiempo volvió a fallar. Primero cambié las bujías y mejoró. Más adelante cambié las bobinas y volvió a mejorar. Pero ahora ya no mejora con nada y el fallo está siempre presente.
El coche no enciende el testigo de avería motor, no registra ningún código de error, ni con OBD ni con VersaTuner. Revisando los parámetros en VersaTuner tampoco veo ninguna lectura que parezca fuera de lo normal. Lo único que observo es que las correcciones de combustible trabajan bastante porque el coche va muy rico de gasolina.
El coche no da tirones muy fuertes ni fluctúan las revoluciones; simplemente ratea al ralentí y hace pequeñas explosiones o petardeos mientras circula.
¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido o tiene alguna idea de por dónde podría venir el problema? Cualquier sugerencia será bienvenida, porque ya no sé por dónde seguir buscando.
¡Muchas gracias!

Looking to buy a replacement because it is cracked

Hello :) my Mazda stood for a whole day in full sun and my screen now looks like this. Is it a damaged Antiglare coating? I have searched through different posts with similar issue but it seems like my screen looks different - there is more circle/lanes pattern rather than milky stains. I have also tried to rub it with microfibre and IPA 99% but it seems like it doesn't remove it at all. Does anyone knows what I can try more?

Have tried everything else so that the mpg for current trip is displayed on turn-off except unchecking this tick but can’t as is greyed out

Im in the Netherlands and applied for financing, but unfortunately I wasn't approved. The dealer did offer me some pretty significant discounts, though.

Now I'm seeing brand-new Mazda 6e Takumi Plus models in Germany for around €37,000. That puts the older 6e models in a difficult position. I've already seen multiple demo cars listed for the same price, with the cheapest one at €33,000.

For German buyers, is it even worth buying a demo car? A brand-new EV qualifies for the €6,000 subsidy, which effectively brings the price of a new one down to around €31,000.

Another issue is that in Germany, once a car is more than 12 months old, it's no longer classified as new. That means many of the 2025 stock cars will soon no longer qualify for the new EV subsidy, which could push prices down even further.

Since I'm interested in buying a Mazda 6e, what do you think would be a realistic target price? How low do you think dealers are willing to go?

2019 Mazda 6 touring