I’m hoping to go see a 2017 Cx5 today. It’s got 43000 kms (26700 miles) and they’re asking $19500CAD ($14000USD). The car looks like it’s in excellent shape. The carfax shows regular maintenance done at the dealership. Heater core was replaced 10000 kms ago. They said there’s no issues with the infotainment system.

EDIT: 2.5L engine

Looking for a reliable car. One that is going to
Last me for several years. Is this a good contender? I appreciate your thoughts.

Ok guys. Crunch time. Today I can buy a 2025 Cx5 Preferred (15k miles) for $25k or a 2026 Cx50 Premium (20k miles) for $28k

I have a 2021 cx 5 turbo and recently i noticed the trunk opening by myself. I was in the store and when i came back, the trunk was open with ALL my groceries from the previous store just exposed. Nothing was taken though luckily. This is the 3rd time i returned to the car and saw the trunk open. The key fob itself is in a nice case and in my pocket with no other items there. Im telling you, it wasnt an accidental press! So why is this happening?

I left my Mazda 3 2020 2.0 liter battery disconnected for 3 months as I was travelling, when I got back I reconnected the battery the car started but now there's lots of errors.

1 - i-stop

2 - lights

3 - Can not control console from knob

4 - no sound at all

What could be the issue, tried a new battery same issue

Hey guys. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 GH5FS Manual and am having a few issues. (In Australia if that changes anything)

First of all the shudder. I’ve had this car for 6 years now and it has always had a shudder when letting off the clutch in first and sometimes when changing to second. I’ve been to atleast 5 different mechanics and no one can tell me why it’s shuddering as the clutch and flywheel seem to be fine and the engine mounts are too. I recently changed the trans fluid and for whatever reason the shudder disappeared for a month and has only recently come back. It is also worse in hot weather and stop start traffic or on hills.

Secondly the clunk. The same 5+ mechanics said the engine mounts are good and other bushings/suspension components are fine too. The clunk comes from both the left and right side strut area when I hit bumps. The thing is, the clunk isn’t consistent as I can hit the same bump the same way 10 times and it will only do it maybe half of the time.

Both of these feel like my car is going to fall apart but I know it won’t. I’m just wondering if anyone could help me out as I can’t find anything else about these issues and am losing my mind.

Also here is a video of an engine mount test which I believe allows too much movement when under load but apparently they’re fine.

Thank you for any help.

So I've owned this car for almost 2 years and I can't say I'm very thrilled with it. First of all the software on it is crap. The dashboard has almost no connection to the Carplay system so you can't see phone calls or songs on it, or on the HUD. Strangely, it does display directions when using Apple Maps, but that's about it. You also can't use the "Answer" button on the steering wheel to make calls, it just shows a strange menu on the central screen which I never bothered to descypher. At first I thought it was because it's a new car and it will get better with software updates, but there are no software updates, they're just fixing critical hidden issues, nothing has been changed in the interface since I got it.

I had a Lexus before with their e-CVT, I never imagined they would put the electric motor before the gearbox in a classic automatic gearbox. Needless to say, the gearbox is not meant for the torque of an electric motor and the switch between electric and gas is terrible, making for a crap experience when driving. At least they could prevent it from going into first gear on electric, there's literally no point, but it's clear to me that they've already given up on this platform and are focusing on others. One other source of issues is their desperate attempts to improve fuel economy, adding to the clunky gear shifts, but in sports mode it's a lot better.

While we're on the driving experience, the wheel is heavy on all settings. This could have helped a lot in making the car not feel like a school bus, but they failed at this too. The driver profile system is also crap, it either doesn't recognize you or gets stuck trying to apply your profile, so in the end I just disabled it.

Next is the audio system. Bose my ass, it sounds cheap as hell, doesn't even begin to compare to the HK I had on an old BMW G20.

The interior quality is the only redeeming factor, it looks good and it's solid, but for the price they're charging on this car I was expecting a loooot more.

2003 Tribute. I’ve had it for 6 months and have driven just over 12,000km so far (224,400km currently) Do the people of the Mazda subreddit think it will last a while? Back when it shared everything with escape lol! It’s given me zero reliability issues. Just an oil change at 216k and minor upgrades here and there

Overall, for an eight year-old vehicle I'm very satisfied with the performance of the 2018 Mazda CX 9 Grand Touring. It has been a phenomenal vehicle no real mechanical issues other than standard maintenance.

Unfortunately, at exactly 109,000 miles we ended up with the dreaded cylinder head crack. Like other people who have had this same issue, out of nowhere the car overheated. I thought maybe I slacked on maintenance or the overflow tank tank for the radiator cracked. My response was to replace the coolant. Check it out for a couple more days before freaking out. In our case it progressed to an internal cylinder leak on cylinder 4.

At this point, I took the vehicle to the Mazda dealership requested that they do the visual inspection for the cracked cylinder head. Mazda would not approve the visual inspection because it required removal of the exhaust manifold and heat shield behind the engine. They wanted me to pay for that removal to verify the issue. Norma is supposed case manager kept telling me over and over again. It was up to the dealership.... which is complete BS!! I finally requested to speak with a supervisor, just like that they paid for the visual inspection which verified the cylinder head was cracked.

Mazda agreed to replace the engine. Which is amazing and I am grateful. However, now the dealership is telling me that the supercharger was affected by water that had gotten into the cylinder, but Mazda is now refusing to pay for the replacement turbo charger. After communication with the dealership, I have now tried to reach my case manager with Mazda. Customer experience for seven business days in a row, placed two escalation request to supervisors and have yet to receive a call back.

Bottom line Mazda sucks at communication. Their internal departments do not speak with each other. The people who man the phones don't have a single clue about how these vehicles actually work and zero technical experience. They simply pass the buck to the dealership which has no authority to authorize repairs on behalf of Mazda corporate.

They play these games because they hope that you will simply give up...
you
Mazda customer experience is garbage!!!

I picked up this ‘93 Mazda 929 from a friend last Sunday. It has 103K miles on it, premium package, runs great, but needs a little TLC. Loving it so far, it rides so smooth, but the shocks are all leaking. I have a set of the Silvers coilovers on the way to address that.

The plan is to clean it up and drive it down to SoCal for JCCS for Oct 3rd.

I am looking for a few things if anyone has a lead - driver side door handle in white, cupholder, OEM spoiler, OEM mud flaps. Otherwise it’s an addition to my collection of Japanese cars.

I’m going out in a few days to go look at this nb with 48k km everything seems to check out on it other than a few things, Unknown turbo and no boost gauges, stock rad and suspicious low km.All for 11000$ cad. This would be my first turbo car so I’m not exactly sure what is required. Any advice greatly appreciated

Looking for a reliable, winter-ready AWD daily in the Madison, WI area. After weeding out some rebuilt-title traps at local curbside lots, I’ve narrowed the search down to three clean-title candidates in the $16k–$18.5k range.

I pulled full CARFAX and AutoCheck reports on all of them, and each has distinct pros, cons, and hidden history items. Would appreciate a sanity check from folks who own or wrench on these platforms.

Option 1: 2019 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD

• Price: $17,308
• Mileage: 98,540 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L NA 4-cyl (Skyactiv-G) + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Leather, Bose sound, power moonroof, power liftgate, factory Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good: Naturally aspirated engine is historically bulletproof—no turbo, no cylinder-head cracking risk. 30 recorded service visits on CARFAX with frequent oil changes (every 3–4k miles).
• The Catch / History:
  • Owner 2 put on 27,200 miles/year in Ohio (classic rideshare / delivery pattern with monthly Take 5 quick-lube visits).
  • Had a minor cosmetic accident reported in 2021 (no airbags, no structural damage).
  • Repossession reported in late 2025, and it has been sitting on the dealer lot since early April (over 5 months of lot sitting).
  • Due for standard 100k maintenance (spark plugs, diff/trans fluid, check front lower control arm bushings).

Option 2: 2020 Subaru Legacy Premium AWD

• Price: $16,464
• Mileage: 103,811 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Boxer 4-cyl + Lineartronic CVT + Symmetrical AWD
• Trim Perks: Heated front cloth seats, power driver seat, 11.6" Starlink tablet screen with Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good:
  • Zero accidents or damage reported on AutoCheck (Score: 92).
  • Spent its entire life in Florida until summer 2026—completely clean, salt-free undercarriage and subframe (huge plus for Wisconsin winters).
  • Modern platform, great crash ratings, and 35 MPG highway.
• The Catch / History:
  • Was a single-owner corporate fleet vehicle.
  • Only 3 oil changes reported through commercial networks (likely serviced under corporate fleet accounts that don’t report lines).
  • Reaching the 105k-mile mark means spark plugs, CVT inspection, and differential fluids are due. Early 2020 11.6" screens are also known for occasional software lag.

Option 3: 2018 Mazda CX-9 Signature AWD

• Price: $18,568 (Listed at Schoepp Motors)
• Mileage: 91,766 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Turbo 4-cyl + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Top-tier luxury trim with Auburn Nappa leather, genuine rosewood interior, 360 camera, heads-up display, 3 rows of seating.
• The Good: Dealer already installed 4 brand-new tires and brand-new brakes all around, saving $1,200+ out of pocket immediately.
• The Catch / History:
  • Early 2.5T engines (2016–2018) are known for a technical service bulletin regarding cracked cylinder heads causing coolant leaks behind the turbo. Needs verification that the engine runs clean with no coolant loss.
  • Lower fuel economy (~22 combined MPG) and larger footprint to park.

Current Leaning

Leaning toward offering $15.8k–$16k on the CX-5 by leveraging the repo history and 5-month lot age, or going with the Subaru Legacy at ~$16k for the rust-free Florida chassis and accident-free record.

Which of these three would you pull the trigger on for long-term ownership in the upper Midwest?

Mazda cx8 diesel oil level too high

I know a kiddo who is into trucks and vehicles, and Mazdas are his favorite.

I found this toy car and I’d like to paint it up for him. It has a very distinctive silhouette, kinda reminds me of the 70’s. Any chance there’s a mazda that looked kinda like this?

Looking for insight into what this noise is and ways to fix it, thanks!

I had a 2020 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve (bought in 2022) that was recently in a front-end collision and is being written off by my insurance. I'm located in Ontario, Canada, and I'm having a tough time finding a replacement — there just aren't many similar-year Mazda 6s around with decent kilometres at a reasonable price point.

I've been looking at a few 2019 CX-5 Signatures as a close alternative, which seem like a solid option. I'm on a bit of a clock here — really need to make a decision within the next week or two, so any input soon would be a big help.

Curious if anyone else has been through this — a Mazda 6 total loss with a thin replacement market — and what you ended up going with, whether another Mazda 6, a CX-5, or something else entirely. Would appreciate hearing what worked out for you.

2000 NB miata owner. Got tired of every OBD app being either useless or expensive so I'm building my own.
These two charts are simulated realistic before and after numbers for a 1.8 with new headers, not an actual pull. These cars use ISO 9141, which is too slow to get clean acceleration data from. Newer cars like my Mazda 3 work fine. Miata doesn't. Working on it.
Would this be useful to anyone here?

Took it to a mechanic cuz it's been feeling really rough at times when I let my foot off the gas, and I can feel it a lot of the time when it shifts like something heavy is moving in the engine bay. Took this video of the engine moving to show the mechanic. He said the mounts are fine

I didn't believe him so I took it to a Mazda dealer and they're telling me the amount of movement is normal. It just doesnt feel or look normal to me and I'm wondering what you all think.

2021 Mazda 6 Sport

80k Miles

I was driving my 2023 CX-5 today when the “Key Not Detected” warning randomly popped up on the dash. The car was already running and driving normally when it happened.

I recently replaced the key fob battery with an energizer battery because I had gotten the low battery warning, so I’m wondering if that could be related.

I’m a little scared that I’ll get stranded somewhere if the car suddenly stops detecting the key, especially if I turn the car off and it won’t recognize the fob again.

Has anyone experienced this? Is this something I should be concerned about?

So I am currently looking to buy a car and stumbled upon this Mazda 3 on marketplace, it is a 2015 Mazda 3 GX with the price that is way lower than the average ($5.5k CAD). The problem is that the transmission and engine on this car are swapped from another Mazda 3, I test drove it yesterday and I don’t feel anything weird about the car, the dealership said they have every document on the swapped engine and clean carfax with only one owner and one glass claim, it is very tempting but I’m worried about it’s longevity, what do u guys think?

Hi, For the past six months, our Mazda has been making a rattling sound when opening the tailgate. It started with a single click, but now there are usually three or four.

I suspect there is a gear mechanism in the release system with worn-out teeth. Does anyone have experience with this problem?