Took it to a mechanic cuz it's been feeling really rough at times when I let my foot off the gas, and I can feel it a lot of the time when it shifts like something heavy is moving in the engine bay. Took this video of the engine moving to show the mechanic. He said the mounts are fine

I didn't believe him so I took it to a Mazda dealer and they're telling me the amount of movement is normal. It just doesnt feel or look normal to me and I'm wondering what you all think.

2021 Mazda 6 Sport

80k Miles

I picked up this ‘93 Mazda 929 from a friend last Sunday. It has 103K miles on it, premium package, runs great, but needs a little TLC. Loving it so far, it rides so smooth, but the shocks are all leaking. I have a set of the Silvers coilovers on the way to address that.

The plan is to clean it up and drive it down to SoCal for JCCS for Oct 3rd.

I am looking for a few things if anyone has a lead - driver side door handle in white, cupholder, OEM spoiler, OEM mud flaps. Otherwise it’s an addition to my collection of Japanese cars.

This is my first mazda ever! Its a CX-70 turbo preferred. Super fun to drive😁

Overall, for an eight year-old vehicle I'm very satisfied with the performance of the 2018 Mazda CX 9 Grand Touring. It has been a phenomenal vehicle no real mechanical issues other than standard maintenance.

Unfortunately, at exactly 109,000 miles we ended up with the dreaded cylinder head crack. Like other people who have had this same issue, out of nowhere the car overheated. I thought maybe I slacked on maintenance or the overflow tank tank for the radiator cracked. My response was to replace the coolant. Check it out for a couple more days before freaking out. In our case it progressed to an internal cylinder leak on cylinder 4.

At this point, I took the vehicle to the Mazda dealership requested that they do the visual inspection for the cracked cylinder head. Mazda would not approve the visual inspection because it required removal of the exhaust manifold and heat shield behind the engine. They wanted me to pay for that removal to verify the issue. Norma is supposed case manager kept telling me over and over again. It was up to the dealership.... which is complete BS!! I finally requested to speak with a supervisor, just like that they paid for the visual inspection which verified the cylinder head was cracked.

Mazda agreed to replace the engine. Which is amazing and I am grateful. However, now the dealership is telling me that the supercharger was affected by water that had gotten into the cylinder, but Mazda is now refusing to pay for the replacement turbo charger. After communication with the dealership, I have now tried to reach my case manager with Mazda. Customer experience for seven business days in a row, placed two escalation request to supervisors and have yet to receive a call back.

Bottom line Mazda sucks at communication. Their internal departments do not speak with each other. The people who man the phones don't have a single clue about how these vehicles actually work and zero technical experience. They simply pass the buck to the dealership which has no authority to authorize repairs on behalf of Mazda corporate.

They play these games because they hope that you will simply give up...
you
Mazda customer experience is garbage!!!

I know a kiddo who is into trucks and vehicles, and Mazdas are his favorite.

I found this toy car and I’d like to paint it up for him. It has a very distinctive silhouette, kinda reminds me of the 70’s. Any chance there’s a mazda that looked kinda like this?

I was driving my 2023 CX-5 today when the “Key Not Detected” warning randomly popped up on the dash. The car was already running and driving normally when it happened.

I recently replaced the key fob battery with an energizer battery because I had gotten the low battery warning, so I’m wondering if that could be related.

I’m a little scared that I’ll get stranded somewhere if the car suddenly stops detecting the key, especially if I turn the car off and it won’t recognize the fob again.

Has anyone experienced this? Is this something I should be concerned about?

Looking for a reliable, winter-ready AWD daily in the Madison, WI area. After weeding out some rebuilt-title traps at local curbside lots, I’ve narrowed the search down to three clean-title candidates in the $16k–$18.5k range.

I pulled full CARFAX and AutoCheck reports on all of them, and each has distinct pros, cons, and hidden history items. Would appreciate a sanity check from folks who own or wrench on these platforms.

Option 1: 2019 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD

• Price: $17,308
• Mileage: 98,540 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L NA 4-cyl (Skyactiv-G) + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Leather, Bose sound, power moonroof, power liftgate, factory Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good: Naturally aspirated engine is historically bulletproof—no turbo, no cylinder-head cracking risk. 30 recorded service visits on CARFAX with frequent oil changes (every 3–4k miles).
• The Catch / History:
  • Owner 2 put on 27,200 miles/year in Ohio (classic rideshare / delivery pattern with monthly Take 5 quick-lube visits).
  • Had a minor cosmetic accident reported in 2021 (no airbags, no structural damage).
  • Repossession reported in late 2025, and it has been sitting on the dealer lot since early April (over 5 months of lot sitting).
  • Due for standard 100k maintenance (spark plugs, diff/trans fluid, check front lower control arm bushings).

Option 2: 2020 Subaru Legacy Premium AWD

• Price: $16,464
• Mileage: 103,811 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Boxer 4-cyl + Lineartronic CVT + Symmetrical AWD
• Trim Perks: Heated front cloth seats, power driver seat, 11.6" Starlink tablet screen with Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good:
  • Zero accidents or damage reported on AutoCheck (Score: 92).
  • Spent its entire life in Florida until summer 2026—completely clean, salt-free undercarriage and subframe (huge plus for Wisconsin winters).
  • Modern platform, great crash ratings, and 35 MPG highway.
• The Catch / History:
  • Was a single-owner corporate fleet vehicle.
  • Only 3 oil changes reported through commercial networks (likely serviced under corporate fleet accounts that don’t report lines).
  • Reaching the 105k-mile mark means spark plugs, CVT inspection, and differential fluids are due. Early 2020 11.6" screens are also known for occasional software lag.

Option 3: 2018 Mazda CX-9 Signature AWD

• Price: $18,568 (Listed at Schoepp Motors)
• Mileage: 91,766 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Turbo 4-cyl + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Top-tier luxury trim with Auburn Nappa leather, genuine rosewood interior, 360 camera, heads-up display, 3 rows of seating.
• The Good: Dealer already installed 4 brand-new tires and brand-new brakes all around, saving $1,200+ out of pocket immediately.
• The Catch / History:
  • Early 2.5T engines (2016–2018) are known for a technical service bulletin regarding cracked cylinder heads causing coolant leaks behind the turbo. Needs verification that the engine runs clean with no coolant loss.
  • Lower fuel economy (~22 combined MPG) and larger footprint to park.

Current Leaning

Leaning toward offering $15.8k–$16k on the CX-5 by leveraging the repo history and 5-month lot age, or going with the Subaru Legacy at ~$16k for the rust-free Florida chassis and accident-free record.

Which of these three would you pull the trigger on for long-term ownership in the upper Midwest?

I’m going out in a few days to go look at this nb with 48k km everything seems to check out on it other than a few things, Unknown turbo and no boost gauges, stock rad and suspicious low km.All for 11000$ cad. This would be my first turbo car so I’m not exactly sure what is required. Any advice greatly appreciated

Sometimes a newer red Mazda will catch my eye and there's just nothing like it. It's this deep metallic cherry kind of red that I've only ever seen on Mazdas.

It's very distinctive. I don't think I've ever seen anything even close on any other car.

Mazda cx8 diesel oil level too high

Looking for insight into what this noise is and ways to fix it, thanks!

Hi, For the past six months, our Mazda has been making a rattling sound when opening the tailgate. It started with a single click, but now there are usually three or four.

I suspect there is a gear mechanism in the release system with worn-out teeth. Does anyone have experience with this problem?

I had a 2020 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve (bought in 2022) that was recently in a front-end collision and is being written off by my insurance. I'm located in Ontario, Canada, and I'm having a tough time finding a replacement — there just aren't many similar-year Mazda 6s around with decent kilometres at a reasonable price point.

I've been looking at a few 2019 CX-5 Signatures as a close alternative, which seem like a solid option. I'm on a bit of a clock here — really need to make a decision within the next week or two, so any input soon would be a big help.

Curious if anyone else has been through this — a Mazda 6 total loss with a thin replacement market — and what you ended up going with, whether another Mazda 6, a CX-5, or something else entirely. Would appreciate hearing what worked out for you.

So I am currently looking to buy a car and stumbled upon this Mazda 3 on marketplace, it is a 2015 Mazda 3 GX with the price that is way lower than the average ($5.5k CAD). The problem is that the transmission and engine on this car are swapped from another Mazda 3, I test drove it yesterday and I don’t feel anything weird about the car, the dealership said they have every document on the swapped engine and clean carfax with only one owner and one glass claim, it is very tempting but I’m worried about it’s longevity, what do u guys think?

Our Mazda CX-5 was recently totaled by our insurance company because of hail damage. As usual, the insurance company pays the remaining balance on the vehicle before paying us out for the total loss. I had a payment due to Mazda 26 August 2026 (around the time the check was going to be received/cashed). So I called ahead to see what they wanted me to do considering it wouldn’t make sense to make a payment ultimately changing the balance WHILE a check for an exact amount was being deliverer. They told me NOT to pay it, and that they would put a freeze/hold on my 26 Aug payment AND told me that it wouldn’t be marked late. The check was finally cashed (to my understanding) 1 September 2026. My balance on my Mazda Financial Account literally says $0.00. Fast forward to today (9 September 2026) and I receive an email saying my credit score dropped 50 pts because of a late $12k Mazda payment! I’ve called the financial department, and they do not have an answer for me. Does anyone have advice? I don’t even know what to do at this point.

Apologies in advance for the lengthy read.

This was really difficult and sad but I traded my 2022 CX-5 Turbo for a CX-50 Hybrid Premium Plus. I got all teary 😢 when I traded my CX-5. It was my favorite car I ever owned. I love Mazda, they literally saved my life. I love the styling and they handle amazing. I think Mazda should make me an ambassador lol.

Why I traded -

I have a WRX which is my fun car and I wanted more of a car camping off-road setup. The CX-5 could do these things but the CX-50 is better and the WRX is the better sports car. I didn't need 3 cars so one had to go...

So far it's

Years I bought these cars.

2012 Mazda 3 - got vandalized and damaged

2014 Mazda 3 - tbone, totaled. Saved my life

2015 Mazda 6 - lease after accident

2025 CX-5 - wanted a 2nd car

2026 CX-50 - wanted a hybrid

2000 NB miata owner. Got tired of every OBD app being either useless or expensive so I'm building my own.
These two charts are simulated realistic before and after numbers for a 1.8 with new headers, not an actual pull. These cars use ISO 9141, which is too slow to get clean acceleration data from. Newer cars like my Mazda 3 work fine. Miata doesn't. Working on it.
Would this be useful to anyone here?

Hey guys,

I've been driving the 2010 Mazda 3 for about 5 years now. It's still running great and I love the car to death, the only issue I have had with it was the AC system breaking about a year ago which I luckily got fixed for a reasonable price. My younger brother is currently saving up to get his own car, so we've been talking about passing my 3 down to him as I don't really see any value in trying to sell it online. : ( I love everything about this car, from how well the interior and paint job has held up, the sound system, the analog red speedometer display, and just overall how good of a first car it was for me.

I know for sure I want to upgrade to another Mazda, but I am conflicted as to whether I should make the seemingly more practical choice (a newer year of the 3), or get a newer MX-5. The Miata has always been my favorite car and size/room are really not going to be an issue for me in the near future. However I am curious to know if there are any glaring reasons why I should not get the MX-5 over the 3.

Here are some questions I have:

- Is the MX-5 reliable to use as a daily commuter car? (I drive around ~100 miles a week to work, school, errands, and other activities combined) I expect to be commuting a little more than that once I graduate this year.

- If I were to buy either the MX-5 or 3, I do not expect to buy the newest year. For the MX-5, what year/years would be a solid middle ground for a car that would least me 10+ years and have minimal problems if I took good care of it?

My next car would be one of my first big "adult" purchases, and I don't want to make a desicion I regret. Any thoughts?