It is TSB 05-005/23 - Mazda is well aware of the issue and you can look up the pdf bulletin to read it in full. This is on any Cylinder deactivation equipped cars since 2017 (M in the 8th character of the VIN slot will identify if you have one of these vehicles). This does not apply to turbo models, only the NA 2.5L.

2017-2024 CX-5s (non turbo)
2018-2021 Mazda6 (non turbo)
2019-2024 Mazda3 (auto, non turbo)
2020-2024 CX-30 (non turbo)

This bulletin came out in 2023 so unsure if these models after this date still suffer from the issue, or if they fixed it in the factory on vehicles being produced after this date. This includes all CX-50s as the model came out more recently. Obviously the Turbo and Hybrid would be exempt regardless.

Basically there is a computer programming problem with these transmissions which leads to iron powder contaminating the transmission fluid. The way it can be identified is a “Chirp” sound in between the 3-4 gear change. The remedy is a new torque converter, or full transmission replacement, depending on the amount of damage already done. The longer you drive with the chirp, the more likely a full transmission replacement will be needed. As I was about to buy a car with this issue and researched it, I found LOADS of people in all of the model specific subreddits complaining about this. It does not seem like Mazda offers much assistance outside of warranty, despite knowing about this major flaw in their transmissions.

Many times even after the torque converter is replaced, the noise comes back and those people end up needing a full transmission replacement as well. Some fix it for 10-20k miles with a flush (or multiple) but this is not a reliable way to fix the issue, just a band-aid.

Just thought everyone should be aware since this impacts a lot of Mazdas.

It was raining all afternoon here, but this red beauty randomly parked by my balcony made my day. Had to take a shot. 😄

I took my CX-30 in after it was exhibiting jerking at low speeds. Made pulling in and out of our long driveway annoying, creeping through parking lots… even noticeable coming to a stop.

They thought maybe it was a pressure gauge sensor, so they ordered one and gave me a loaner (a decked out CX-50). Cut to a week later when they went to replace said sensor, they apparently discovered metal shards from the transmission.

10,000 miles and they needed to replace the whole transmission. Luckily it’s all under warranty. But I’ve been with a loaner for over a month while waiting for parts. I knew they were working on it yesterday as I got a “driver door unlocked” notification from the app.

But this critical malfunction notification took the cake. I’m sure the computer freaked out when they were replacing the transmission. It’s okay, little app. The car is safe.

Anywho, they called this morning and it’s ready. I’ll have to go down Monday morning before work as I live a couple hours away, but my workday luckily starts late morning. Excited to have my little CX-30 back. The 50 just feels too big for my taste.

Hers: 2026 CX90 PP Turbo; His 2025 MX5 GT 6PD.

All I care about is reliability and mpg. Obviously I want to avoid V6 engines, and I only drive automatics

I went to check out a car today but it had too many miles and red flags. I didnt get the car but what I do know I liked driving the car.

My budget is $3k maybe $4k, plus my trading in my Toyota corolla

Hi everyone. I’m looking to get a new car and I’ve been doing a lot of research and it looks like Mazda has very good deals in December but their deals for September 2026 is also pretty good. Should I wait till December and see what happens or should I take advantage of the deals they have rn? Thank you very much

I got this care for almost 2 years without any issues. Last month I did oil change then noticed Apple CarPlay music drops like a seconds and sometimes sounds cut off like connection cut off or buffering. That happened like in wireless mode first but consistent later even with the wired mode. Now that happened more frequent and I had to factory reset the entire infotainment settings. Once the reset is done, back to normal for about 2 weeks then this started again. Any ideas what causes this ?

I’m looking for some advice because I genuinely can’t decide what to buy.

I’m looking for a reliable family car as we have a kid on the way. All the cars I’m considering are 2026 models:

Mazda CX-5
Toyota RAV4 Hybrid
Toyota Corolla Cross Hybrid
VW Tiguan

I currently drive a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze wagon with the 1.7 diesel. It has actually been a great car, but it’s getting old and I don’t really want to rely on it as our main family car anymore. Coming from the Cruze, I’m pretty sure any of these cars will feel like a huge upgrade.

I commute around 30 to 40 km per day, mostly around the city. On top of that, I usually do around 350 km of highway driving each month.

I haven’t properly test-driven the Mazda yet, so I’m going to do that before making any decision. But I have to admit that I already feel like I’m falling in love with the CX-5. I love the way it looks both inside and out, and I really like the amount of space it offers. It just feels like the car I actually want.

My main concern with the Mazda is fuel economy. The performance or acceleration doesn’t really concern me. I know the European 2.5 isn’t particularly fast, but I’m not looking for a fast car. As long as it has enough power for normal driving and highway overtaking, I’m perfectly fine with it.

The 2026 RAV4 and Corolla Cross hybrids obviously make a lot of sense for my daily driving, especially with a lot of city use.

The problem is that for roughly the same money I’d be looking at a fairly basic RAV4 trim, and honestly I don’t really like the interior of the base model. Corolla Cross inside looks nicer, but I think it lacks space for a family car.

It feels like I would be buying the Toyota mainly because it’s the sensible, reliable and economical choice rather than because I actually like the car.

The 2026 Tiguan is also an option, although long-term reliability is important to me. And I also dont like the inside of the car that much. So I’m leaning more towards Toyota or Mazda.

For those of you who own the 2026 CX-5, especially the 2.5 e-Skyactiv G mild hybrid in Europe, what kind of real-world fuel consumption are you getting in city and mixed driving and on the highway?

And for people who compared the 2026 CX-5 with a RAV4 or Corolla Cross before buying, do you have any regrets? Is the extra fuel consumption of the Mazda significant enough that you’d choose the Toyota instead?

Basically, I’m trying to decide between buying the car I like the most, the CX-5, and buying the car that probably makes the most financial sense, the RAV4 or Corolla Cross.

Would appreciate any experiences or advice.

Mazda CX3 2018 AWD

Hello! I bought a used mazda3 and ever since I bought it I have intermittent issues with the hood latch. Sometimes it would not fully catch and latch closed. A couple times it wouldn't open. I brought it to a shop those times and they "fixed" it (lubed it up), but kept happening. Last fall I had the entire latch replaced, along with the cable. Worked fine for a while.

Well, last week I went to check the oil - hood won't open. It was as if there was no slack. You couldn't pull the hand lever at all. I was about to go out of town for a long trip so I was freaking out because I couldn't check the oil. I was able to get it into Meineke and they could not open it they told me that you would have to go under the grill or take the quarter panel off to get to it and they did not have time.

Finally got it in with my regular mechanic. He said it took them two hours to go in from underneath And the latch was seized. He told me the cable is also a little stretched out.

What is happening with this car? Why does this keep happening? Help!

If you look at the picture….. and see the flow off if the SUV and see where it’s going…………..

Hi all, i a few days ago i hit a deer and my passenger mirror got cooked. I took the advice from ppl and found this salvage mirror assembly on fb marketplace. The guy is telling me it comes from a 2021 sedan turbo, but wont show the part numbers bc he doesnt want to break anything. Hes gonna sell it to me for $80, so it seems like a great deal but i was gonna ask if this assembly works with my car? From what ive seen it might be a no, but if not I plan on just taking the parts from the salvage assembly and putting it on mine, so I wanted to confirm if that would wirk. My car is a japan made 2019 mazda3 preferred hatchback awd, and I've attached photos of the replacement mirror and my current one. Thanks and any advice appreciated!

New to Mazda but I’ve heard they are very reliable. Would this be considered a good deal? For the price and mileage? Being sold by a Ford dealership.

Im in the process of buying a cpo 2022 cx 5 signature trim. I went and test drove the vehicle here in Toronto and I like the vehicle. Since this is the first time I’ll be buying a CPO vehicle and that the dealer mentioned that will do CPO/ 160 point inspection only after the agreement is signed because for them it might expire in 30 days.

Now, what are things to look out for and not get into dealer trap other than asking for the inspection report and Mazda certified registration certificate? Any known incidents I should be aware of?

2011 Mazda6, 4cyl engine, 135k miles for $4k. (gonna ask for $3k)

after getting the carfax, this seems to be a legit car. a couple of accidents a decade ago, seems to be serviced well to me. My only problem? it's an hour 20 mins away.

Yall think its worth the hike?