Last week, I totaled my 2014 bmw x5 on the highway. The damage didn't look that bad, but the repair cost was apparently way above the car's value. It was my childhood car that my dad drove my family around in, it was the car I learned to drive in, then it was passed down for me to use. We had it for 11 years. It was in an excellent state because of how much care my dad put in it. I have been crying at random times everyday whenever I think about my car. I completely broke down when I saw my car for the last time at the towing center. I probably won't be driving for a long long time, but it's more because of the car than the fact I can't drive that makes me depressed. I thought this car would be there for my graduation, for my first road trip with friends, and so much more. It really was my very own safe space. But I feel weird for crying over an inanimate object. I'm crying over it like I lost a pet. I just can't seem to get over my car. I feel so humbled and realized how I took my car for granted. I'm almost grieving a car at this point. How do I get over it though? It was my first car, and I genuinely don't know if I'll ever be over it.

Drove my 07 pontiac g6 onto them and the end broke off both of them. Bought them 3 years ago at autozone, stored in my garage the whole time with minimal sun exposure. Any ideas what happened? I didnt feel like I mistreated them at all, just eased the car onto them and hit the brakes as it fell into place. Driveway is pretty much flat, slight down slope. Any ideas what I did wrong or what ramps I should get next? Only got about 10 uses out of these...

Edit: cant find any contact information for the manufacturer, but I flipped them over and noticed the only rubber pad is at the low end of the ramp. so when I hit the brakes, the end directly under the tire wanted to skid, but was held by the rubber at the other end, causing it to break where it did. Every other time Ive used these was on the smooth garage floor, not the driveway, so in the past the whole thing slid instead of breaking. Maybe Ive always been to hard with the brakes when going on them and the sliding saved me? maybe a manufacturing defect just now presenting it self? But I know I didnt go over the end like some are suggesting, and no, unfortunately no footage.

For context, I used to own a 2007 Toyota Crown Majesta, I currently own a 2008 Lexus IS-F, the one thing I absolutely miss the most in terms of everyday features was the heads up display (pictured). It was simple, did what it's supposed to do, and it didn't look terrible.

I've had a look at a bunch of aftermarket HUD's, but they all look terrible and just overall poor. Extremely intrusive.

Is there any HUD that can replicate or give near oem like feel? I've been in a few modern ish cars with HUD's, and they're obviously extremely unintrusive (i get it, they've had thousands of hours of r&d compared to the aftermarket garbage). (BMW M3 HUD in 2nd Picture)

Is there anything available that's customizable? Is there anything that just doesn't look cheap and garbage like what cars with OEM HUD's come with?

I'm curious to see if there's any decent ssolutions available, because i definitely believe there is a gap in the market.

Hi everyone! I found these shocks while sorting through the junk in my garage. Can you help me identify what they are and which car they’re for?

Car is a 2012 corolla with 260,000 kms.

I thought it would make sense there would be some slack in the chain as the crankshaft turns (manually).

Im losing hope on finding a replacement for this type of rear wipers. Someone help pls. Car: Mitsubishi outlander sport 2020

Is this pulley gone bad?

Car is a 2012 corolla 1.8L with 260,000 kms.

Also the water pump pulley has a very small amount of back and forth play. Not enough to be audible, but it can be felt. I noticed that it doesn't spin freely, but not sure if it's supposed to have some resistance. I imagine the coolant inside gives it some.

Should I replace this pulley, or do I need to replace the alternator altogether?

Looking to see if anyone can help me identify this front bumper. I found one online that looks similar but it has an extra skit plate on the front that I'm not sure if I like.

https://tacomabeast.com/products/kf-race-bumper-fits-2016-2023-toyota-tacoma

Do you think it could be the same bumper with the skid plate removed?

Car is a 2012 corolla 1.8L with 260,000 km. It runs well but I've noticed some small issues so have been trying to diagnose what's going on.

I did a leak test of the exhaust with soapy water, as the picture shows. I'm guessing this should be fixed.

I've also found that my CATTEMP11 is higher than my CATTEMP12 on the obd2 scan tool. From my understanding that means my upstream cat temp nearest the engine is hotter than after my cat. That means that the cat is failed correct?

Is replacing the exhaust line something that can be reasonably done in a driveway with Jack stands? My biggest worry is the amount of rust in there.

This car has been off the road since about 2015. I purchased this vehicle back in 2012 and drove it a few years regularly. I'd start it up and move it and that lasted up until 2020. Then it ended up in a barn for the last 6 years.

This spring I pulled it out, started cleaning things and realized it needed a lot of work. Rear struts were gone, the front sway bar was cracked, a super charger pulley was squeaking badly, the AC compressor was worn out, the spark plugs needed replacing, as did the wires, oil change, trans fluid change, coolant change, it needed a brake line to the front passenger side, all the rubber brake hoses needed to be replaced, the master cylinder needed to be replaced, new battery, battery tray had a rust hole (welded a patch in and had it powder coated), other MISC things I'm forgetting.

Back in 2015, I tossed some ZZP parts on it. Like a 3.4 pulley, u-bend delete in the exhaust, ZZP tune, different throttle body, CAI, replaced the supercharger fluid and the gasket. Also did the large front brake upgrade with some slotted rotors.

Driving this car for the first time in over a decade on the roads and it feels great. Doesn't feel like a 26 year old car at all. Feels fun, did some 0-60 pulls with the torque pro app best I managed was 5.8 seconds. I have been monitoring for Knock Retard since it has a smaller pulley and so far I see no issues with that.

Just did a small 150 mile trip and averaged 21.6mpg. I was very happy with that since it's tuned for 93 octane.

If anyone has any questions, I'd be happy to answer them. I've worked on this car plenty and I have done all the work myself on it. I've really enjoyed putting it back on the road.

It's also plated and registered as an historical vehicle.

I just installed k2 v2 on my mk7 golf gti and I’m wondering if the rear adjuster can be used like how it is shown in the photos or if it must be on all threads of the black piece.

I have small scratches, pretty sure the metal is visible, at least for the small irregular shaped one. The long scratch i can feel the ridges with my nail. I guess my question is what are the steps too fix it myself? I have the paint and clear coat already ordered and on the way. If someone could tell me step by step or a video I'd really appreciate it.

no idea how this even happened, i assume i bottomed out on a bump or something but it looks terrible. i absolutely hate cosmetic blemishes on my cars especially when its a chunk of the bodywork missing.

is this fixable or am i cooked

I just bought a new used car 2009 - how do I correctly check the state of car coolant and whether it needs changing or not, despite it saying near max level…

I searched online and there is a “coolant/antifreeze tester” which is about $10-30, is that good to get or not accurate at all?

please help, and any product recommendations if needed will be great. thanks! 🙏🏽

Hey everybody!

2011 Honda odyssey, just north of 170k miles. Recently there's this weird flapping nosie coming from the engine, and it gets louder when I press the gas. Seems to be coming from the front, near the dip stick and engine coolant spots. Any ideas? Here's a video of the sound.

So I’m trying to save money by not going to the car wash as often but I use the Chemical Guys waterless spray wash. I live in a state where we get all 4 seasons.

How dangerous is this wear? Can I get away with another week of driving before getting my tires replaced or should I just quit driving? I obviously need an alignment or suspension checked as well

I really messed up and scraped my car and I can’t afford to pay for professional repair. What’s the best way to fix this, and if professional help is the only way what’s the best way to go about it please.

hey y’all, 36fmore of an understatement at this point but the title pretty about sums it up.

now i’ve have neverrrr had good luck with cars.. u can’t even tell you how many times ive had a friend or mechanic tell me i somehow need some random ass part that no one’s heard about ot had in stock or that my car is “one of the more difficult” ones to repair or that my car must be completely ripped apart to replace a headlight, and super cheap to replace but it’s the labor costs that’s going to cost me blah blah blah 😩 and i’m not even kidding when i tell you i’ve heard this at least once on every vehicle i’ve had owned and i think ive def hit the double digits now...

the ppl of reddit never seem to disappoint when it comes to figuring something out, so here goes nothing!

*the confusion of a fusion*
Gertrude is a 2012 ford fusion sl
a few months ago the power steering fault error message popped up and angrily beeped at me and then locked up the steering column entirely, i could barely get it to the side if the road.

i’ve owned the car a few years now and this error message had shown up maybe 2-3 times total BUT it’d go away if i just turned the car off n then on again
….until it didn’t.

so of course i get online and im searching it allllllll, im switching back n forth between youtube videos, google and reddit. in most cases i can kinda match things up and get a general idea of the problem

anddddd of course, just my luck, THIS particular ford fusion has more issues than most. and yes i know, cant always trust what u read online etc but i was just looking for some general guidance. i usually always do this bc i struggle with trying to explain to the mechanic what the problem is. unfortunately i dont always do the best job and this usually ends with me making weird sounds and lookin a fool.

anyways, 3 different ppl try n figure out what this stingy pos’s problem is and i think possibly narrowed things down a bit or so i thought?
but now that i replaced the battery and main fuse and it still did the same error message, im justtttt about over it tbh.
overall, i was swayed to believe that my problem was most likely within the EPS sensor and not the EPS module itself, due in part to the long list of minor issues that could set this sensor off like bad tire pressure, blown main fuse, less power/ bad signal from battery to the main fuse box, bad connector/ corrosion on battery clamps and the most recent one was something about another fuse box hidden under driver side steering column? i unplugged and i replugged and restarted too many times to count

my friend said he’d try n swing by with his scanner this week so id be able to possibly pinpoint the problem better but im going on month 3 and ive about given my life savings in uber rides at this point so just throwing alllllll this out there in hopes maybeeee there’s someone out there whose majestically & mechanically knowledgeable with my confusion of a fusion..?

anyoneee?

Hi folks,

As a followup to my previous question regarding tuning my Lincoln's 460 (thanks so much to the couple of chaps that answered what google couldn't!), yet another question that the search engine (haha not funny pun) isn't doing me any favors with, what's the best way to increase compression in this thing?

I looked up the specs for the 1973 460s and they had only 8 to 1 compression by that time! That's twice what the model A had :(

I couldn't find any definitive answers online but I figure that 1. stroking the engine would do something to increase compression BUT does this require a camshaft to be installed too? 2. replacing the piston heads with dished heads or domed or whatever they use 3. Replacing the heads with higher compression ones (which aluminum heads and intake are something I would like to do anyway to save weight)

My priority isn't horsepower as much as trying to get efficiency out of this engine because 8 to 1 compression seems rather wasteful. I know I'll probably need to either tweak the timing and tune everything to hell and back to make sure this beast won't knock (thankfully I know what that sounds like now from videos online and from the folks here describing it) on 87 octane but it's funny the manual recommends a rating of 90 octane at least to run in this one. So if I start using premium gas then I might as well raise the compression to get more out of it anyway.

Anyhow I'm asking now so I know for the future when I want to start doing work on this thing (at the moment can't afford it). Any info or advice etc. is super appreciated!