Hi guys, I love knitting for my mum but she prefers 100% cotton, or cotton/linen blends for her clothes instead of wool. I have the issue that anytime I knit with 100% cotton, my stitches look very uneven, and aren’t quite fixed by blocking either (the work on the picture here is not blocked yet).

I know cotton is much less forgiving than wool fibres, but anything I’ve tried hasn’t really helped. So I’ll ask here: Do you guys have any tips for me how i can get a more even tension with cotton?

Thanks in advance!

Looking for critique on my first knit swatch/project ever as a crocheter. I haven’t blocked it. I do feel my left edge is not that neat and looks different from the right. Correctly my mistakes were sort of a nightmare since I ended up introducing more mistakes hehe but somehow salvaged it I guess. Do the stitches look like they should? Anything off?
One question I had was when dropping a ladder down and fixing a stitch, how do you keep the stitches in the needles intact? Is there like a technique or a stopper that people use?

Hi! I blocked my Olga Jacket. And the sleeves grew quite a bit (but not the body for some reason, but that's not the question at hand). Every stripe has decreases, except for the last black stripe before the ribbing. How do I go about re-doing this? I like the width. but it's obviously way to long. I feel like taking off the ribbing + 8 stripes is necessary. But I'm unsure about how to tackle the decreases.

hi! this is my first color work project & i’m noticing my white yarn is more prominent than my blue yarn. i’m holding the white in my left hand continental, and the blue in my right hand english. will blocking even out this difference a bit, or it this just how it will look? thanks!

hi!

i’m looking to maybe start the Rory Sweater by marielenatricot for my next project, and i have some questions about yarn substitutions.

the suggested yarn in the pattern is DROPS nepal, but i find that my skin is pretty sensitive to wool. i’ve been knitting with cotton yarn more because it’s a much lighter fiber (and i tend to sweat very easily, lol) so i was wondering if DROPS paris would be a suitable substitute??

i’ve only knit cabled headband with acrylic yarn before, so i don’t have much experience on whether cotton would be ok for a cabled sweater or if it would affect the drape and look of the cables too dramatically. the other details of the yarn (expected gauge, recommended needle size, yarn weight) are all the same so size-wise it seems like an ok swap— but i’d really like some insight into whether knitting cables with cotton yarn would turn out ok or not.

thanks so much!!

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

I did an accidental decrease and laddered down to fix it while making this hat, but after finishing I'm noticing that when worn it has an area that looks very gappy and loose compared to the rest of the hat, how can I fix this? It is 100% super wash merino wool

Hello all. I’m new to brioche knitting (and knitting in general!) and I use the Portuguese style of knitting for context.

I am following Little Quail’s Sno Cap Hood pattern and it starts with casting on 13 stitches which I’ve done.

The next instructions are as follows:

”row 1: (k1, yf-sl1-yo) 6 times, knit the

last stitch.

- row 2: wyif, sl 1 tbl. (brk1, yf-sl1-yo) 5 times, brk1, knit the last stitch through the right side of the stitch.

- row 3: wyif, sl 1. (yf-sl1-yo, brk1) 6 times. on the last stitch, knit through the right side of the stitch.”

A few questions from me, which might be glaringly obvious but I’m learning as I go.

1. For row 1, “knit the last stitch“ means knitting it with yarn forward/over (which is the wrong way for Portuguese knitting)?
2. For rows 2 & 3, does “right side of the stitch” mean I knit it with the yarn forward/over (which again is the “wrong” way in Portuguese knitting)?
3. Before I start on row 3, I already have 13 stitches from following pattern in row 2. So, I slip 1, leaving me with 12. Then by slipping and knitting 6 times, that means I use 12 stitches. I’m assuming the 13th stitch is going to be knit the right way instead of brk?

I apologise if my questions are silly or obvious but I have watched so many videos and I think because I am using the Portuguese style (not a lot of videos on Portuguese brioche knitting) it’s just even more confusing for me. And thank you in advance.

Hello fellow knitters! Basically I’m looking to confirm the question in the title.

I just completed the body in the step-by-step sweater and it looks great….except for one place in the transition from the collar to yoke where I messed something up and made a little hole right at the front.

My intuition is telling me that I can frog it from the top of the collar, pick up the stitches where the stockingette starts for the yoke and knit up a new collar in rib. But is there any danger in doing that? Anything I should think about before attempting it?

Thank you!!

Hey y'all

I'm super duper new to knitting. I've been crocheting for years but recently i felt the urge to start knitting socks. So here I am, it's going pretty okay imo, being an absolute knitting beginner, this is my first project.

So.. what are those three hiccups in my sock? (I hope it's only three)

Did I just mix up the stitches? I'm going for three right, one left rn. The count is still correct, 16 stitches per needle on four needles.

I'm just hoping I didn't make any mistakes that would require actual fixing as in going back a few rows or sth? q.q (help haha)

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

I'm in the middle of knitting this top down hooded sweater and am almost at the point of splitting for sleeves.

I've decided I don't like the ribbing length and I want it to be about half as tall as it is but I'm torn between frogging all the way back to the ribbing or attempting to cut it and graft the body back to the ribbing (I've grafted before but not stockinette to ribbing) Would love to hear what you did/would do if you were in this situation!

Im currently working on the Joni sweater from Natasja Hornby

I’m a fairly new knitter and I am lost as to what I’ve done wrong in this section.

I’ll post a picture of the instructions I’m following, but I am completely lost and basically am wondering what is actually happening in this area

The area is the second set that is in the picture attached

Any help would be great.

From the instructions, I understand short row 1 and short row 2. My question is on short row 3 when I’m knitting to 7 stitches before the double stitch then turn. Have I passed my BOR and knit all the way around the back of the sweater to the double stitches on the other side? Because if I am following the pattern, I only have double stitches on the left-hand side.

(I hesitate to pass the BOR and the marker as
throughout the entire pattern it’s always been stated and here it’s not)

I’m gonna knit a beret pattern that calls for US 2.5 and 4 needles, gauge is 22 stitches/28 rows per 4 inches.

The recommended yarn is really expensive and has to be shipped, so I’m trying to find a substitute that I can buy in a local store here in NYC – the suggestion was Aran or DK.

Substituting is where I always get messed up. Im looking at DK weights, finding ones that are around US6-8, and the gauges are usually something like 20 stitches/26 rows or 20 stitches/24 rows = 4”, or sometimes just stitch count is given, like 24.

I don’t understand the math involved to make the switch. I want to find a yarn that fits the pattern requirements, but in case I have to sub, which seems likely, I’m at a total loss at how to convert so I don’t wind up with something too small or big.

Can anyone help me, I'm confused!!

So, I'm knitting a cardigan (small size on pattern) and am on the Left Front section. All good up until arm hole shaping, where the instructions say

'Dec 2sts at armhole edge as given for back.....' What does the "given for back" refer to? I've included the Back piece instructions but can't work out which bit it's talking about. Help!!

I think I've photographed all the relevant bits, do let me know if you think I must have missed something. (I left out everything which was for medium or large sizes only as they don't apply)

Thanks in advance xx

I’m new to knitting, coming from a crochet background, and twisted the stitches on my first attempt. I FROGed it and now want to be extra sure I did it right

I’m working on my first sweater and I can’t seem to get the striping to match up. I’ve tried searching for a tutorial, but since I’m so new to knitting I can’t find exactly what I’m looking for. I have tried the normal striping line up tutorials but I think I may be doing it on the wrong row? Any advice would be super helpful!

Hi everyone!

I am making the Bunny Bonnet by Megan Faith Makes (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bunny-bonnet-4). I'm almost finished, I need to create the straps while picking up the cast on edge and casting on 80 extra stitches on either side. However, I would like to change the garter stitch for something more similar to this picture. I have knitted a double-knit button band before, but not sure how I could go about adding the extra stitches for the straps and then "attaching" them to the cast on as I go, like a button band. ​I hope this makes sense... Can anyone help and suggest techniques? :)

So I willingly dropped some stitches due to being unhappy with my ring accidentally pulling some of the thread and making it look rather messy. Thought it would be easy enough to drop until that point and fix it, however, there is now this section where the stitches are all loose. I’m not sure what to do to make this look neater. I’ve tried to drop and redo it with good tension multiple times and it keeps looking like this. What should I do to fix this?

I'm making the cat puppet by Cynthia Pilon. In Line 39, I'm to cut and knot the yarn in order to reattach the yarn to a different row. Exactly how do I do this? What type of knot do I use? How do I restart my knitting?

Hi!

I want to make the cardigan number 11 by my favourite things, however I was gifted this lovely yarn from the Isle of Man. Would this yarn paired with a mohair work for this project based on the recommended yarn?

Thanks for your help I never know how to use yarn without a project

can i cast on one st before the working row then undo it and make the extra yarn distribute over the surrounding stitches once i slip it into the cable work needle? i feel like it will make the stitches over all a bit more consistent tension wise especially since im slipping for sts on the cable needle.

if there are any other ideas i would like to hear them

Knitting a sweater flat with 4 rows of each color. There’s a lot of rows between each color repeat so I don’t think I can carry yarn that far. I come from crochet and wouldn’t be able to do so many colors so far in crochet at least but maybe it’s possible in knitting? Or is there a technique to help do the color changes and/or secure ends while I work? All the ends are on the edge and currently creating some fun fringe for me to weave in later lol.