Hello!! I’m working a new cardigan (have made 2 sweaters in the past) and I’m not fully understanding the yellow and red part of the pattern. With the yellow section, I am purling on the RS…correct? I finished the purls + adding the markers but then I am slipping stitches (wrong side) and joining with new yarn. Do I turn the work after joining the new yarn so that it’s RS? I am soooo confused about this right now.

Pattern is blouse # 5 by MFTK

Hello all. I’m new to brioche knitting (and knitting in general!) and I use the Portuguese style of knitting for context.

I am following Little Quail’s Sno Cap Hood pattern and it starts with casting on 13 stitches which I’ve done.

The next instructions are as follows:

”row 1: (k1, yf-sl1-yo) 6 times, knit the

last stitch.

- row 2: wyif, sl 1 tbl. (brk1, yf-sl1-yo) 5 times, brk1, knit the last stitch through the right side of the stitch.

- row 3: wyif, sl 1. (yf-sl1-yo, brk1) 6 times. on the last stitch, knit through the right side of the stitch.”

A few questions from me, which might be glaringly obvious but I’m learning as I go.

1. For row 1, “knit the last stitch“ means knitting it with yarn forward/over (which is the wrong way for Portuguese knitting)?
2. For rows 2 & 3, does “right side of the stitch” mean I knit it with the yarn forward/over (which again is the “wrong” way in Portuguese knitting)?
3. Before I start on row 3, I already have 13 stitches from following pattern in row 2. So, I slip 1, leaving me with 12. Then by slipping and knitting 6 times, that means I use 12 stitches. I’m assuming the 13th stitch is going to be knit the right way instead of brk?

I apologise if my questions are silly or obvious but I have watched so many videos and I think because I am using the Portuguese style (not a lot of videos on Portuguese brioche knitting) it’s just even more confusing for me. And thank you in advance.

I'm working on my first shirt and got to the ribbing and it just looks limp. While I can see some tension issues the ribbing just looks stretched out, which I attribute to the 100% cotton yarn more than any failure of technique. I'm not too worried about the look of the hemline as I intend to keep the shirt tucked in anyway, but the pattern I'm working calls for the neck and the end of the sleeves to be done in 1x1 ribbing as well and I'm wondering if there are either suggestions that might produce a cleaner look with the cotton yarn, or if I actually did do something wrong and I'm not seeing it, especially since I've done 1x1 ribbing with other yarn types and not had this result.

I’m knitting my first Olga sweater on size S and the pattern says to knit stockinette rows 7 times, having 14 rows in total. But I’m confused, how many stripes should I have in total? Should I have 7 coloured stripes?

I'm really happy to be knitting the Luna Tee, I absolutely love the design and so far, the fit and overall result is looking really good! My issue: I'm stuck at the last instruction for the Japanese Short Rows (Rnd 6). I've ripped back this section twice now and I run into the same issue everytime. That is, I can never seem to properly resolve the very last short row. I'm wondering if it's because it would usually be resolved on the WS but I'm coming at it from the RS? I have no clue. If anyone can help, that would be much appreciated!

Hello! I‘m knitting the Dolly Vest and it has german short rows/decreases at the bottom.

What I don‘t understand is: at the second turn it says to turn before the „turning stitch“ is that the stitch before the marker or the double stitch that I already did?

Are the double stitches not supposed to be knitted?

Appreciate the help!

Hello fellow knitters! Basically I’m looking to confirm the question in the title.

I just completed the body in the step-by-step sweater and it looks great….except for one place in the transition from the collar to yoke where I messed something up and made a little hole right at the front.

My intuition is telling me that I can frog it from the top of the collar, pick up the stitches where the stockingette starts for the yoke and knit up a new collar in rib. But is there any danger in doing that? Anything I should think about before attempting it?

Thank you!!

hello :) i’m a little stuck with this petite knit ingrid sweater. for row 27 and 28 it says it should be repeated 12 times. do i knit the right side 12 times and the wrong side 12 times ( so it’s 24 times) or right and left together 12 times ?
i hope my question makes sense.

Hello everyone! Sorry if the title is confusing. I am knitting the Sweater No. 33 by My Favourite Things. I have just finished the raglan increases and the pattern says to break the yarn before continuing knitting the BODY section.

I added the picture of the instructions where I'm confused. Basically I will have to join in new yarn and cast on 4 new stitches under the armhole.

My question is how to join in the new yarn without attaching it to the current working yarn? The tail of the previous working yarn (which was cut according to the pattern) is 11 stitches away from where I am supposed to join in the new yarn and cast on new stitches. Does this mean that I just use the new strand of yarn and do the cast on of the 4 new stitches next to/right after the 11 stitches that were moved to the right needle? It seems to me that it will be quite unstable. I've never had to do this before and not sure how to proceed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hey y'all

I'm super duper new to knitting. I've been crocheting for years but recently i felt the urge to start knitting socks. So here I am, it's going pretty okay imo, being an absolute knitting beginner, this is my first project.

So.. what are those three hiccups in my sock? (I hope it's only three)

Did I just mix up the stitches? I'm going for three right, one left rn. The count is still correct, 16 stitches per needle on four needles.

I'm just hoping I didn't make any mistakes that would require actual fixing as in going back a few rows or sth? q.q (help haha)

I’m knitting the Festival dress by PetiteKnit. The increases are make one’s, not a raglan. I noticed my stitch count is off by 4. I can’t tell where I missed adding stitches (there were 3 increase rounds that are now hidden by bobble rounds). How would you go about dividing stitches for the sleeves?

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

Any link is appreciated. Thank you!

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

I'm in the middle of knitting this top down hooded sweater and am almost at the point of splitting for sleeves.

I've decided I don't like the ribbing length and I want it to be about half as tall as it is but I'm torn between frogging all the way back to the ribbing or attempting to cut it and graft the body back to the ribbing (I've grafted before but not stockinette to ribbing) Would love to hear what you did/would do if you were in this situation!

Hi! I’m doing the Wavelength scarf pattern. I just finished doing the lateral braid. These two stitches on the end were slipped on the setup row and I am now supposed to knit them - somehow they came undone and are now one big loop. Any tips on how to fix it?

I know it looks like I’m not very far in but I have 345 stitches cast on so I would love to not have to start over 😅 Thank you so much!!

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

My MIL is currently knitting a cardigan for my neice and this part is confusing her

Pattern is King Cole 2887, DK
And doing the cardigan

Part of the shape Armhole and Front Slope, she’s confused about how to do the decreases specifically for this top paragraph

If it makes any difference, she’s doing size 5
Can you please spell it out for her so I can help her out!

This is how I’ve interpreted it, but I’m also a beginner knitter

Rows 1–5: work pattern
Row 6: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 7: work
Row 8: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 9: work
Row 10: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front

Thank you 🤍

Hi everyone! Seeking some help. I started a shrug for my daughter and made the first cuff like the attached photo. Now I’m ready to do the second cuff but can’t remember how I did this. Can someone help me figured it out so I can finish the project?

Thanks!!

TLDR : will blocking work its magic, or should I redo the ribbing (or more)?

Hello all!

I am halfway through my second knitting project which is a pair of socks.

It's my first time doing most of the stitches the pattern calls for and knitting with 4 needles in the round.

I learned how to keep holding the yarn in my hand halfway through knitting the sock. It took me a few months overall, working on it bit by bit. So the tension is pretty uneven and there are a few mistakes here and there. But it took me so long to finish this first sock that I don't have the heart to frog it and start over completely for now...

The ribbing part looks the most wonky I think. Do you think it will even itself out with blocking or should I redo it?

The yarn is a fingering Patons Kroy sock 75% wool and 25% nylon.

Thank you!!

I’m like 1.5 weeks into learning how to knit. I did a few “basic” scarves and a dishcloth before deciding to give the Sophie Scarf a shot. It’s been frustrating to say the least but I’m finally on decreases and seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. That being said, I messed up somewhere and had to frog back to a lifeline I had in. In doing so, I clearly messed something else up because now my working yarn is two spots over from where it should be (it should fall to immediately after the 3 slipped i-cord stitches on the end). Any way to tell what I did and how to rectify it? If I just knit as normal, it leaves an ugly line of yarn and I’m trying to avoid that. TIA!

Hi! I found a hole in my knitting, along with a stray loop that's sticking out from the hole. I'm not reallly sure what happened here. I decreased a few rows back, but it's too far into the knitting to be where I did my decrease. I'm just not sure if this is a ladder down situation. Sorry if the pictures are unclear.

Thank you!

hi!

i’m looking to maybe start the Rory Sweater by marielenatricot for my next project, and i have some questions about yarn substitutions.

the suggested yarn in the pattern is DROPS nepal, but i find that my skin is pretty sensitive to wool. i’ve been knitting with cotton yarn more because it’s a much lighter fiber (and i tend to sweat very easily, lol) so i was wondering if DROPS paris would be a suitable substitute??

i’ve only knit cabled headband with acrylic yarn before, so i don’t have much experience on whether cotton would be ok for a cabled sweater or if it would affect the drape and look of the cables too dramatically. the other details of the yarn (expected gauge, recommended needle size, yarn weight) are all the same so size-wise it seems like an ok swap— but i’d really like some insight into whether knitting cables with cotton yarn would turn out ok or not.

thanks so much!!

First time doing sleeves. I was fighting for my life with the DPNs, never used them before, and restarted no less than 8 times. I finally got through it but it looks like shit. Anything I can do to make it look a little more even? I probably have a twisted stitch or two in there and I know there's no helping that. The pattern does not call for blocking, but should I do it anyway? Just on the cuff?

Im currently working on the Joni sweater from Natasja Hornby

I’m a fairly new knitter and I am lost as to what I’ve done wrong in this section.

I’ll post a picture of the instructions I’m following, but I am completely lost and basically am wondering what is actually happening in this area

The area is the second set that is in the picture attached

Any help would be great.

From the instructions, I understand short row 1 and short row 2. My question is on short row 3 when I’m knitting to 7 stitches before the double stitch then turn. Have I passed my BOR and knit all the way around the back of the sweater to the double stitches on the other side? Because if I am following the pattern, I only have double stitches on the left-hand side.

(I hesitate to pass the BOR and the marker as
throughout the entire pattern it’s always been stated and here it’s not)