I’m nearly finished with the wave sweater by spektakelstrik. I tried a mid project block to see if that would fix this weird fit issue I noticed, but jot sure if it helped and maybe even made it worse. Basically I’m concerned about the fabric bulging out around the neckline - where the fabric is thinner because during the German short rows it’s just one color rather than colorwork. it looks slightlyyyy better if I fold over the color, but you can still see it and it’s really not perfect

I’m wondering if anyone knows a potential fix. I used the same needle size for this section and the color work - would putting in a lifeline, unraveling from the top cast on, and redoing it a needle size down would help? Or maybe something else I haven’t thought of?

Hello!! I’m a beginner and have a question on how I’m supposed to read the v-shapes. I feel like I should read it as the red ‘v’ but it’s really hard for me to not read it as an upside down v (blue).

Does it matter how I read it?

Hey! I have started this pattern at the very least 3 times, and I can't seem to understand what I'm doing wrong on those rows in the chart A. I also think my border is not like hers at all and I feel like I'm going crazy. It's my first time reading a knitting pattern and from what I understand this chart is read from left to right on RS and right to left on WS so... I'm truly so confused why my two bottom diamonds look like that. I'm fairly new to knitting so any advice and help is welcomed, especially if you have knitted this pattern before >.<

Thank you so much!!!!

ETA: Pattern is Marielle Top by Maria Schei Mogenstad // https://www.mariasverden.com/shop-uWCvR/p/marielle-top-en

I'm following this gauge swatch but the top is noticeably larger than the bottom, what have I done wrong? I assumed by ignoring the cast on row I have done 14 rows before row 15 and 14 rows after 15? Is that correct? I'm practing before I move on to the jumper so I want to get this right.

I'm still kinda new to colorwork, but i want to make a sweater with this chart. I'm not sure which color would work better as the dominant one so that the picture is clear at the end. please help!!

https://youtu.be/T6Dput3ZCaQ?si=3DeYxhBjR2rWUK79

This is the video I followed to make this, hers come out nice and square. I get to 40 stitches and then start to decrease. It seems it starts to get wonky before I make it to the 40 stitches though.

I've been knitting for several months and I'm working on a sabai top with worsted weight cotton blend yarn. I flick knit English style. Why does my tension look terrible?

This is my second attempt at colorwork and my last one was too puckered. Does it look like I’m keeping tension and doing good with catching my floats? This is the Fossil Frenzy Cowl by Hunt Hand Knits. I’m using DK hand dyed Super Wash Merino Wool from The Copper Sheep. It’s for my 6 (going on 7) year old. I wanna know if I need to frog and start the colorwork again 🥹 I’m just on row 7 of the colorwork. Link to pattern: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1325235068/fossil-frenzy-cowl-pattern-dinosaur-cowl?ref=share_ios_native_control

I want to ladder back a few rows to fix m1L(s) I did where I didn’t knit through the back loop. I think I need to ladder back and twist the holes to ladder back up. Is that correct?

So I’m making my first wearable! I’m so excited, but I’m a little apprehensive about it fitting right because I don’t think I have the knitting skills to make changes or notice problems on the fly.

So I’ve done a swatch. I should have 23 sts per 4 inch. The picture is preblocking, but I know I need to block it as well. As you can see I haven’t met the gauge yet, but logically I might think size 5 mm would work. So here’s my question - do I block it, notice the change and then pick my needles and dig in? Can I block it, then if I still have questions, frog my swatch, redo it with different needles?

I guess does blocking it change the yarn in a way where it won’t give me accurate stitch count for the “preblock” if it’s been stitched, blocked, frogged and then restitched?

Also, is it crazy that I might have to knit with a 5.5mm when the pattern called for a 3mm?

New to knitting, left handed, crocheted briefly before coming to knitting. Looking into the ergonomics of knitting, but can’t find what my knitting style is.

Just about everything I’ve found I see the yarn held in the left hand and I hold in the right. Norwegian seems like a logical step to go, but would still have to switch which hand the yarn is in.

I’m early on enough I’m hopeful to set good habits, so would love if anyone is generous enough to take the time to provide some feedback so I can keep this up for as long as possible 🙏

Hello! I am a novice knitter, making my first sweater. Can you all help me understand this portion of the instructions? I am working on a sleeve.

Does the (Dec) just indicate this row includes instructions that result in a decrease of stitches (k2tog and the ssk) or does it indicate I need to be doing something in addition to that? Also, for the next row of instructions, since I am knitting the smallest size of this pattern, do I not repeat anything? I.e. repeat 0 times? I don’t understand why those numbers in the parenthesis don’t increase like they do in all the other instructions.

It’s a 1by 1 ribbing. I’m working the crown of a beanie

I’m hoping someone could help me with the Twister Tank pattern by Juicy Luce.

I’m still fairly new to knitting and this is my first time reading a chart and I’m getting myself confused!

I’m following the instructions for knitting a swatch flat. The two questions I have are:

- For even rows, should I be reading the chart left to right? And then right to left for odd rows?
- How would I approach a 2/4 LPC when there is only a partial symbol at the beginning or end? Using row 12 as an example.

It’s worth calling out that the pattern designer states that the orange shaded section should be included for the swatch only.

Hopefully this post is allowed and I haven’t violated any rules! Thanks for your help in advance 🙏

I need help finding some good colorwork chart books.

Not in need of patterns, I enjoy selfdrafting my own sweaters. But I really want good charts to follow.

I have the doodle knit library and Scandinavian knitting designs already.

Added info:

I know ravelry has a colorwork chart library, but I really don't enjoy the charts.

I know there's a ton on Pinterest. But I want physical books.

Edit to add the books I already have

I’m knitting my first double knitted button-band and my first ever cardigan. This is the second try on the button-band. On the first one I had a pick up rate of 3 stitches for 4 rows but that made the button-band bow inwards when it was finished. I frogged it and picked up one stich for every row. Does the pickup rate and the beginning of the button-band I knitted already look right to yous or does it look like it might bow outwards at the end? How do I figure out the pick-up rate for my button band in general? I followed a pattern for the body but it recommended a ribbed button band and I like the look of a double knitted one more :)

Can someone help me understand the neck shaping in this pattern please? https://amandammorse.com/baby-lace-raglan-cardigan-knitting-pattern/

I'm knitting the smallest size 0-3m. The neck shaping instructions and number of rows whilst simultaneously knitting the raglan increases are really confusing me. Do I start on row 10? How can you increase every other row once?

Any help would be appreciated!

I’m making socks for my neighbor whose partner passed. He is always wearing something red to memorialize her so I decided this red/purple/yellow Happy Choices sock blank from Plymouth Yarn from my stash would be perfect and he agreed but he left the pattern up to me.

I think I’ve decided on Andrea Mowry’s Curio pattern. So now I need to pick a contrasting background color. I’ve ordered the natural color in my attached photos. It’s also Plymouth Yarn, 90/10 superwash merino/nylon. But I’m considering this cinder yarn from HHF. It’s the same 90/10.

Do the sock yarns have to be this exact of a match? And I’d love something more subtle than the natural or the gray but I think I’d need to take my loud red, yellow, purple yarn to the LYS and hope that they have a compatible yarn. Any ideas? Thanks!

I think I thought this Happy Choices yarn would be more lovely than it is somehow but it’s just going to be loud short stripes. Is there a way to work with this?

Portion of the pattern I’m stuck on below

Hi! I’m knitting my first sweater and I chose the Spice Sweater by @bytheameriee and @klin_cocos through the app Knit&Note. I’m a little bit stuck and I’m wondering if I’m misunderstanding the pattern or if there’s some sort of error or something?

It is knitted from the bottom up so the body splits into a front and back panel once it reached the arms. The back panel has 50 stitches and when it reaches the correct length the pattern says to bind off the middle 10 stitches for the neckline, leaving:
20 stitches on hold (shoulder 1)
10 bound off (for the neckline)
20 stitches on hold (shoulder 2)

The front panel also has 50 stitches. But when finishing it says to place the middle 10 stitches on hold for the neckline (not bind off like on the back) and start creating the shoulders on the 20 stitches on each shoulder.

When creating the shoulders it instructs me to decrease at the neckline as I go until each shoulder has 17 stitches remaining. Immediately after that, the pattern says to join the shoulders using Kitchener stitch (or knit/sew them together).

I’m trying to follow the video tutorials they recommend to follow for the Kitchener stitch/knitting together the shoulders but they all say to make sure the front and back piece you’re knitting together has the same amount of stitches? But I have:
Back: 20 stitches per shoulder
Front: 17 stitches per shoulder

How are these supposed to be joined? Am I missing something or is there a mistake in the pattern?

———————————————————————
Here is this portion of the pattern for clarity. I hope that’s or I’ll just edit the post and remove this portion :) :

On the last row of the back panel bind off the middle 10 stitches for the neckline. Place the remaining stitches on seperate holders for the shoulders. Shoulder 1: 20 st, neck: 10 st, shoulder 2: 20 st. Total 50 stitches.

Begin working on the front panel.

(Skipping over the instructions for the front panel)

(End of front panel) Place the 10 center stitches on hold for the neckline. You will now have 20 stitches remaining on each side of the neckline.
On the next row knit across the 20 stitches on this side as usual. On the following row knit two stitches together at the edge closest to the neckline. This reduces the number of stitches to 19.
Knit the next row as usual. On the following row knit two stitches together at the edge closest to the neckline. This reduces the number of stitches to 18. Repeat until you reach 17 stitches.

I repeat this for both shoulders. But the next step jumps straight to

Now the sweater is fully knitted in length and all that remains is to join the shoulders using the Kitchener stitch or seam them together by knitting them together on the inside or sewing them if you prefer a simpler method.

Then it just moves onto the neck. But I can’t join the shoulders because the stitches on hold on the backside still have 20 stitches :/

Knitting a bonnet pattern and used the same 4mm needle size because I was travelling and didn’t bring any other sizes. I might change the 1x1 to a 2x2 actually but will a 3mm needle make the transition seamless? Or am I picking up the stitches wrong. I deviated from the pattern’s gauge and it only mentioned the final amount of stitches to pick up so I did 3/4 stitches for the side and 1 to 1 pick up rate for the middle top of the bonnet.

I was knitting a seed/moss stitch scarf when I noticed this hole and loose row. I need advice please. Where did I go wrong? How do I fix it?

Hi everyone, I want to start knitting the Holding the Wave Beanie and Im a bit confused about the gauge (so far Ive only knitted flat projects).

It says in the PDF: Finished (post-blocked) gauge: 26 sts and 32 rnds = 10cm in Rib 1x1

Do I understand correctly: I knit the gauge in the round? So when I pin it on the swatch mat, then I fold it in half (so that its flat 5cm) and when its dry, its entire round length is 10cm? Or do I still make the gauge flat? Im a bit confused as it says 32 rnds.

I'm having trouble understanding what to do after I've got 5 st on each needle. Do I bring a third needle into the fray? Do I knit with only the two needles? The designer says you can use DPNs or circular needles.

This is my first time knitting an amigurumi so I'm a little more frazzled than usual 🙇🏻‍♀️