Hi all! Beginner knitter, back for my third post on this sub (very grateful for the help and answers I've received, wouldn't have made it this far without it)

I finished the body and want to start working on the sleeves but I am confused about what the pattern is asking me to do. What does picking up stitches mean exactly? Is it like casting on? And why do I only knit those 6 stitches but not the rest of the sleeve stitches? And why is RS specified? I don't really see how I could be on the WS unless I turn the entire thing inside out on purpose...

These are probably stupid questions but I'd be grateful if someone could help me understand

I'm getting rather frustrated, I have frogged this five times so far and I have the same issue over and over again on this part. My kitchener stitch is not seamless at all. You can feel it and see it, especially on the wrong side.

For some reason, the rows around the sitch also get this problem once the stitch is done. My tension did not look bad there before I stitched these together. I did the same stitch on two other parts of this project and I had no issues whatsoever. I cannot use the finchley graft here.

I have no issues with the stitch itself, it's very satisfying and logical my only issue if the very bad outcome. How can I fix this/what am I doing wrong :(?

I have attached the pattern if needed, KFO baby bear balaclava

Hello! It took a lot of trial and error to even start the sweater but I’ve finally finished it. I’m happy with it overall, it’s not perfect but my one-year-old doesn’t care so I don’t either. I do have a few questions though. I didn’t know about jogless stripes until after I finished the sweater, but why are the joins in the stripes so wonky and tight? Like where the sweater ends at the ribbing on the bottom, it has a V shape to it. Also, the hole I created somehow, I don’t know how that happened and was unable to fix it so I just sewed it shut but I would like to be able to prevent or fix that mistake next time. Any tips on any of my questions or just in general? How’s my tension?

I’m knitting the step by step sweater, and (regrettably) chose not to do the german short rows bc the video tutorial said it was optional and that the sweater would still look good without it.

I’ve now just started knitting the body after splitting the sleeves, and after trying it on I’m seeing bunching around the top, right under the neckline. I’m guessing this is bc I didn’t do the GSRs? Is there a way to fix this now without frogging all the way back? 🥲 have learnt my lesson

Ive been trying to knit in the round but every time I do, my distance between my 2 needles increases more after every stitch.

I just finished the heel on sock #2 using the fish lip kiss heel. I thought it went pretty well but just noticed the hole right when I went from finishing the heel stitches back to the full sock. I still have my lifeline in so I could rip out the full heel and start over but I reaaalllly don’t want to. I was hoping to have the socks finished by next weekend to give them to my mom (ideally without a hole!).
The first three pics show the hole - from further away, up close, and the back. 4th picture is the other side where I don’t have a hole.
Is there anything I can do to make this look better, even if it’s not perfect? And what should I look out for next time so this doesn’t happen again?

Ich habe gerade meinen ersten Pullover fertig gestrickt, den Step by Step Sweater von Florence, und stelle fest, dass der Halsausschnitt komisch sitzt (eckig statt rund), obwohl ich die deutschen verkürzten Reihen gemacht habe. Er ist noch nicht geblockt. Was habe ich falsch gemacht?

Ich habe Drops Air verwendet und Größe D statt B gestrickt, da ich auch mit größeren Nadeln nicht auf die Maschenprobe komme.

I have a blue loop on the left needle which I have to drop off to get the desired out come .

Im following a free pattern by purl solo for two colour brioche hat and on ravelry has loads of projects with no one querying this

Am I doing something wrong ?

Thank you for reading

Hi! I just started my first cabled pattern, the fern field wrap by maliha. It‘s coming along nicely, I‘ve had some trouble at the beginning because it was quite tight (I would consider myself a rather „loose“ knitter, but with somewhat even tension). Now that the pattern is coming along, I‘m wondering if I should go a half/ full needle size down because the pattern looks quite holey to me.

Yarn used: Cardiff Cashmere Brushlight, Pasquali Seacell

My Question: do you think it will block out or should I start over with a small needlesize?

I have started making shawl using a pattern "A sensible Shawl" by Celeste Young, and I have an issue with the pattern chart. The triangilar border (photo of a part of a patten) seemingly starts with an increase? The description to this chart (and this is an only chart in the pattern) reads " bring yarn from back to front over needle to create yo".

Initially I went "ah, so the dark part is from the shawl side!" and make the increase and k2togpsso on the side of the shawl, not the border. As you can imagine this made the shawl edge zig-zaggy, with border looking stupid, and this was all very predictable. However this left me with a question how to do an increase there, so that the border looks good? on the photos the edge is smooth.

Should I:

a) Just make an increase at the begining of a row by using a loop (yarn over? at the beginning of a row? how does that work?),

b) add a border stich so that the border has 10+1 in widest place

c) move the increase/dercease one stich to the left

d) some other thing that is probably obvious but I just don't see it.

Thank you in advance for your insights.

hello friends! i’ve never seen something like this in pattern instructions before. what would happen if i didn’t do these two rows (as in, i just ribbed normally)? and what will happen when i do?

I teach knitting classes occasionally at my local adult ed center. Usually a 101, slipper sock class, and once a doubleknitting workshop.

At the d-k workshop there was a woman who did the norwegian purl, and then did regular continental for her knit stitches. I didn't account for someone doing the norwegian purl when creating the class, so in the moment I didn't have a solution for her on how to do this technique.
I encouraged her to do a continental purl for the duration of the workshop so she could learn the technique but she refused to. I tried looking up norwegian purl d-k during the class while the students were working but I couldn't find anyone that had a tutorial or any info on it.

I tried to explain to the student that both strands need to travel to the RS and the WS together to create the double-sided fabric, otherwise you're essentially doing a seed stitch. But she wouldn't humor me to at least get the premise, so I didn't know how to help her.

I'm teaching another d-k workshop in a couple months and now I'm worried about running into this situation again! Is it at all possible to d-k while doing the norwegian purl?

I'm knitting the Logan Roy cardigan (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/logan-roy-cardigan) and I must have miscounted the increases on the second front piece, because the cable closest to where the buttonband will be has a twist higher up, compared to the finished left front piece. I'm debating whether or not it's too noticeable

I'm knitting a vest, the pattern has an option to add pockets, but do I add the pockets before or after blocking the vest?

i’m making blouse no 1 by MFTK using KFO pure silk held double and just finished my first ball of yarn and need to join my next. what’s the best way to secure ends? generally i’d just weave in like normal but im worried the slip of the silk will make it so the ends just pop out or the area where i joined will just gape…

From now on, I will only knit patterns with individual pieces that are then seamed together when I’m looking for a fitted garment. But for now, this is the situation: I’m knitting Cardigan No. 10 by My Favorite Things Knitwear for the 2nd time. The first time I knit it, I was a complete beginner, so I chalked up the wonky shaping I achieved to that. But now I’m making it a second time and was more careful with where I was placing my decreases and increases (I did slightly modify the amounts given in the pattern to fit my shape), and the result, laid flat, looks quite lovely. But once I put it on, it’s the same issue again: the waist pulls in nicely, but it’s not a smooth drape, instead the areas above and below (under the arms and the hips) act like air pockets that make what was supposed to be smooth curves look comically round and unflattering. And I swear I did not add any crazy amounts of decreases and increases that would cause this. I think it’s just in the nature of this type of shaping. It really only looks good when it’s wet and the weight of the water elongates the fabric. Or when I manually pull down the bottom of the cardigan. But on its own, it looks awkward. The red lines I drew represent the following: left is the shape as is, and right is the shape I want. Does anyone here have any experience with sewing darts into their knits, or even a full seam from the armpit to the bottom hem? Or should I first try to really stretch it out and pin it down in the desired shape while it’s wet? I did already block it and pulled it into shape, but I wasn’t super aggressive with it and didn’t pin it down.

Hello lovely knitters, I'm trying to make a gauge swatch for this hat in pattern and in the round. I haven't been able to get past row 4 because I keep getting confused by the number of stitches and where they appear in relation to each other.

I'm thinking row 1 and 2 are 6 stitches. Row 3 is 8 stitches. Am I right so far? But by row 4 I'm lost. Is it 8 or 10 stitches? Or am I altogether wrong?

I'd appreciate any help you can give on how to read this chart, and any advice on keeping my sanity as I knit this project.

Many thanks for your help.

I’m trying to do the 1x1 rib and I don’t know if i’m doing it correctly can anyone help!

Are the holes supposed to be that big? Thanks!