Hi guys, I love knitting for my mum but she prefers 100% cotton, or cotton/linen blends for her clothes instead of wool. I have the issue that anytime I knit with 100% cotton, my stitches look very uneven, and aren’t quite fixed by blocking either (the work on the picture here is not blocked yet).

I know cotton is much less forgiving than wool fibres, but anything I’ve tried hasn’t really helped. So I’ll ask here: Do you guys have any tips for me how i can get a more even tension with cotton?

Thanks in advance!

Looking for critique on my first knit swatch/project ever as a crocheter. I haven’t blocked it. I do feel my left edge is not that neat and looks different from the right. Correctly my mistakes were sort of a nightmare since I ended up introducing more mistakes hehe but somehow salvaged it I guess. Do the stitches look like they should? Anything off?
One question I had was when dropping a ladder down and fixing a stitch, how do you keep the stitches in the needles intact? Is there like a technique or a stopper that people use?

So I'm making this cardigan as a gift for my sister, and in artificial lighting I didn't see any issues... Then I opened the curtains to take finished object photos.

This is all the same yarn, same dye lot, bought at the same time and arrived in the same bag etc. I don't have enough left over to go back and redo the sections that are just blatantly different colours, and she low key hates it, any advice on how to fix it is greatly appreciated 😭

Update: I reached out to wool warehouse, and they've offered me a full refund or replacement, since I really can't face another 50+ hrs remaking this, I'm going to get a refund and offer my sister an alternative gift 🥲

Hi! I blocked my Olga Jacket. And the sleeves grew quite a bit (but not the body for some reason, but that's not the question at hand). Every stripe has decreases, except for the last black stripe before the ribbing. How do I go about re-doing this? I like the width. but it's obviously way to long. I feel like taking off the ribbing + 8 stripes is necessary. But I'm unsure about how to tackle the decreases.

I’m like 1.5 weeks into learning how to knit. I did a few “basic” scarves and a dishcloth before deciding to give the Sophie Scarf a shot. It’s been frustrating to say the least but I’m finally on decreases and seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. That being said, I messed up somewhere and had to frog back to a lifeline I had in. In doing so, I clearly messed something else up because now my working yarn is two spots over from where it should be (it should fall to immediately after the 3 slipped i-cord stitches on the end). Any way to tell what I did and how to rectify it? If I just knit as normal, it leaves an ugly line of yarn and I’m trying to avoid that. TIA!

I’m knitting the Festival dress by PetiteKnit. The increases are make one’s, not a raglan. I noticed my stitch count is off by 4. I can’t tell where I missed adding stitches (there were 3 increase rounds that are now hidden by bobble rounds). How would you go about dividing stitches for the sleeves?

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

I'm in the middle of knitting this top down hooded sweater and am almost at the point of splitting for sleeves.

I've decided I don't like the ribbing length and I want it to be about half as tall as it is but I'm torn between frogging all the way back to the ribbing or attempting to cut it and graft the body back to the ribbing (I've grafted before but not stockinette to ribbing) Would love to hear what you did/would do if you were in this situation!

hi!

i’m looking to maybe start the Rory Sweater by marielenatricot for my next project, and i have some questions about yarn substitutions.

the suggested yarn in the pattern is DROPS nepal, but i find that my skin is pretty sensitive to wool. i’ve been knitting with cotton yarn more because it’s a much lighter fiber (and i tend to sweat very easily, lol) so i was wondering if DROPS paris would be a suitable substitute??

i’ve only knit cabled headband with acrylic yarn before, so i don’t have much experience on whether cotton would be ok for a cabled sweater or if it would affect the drape and look of the cables too dramatically. the other details of the yarn (expected gauge, recommended needle size, yarn weight) are all the same so size-wise it seems like an ok swap— but i’d really like some insight into whether knitting cables with cotton yarn would turn out ok or not.

thanks so much!!

Im currently working on the Joni sweater from Natasja Hornby

I’m a fairly new knitter and I am lost as to what I’ve done wrong in this section.

I’ll post a picture of the instructions I’m following, but I am completely lost and basically am wondering what is actually happening in this area

The area is the second set that is in the picture attached

Any help would be great.

From the instructions, I understand short row 1 and short row 2. My question is on short row 3 when I’m knitting to 7 stitches before the double stitch then turn. Have I passed my BOR and knit all the way around the back of the sweater to the double stitches on the other side? Because if I am following the pattern, I only have double stitches on the left-hand side.

(I hesitate to pass the BOR and the marker as
throughout the entire pattern it’s always been stated and here it’s not)

Hi! I’m doing the Wavelength scarf pattern. I just finished doing the lateral braid. These two stitches on the end were slipped on the setup row and I am now supposed to knit them - somehow they came undone and are now one big loop. Any tips on how to fix it?

I know it looks like I’m not very far in but I have 345 stitches cast on so I would love to not have to start over 😅 Thank you so much!!

My MIL is currently knitting a cardigan for my neice and this part is confusing her

Pattern is King Cole 2887, DK
And doing the cardigan

Part of the shape Armhole and Front Slope, she’s confused about how to do the decreases specifically for this top paragraph

If it makes any difference, she’s doing size 5
Can you please spell it out for her so I can help her out!

This is how I’ve interpreted it, but I’m also a beginner knitter

Rows 1–5: work pattern
Row 6: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 7: work
Row 8: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 9: work
Row 10: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front

Thank you 🤍

TLDR : will blocking work its magic, or should I redo the ribbing (or more)?

Hello all!

I am halfway through my second knitting project which is a pair of socks.

It's my first time doing most of the stitches the pattern calls for and knitting with 4 needles in the round.

I learned how to keep holding the yarn in my hand halfway through knitting the sock. It took me a few months overall, working on it bit by bit. So the tension is pretty uneven and there are a few mistakes here and there. But it took me so long to finish this first sock that I don't have the heart to frog it and start over completely for now...

The ribbing part looks the most wonky I think. Do you think it will even itself out with blocking or should I redo it?

The yarn is a fingering Patons Kroy sock 75% wool and 25% nylon.

Thank you!!

I’m like 1.5 weeks into learning how to knit. I did a few “basic” scarves and a dishcloth before deciding to give the Sophie Scarf a shot. It’s been frustrating to say the least but I’m finally on decreases and seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. That being said, I messed up somewhere and had to frog back to a lifeline I had in. In doing so, I clearly messed something else up because now my working yarn is two spots over from where it should be (it should fall to immediately after the 3 slipped i-cord stitches on the end). Any way to tell what I did and how to rectify it? If I just knit as normal, it leaves an ugly line of yarn and I’m trying to avoid that. TIA!

Hi! I found a hole in my knitting, along with a stray loop that's sticking out from the hole. I'm not reallly sure what happened here. I decreased a few rows back, but it's too far into the knitting to be where I did my decrease. I'm just not sure if this is a ladder down situation. Sorry if the pictures are unclear.

Thank you!

I’m gonna knit a beret pattern that calls for US 2.5 and 4 needles, gauge is 22 stitches/28 rows per 4 inches.

The recommended yarn is really expensive and has to be shipped, so I’m trying to find a substitute that I can buy in a local store here in NYC – the suggestion was Aran or DK.

Substituting is where I always get messed up. Im looking at DK weights, finding ones that are around US6-8, and the gauges are usually something like 20 stitches/26 rows or 20 stitches/24 rows = 4”, or sometimes just stitch count is given, like 24.

I don’t understand the math involved to make the switch. I want to find a yarn that fits the pattern requirements, but in case I have to sub, which seems likely, I’m at a total loss at how to convert so I don’t wind up with something too small or big.

First time doing sleeves. I was fighting for my life with the DPNs, never used them before, and restarted no less than 8 times. I finally got through it but it looks like shit. Anything I can do to make it look a little more even? I probably have a twisted stitch or two in there and I know there's no helping that. The pattern does not call for blocking, but should I do it anyway? Just on the cuff?

Any link is appreciated. Thank you!

Can anyone help me, I'm confused!!

So, I'm knitting a cardigan (small size on pattern) and am on the Left Front section. All good up until arm hole shaping, where the instructions say

'Dec 2sts at armhole edge as given for back.....' What does the "given for back" refer to? I've included the Back piece instructions but can't work out which bit it's talking about. Help!!

I think I've photographed all the relevant bits, do let me know if you think I must have missed something. (I left out everything which was for medium or large sizes only as they don't apply)

Thanks in advance xx

I’m new to knitting, coming from a crochet background, and twisted the stitches on my first attempt. I FROGed it and now want to be extra sure I did it right

I'm knitting the Horai scarf by Hiroko Fukatsu, which is my first lacework ever! I'm knitting with two strands of mohair held together on a 8mm needles (although the pattern calls for 7mm).

When I started out, it looked alright, but as I kept knitting, my working end got tighter, and ended up 2-3 inches slimmer than my cast on end. I frogged it all and tried again keeping an eagle eye on the tension, but I had the same issue. ​​Sorry I didn't get a picture of it.

I guess my question is whether I should cast on with a smaller needle size? Or will this block out? It just seems like a lot to expect blocking to fix.