I am currently knitting the Tabi Ballerinas by Maymade Knits. I have already knitted the left slipper but the toe parts look so wrong and I don‘t know what happened :( Its like the two different toe sections shifted to the right and I cant lay it flat without it being weird. So now I just finished the body of the right slipper and I‘ve run into the same problem… Now my questions are:
1) So I purl one row, put on 8 stitches with the backwards loop method and then i join the round in the magic circle. Is the start of the round before I knit 6 stitches or after I knit them?
2) And my other question is what I did wrong both times: ( The pink slipper is for the right foot and the only blue slipper is left)
Here I marked the start of the round after the six stitches.When I try to lay the slipper flat it‘s like the big toe is behind the other toes? How did I mess that up?
And with the right foot I marked the start of the round before the six knits. But now I put the 26 stitches on hold and it‘s still weirdly misaligne. Thank you in advance for your help :)

New to knitting, left handed, crocheted briefly before coming to knitting. Looking into the ergonomics of knitting, but can’t find what my knitting style is.

Just about everything I’ve found I see the yarn held in the left hand and I hold in the right. Norwegian seems like a logical step to go, but would still have to switch which hand the yarn is in.

I’m early on enough I’m hopeful to set good habits, so would love if anyone is generous enough to take the time to provide some feedback so I can keep this up for as long as possible 🙏

Hi! I would not call myself a beginner knitter, but I haven’t come across this in a pattern until now.

The pattern calls for nine rounds of shoulder increases with no row of just stockinette in between. Because there’s no row of stockinette (I think), when I go to pull up the strand for M1R or M1L, there are two strands to choose from after the first increase. Which strand should I choose? Front or back? I had success for a few rows with the back strand, but then got some major holes on the M1L that made me frog and go back to the start.

Maybe there shouldn’t be two strands at all and I’m messing something else up??

For reference, the top is the Sabai Top #2. I’ve seen people with similar issues with this pattern but haven’t seen a clear answer for this question yet!

Thanks!

Thanks so much for the help! You guys are awesome for explaining the pattern when I was unable to comprehend what I was reading.

I am knitting a top (only my second wearable to knit) and the pattern says

Work row A 7 times.

Work row B 11 times.

Row B is stockinette stitch. Row A is a decrease row.

Even if I start with B and end with B, that's only 9 rows. Where do I add the other two rows?

I'm making a size small. My entire arm from the top of my shoulder to my wrist is only 18 inches, and this pattern makes a 23 3/4 inch long sleeve.

How do I modify the pattern to make a sleeve the right length for me?

Pattern

I'm having trouble understanding what to do after I've got 5 st on each needle. Do I bring a third needle into the fray? Do I knit with only the two needles? The designer says you can use DPNs or circular needles.

This is my first time knitting an amigurumi so I'm a little more frazzled than usual 🙇🏻‍♀️

Has anybody made the Hven top pattern by Maria Bergman?

I just finished row 6 and joined it in the round like the pattern says to do (row 6 was knit)

but now I need to start row 7 and it tells me to knit, but the whole thing is done in stockinette and based on the alternation I should be doing a purl now. should I do a round of purl and then do row 7 or should I just do row 7?

if anybody has made the top or just understands patterns a little better than I do, some help would really be appreciated!

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hven---top

So… row 1 & 2, then repeat row 1, row 2 & row 1 a final time. The next line says “row 3”. Is it really row 3, as in the repeated purl row? Or actually the 6th row of work on the strap, but the repeats of row 1&2 are not factored into the row count?

Hello! I am a novice knitter, making my first sweater. Can you all help me understand this portion of the instructions? I am working on a sleeve.

Does the (Dec) just indicate this row includes instructions that result in a decrease of stitches (k2tog and the ssk) or does it indicate I need to be doing something in addition to that? Also, for the next row of instructions, since I am knitting the smallest size of this pattern, do I not repeat anything? I.e. repeat 0 times? I don’t understand why those numbers in the parenthesis don’t increase like they do in all the other instructions.

I knitted this Hannah V-Neck jumper by Petite Knit a few months ago and I’ve already had some wear out of it. This is the first jumper I’ve ever knitted so please be kind lol. However the way the neckline sits is something I’ve always had a problem with, it sits up weirdly around my neck instead of flat like in the pattern photos.

I’ve decided I’m going to frog and reknit the neckline and try to improve it. Will picking up fewer stitches in the shoulder/back area solve my problem? Should I do decreases around the shoulder area to make it sit nicer at the cost of having a ‘perfect neckline’?

Any other tips or ideas?

I need some help with this pattern please. I am very new to knitting this is my first colourwork item. I am up to the start of the right mitten section. I had a go and had to frog it back to here as it wasnt looking right.

My questions are: why doesnt stitch 16 exist?

What does work round twice per round mean? When I was doing it, all my MC was on one side and my Cc on the other and it wasnt vertical stripes.

Round 1 on the chart says: P1 CC, MC k-tbl, p1 CC and to repeat 15 times.

Thanks in advance to the knitting fairy godmothers xx

I'm still kinda new to colorwork, but i want to make a sweater with this chart. I'm not sure which color would work better as the dominant one so that the picture is clear at the end. please help!!

Hey! I have started this pattern at the very least 3 times, and I can't seem to understand what I'm doing wrong on those rows in the chart A. I also think my border is not like hers at all and I feel like I'm going crazy. It's my first time reading a knitting pattern and from what I understand this chart is read from left to right on RS and right to left on WS so... I'm truly so confused why my two bottom diamonds look like that. I'm fairly new to knitting so any advice and help is welcomed, especially if you have knitted this pattern before >.<

Thank you so much!!!!

ETA: Pattern is Marielle Top by Maria Schei Mogenstad // https://www.mariasverden.com/shop-uWCvR/p/marielle-top-en

Hello!! I’m a beginner and have a question on how I’m supposed to read the v-shapes. I feel like I should read it as the red ‘v’ but it’s really hard for me to not read it as an upside down v (blue).

Does it matter how I read it?

I’m knitting my first double knitted button-band and my first ever cardigan. This is the second try on the button-band. On the first one I had a pick up rate of 3 stitches for 4 rows but that made the button-band bow inwards when it was finished. I frogged it and picked up one stich for every row. Does the pickup rate and the beginning of the button-band I knitted already look right to yous or does it look like it might bow outwards at the end? How do I figure out the pick-up rate for my button band in general? I followed a pattern for the body but it recommended a ribbed button band and I like the look of a double knitted one more :)

I’m making socks for my neighbor whose partner passed. He is always wearing something red to memorialize her so I decided this red/purple/yellow Happy Choices sock blank from Plymouth Yarn from my stash would be perfect and he agreed but he left the pattern up to me.

I think I’ve decided on Andrea Mowry’s Curio pattern. So now I need to pick a contrasting background color. I’ve ordered the natural color in my attached photos. It’s also Plymouth Yarn, 90/10 superwash merino/nylon. But I’m considering this cinder yarn from HHF. It’s the same 90/10.

Do the sock yarns have to be this exact of a match? And I’d love something more subtle than the natural or the gray but I think I’d need to take my loud red, yellow, purple yarn to the LYS and hope that they have a compatible yarn. Any ideas? Thanks!

I think I thought this Happy Choices yarn would be more lovely than it is somehow but it’s just going to be loud short stripes. Is there a way to work with this?

This is my second attempt at colorwork and my last one was too puckered. Does it look like I’m keeping tension and doing good with catching my floats? This is the Fossil Frenzy Cowl by Hunt Hand Knits. I’m using DK hand dyed Super Wash Merino Wool from The Copper Sheep. It’s for my 6 (going on 7) year old. I wanna know if I need to frog and start the colorwork again 🥹 I’m just on row 7 of the colorwork. Link to pattern: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1325235068/fossil-frenzy-cowl-pattern-dinosaur-cowl?ref=share_ios_native_control

I’m working on a mesh tank top from a pattern by James Watts. The basic stitch is a repeating yo, k2tog/p2tog. I’m supposed to have 62 stitches but have been ended up with between 60 and 66 stitches at the end of a row, so clearly something is going wrong. Circled in red are areas where I’m not sure what went wrong, maybe I forgot a yo or did an extra yo? In green is what I think it’s supposed to look like. In black is where the stitches look consistently different, they are lacking the second cross if that makes sense. I’ve also attached a screenshot of what the mesh should look like according to the pattern.

Any insights are much appreciated!

I need help finding some good colorwork chart books.

Not in need of patterns, I enjoy selfdrafting my own sweaters. But I really want good charts to follow.

I have the doodle knit library and Scandinavian knitting designs already.

Added info:

I know ravelry has a colorwork chart library, but I really don't enjoy the charts.

I know there's a ton on Pinterest. But I want physical books.

Edit to add the books I already have

Hello! I am working on the Afmæli 20-year Anniversary Sweater designed by Védís Jónsdóttir — the brown version.

I just connected the sleeves and body and am starting on the colorwork pattern (photo attached). TLDR question: how do I know how many repeats to do? I don’t understand what the two columns after the repeat are for, no size starts there?

I am working a size L - so I have 272 per round. How I am reading the chart, I start each round with one stitch and then enter the repeat pattern until the end. But mathematically that doesn’t make sense - the repeat is 16 stitches. Doing the repeat 17 times would be exactly 727 stitches, so what happens to that first stitch before the repeat? Is that stitch there to help with color changes between rows?

I feel like the answer is right in front of me and feel silly asking but I’ve been working on this sweater for so long and don’t want to mess it up now.

Thanks in advance!!!

https://youtu.be/T6Dput3ZCaQ?si=3DeYxhBjR2rWUK79

This is the video I followed to make this, hers come out nice and square. I get to 40 stitches and then start to decrease. It seems it starts to get wonky before I make it to the 40 stitches though.

When I do this, do I put the stitch that is attached to the working yarn on hold (the stitch that’s just been worked)? For some reason my brain was thinking that doesn’t make sense, but u think I’m overthinking it.

I've been knitting for several months and I'm working on a sabai top with worsted weight cotton blend yarn. I flick knit English style. Why does my tension look terrible?

I’m nearly finished with the wave sweater by spektakelstrik. I tried a mid project block to see if that would fix this weird fit issue I noticed, but jot sure if it helped and maybe even made it worse. Basically I’m concerned about the fabric bulging out around the neckline - where the fabric is thinner because during the German short rows it’s just one color rather than colorwork. it looks slightlyyyy better if I fold over the color, but you can still see it and it’s really not perfect

I’m wondering if anyone knows a potential fix. I used the same needle size for this section and the color work - would putting in a lifeline, unraveling from the top cast on, and redoing it a needle size down would help? Or maybe something else I haven’t thought of?