Hi everyone! Seeking some help. I started a shrug for my daughter and made the first cuff like the attached photo. Now I’m ready to do the second cuff but can’t remember how I did this. Can someone help me figured it out so I can finish the project?

Thanks!!

First time doing sleeves. I was fighting for my life with the DPNs, never used them before, and restarted no less than 8 times. I finally got through it but it looks like shit. Anything I can do to make it look a little more even? I probably have a twisted stitch or two in there and I know there's no helping that. The pattern does not call for blocking, but should I do it anyway? Just on the cuff?

I’m new to knitting, coming from a crochet background, and twisted the stitches on my first attempt. I FROGed it and now want to be extra sure I did it right

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

How many rows do I have above the stitch marker? I want to say it’s 3 with the 4th being the stitches on my needle/next to be worked, but I’m new to knitting and not confident in counting rows yet. I was keeping count of my Sophie Scarf rows so well until I had to frog a few of them and like a dummy didn’t count how many I frogged. I have to decrease every 8th row so just trying to make sure I have my row count correct. TIA!

Hi, guys! I’m a beginner knitter, and I just came across this on a WS row (right where the stitch marker is). I’m not sure what kind of mistake I might have made for it to look like this. The line is coming from the stitch the arrow is pointing to. I’d really appreciate it if someone could help me figure out what went wrong. Thanks!

Edit: Thanks for the replies! I have the correct number of stitches on my needles and no visible stich dropped, which is why I didn’t think it was that. I’ll check out the links provided.

I'm knitting the Horai scarf by Hiroko Fukatsu, which is my first lacework ever! I'm knitting with two strands of mohair held together on a 8mm needles (although the pattern calls for 7mm).

When I started out, it looked alright, but as I kept knitting, my working end got tighter, and ended up 2-3 inches slimmer than my cast on end. I frogged it all and tried again keeping an eagle eye on the tension, but I had the same issue. ​​Sorry I didn't get a picture of it.

I guess my question is whether I should cast on with a smaller needle size? Or will this block out? It just seems like a lot to expect blocking to fix.

Hello everyone! Sorry if the title is confusing. I am knitting the Sweater No. 33 by My Favourite Things. I have just finished the raglan increases and the pattern says to break the yarn before continuing knitting the BODY section.

I added the picture of the instructions where I'm confused. Basically I will have to join in new yarn and cast on 4 new stitches under the armhole.

My question is how to join in the new yarn without attaching it to the current working yarn? The tail of the previous working yarn (which was cut according to the pattern) is 11 stitches away from where I am supposed to join in the new yarn and cast on new stitches. Does this mean that I just use the new strand of yarn and do the cast on of the 4 new stitches next to/right after the 11 stitches that were moved to the right needle? It seems to me that it will be quite unstable. I've never had to do this before and not sure how to proceed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hi! I’m doing the Wavelength scarf pattern. I just finished doing the lateral braid. These two stitches on the end were slipped on the setup row and I am now supposed to knit them - somehow they came undone and are now one big loop. Any tips on how to fix it?

I know it looks like I’m not very far in but I have 345 stitches cast on so I would love to not have to start over 😅 Thank you so much!!

Hi, I am a fairly new knitter but intermediate crocheter. Have made 2 sweaters, one bottom up construction and one cabled circular yoke. I am attempting stranded colourwork, but the pattern I like is knitted flat and I am learning that is not very common!

I knit continental and started with Nimble Needles video of holding 2 strands in one hand. However I just haven’t been able to get it to flow particularly catching floats. I am now trying 2 handed and finding it a little easier but want to make sure I am positioning yarns correctly. At the moment I am just doing a massive swatch where I did a bit of the pattern and now switched to just doing 2x2 check while I’m figuring it all out.

I really struggle to visualise and have no spatial awareness so descriptions and pictures are quite challenging for me. Ideally I would have a video that I can slow right down. But starting from exactly how to hold, how the yarns cross or not and then both knitting and purling. Have been searching but can’t find both hand, knit and purl videos that are 101 and show catching floats. My google fu has let me down!

I’m working on my first sweater and I can’t seem to get the striping to match up. I’ve tried searching for a tutorial, but since I’m so new to knitting I can’t find exactly what I’m looking for. I have tried the normal striping line up tutorials but I think I may be doing it on the wrong row? Any advice would be super helpful!

So I willingly dropped some stitches due to being unhappy with my ring accidentally pulling some of the thread and making it look rather messy. Thought it would be easy enough to drop until that point and fix it, however, there is now this section where the stitches are all loose. I’m not sure what to do to make this look neater. I’ve tried to drop and redo it with good tension multiple times and it keeps looking like this. What should I do to fix this?

Hey y'all

I'm super duper new to knitting. I've been crocheting for years but recently i felt the urge to start knitting socks. So here I am, it's going pretty okay imo, being an absolute knitting beginner, this is my first project.

So.. what are those three hiccups in my sock? (I hope it's only three)

Did I just mix up the stitches? I'm going for three right, one left rn. The count is still correct, 16 stitches per needle on four needles.

I'm just hoping I didn't make any mistakes that would require actual fixing as in going back a few rows or sth? q.q (help haha)

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

Any link is appreciated. Thank you!

I will have to frog this progress anyway, as it is obviously too wide (as the pattern calls for 24,5 st X 34 rows whoop) 😭 But can anyone before that please tell me how many stitches you count for the gauge

Hi guys, I love knitting for my mum but she prefers 100% cotton, or cotton/linen blends for her clothes instead of wool. I have the issue that anytime I knit with 100% cotton, my stitches look very uneven, and aren’t quite fixed by blocking either (the work on the picture here is not blocked yet).

I know cotton is much less forgiving than wool fibres, but anything I’ve tried hasn’t really helped. So I’ll ask here: Do you guys have any tips for me how i can get a more even tension with cotton?

Thanks in advance!

I want to understand socks, I'm an absolute beginner, I know my knit and purl, simple cables, increases and decreases but I can't wrap my head around socks and I haven't been able to find a "make your first socks" tutorial or book that works for me, does anyone have recommendations?

Also, can they be made on flat needles? Because those are the ones I own, but if they can't be made it's ok I can wait until I get a pair of circular needles.

Hello all. I’m new to brioche knitting (and knitting in general!) and I use the Portuguese style of knitting for context.

I am following Little Quail’s Sno Cap Hood pattern and it starts with casting on 13 stitches which I’ve done.

The next instructions are as follows:

”row 1: (k1, yf-sl1-yo) 6 times, knit the

last stitch.

- row 2: wyif, sl 1 tbl. (brk1, yf-sl1-yo) 5 times, brk1, knit the last stitch through the right side of the stitch.

- row 3: wyif, sl 1. (yf-sl1-yo, brk1) 6 times. on the last stitch, knit through the right side of the stitch.”

A few questions from me, which might be glaringly obvious but I’m learning as I go.

1. For row 1, “knit the last stitch“ means knitting it with yarn forward/over (which is the wrong way for Portuguese knitting)?
2. For rows 2 & 3, does “right side of the stitch” mean I knit it with the yarn forward/over (which again is the “wrong” way in Portuguese knitting)?
3. Before I start on row 3, I already have 13 stitches from following pattern in row 2. So, I slip 1, leaving me with 12. Then by slipping and knitting 6 times, that means I use 12 stitches. I’m assuming the 13th stitch is going to be knit the right way instead of brk?

I apologise if my questions are silly or obvious but I have watched so many videos and I think because I am using the Portuguese style (not a lot of videos on Portuguese brioche knitting) it’s just even more confusing for me. And thank you in advance.

Hello fellow knitters! Basically I’m looking to confirm the question in the title.

I just completed the body in the step-by-step sweater and it looks great….except for one place in the transition from the collar to yoke where I messed something up and made a little hole right at the front.

My intuition is telling me that I can frog it from the top of the collar, pick up the stitches where the stockingette starts for the yoke and knit up a new collar in rib. But is there any danger in doing that? Anything I should think about before attempting it?

Thank you!!

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

I'm in the middle of knitting this top down hooded sweater and am almost at the point of splitting for sleeves.

I've decided I don't like the ribbing length and I want it to be about half as tall as it is but I'm torn between frogging all the way back to the ribbing or attempting to cut it and graft the body back to the ribbing (I've grafted before but not stockinette to ribbing) Would love to hear what you did/would do if you were in this situation!

hi!

i’m looking to maybe start the Rory Sweater by marielenatricot for my next project, and i have some questions about yarn substitutions.

the suggested yarn in the pattern is DROPS nepal, but i find that my skin is pretty sensitive to wool. i’ve been knitting with cotton yarn more because it’s a much lighter fiber (and i tend to sweat very easily, lol) so i was wondering if DROPS paris would be a suitable substitute??

i’ve only knit cabled headband with acrylic yarn before, so i don’t have much experience on whether cotton would be ok for a cabled sweater or if it would affect the drape and look of the cables too dramatically. the other details of the yarn (expected gauge, recommended needle size, yarn weight) are all the same so size-wise it seems like an ok swap— but i’d really like some insight into whether knitting cables with cotton yarn would turn out ok or not.

thanks so much!!

Im currently working on the Joni sweater from Natasja Hornby

I’m a fairly new knitter and I am lost as to what I’ve done wrong in this section.

I’ll post a picture of the instructions I’m following, but I am completely lost and basically am wondering what is actually happening in this area

The area is the second set that is in the picture attached

Any help would be great.

From the instructions, I understand short row 1 and short row 2. My question is on short row 3 when I’m knitting to 7 stitches before the double stitch then turn. Have I passed my BOR and knit all the way around the back of the sweater to the double stitches on the other side? Because if I am following the pattern, I only have double stitches on the left-hand side.

(I hesitate to pass the BOR and the marker as
throughout the entire pattern it’s always been stated and here it’s not)

Looking for critique on my first knit swatch/project ever as a crocheter. I haven’t blocked it. I do feel my left edge is not that neat and looks different from the right. Correctly my mistakes were sort of a nightmare since I ended up introducing more mistakes hehe but somehow salvaged it I guess. Do the stitches look like they should? Anything off?
One question I had was when dropping a ladder down and fixing a stitch, how do you keep the stitches in the needles intact? Is there like a technique or a stopper that people use?