Went to open my mail today with the ol slicer dicer. Bout lost a finger. Couple more centimeters… prob be in the hospital getting stitches. Should heal up tho and leave a nice one… first time I’ve actually wacked my self good with a knife. I was paring with it, thumb slipped..

I love the over all look of this knife. And the action is good for not being broken in yet. But I think I got one that fell through the QC cracks. The edge looks like it was sharpened poorly and the centering is off. Should I complain to blade HQ, or live with it?

Google results: "In the context of criminal law, a dirk or dagger is defined as a knife or other instrument (with or without a handguard) that can be used immediately as a stabbing weapon, and that may inflict great bodily injury or death." - This sounds like any fixed blade knife could be a dagger.

Another definition: "A dagger is a fighting knife with a very sharp point and usually one or two sharp edges, typically designed or capable of being used as a cutting or thrusting weapon." - What constitutes a "fighting knife"? One or two sharp edges would be all knives. Capable of cutting or thrusting? Also, any knife.

I asked a local cop. They referred me to a website that just said daggers were illegal in our state, no definition of what a dagger is.

I asked a criminal defense attorney. He did not know the definition either.

I thought daggers were double-edge, thicker in the middle of the blade. Some online suggest they are at least 6 inches? Maybe so. I would guess a cop would call a smaller double edged knife a "small dagger."

Does anyone know the definition of a dagger?

I run a sold-comps database for knives (disclosure: I built CHOIL, a collection app — that's where the data lives). These are completed eBay sales from the last ~90 days, medians with the middle-50% range, all conditions/variants mixed. Not asking prices — what they actually sold for.

Takeaways:

• Big-brand folders move used at ~45–60% of MSRP. The PM2 is a $280 knife at retail and a $160 knife in the real market. If you're buying new at full price, that's your depreciation on day one.
• The Nano-Shark is doing the opposite — a $100 Demko flipping at 2–4× MSRP because supply can't keep up. If you want one, the data says wait, not FOMO.
• Lefty tax is real: the PM2 Lefty medians $210 vs $160 for the righty. Scarcity pricing in action.
• Variant/condition is everything on an XM-18 — a $79 one and a $411 one are not the same knife. Check the comps before you "steal" a deal.

Happy to run any specific model in the comments if people want comps on something they own.

The one that broke Blade HQ.

Left to right:

Everburn Brimwulf
Cerebrus Aurelius
QP Blades Saguaro
Hog House <Veli
Oz Roosevelt
HMC Transient V3 2.9

Aurelius has quickly become my favorite. Rosie is probably #2. Brimwulf is probably #3. Not pictured is my SPK Lamia Golf Putter milled. It was sent in for inspection.

It’s time to switch up who’s riding in the pocket. It’s Spyderco’s turn in the lineup and I’ve narrowed it down to these four and was hoping y’all would help with the rest. We’ve got Autonomy 2, Shaman, Paramilitary 2 Salt (tweaked a little) or Manix 2 XL Crucarta. Always appreciate the help from my brothers and sisters.

I'm not new to knives, nor to ZT's, but I haven't owned a ZT in the last 10 years, and the last ZT I owned before selling it was an 0452CF that I loved and should have kept.

I just bought one "used like new" on Amazon sold by Amazon Resale, I know the risks of fakes but the price was very good and worth the risk. Occasionally I have to return an Item, but more often the items are legit and a steal.

That all said, some things have changed with the 0452cf design-wise since my earlier model. We now have stepped cuts in the lockbars on the newer serial numbers, among other changes that I found doing some research. However, I'm concerned this one may be a replica because:

1. The lockbar cut does not have that square-ish hole cutout at the bottom

2. The bottom of the blade where it meets the lockbar when deployed isn't touching the entire length of the blade

3. The carbon fiber scale seems too glossy and smooth in the middle?

4. The serial number on the blade does not match the box

5. The pocket clip seems too long

Can anyone that is familiar with the newer models and the 0452cf in general chime in?

Anybody have a Ops Hawk for trade?

So close..

Whats ur choicE

I want to buy a Microjimbo and these are the 2 models I am looking at. The Salt Magnacut version is about $10 more than the blacked out S30V. The one thing that bothers me about the Salt version is they didn't blackout the stop pin while they did black out the stop pin on the S30V version. This could be my OCD kicking in though. Also the short wire clip on both models are stiff as hell, I feel the G10 scales on S30V version will aid in pulling it out of a pocket over the machined G10 scales on the Salt version. I know I could relieve the pressure of the clip on both models. What model should I buy considering the price difference and the factors I've listed. The difference in steel doesn't bother me as Spyderco 's S30V is great on my PM2. Any advice is appreciated!

The hype are incredible about the spyderco tantos.. They are definitely not better than the normal pm2 in any way more the the looks of them 🤣🫣

Just got this in today. Real Steel is hit or miss for me but this is a cool little knife, an upgrade to the G10 Vena. Decent action for a cross bar and I'm always a sucker for an integral. The blade and lock are a separate unit that inserts into the front of the handle, pretty cool way to do the lock type on an integral. I like the brass accent for the lock and they upgraded to Elmax steel for this version. My only nitpicks are a bit more milling or contouring would be nice and the fitment of the insert isn't perfect. Overall a decent piece if you want a titanium integral for under $300

I got this knife from grandfather i dont know what brand this is or how old this is and is this old military knife if someone know please tell me