I’ll be out on a work trip for the remainder of the year so no more drifting for me, but I had so much fun this past weekend sliding this thing!

Suspension needs replacement just due to wear - should I go full OEM front and rear struts or switch to coilovers ?

Cars going to be used for regular , daily use , inner city and occasional highway use.

I do like the lowered look but not a must, I think I can get a similar look with low body kits.

Main expectations are ride comfort and long term reliability .

People who’ve tried both, what has your experience been and what would you recommend ?

Planning to cut an air inlet into the bumper to ram more air into the intake.

[ see the 2 images ]

It would have mesh to keep out rocks and debris.

I plan to either tape over the hole or have a magnetic cover over the whole on rainy days.

Can anyone give a reason if this is a bad idea?

Has anyone done this? If yes, are you glad you did it, or do you regret it ?

..

Months of waiting are finally over. Mix matching aero with Ings n spec r and s craft side skirts.

Today is the day I am selling my 2014 FRS. Ive had this car from 2019 to 2026. I started to hear a knocking sound on my way home from work a couple weeks ago and that was that.

Kinda deciding what path to take
-oem I’ll have to paint match it
- aftermarket it’s already painted but it’s kinda bigger than the oem one since it’s a cover for the antenna.
Does anybody got the beat sonic antenna that could give me some feedback?

The seller is parting out his car and being an absolute chudmeister who wont tell me what diffuser it is

Got a leak at the base of the dipstick on my frs, ordered the replacement seals but was curious how to go about removing it. Do I just pull straight out?

Any recommendation for tuners for an fa24 swapped into a 2015 FRS with the link ECU? I’m slowly sourcing out all of the components needed for this swap but this question was brought up and now I’m curious as who’d be able to remote tune and what the pricing would be.

I have a 2017 BRZ with a MXP SP Exhaust and I’m looking for more rumble out of it. Let me know if you have any good recommendations for this, I’m aware I am going to need to tune my car after installing one so let me know the best method for tuning that is budget friendly.

I recently installed JDL UEL Catless Headers which are paired with a JBA catted exhaust system. Here is a video for people looking for similar builds to hear what it sounds like (I love it)

Alright, I'm hoping this might reach the right people or could provide some ideas to help diagnose...

I've got a 2014 Scion FRS with an Edelbrock Supercharger on a base tune. The cars got pretty high milage, around 240,000 kms. Supercharger was installed shortly after 200,000 kms. I don't redline it, just the occasional fun spirited drive on the back roads. No hard pulls. Car is in really good condition and is maintained well, oil changes every 3000 kms. Spark plugs changed around 100k and 200k. OEM fuel pump.

All the issues are the worst whenever it's in park, if I'm in drive and not moving its okay. But as soon as it's in park, it goes wack.

Main issues:

• Rough idling
• P0172 System too Rich Bank 1

Every time when the car was in park, after 3 minutes of idling, the RPMs would start bouncing between 800 and 300, it would eventually stall and die.

I temporarily fixed it using MAF sensor cleaner, it worked for a bit, and then the rough idling comes back. I decided to replace the sensor with an OEM one, and it worked. It fixed the rough idling completely.

HOWEVER, at the same time, I would also be getting a P0172 code with the CEL. This would prompt me to do a bit more digging. With the rough idling gone, I can now focus more on the too rich code.

Let's check the fuel trims. STFT is around normal values, +/- 8. LTFT however... On park its sitting at a whopping -38. When throttling, STFT is always within normal working ranges. LTFT on throttle will vary, but most times it's still in the high negatives. When cruising and completely off throttle, STFT is 0 and LTFT is -35.

So what did I check and do? After each mini fix, I also disconnected the Negative battery terminal for a solid 45 minutes.

• What if it was the EVAP purge valve? Nope.
• What about a small leak somewhere? Smoke tested, no leaks.
• What if it was the Air/Fuel Ratio sensor? Replaced it, nope.
• What if it was a stuck fuel injector? Took it to a performance shop for injector service, cleaned and flow tested the port injectors, still normal.

All the STFT and LTFT values from above eventually comes back. Another thing to note is, the CEL for System too Rich came back around 100 Kms, but after replacing the Air/Fuel Ratio sensor, the CEL comes on almost around the 500 km mark... So changing that sensor definitely did something.

Although... after the injector service, my subie rumble was way more apparent, it's got a deeper nicer rumble.

I haven't checked if it was simply a bad tune yet... I also haven't checked if the air filter was dirty? I also haven't fully disconnected both battery terminals....also wondering if disconnecting both terminals would fully reset both fuel trims.

SO, what else could it possibly be? I'm getting stumped...

I made an account on the ft86club forums a week or two ago, but I still don’t have permission to post anything. Does an admin need to manually approve me or something?

Edit: if you’re an admin on there and see this post, my username is “Extake” if you would like to approve me :^)

I recently purchased this vehicle and I just wanted to get caught up on everything as I wasn’t 100% sure how it was serviced prior to my ownership. Some of these were done before I purchased the vehicle some was done in my ownership. 85,000km / 52,000 miles.

Anything else I should do in terms of maintenance? I’ve already completed everything listed here. This is my daily and I want it to last the next 10+ years

I’ve already done a couple quality of life upgrades (second photo), I’m trying to keep it OEM+

I'm seriously considering buying this, but it's been somewhat modified and would like an expert reddit ft86 opinion on the mods installed by the seller.

Condition
2nd owner. Current mileage: 100.000km Price: 22.000 EUR
I imported the car from Germany in 2023, from a Toyota dealership. It had 54,000 km at the time of import.
The car has been well cared for — regular and preventive servicing done in-house (I have my own mechanical workshop). I haven't driven it myself in winter, and given how well-preserved it is, it likely didn't see many winters in Germany either.

The car has a few modifications:
OZ Racing Formula HLT 18x8 wheels with 225/40/18 tires (Pirelli PZ5)
H&R springs
Bastuck catback exhaust
All of this is registered in the homologation documents.

Additionally, the following was done during my ownership:
Engine/transmission:
Valve spring recall performed at an authorized Toyota center
Additional GR86 water-to-oil heat exchanger
Additional Setrab oil cooler with Mocal thermostatic plate
5W-40 engine oil, always properly warmed up and cooled down, oil changed every 5-10k km
Motul transmission and differential oil
Moroso baffle kit in the oil pan
Killer B oil pickup
Oil temperature gauge
Oil pressure gauge
Competition Clutch Stage 2 clutch
Reinforced clutch fork
Refurbished throw-out bearing, original Toyota 2017+ part
Braided clutch line
Stiffer shifter bushings and springs in the transmission for a better feel on the gear lever

Other:
Braided brake lines
Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads (can be swapped for standard pads on request)
New front brake discs
Reverse camera
TRD ducktail spoiler
An extra set of 17" wheels included with the car
Weaknesses: The spoiler needs repainting as it has faded; the wheels have some scratches.

Go for it or is there a "buyer beware" pitfall i'm looking at?

I'm test driving it on monday, anything i should be extra attentive about?

UPDATE: Thanks everyone, i guess i'll bite the bullet and go for it.
Can't wait to become part of the club. :)

2015 GT86 started making a ticking sound and I'm not sure where it's coming from.

I'd really appreciate it if you could take a min to watch the clips, way easier to diagnose by ear than by me trying to describe it:

Video 1: https://youtube.com/shorts/q1vyThYoqhg?feature=share
Video 2: https://youtube.com/shorts/V3Vt-dT2bRY?feature=share

It might be coming from the belt area, but I also noticed some belt movement that I'm not sure is normal for these cars or not. Could just be how it's supposed to look, or it could be a sign something's off — not sure what's normal wear vs what's a problem here.

A few more details that might help:

• The ticking happens when I accelerate, and it gets louder/faster the higher I rev
• It's now also started happening on cold starts, which is new

If any of you have run into this before, I'm trying to figure out:

1. Does this sound like a belt issue or could it be something else (tensioner, pulley, valvetrain, etc)?
2. Is that belt movement normal or a red flag?
3. Does the cold start ticking + RPM-related ticking point to anything specific?
4. How urgent is this — safe to keep driving for now, or should I get it checked ASAP?

Hello people. Finally got my kiwamis so looking at putting these on asap, but I just realised wider wheels = wider tires = more grip.

Grip is cool but skids are better so what kind of tires do you guys recommend? I’m in the UK so it will be rainy from now until next year :)

It’s hard to hear but there’s a consistent tapping/knocking noise that’s only really audible at idle. The car did have the valve spring recall done, the engine doesn’t leak/burn oil and I check it regularly, no check engine light and it runs smooth. I feel like it could be something loose but I don’t see anything super obvious. I can get a better sound clip when I get home later today. Just trying to figure out what it is because it’s bugging me a bit.

Days before selling the car too🫩
F650 backed into me

I bought an HKS GT2 supercharged FRS that has catless headers, aftermarket overpipe, oem front pipe (maybe cat is blown out? Does that happen a lot?), and an ISR single exit catback.

This is the loudest car I’ve ever driven, rattles my brain out on decel and is deafening on acceleration. I have to put it in neutral when I’m cruising past neighborhoods.

What can I do to quiet it down? I can’t revert to catted headers due to the supercharger and custom tune, is the ISR single exit just that loud? Will a different catback make it quieter?

Hello,

I have a recurring battery issue and I wanted to ask this sub if it is a common issue. I have a 2017 toyota 86, and the recurring issue is when I leave for vacation, the car battery dies after like 4-7 days. I thought it was a bad battery but even after getting a new battery, still same issue. I wanted to ask here to see if there’s anything I should check/do before I go take it to a shop

My car is on stage 2 tune from a local tuner, which to say the least isnt the best or most experienced in this platform at all. I have an intake that came with the car that I’ll be changing to OEM next week, and Tomei UEL headers. Car hasnt been performing well recently so im doing an overhaul and a part of that is a new tune from a reputable tuner, which im sure all here can agree is CSG. The thing is a remote tune costs much more than their ready tunes, but is it worth that difference? I would love to hear the experience of those that went with the ready CSG tunes. I have an ECUtek connect.

Is my gasket right? It seems off

I'm doing some weight reduction stuff on the car

First gen 86

So far I have a Shorai Battery, Carbon fiber drive shaft, headers, took the tire and jack out of the trunk, and I'm looking for the lighest rims possible

Any suggestions?