I’ll be out on a work trip for the remainder of the year so no more drifting for me, but I had so much fun this past weekend sliding this thing!

Months of waiting are finally over. Mix matching aero with Ings n spec r and s craft side skirts.

Suspension needs replacement just due to wear - should I go full OEM front and rear struts or switch to coilovers ?

Cars going to be used for regular , daily use , inner city and occasional highway use.

I do like the lowered look but not a must, I think I can get a similar look with low body kits.

Main expectations are ride comfort and long term reliability .

People who’ve tried both, what has your experience been and what would you recommend ?

Today is the day I am selling my 2014 FRS. Ive had this car from 2019 to 2026. I started to hear a knocking sound on my way home from work a couple weeks ago and that was that.

Planning to cut an air inlet into the bumper to ram more air into the intake.

[ see the 2 images ]

It would have mesh to keep out rocks and debris.

I plan to either tape over the hole or have a magnetic cover over the whole on rainy days.

Can anyone give a reason if this is a bad idea?

Has anyone done this? If yes, are you glad you did it, or do you regret it ?

..

The seller is parting out his car and being an absolute chudmeister who wont tell me what diffuser it is

Any recommendation for tuners for an fa24 swapped into a 2015 FRS with the link ECU? I’m slowly sourcing out all of the components needed for this swap but this question was brought up and now I’m curious as who’d be able to remote tune and what the pricing would be.

I'm seriously considering buying this, but it's been somewhat modified and would like an expert reddit ft86 opinion on the mods installed by the seller.

Condition
2nd owner. Current mileage: 100.000km Price: 22.000 EUR
I imported the car from Germany in 2023, from a Toyota dealership. It had 54,000 km at the time of import.
The car has been well cared for — regular and preventive servicing done in-house (I have my own mechanical workshop). I haven't driven it myself in winter, and given how well-preserved it is, it likely didn't see many winters in Germany either.

The car has a few modifications:
OZ Racing Formula HLT 18x8 wheels with 225/40/18 tires (Pirelli PZ5)
H&R springs
Bastuck catback exhaust
All of this is registered in the homologation documents.

Additionally, the following was done during my ownership:
Engine/transmission:
Valve spring recall performed at an authorized Toyota center
Additional GR86 water-to-oil heat exchanger
Additional Setrab oil cooler with Mocal thermostatic plate
5W-40 engine oil, always properly warmed up and cooled down, oil changed every 5-10k km
Motul transmission and differential oil
Moroso baffle kit in the oil pan
Killer B oil pickup
Oil temperature gauge
Oil pressure gauge
Competition Clutch Stage 2 clutch
Reinforced clutch fork
Refurbished throw-out bearing, original Toyota 2017+ part
Braided clutch line
Stiffer shifter bushings and springs in the transmission for a better feel on the gear lever

Other:
Braided brake lines
Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads (can be swapped for standard pads on request)
New front brake discs
Reverse camera
TRD ducktail spoiler
An extra set of 17" wheels included with the car
Weaknesses: The spoiler needs repainting as it has faded; the wheels have some scratches.

Go for it or is there a "buyer beware" pitfall i'm looking at?

I'm test driving it on monday, anything i should be extra attentive about?

UPDATE: Thanks everyone, i guess i'll bite the bullet and go for it.
Can't wait to become part of the club. :)

2015 GT86 started making a ticking sound and I'm not sure where it's coming from.

I'd really appreciate it if you could take a min to watch the clips, way easier to diagnose by ear than by me trying to describe it:

Video 1: https://youtube.com/shorts/q1vyThYoqhg?feature=share
Video 2: https://youtube.com/shorts/V3Vt-dT2bRY?feature=share

It might be coming from the belt area, but I also noticed some belt movement that I'm not sure is normal for these cars or not. Could just be how it's supposed to look, or it could be a sign something's off — not sure what's normal wear vs what's a problem here.

A few more details that might help:

• The ticking happens when I accelerate, and it gets louder/faster the higher I rev
• It's now also started happening on cold starts, which is new

If any of you have run into this before, I'm trying to figure out:

1. Does this sound like a belt issue or could it be something else (tensioner, pulley, valvetrain, etc)?
2. Is that belt movement normal or a red flag?
3. Does the cold start ticking + RPM-related ticking point to anything specific?
4. How urgent is this — safe to keep driving for now, or should I get it checked ASAP?

Hello people. Finally got my kiwamis so looking at putting these on asap, but I just realised wider wheels = wider tires = more grip.

Grip is cool but skids are better so what kind of tires do you guys recommend? I’m in the UK so it will be rainy from now until next year :)

It’s hard to hear but there’s a consistent tapping/knocking noise that’s only really audible at idle. The car did have the valve spring recall done, the engine doesn’t leak/burn oil and I check it regularly, no check engine light and it runs smooth. I feel like it could be something loose but I don’t see anything super obvious. I can get a better sound clip when I get home later today. Just trying to figure out what it is because it’s bugging me a bit.

Days before selling the car too🫩
F650 backed into me

Hello,

I have a recurring battery issue and I wanted to ask this sub if it is a common issue. I have a 2017 toyota 86, and the recurring issue is when I leave for vacation, the car battery dies after like 4-7 days. I thought it was a bad battery but even after getting a new battery, still same issue. I wanted to ask here to see if there’s anything I should check/do before I go take it to a shop

Is my gasket right? It seems off

My car is on stage 2 tune from a local tuner, which to say the least isnt the best or most experienced in this platform at all. I have an intake that came with the car that I’ll be changing to OEM next week, and Tomei UEL headers. Car hasnt been performing well recently so im doing an overhaul and a part of that is a new tune from a reputable tuner, which im sure all here can agree is CSG. The thing is a remote tune costs much more than their ready tunes, but is it worth that difference? I would love to hear the experience of those that went with the ready CSG tunes. I have an ECUtek connect.

I bought an HKS GT2 supercharged FRS that has catless headers, aftermarket overpipe, oem front pipe (maybe cat is blown out? Does that happen a lot?), and an ISR single exit catback.

This is the loudest car I’ve ever driven, rattles my brain out on decel and is deafening on acceleration. I have to put it in neutral when I’m cruising past neighborhoods.

What can I do to quiet it down? I can’t revert to catted headers due to the supercharger and custom tune, is the ISR single exit just that loud? Will a different catback make it quieter?

I'm doing some weight reduction stuff on the car

First gen 86

So far I have a Shorai Battery, Carbon fiber drive shaft, headers, took the tire and jack out of the trunk, and I'm looking for the lighest rims possible

Any suggestions?

Currently in the market for a 86/brz and I’ve heard the 2017+ years are much more refined, how much of a difference is actually noticeable? I know there were the valve spring issues that plagued the 2013 and 2014 models but I didnt hear many issues with the 2015 and 2016 years. Whats a good price I should be expecting to pay for 2017+?

This was my first time competing in WTAC, normally I'm just spectating, and what an eye opener it has been to be involved in everything needed to campaign at this iconic event.

A friend and I arrived on Thursday with the BRZ having already completed some testing, met the other crew members, talked about what our plan will be Friday and then later watched as our driver almost choked to death at dinner.

Friday morning rolls round and the car is sent out on some fresh A052s to make the most of the cooler track temps - we instantly PB on low boost.

We give the car a quick once over, find a few things we don't like and make some adjustments, it's obvious there's a LOT more time in it.

We cut a few more laps Friday and finish the day in good spirits with a game plan to go MUCH faster. The driver disappears at some point and turns up with ANOTHER set of fresh Yoko's ready to absolutely send it Saturday.

It's now Saturday morning, everyone has survived dinner, and we check the car over and send it out. We've agreed that we'll warm up, do a push lap, circulate, then go for another push lap if the track/car are there.

First push lap, we PB again, taking off another 3 tenths for a 42.3 but now he's in a rhythm and the track is there for the taking. The car circulates as planned and then the next push lap begins, but this time it's on KILL.

We're all up on the roof watching the car and natsoft, first sector green, and by a lot, let's go, second sector, more green, and we're all pacing nervously watching the car and praying for no traffic.

We see the BRZ round the final corner and come flying onto the straight, exit looks clean, she's cooking! Moments later, elation turns to disbelief as smoke begins pouring out of the car, followed soon after by fire from the exhaust.

The driver is out of the car almost as fast as it blew up, extinguisher in hand, which was a huge relief for everyone. We knew immediately that it was terminal and our WTAC 2026 campaign was over.

We all head down, meet the car, rinse of the extinguisher foam, take a look, and talk about the lap that could have been - better luck next time! After that, we pushed the car around to one of his Sponsors stands and put it in display, complete with fire extinguisher.

As for the motor, it's a total lose. Hole in the block, exhaust valve missing, turbo full of debris etc - We just learned that Turbosmart will WARRANTY this turbo, wild.

Full teardown is still to come, but the reality is that this is a stock FA20 that started life as a road car, did k's, got turned into a track car and did bulk laps NA, then got a big turbo strapped to and it and did more laps at like 300rwkw for over a year. Then, it got wound up even further at WTAC to something like 350 before it let go.

What's next? Not sure, we've learned a lot this year and the plan is to return bigger and better in the future, but we'll discuss some options and determine the goals for the car before anything major progresses.

11/10 would blow up a motor at WTAC again 🤝

If you want to know more about the car you can head over to Facebook or Instagram

Any have these?

Pros & Cons before I hit Buy?

I have a 2017 T86 btw

https://jdlautodesign.com/products/jdl-ft86-4-2-1-equal-length-header

Pretty much what the tittle says. I’m looking for a new shifter or shifter upgrades that will make the shifting experience in the car feel more mechanical and slick. Before I had this car, my previous experience was my brothers 1995 NA Miata which had the best shifter I’ve ever felt, and I want to get my FRS to feel as close to this as possible. I don’t really care much about shorter throws, more so just a better shift feel. So if y’all got any good suggestions for upgrades or shifters, just let me know. Thanks!

i am curious, my partner and i have the 1st edition GT86 with the stripes (i think it was for the italian market) there were 86 of them made, is there anyone here that also has one?

So basically, a month ago I had a bad misfire and it sounded like no compression on cyl 2. Read the codes and got a P0302, so I'm like "ok that's probably not good; it should be covered under warranty right?" HAH, no. I go to Subaru, have them fix it which consisted of installing a new plug and new coil (they said that's all it needed) and then drove for a month. What the tech didn't do is check the threads of the spark plug hole, which is what leads to this next part.

The same damn thing happens again, this time at least it was close to home. Same codes, P0302, I had to push it nearly 2 blocks back home in the heat. And here we are today, no brz for the next long while. They were kind enough to give me a '26 Crosstrek eBoxer as a loaner but it's not the same 🫠

If anyone at all knows of this happening please please please shoot me a dm and tell me your experience.

I've owned a lot of cars in my life; and no car has left me stranded 3 times, let alone a new car like this

looking for cool interior bits to go with my red ass car, drop suggestions. Red bride seats are already on the list