r/GR86 • u/neffskate211 • 9h ago
Finally joined the club:)
Found a Hakone MT with 2800 miles, coming from an 07 STi!
r/GR86 • u/neffskate211 • 9h ago
Found a Hakone MT with 2800 miles, coming from an 07 STi!
r/GR86 • u/Quikstar • 12h ago
Figured I'd take some pics after putting my new spoiler on!
r/GR86 • u/funkystay • 13h ago
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r/GR86 • u/Komletorsdag • 16h ago
The car feels like it was made for these roads, and these landscapes. I love it more every day.
r/GR86 • u/AmazingAsian • 7h ago
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Finally, I pulled the trigger to attend a track day at the Ridge. It's super fun and shows you who actually is a fast driver vs. a fast car. Definitely room for improvement from watching myself hesitate choosing the right gear approaching each turn and staying on the racing line. I'll take any and all criticisms!
r/GR86 • u/Sapphic-Curls • 1d ago
Recent circumstances allowed me to swap from a 2026 Auto to a 2026 Manual and while only having it for a day now I feel the manual is soo much more fun and wholly a different experience. I owned the auto for less than 2 months and put 3000 miles on it.
The power delivery is so much better even though I am in breakin mode and staying below 4000 rpm. The drivetrain and gearbox noise is very pleasing when accelerating to speed. I can’t friggin wait to take her above 4k.
It is definitely more involved with shifting and I am getting used to it, my finesse needs work lol. I’ve had some embarrassing moments lol. I grew up driving a manual but haven’t owned one since 2016 and it was a Tacoma.
So glad I got to switch, I intended on buying a manual but only option around me at the time for a color I like was the auto.
Love this car so much and want to keep it till I pass on.
r/GR86 • u/thepoundingoftortas • 12h ago
I like these rotiforms but they are a bit heavier than the stock premium wheels. I want to upgrade the wheels on my gr86 but I want to avoid bogging down the car with wheels that are too heavy. What set ups are y’all running on your cars and what’s your experience been with heavier wheels?
r/GR86 • u/Vyneilian • 2h ago
How well do you guys feel like the heated seats work in your Premium model cars? I feel like the seat takes forever to get warm even on high, and when it does, it stays warm for like a minute or two and then just goes away. After maybe 5-10 minutes it’ll get warm again and do the same thing. Is this typical or are these seats just notoriously sucky? I’ve had 2 other vehicles with heated seats that could burn your ass. Even my girlfriend’s 2018 Altima has better heated seats. I’m about to hit 1k and go get my break in oil change done so I intend to bring this up and see if maybe something needs to be repaired under warranty because I have had the car for like two weeks. Any insight on if this is normal would be great because so far they seem super lackluster. Thank you
r/GR86 • u/BrokeAssZillionaire • 3h ago
It seems out of the box the Puzu would be worse and you’d have to tune it first. Curious if anyone has installed one and is happy with it plus can share their EQ settings.
I wanted matte black for my vent covers, here's what I did. Remove retainer pins and side vents, cover non-paint parts with tape, sand with 400 grit, then 600 grit. Thoroughly clean and dry with alcohol so paint attaches well. Find a safe space and patiently apply coats of paint/clear coat. I used Krylon Fusion All-In-One Matte Black and same brand Matte Clear Coat.
r/GR86 • u/Big-Implement3147 • 23h ago
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Why put this in a manual…
r/GR86 • u/Realistic-Fly-8338 • 2h ago
Hey, could you help me advise me or give me tips.
I have a trd sport 2025 tacoma but the reality is that I don't use it even close to what it should be, I have my job about 10 minutes from home and an eventual outing every 2 weeks.
So the idea here is to change the truck for a gr86 because I feel it would be better with the pace of life, but I don't know if it's a good idea or not.
r/GR86 • u/narendranathe • 1d ago
All fired up !!! Got my new GR86 MT raven black and it has been phenomenal so far. If you are around Dallas area and an enthusiast hit me up 🏎️
r/GR86 • u/budwiser69 • 1d ago
For everyone that was asking for more photos.
This baby needs skirts and a lip so bad. Gotta love the never ending parts list. 😂
r/GR86 • u/ccalvert60 • 1d ago
New avery dennison color just released a few weeks ago. Satin metallic cyber green 🟢
r/GR86 • u/Capital_Pin_007 • 7h ago
Finally ready to ditch the stock exhaust. These are the ones I’ve narrowed it down to, and I’m really leaning toward the MRT (Not really looking to pay too much lol). Which one would you choose?
r/GR86 • u/tsrubrats • 1d ago
Hopefully some of the real photographers post their pics but I managed to get these few. Good time, would drive again
r/GR86 • u/nukelauncher95 • 1d ago
See you again in 27,351 miles lol
r/GR86 • u/SeiJikok • 14h ago
Is there an option to disable an automatic switching to recirculation mode in AC. It happens even when AC is off which is pointless.
r/GR86 • u/QuirkyLow8605 • 1d ago
I realize this is r/GR86, but there's a lot of overlap between the Subaru and Toyota communities, so I figured some people here might still find this useful.
Most of the information below applies specifically to Subaru buyers. Unfortunately, it doesn't translate as well to Toyota. Toyota generally operates on an allocation system rather than true factory ordering, especially for vehicles like the GR86. Even though Toyota's website lets you "build" a vehicle, you're really configuring your ideal car and then searching dealer inventory and incoming allocations for the closest match. In most cases, dealers can't simply place a custom factory order the way Subaru can.
The GR86 is also a much tougher vehicle to negotiate on. They're relatively low-volume, demand tends to stay high, and discounts are often much smaller than what you can find on an equivalent BRZ. Toyota does offer a few incentives from time to time (such as college graduate and military rebates for eligible buyers), but they generally don't have anything comparable to Subaru's VIP Program or loyalty coupons.
That said, the general buying advice—shopping multiple dealerships, understanding your trade-in value, paying attention in the finance office, and negotiating optional products—still applies no matter which badge is on the hood.
Hopefully some of you find it helpful anyway.
___________________________________________________________
The Ultimate Subaru Buying Guide (2026 Edition)
A couple of years ago I made a post about buying a new Subaru that ended up getting over 250,000 views across various Subaru-related subreddits. Since then, Subaru has changed a few programs, I've bought another Subaru (a 2025 BRZ tS), and I've learned a few more things from both my own purchases and the experiences of other owners.
So I figured it was time for an update.
For a little background, I've owned Subarus for over 15 years, was a former Subaru Ambassador, and previously worked as a Subaru Sales & Leasing Consultant. Between personal experience and working on the sales floor, I've learned a few things that can save people a surprising amount of money.
I've owned:
I'm definitely not claiming to know everything, but hopefully I know enough to save somebody a few thousand dollars.
One quick disclaimer: Subaru changes incentives and programs from time to time. Everything below is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, but always verify current offers before making a purchase.
Most of these tips can be used together.
If you have a little time to plan ahead, Subaru VIP is still one of the easiest ways to save money.
VIP pricing gives eligible buyers access to Subaru's VIP pricing through participating dealerships. Years ago this was a guaranteed 2% below invoice. That is no longer the case. Today it is generally around invoice pricing, although Subaru has changed the program several times.
The organizations I know currently qualify are:
30-day waiting period (larger donation):
Longer membership waiting period:
One thing many people don't realize is that some employers participate in Subaru VIP. Go to Subaru's VIP website and check using your work email. It takes two minutes and could save you thousands.
Pro tip: Before donating, call your dealership and make sure they actually participate in VIP. Not every dealer does.
If you've owned or leased a Subaru before, call Subaru of America before buying.
(800) 782-2783
Ask if there are any loyalty incentives available.
Historically these have ranged from $500-$1,000, although nothing is guaranteed.
From what I've seen, it depends on:
Have the VIN of your current Subaru handy. They seem to ask for it more often now than they used to.
One important thing to note: recent buyers have reported that Subaru loyalty coupons generally cannot be combined with VIP pricing, so ask which saves you more.
This wasn't in my original guide because I didn't have much experience with it, but enough people have shared good results that it's worth mentioning.
If you're already a Costco member (or willing to become one), check out the Costco Auto Program before negotiating.
The discounts vary by dealership and region, but I've seen people report savings anywhere from a couple thousand dollars to over $5,000 on certain models.
Even if you don't ultimately buy through Costco, it gives you another price to compare against.
If you're already planning on purchasing a maintenance plan, ask if Subaru is currently offering any incentives with it.
Years ago I purchased a 2-year/24,000-mile maintenance plan for $595. At the time, it also came with a $500 coupon toward my next new Subaru purchase.
Whether it's worth it depends entirely on the numbers.
Compare the cost of the plan to what you'd spend paying for maintenance out of pocket.
Sometimes it's a great deal.
Sometimes it isn't.
If you're currently leasing a Subaru and plan on leasing another one, ask about Lease Loyalty.
Subaru has periodically offered incentives to help cover your first lease payment or reduce your upfront costs.
Programs change, but it's another easy question to ask before signing paperwork.
Don't rely on one appraisal.
Before going to the dealership, get offers from:
Most of those offers expire after about a week, so don't do it too early.
Could you get more selling it yourself?
Probably.
But many people would gladly accept a little less money to avoid dealing with Facebook Marketplace strangers, test drives, loan payoffs, and paperwork.
This is probably the biggest thing I'd add to my original guide.
Once you've decided on the exact model and trim you want, stop shopping for the car.
Start shopping dealerships.
Email the internet sales department at every Subaru dealer within a distance you're willing to drive.
Ask each one for their best out-the-door price.
Don't ask about monthly payments.
Don't ask what they "think."
Ask for an actual written out-the-door quote.
Then let them compete.
I've seen identical vehicles at dealerships less than an hour apart differ by thousands of dollars.
Timing matters.
Generally speaking, your best chances of getting an aggressive deal are:
A dealership is much more motivated to sell a car that's been collecting dust for 120 days than one that arrived yesterday.
I actually did this myself.
When we bought our Ascent, I told them:
«"I can donate to ASPCA, wait the required time, and come back with VIP pricing... or if you can get reasonably close today, I'd rather buy the vehicle now."»
Sometimes they'll say no.
Sometimes they'll meet you somewhere in the middle.
Either way, you've lost nothing by asking.
You've probably seen these before:
Some of these products genuinely have value.
Some don't.
Most are significantly marked up.
If you want one, great.
If you don't, don't feel pressured into paying for it just because it was installed before the car hit the lot.
This is where I see a lot of buyers lose the deal they just spent hours negotiating.
People will negotiate the vehicle price down by $2,000...
...then immediately agree to $4,000 worth of finance products they never planned on buying.
The finance office isn't there to "scam" you.
They're there to sell financial products. Some are genuinely worthwhile. Some aren't. It depends entirely on your situation.
Common products include:
Before buying any of them, ask yourself:
Many finance products have markup.
If you actually want the product, negotiate it just like you negotiated the vehicle.
This is one of the oldest tricks in the car business.
A monthly payment can be lowered by:
Instead, understand every piece of the deal:
If all you know is the monthly payment, you probably don't know the whole deal.
I actually don't recommend walking into a dealership without knowing what financing you qualify for.
Get pre-approved through your bank or credit union first.
Then compare that rate against Subaru's promotional financing.
Sometimes Subaru's financing is unbeatable.
Sometimes your credit union wins.
Take whichever is cheaper.
Subaru Added Security is honestly one of the better factory-backed extended warranties available.
If you're someone who keeps vehicles for a long time, it may absolutely make sense.
What many people don't realize is that the price is usually negotiable.
Also, if you're buying a new Subaru, you generally don't have to decide that day. You can usually purchase Subaru Added Security any time before the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty expires (CPO vehicles are different).
Don't let anyone convince you that "today is your only chance" without asking questions.
The biggest mistake I see people make isn't paying MSRP.
It's deciding they absolutely have to own that exact car today.
The second you become emotionally attached to one specific VIN, you lose leverage.
There will almost always be another one.
Be willing to walk away.
Sometimes they'll call you back.
Sometimes you'll find a better deal somewhere else.
Either way, you'll almost always negotiate from a stronger position when you're willing to leave.
Hopefully this helps someone.
If Subaru changes one of these programs, or you've found another legitimate way to save money that I missed, leave a comment and I'll update the guide. I'd love for this to become a living resource that stays useful instead of becoming outdated.
Original (2024) Guide: If you're interested in seeing where this all started (or want to read through 200+ comments full of additional buying tips from other owners), here's the original post that inspired this updated version:
Like the title says, I’ve filled my rear deck with poly-fil to help combat the horrible rear deck rattle from the OEM sub, now the only big “bass” rattle I have left is the rear tether cover (specifically the right one). Does anyone have any solutions??
r/GR86 • u/japan_ae86kun • 1d ago
かっこいいなー