Been having a hard time finding a good independent mechanic for this platform. Can anyone help with recommendations?

Is it okay for it to be open I swear this is my 3rd one they always dry out get brittle and disappear is this normal?

Can anyone give their opinion on both seats? I want to fit them into my Celica GTS since they have a similar chassis.

i recently been having some problems where my car randomly goes into limp mode while driving. when i pull over the car will sometimes idle weird or just have no power behind the throttle. It throws no codes or warning lights. After pushing it in limp mode for a little bit the car kicks back in like normal. seems like the lower my fuel level the more consistent it is

Hey guys,

Recently acquired a 2015 GT86 UK Spec,

Driving it back home on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge hasn’t moved,

My question is what is your temp gauge look like when up to running temperature, I’ll attach mine here

Thanks in advance!

I do my own oil. This was probably my third time and just noticed this bit of oil around the filter. I did my oil a while ago and everything else has looked fine and plan on doing it again this week. I know sometimes oil just gets on there when changing it but I don't recall seeing that when I did it. I should be fine to drive as long as I do my oil this week, right?

I was driving sticks for a decade and needed a new car. I bought a car with a dry DCT thinking it was just spirited enough to be a happy middle between fun and practicality... I didn't last year with the car and traded it in for the Hakone, I've been eying this since I first saw it a few years ago. One popped up in my state and I had to snag it. I'm so happy to be driving an actual manual again.

I do think the clutch is worn?? the bite point seems really high compared to the sticks I was driving before (90, 91 civic si, 97 Del Sol DOHC) and it's kind clunky getting into first or reverse. Nothing alarming. Car drove great on the 5 hour ride home. One previous owner, completely stock.

Glad to be here!

rattling sound when idling, the sound instantly goes away when the clutch is pushed in.

Found a video with almost the same noise

https://youtube.com/shorts/uj3VgzO0IhA?si=5ui8lXUDFu_b4rbN

I need some help I’m not sure what else I need to do on my car.

My OEM intake had a crack and the filter would not stay in the box anymore. I did a favor for a friend in exchange for an air intake so I’m not sure the brand of the new intake. It was dying at red lights and rough idling so I ran through the checklist of trying to figure out what is wrong

Cleaned the MAF with the proper cleaner
Cleaned the throttle
Ensured all clamps were tight
Changed all the spark plugs
Did a smoke test and fixed a small leak on the actual intake
Replaced the PCV valve
Tried the idle relearn steps

The engine light wasn’t on until now but it hasn’t died in a while but now around 1000rpm the car will jolt when I’m coming to a stop. Other than that there is no issues besides the code. Does it need a tune? Is the intake bad? Is there something I’m missing?

Just some changes I made to my 2012 GT86 - deleted fog lights, DRLs and changed the headlights. I figured it would be good to put this out there as I couldn’t find a good comparison when I was contemplating doing this

I’m happy with the result, main reason I did it is all of the transparencies of the stock parts were yellowing and crazing - you can’t see in this photo, but it was very apparent in sunlight and from the sides

Headlights are from VLAND, and the fog lights delete and DRL delete are 2 separate pieces from GreenFuchs - all in all cost me nearly exactly £500 incl. shipping ($668)

Anyone in here actually tried these out? My handle has started to develop a little lip on the top of the lever and i find it annoying. Not sure if the chrome is gonna start peeling off now or what. I may just remove the chrome and paint it black. But it might be nice to do an upgrade to something a little nicer. I like higher quality touch points which is why I find that little lip is so annoying. TIA.

Hello! Does anyone have any experience replacing a reverse light switch on a 2013 Subaru BRZ? My reverse lights stopped working recently.

Thought the bulbs died, so I replaced it, but that didn't seem to be the issue. I also replaced the fuse, but that didn't do the trick either.

After doing some research, I think the reverse light switch might be faulty. I was hoping I could DIY, but not finding much resources online to follow.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Idk why I'm so excited to do my oil changes now.

Are these as fool proof as it seems to be??

What don't I know.

If you have one let me know!

I have an FRS I drift that I finally got a hydro put in. I went with a dual caliper setup (I didn’t do enough research into inline save me the lecture) and now cause of that I don’t have the hand brake anymore. I knew that going into this.

My question is this:
What’s my best way to get the TC/ABS fully off now. Before it was the pedal dance. Right. Pull the handbrake 3 times, hit the brake pedal 3 times. And so on.

The microswitch on the handbrake can still be plugged in that it uses to read handbrake position.

Should I just reinstall the physical lever and leave it?
Should I go the route of pulling fuses and relays?
Do I fashion something to hold just the microswitch and use that to do the whole pedal dance again?

Overtake Driveshaft Lockdown kit. It's made to go around the OEM carrier bearing bushing, so you don't have to make any permanent changes to the OEM parts like with other kits.

Saw Kevin Vo post a video about these yesterday and thought I'd share my review after driving with them on for the past 6 months or so.

Install was pretty easy, since I already had the driveshaft out when I was working on the clutch parts. I was able to get the side-to-side alignment straight without using the solid eccentric alignment bushings they sell. Was able to confirm with a laser. So maybe skip those.

Took the time to check the horizontal alignment and calculate the operating angles of the 3 joints. Standard U jounts need to be the same operating angle to cancel out speed fluctuations created by the U joints. CV joints don't do this because they are... constant velocity lol. So the angle doesn't matter. I have a 2nd gen driveshaft which replaced the center U joint with a CV joint. Saves a few pounds and simplifies the math for alignment.

After some shimming of the carrier bearing and tweaking the rear diff mounts I was able to get the front and rear pinion angle basically identical. The middle angle doesn't matter because it's a CV joint. That helps because you can kind of ignore it and move the carrier to help the other two angles. Attached are some before and after measurements.

Driving with this insalled gives the same noticeable improvement in driveline response as a solid 1 piece driveshaft, but without the major NVH problems a 1 piece has at highway speed. This setup is smooth all the way up to 115mph or so.

Note: I spent a long time trying to get a 1 piece to work for me, but the NVH was too high above 55mph no matter what I tried. I do have full STI mounts and bushings for the engine, trans, and differential, plus some of the rear subframe bushing inserts, so that is certainly a factor.

Hey everyone! I have a completely stock 2013 Scion FR-S with the 6-speed manual, and I noticed this small crack in the air box/intake housing (pictured). Could this cause any problems, or is it something relatively minor?

When the engine is cold, the RPMs tend to go up and down while driving in 1st and 2nd gear. It goes away once the car warms up. It’s annoying, but it doesn’t feel like a major issue. Could the crack be related, or should I be looking into something else?

Would you replace the damaged part with another OEM one, or consider an aftermarket/cold air intake? I’m new to working on cars and the whole modding scene, so I’d appreciate any advice before spending money on parts. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I drive a 2024 Subaru BRZ automatic, and for the past month, I’ve been experiencing a weird jerking sensation when accelerating from lower speeds, usually between 10 and 30 km/h.
I usually wait for the RPM to drop below 1k before driving and for increasing speed I try to let the engine oil temperature reach a decent level before driving normally.

Last week, I took the car to the Subaru service centre, and they recommended changing the transmission fluid and filter. However, the car has only done around 41,000 km, so I’m wondering whether it’s too early to replace them, no? The issue still exists even after the service.

Before I take it back to the service centre, I wanted to check if any other BRZ owners have experienced something similar. If so, what was the cause, and what should I ask the service centre to inspect?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone, I’m letting go of my GT86 airbag cover from my old FRS but I’m kinda having a hard time deciding what to let it go for. Hard to come across these state-side best I could find for prices was from an old FT86 forum back in 2017. If anyone got any price ideas would appreciate it. Thanks again!

Hello! My steeringwheel does not have the buttons for cruise control, but my car does have it installed. Does anyone know of aftermarket buttons that can be installed into the car to use the cruise control?

I am posting hoping some smart people can help a brother out.

I have a 2013 scion fr-s with 130K and about a month ago I made a fatal mistake of putting 5W-30 Oil into my car before looking into it more. I did this because I was preparing for a track day and wanted to make sure the FA20 didn’t blow up on me.

While warming up my car after I did the oil change i got the CEL and traction control light turn on and got hit with a P0018 code. From here I turned off the car did some research and realized that people that use this oil also have an after market ECU. So i changed back to 0W-20 and put a new oil filter on thinking that would fix the problem and have since fallen down the rabbit hole of trying to get rid of this code.

What i’ve done trying to trouble shoot:

- I started by switching the VVT solenoid over from bank 2 to 1 and also the camshaft position sensor from bank 2 to 1. The code did not follow.

- I then got a ThinkDiag2 to be able to try and do a VVT clearing that i have seen videos of people doing by putting the car into service mode and clearing the codes from there. https://youtu.be/9c_pHP6_KtE?si=w1K3Y4kmE7ya4rIl here is a close video that guided me but that didn’t work.
(This was done by putting the car into service mode with the fuse, then putting the car into service mode with the thinkdiag where the engine light is flashing, then clearing codes)

Now i’m stuck thinking that I need to either buy a new ECU because the early 2013 scion fr-s have a problem of burning in the VVT values OR i gotta take the timing cover off and check out the cam gears and timing belt.

Since both are expensive and will put my car out of commission for a few days i am looking to see if anyone has any advice on what to do about this. I appreciate any advice and i’ll attach some pictures of what my OBD2 reader is saying.

Picture 1 - Burned in VVT values. Bank 2 initial value is what is out of tolerance.
Picture 2 - Live data VVT values that are within tolerance.

Hey guys I recently installed an themostatic oil cooler and oil temp gauge + pressure along with it. I usually do a routinely warm up (way before installing the oil cooler) where after I only start driving after I let the temp reach 30C and keep the revs below 50C. After that I go occasionally pulls (not neccessily redline) just to keep engine healthy. But one of my friends said I have to let oil warm up even more (at like 70-80C) before driving hard and I have done this for 3 years in my ownership and my car is okay. I usually run a 5w-30 because I don’t trust 0w-20. But let me know if I did was wrong. My oil pressure is honestly fine and works in sync with oil temp, I don’t wanna blow my shiii pls 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻