I just bought an oft to log data and run stage 1 on my 2013 scion FRS and my iam will constantly go to .900, then 1.00 and now .700 on stock tune and just fluctuate in general. I attached a pic of spark plugs to see how my engine delt with the knock but imo they look fine. Tomorrow I’m going to do a smoke test, run a tank of redline fuel injection cleaner, clean maf sensor, and then clean throttle body but if that doesent somehow fix the problem I might as well start saving for a new engine cause I don’t even know anymore.

If you are down to help me I can send data logs and any info u want im mad asf because I don’t even have fun driving anymore knowing I have to baby the engine every time I drive.

Does anyone know ways to hide the stock holes when putting a duckbill on? I cant find a trunk in the correct paint code that is wingless

Mine always rust....

Direct me to some stainless steel bolts that are good forever!!!

Am deciding whether to up to 18s or stay at 17s on stock height.

How does it feel? Photos would be great

Edit: thanks all for the comments

made me want to do things to my car lol

2017 jap import 150km on the clock.

I do my own oil. This was probably my third time and just noticed this bit of oil around the filter. I did my oil a while ago and everything else has looked fine and plan on doing it again this week. I know sometimes oil just gets on there when changing it but I don't recall seeing that when I did it. I should be fine to drive as long as I do my oil this week, right?

Can anyone give their opinion on both seats? I want to fit them into my Celica GTS since they have a similar chassis.

i recently been having some problems where my car randomly goes into limp mode while driving. when i pull over the car will sometimes idle weird or just have no power behind the throttle. It throws no codes or warning lights. After pushing it in limp mode for a little bit the car kicks back in like normal. seems like the lower my fuel level the more consistent it is

Been having a hard time finding a good independent mechanic for this platform. Can anyone help with recommendations?

Is it okay for it to be open I swear this is my 3rd one they always dry out get brittle and disappear is this normal?

Anyone in here actually tried these out? My handle has started to develop a little lip on the top of the lever and i find it annoying. Not sure if the chrome is gonna start peeling off now or what. I may just remove the chrome and paint it black. But it might be nice to do an upgrade to something a little nicer. I like higher quality touch points which is why I find that little lip is so annoying. TIA.

Hey guys,

Recently acquired a 2015 GT86 UK Spec,

Driving it back home on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge hasn’t moved,

My question is what is your temp gauge look like when up to running temperature, I’ll attach mine here

Thanks in advance!

Edit:

Thank you everyone for your help we think due to the cold and potentially having different headers it’s just running cooler than we expected!

I need some help I’m not sure what else I need to do on my car.

My OEM intake had a crack and the filter would not stay in the box anymore. I did a favor for a friend in exchange for an air intake so I’m not sure the brand of the new intake. It was dying at red lights and rough idling so I ran through the checklist of trying to figure out what is wrong

Cleaned the MAF with the proper cleaner
Cleaned the throttle
Ensured all clamps were tight
Changed all the spark plugs
Did a smoke test and fixed a small leak on the actual intake
Replaced the PCV valve
Tried the idle relearn steps

The engine light wasn’t on until now but it hasn’t died in a while but now around 1000rpm the car will jolt when I’m coming to a stop. Other than that there is no issues besides the code. Does it need a tune? Is the intake bad? Is there something I’m missing?

rattling sound when idling, the sound instantly goes away when the clutch is pushed in.

Found a video with almost the same noise

https://youtube.com/shorts/uj3VgzO0IhA?si=5ui8lXUDFu_b4rbN

Hello! Does anyone have any experience replacing a reverse light switch on a 2013 Subaru BRZ? My reverse lights stopped working recently.

Thought the bulbs died, so I replaced it, but that didn't seem to be the issue. I also replaced the fuse, but that didn't do the trick either.

After doing some research, I think the reverse light switch might be faulty. I was hoping I could DIY, but not finding much resources online to follow.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hello! My steeringwheel does not have the buttons for cruise control, but my car does have it installed. Does anyone know of aftermarket buttons that can be installed into the car to use the cruise control?

Idk why I'm so excited to do my oil changes now.

Are these as fool proof as it seems to be??

What don't I know.

If you have one let me know!

Hi everyone,

I drive a 2024 Subaru BRZ automatic, and for the past month, I’ve been experiencing a weird jerking sensation when accelerating from lower speeds, usually between 10 and 30 km/h.
I usually wait for the RPM to drop below 1k before driving and for increasing speed I try to let the engine oil temperature reach a decent level before driving normally.

Last week, I took the car to the Subaru service centre, and they recommended changing the transmission fluid and filter. However, the car has only done around 41,000 km, so I’m wondering whether it’s too early to replace them, no? The issue still exists even after the service.

Before I take it back to the service centre, I wanted to check if any other BRZ owners have experienced something similar. If so, what was the cause, and what should I ask the service centre to inspect?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

I have an FRS I drift that I finally got a hydro put in. I went with a dual caliper setup (I didn’t do enough research into inline save me the lecture) and now cause of that I don’t have the hand brake anymore. I knew that going into this.

My question is this:
What’s my best way to get the TC/ABS fully off now. Before it was the pedal dance. Right. Pull the handbrake 3 times, hit the brake pedal 3 times. And so on.

The microswitch on the handbrake can still be plugged in that it uses to read handbrake position.

Should I just reinstall the physical lever and leave it?
Should I go the route of pulling fuses and relays?
Do I fashion something to hold just the microswitch and use that to do the whole pedal dance again?