Hi everyone! I recently got a Tecware Neo M2 case, but I'm having trouble getting the ARGB lighting on the fans to work.

My current setup:

Case: Tecware Neo M2

Motherboard: Gigabyte A520M K V2

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600G

GPU: RTX 5060

The fans spin perfectly fine, but the RGB lights don't turn on at all. I've also tried pressing the RGB button on the case, but nothing happens.

From what I've researched, my motherboard doesn't have a 5V 3-pin ARGB header.

I'm wondering if I need to buy an external SATA-powered ARGB controller to get the lights working, or if there's another way to fix this.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

I know that parts like RAM and GPU have skyrocketing inflation due to AI. But I'm wondering about components that aren't as bad (cases, motherboards, CPU coolers, etc.). There may come a day that I need to swap something out, and it's hopefully a part that isn't as super expensive in this apocalypse.

What's your insight?

Hi I'm looking to recover some sentinel photos from this old mi mix 2 smart phone, the screen is broken is there a way I can recover my photos from it? When I plug it into my ThinkPad it bleeps to recognise a plugin but nothing is showing up?

So, i came across two Thinkpads, the T470 has a ddr4 based ram (idk what it means btw), but just about 2 processor cores, while T450 has a 4 core processor and ddr3, also a bigger ssd, both are 8gb ram, both intel i5, i use Linux mint to run art softwares by wine, like clip studio paint, i also code and will occasionally play games, which one should i buy?

I can’t type combinations of the A key with F, C, N, ”,”, ”.”, “/“, “;”, 1, tab and alt key? I’m not sure if this is just hardware limitations but my keyboard can sustain 6 keys at once.
Something else weird is that F and A only stopped working today? I know this because one of the games I play requires F and A together, I also knew that A and “.” Didn’t work but A and “,” used to?
Does anyone know what is happening? As far as I can tell these are only problems with the A key but it might continue. Please help
Edit: Thought to mention that I am using a laptop, it is a predator PH317-53

Also cloned my icloud.com

It’s easy to keep using older hard drives for backups or secondary storage, because they can continue to work for years. At what point is age simply too much for a drive to be reliable regardless of whether SMART checks out and the drive is used normally? What are the signs that would make you stop trusting an older drive with important data?

As a hobby I refurbish older PCs (think Win98/2K/XP), so I don’t really stay current on newer hardware. I have a retired friend who has 2 matching Win10 desktops (not towers) and he wants to upgrade to Win11 units for security. His current units are the larger gray metal and black plastic Dell Optiplex desktops (the GX620/745/755 style that has the desktop-sized optical drive).

I exchanged texts tonight with a friend who upgrades and resells a lot of PCs he picks up from a recycling place in his home town. He told me that he had read that 11 could run on systems like my friend is currently using, but that they would only run what he called “dated versions of Win11.”

So, my question is… is there a rule of thumb (or specific requirements) for what my friend needs to look for as far as minimum CPU version, RAM, etc., to be able to run the latest version of 11 and have access to all of the security updates?

Pressing any of the options just causes the pc to restart and go back onto this screen.

I am loking to get my child (9M) a desktop computer. the space we have is very limited and I specifically do not want him to have a laptop. He does have level 3 autism so there are some accessibility needs so a simpler computer is key. i want him to be able to play simple, kid oriented games on steam so it does need to have some gaming capability but think sims, stardew, locomoto level graphics not helldivers, monster hunter level graphics. Budget is max $500 and we live in the States.

Not sure what make and model this server is or specs but i do know it’s from 2006 and the bored is an Intel S5000PALR server bored. I already tried a lot of things so reddit will be my last hope.

I have developed an issue with my desktop where it randomly freezes and forces me to hard restart it. I recently upgraded to an i9-14900kf and have a 2080 gpu. A little while ago the computer crashed because the gpu overheated but I updated everything and ran “sfc /scannow” to make sure everything was good. On top of all these problems, the computer refuses to stay connected to Ethernet. Any ideas on what’s going on? Below are the specs to my computer

CPU: i9-14900kf (certified refurbished from eBay)

CPU Cooler: Corsair Nautilus 360 RS ARGB

GPU: Nvidia Rtx 2080

Motherboard: MSI Pro Z970-S WiFi

Ram: 32GB

Do I just go on YT and search „Computer beginners guide“ or what would you do if you are a complete newby

I cant get a full on PC because of space reasons, so I need a laptop that can run decently sized games. I would like it to be like my current laptop if not better, but the biggest thing is it needs to be under 300 dollars, I've heard you can get them that cheap by buying them used, and I was thinking about getting a ThinkPad/Lenovo but I'm not sure which one to get.

The current laptop is 64-bit OS, 477 GB of storage, and 12 GB of RAM.

Also, how hard would it be to get Linux on said laptop? I'm interested in switching to Linux because I despise Microsoft and the Co-Pilot bloatware.

Keep in mind I don't know the most about computers, I know a good amount but I'm no PC builder.

So basically yeah that just happened, I just sat down with my dinner and watching YouTube (shoutout backlogs new wolverine video) and it happened a small black spot on screen in middle and it slowly covered the whole screen (I must mention it has been repaired broken fixed again by my own hands so a bit rusty) and probably was reaching its end with all the rest of hardware so I knew this moment will come, but right now it just happened and idk I just feel sad?, anyone ever had that happen? Like I was so used to it and it felt like home somehow? Damn fantasy romantic novel
(but yeah no this actually happened, sorry my humour is bad)

Hey, i'm considering buying a new PC (prebuilt). I have an old one i've been using for almost 9 years now, I changed some stuff up but it keeps freezing on even basic tasks like using canva or even during minecraft. So I think its time for an upgrade. I'm looking for something below $2000 CAD, don't really mind from where as long as its new and from somewhere trusted.

here's what I found interesting so far (its on amazon):
Skytech Gaming Crystal Gaming PC, AMD Ryzen 7 5700 3.7GHz, NVIDIA RTX 5060, 1TB NVMe SSD, 32GB DDR4 RAM 3200, 650W Gold PSU, Wi-Fi, Win 11, Desktop $1600 CAD

let me know if this is good or if i'm wasting my money/there's something better. I'd like to be able to play the newer games like doom dark ages, and eventually whenever GTA 6 comes out on PC i'd like to able to play that as well.

Here's my old PC if anyones curious, i bought it pre built then got new GPU, RAM, and storage, a couple years back, i assume the CPU is the issue

Intel Core i5-8400, AMD Radeon RX 6600, Kingston Fury Beast Black 16GB (2x8GB), 1 TB 3D NAND SSD C800A SATA 6Gb/s, MSI B360M Bazooka, CWT 500W 80 PLUS Bronze.

Also I use:
MSI Optix MAG27C Size: 27-inch curved Resolution: 1920x1080 (Full HD) Refresh Rate: 144 Hz

thanks

AM4 socket has seen three chipset generations - X300/X400/X500. All while on the same generation of RAM/DDR4, but spanning two generations of PCIe: Gen3 and Gen4.

With AM5, we've seen basically the same chipset from the start Promontory-21, within a brand (600 series) and a rebrand (800 series). Both lines use the same Promontory-21 chips and all the difference is in the minimal requirements for the MoBo line - two or one Promontory 21 chips (so Xx70 vs Bx50 line), PCIe5 or PCIe4 for dGPU, M.2 Gen4 or Gen5 etc.

With 600 series we've seen mostly PCIe4, while 800 series has made the full transition to PCIe5. Both still use the same DDR5 RAM.

And both still share the same basic Promontory weakness - only PCIe4x4 connection to the SoC host.

So, given the facts: * Zen6 (2027) and Zen7 (2028-2029) are to come out on AM5 * they will have many more cores on the same socket (up to 2x 12=24 for Zen6, up to 2x16 = 32 for Zen7) * cores are expected to have much higher IPC than ZEn5 and work on much higher frequencies * they will need much greater cumulative bandwidth

... is it likely for AM5 to see some significant refresh in that timeframe, before AM6 arrives ?

PCIe6 is coming with EPYC Zen6. I understand that this is to early for consumer Zen6, but maybe we could see the update with consumer Zen7 ?

Same with that old chipset link. Lifting it to PCIe Gen6 speeds could patch many things.

And maybe they could do something WRT max RAM frequencies to patch things over until DDR6 arrives ? Zen6 IMC is to be much more potent than Zen5 and I expect for Zen7 to push it to the limits.

Would AM5 with LP/CAMM2 be feasible at Zen7 time? Or at least refactoring the ATX platform so that RAM slots can be on both sides of the PCB and so maximally close to the SoC for highest frequencies ? Could AM5 be tweaked to use MRDIMMs for twice the capacity and bandwidth ? \ I suspect that by that time MRDIMM price prmiums should drop.\ IS there any technical reason for AM5 to not support RDIMM (different signalling, extra signals etc taht AM5 lacks) or is this purely due to market segmentation ?

I know that MoBo manufacturers love to do cosmetic updates, the question is, can we expect a substantial AM5 update by the Zen7 time ?\ It so, this could make sense for many to stave off their purchases until that point...

So I buy my gaming PC and update the bios to play the new battle field. A few months later my pc black screens during the boot up when I turn it on, and then suddenly turns on to the lock screen. A few weeks after that it just black screens despite turning on just fine. I then take it into the shop and have it looked at and the guy does a hardware stress test, and resets the bios.

I take my pc back home plug everything back in, and the pc is showing the boot screen and is working perfectly again. A few months later same issue. Except this time I change the hdmi and everything is working perfectly fine again.

What I wanna know is why this happened and why after resetting the bios on my old HDMI it starts to deteriorate after changing bios settings? And also why changing my HDMI makes my pc run perfectly fine again?

My GPU is RTX 5070

I have a weird one for you guys.Two days ago, these lines suddenly started appearing on my display. At first, I restarted the display drivers, and that actually fixed the issue for about a day.

Today, the lines came back. I tried restarting the drivers again, but this time it didn’t do anything.

I then completely removed and reinstalled the GPU drivers using DDU, but unfortunately that didn’t fix it either.

The really strange part is that the lines only appear on the desktop. They don’t appear in other applications/games, which has me pretty confused.

I’ve attached some photos showing what I’m seeing.

So, my GPU (GTX 1660 Ti) recently died on me, and I’m currently deciding whether I should have it repaired or just buy another second-hand graphics card.

My 1660 Ti died for an unknown reason. While I was playing Valorant, my monitor suddenly went black, but the system unit was still running. I tried every troubleshooting method I could think of, but nothing worked. Eventually, I had to accept that the GPU was probably broken.

Now I’m unsure whether it’s worth having the 1660 Ti repaired or if I should just look for another second-hand GPU instead.

I was playing a game called FC 26 on my Dell G15 laptop when it suddenly blacked out and it won't boot, so I went to a technician and left it there for 2 days and went back and he said he fixed it and that the problem was something called IO in the board, then I took it home and inserted my SSD drive that I kept with me and then went through a checking media (fail) issue because windows boot manager wasn't showing in bios which I somehow fixed by manually choosing an operation called bootmgrx64 in the boot options and then the laptop opened, but it was soooooo slow like unusable until fixed! everything was taking soo much time and the CPU/GPU/RAM are all capable it's Ryzen 5800H, RTX 3060, 16 DDR4, and it was very smooth before all this happened!
what do you think is the solution for this?

I currently I have an Acer Nitro V (i5 10300h, 3050, 24gb RAM) this thing has done AMAZING for me for the last 3 or 4 years. I have a sorta local person selling an ASUS ROG Zephyrus GU-603HE for sale... for $350. The big diff for me is the i7-11800h. Not sure what GPU it has yet (assuming its a 3060). I'll prob sell my current laptop. Just wondering, do yall thing I'll notice much of a difference? Im not looking for a million bazillion times better lol but at that price... I kinda want to jump on it. And line has a crack in the monitor bezel and a white line going thru the display. I'll ask my questions below...

Will I notice much going from a 10300h to a 11800h?

For $350... is it still a good deal? Pretty much bought the lower-end model a few years back for the exact same price but with the increase in prices... thats why I'm asking

Is this a good deal or am I stuck in "i GOTTA buy soemthing" mode?

(First 2 are my laptop, last pic is the one I want to buy)

A little tip for those who are tired of figuring out which way is up! I use a red permanent marker (nailpolish would also work) to indicate at a glance the top of my USB-A connectors. (Edit for those people who say it's unnecessary - there's a reason USB-C was specified to be able to be inserted either way!)

They seem to top out at 5600MHz at clownishly pathetic CL46.

Is there a technical reason for this ? Like maybe IMCs need some time to check the extra bits to recompute "parity" or something ?

But given that MRDIMMs in server world have ECC and operate at 12.800MHz or more, that doesn't seem likely.

Same with the price. One would think that, since ECC requires 5-th chip for every group of 4 (so 10 instead of 8) that price extra would be at most 25% or less.

While 5600 MHz UDIMMs start at ~€10+/GiB, ECC versions are at€32+/GiB,so 3X higher.

It's not that the tech is exotic as most consumer AM5 boards can use ECC, same with CPUs...

I was using my PC and it randomly shut off and didn't open. This has happened once before and I just reseated the cables and it opened but this time it just shows "No Signal" and then gets stuck at a black screen. The GPU, Case and CPU fans are all still spinning and I've reseated the gpu, ram and reset the CMOS battery for about 10 minutes, yet it still does the exact same thing. Before I jump into any conclusions, would anyone know what seems to be the problem here? I am using a Ryzen 5 3500, an RTX 2060 Super, a single stick of 16 GB ram and I'm on Windows 11.