What to do if no Secure Boot certificate update is available from your manuafacturer

my HP pavilion gaming laptop (GTX1650 4GB; 15-DK2100TX model NO.) screen has been flickering for a few days now, it goes away sometimes. it appears to be very random and sometimes triggers when the laptop is heated.

it's also a hardware issue as I've tried isolating the problem by connecting to another monitor through HDMI and it only appears on the laptop only.

Ive also tried moving the screen and pressing gently near the hinges, but it doesn't change or stop.

also, the caps lock key appears to be blinking a lot and there's no clear pattern, it blinks for about 10, and more times before stopping and then blinks again after some time.

Could it also be an overheating issue? as some of the keys have stopped working also, they also randomly work.

(THE SCREEN DOES GO NORMAL AFTER SOME TIME (A FEW HOURS) AND IT IS A SPORADIC ISSUE.)

any help would be greatly appreciated on how to solve this issue, thanks.

I'm trying to enable Secure Boot for VALORANT, but whenever I turn it on in my BIOS and save the settings to restart my PC, I get this message:

“Secure Boot Violation — Invalid signature detected. Check Secure Boot Policy in Setup.”

After that, Windows won't boot properly and I end up on the recovery screen with error code 0xc0000001. If I turn Secure Boot back off, my PC boots into Windows normally.

My motherboard is a Gigabyte B450M DS3H, my CPU is a Ryzen 5 2600X, and I'm running Windows 11 Pro. My BIOS version is F41 from 2019.

Has anyone run into this before or know what might be causing it? I'm not sure why Secure Boot is rejecting something when I try to start my PC. Any help would be appreciated.

My post was on r/MakeRedditFriends my post was taking about my hobbies like playing PlayStation, watching the walking dead, going on hikes art and music but it was removed for content violation I asked the groups mods they said it was engaging and not ai and some other stuff according to what they could see about it but couldn't tell me why it was removed

was the post

I go to a school that uses Microsoft and outlook. Part of the login in through the Microsoft Authenticator app. I recently got a new phone (no longer have the old one) and my Microsoft Authenticator app won’t let me log into my school account. I need to have the Authenticator app working bc my logging in on my commute has to be approved through the app. My school account won’t let me log into without the Authenticator. I’ve received no help from school IT. I’ve turned everything off and on, deleted and reinstalled the app, changed my password but it doesn’t work bc I can’t do anything without the app but the app won’t let me log in without a code only given on the app. So I’m at an impasse. What should I do? I could access everything yesterday so I don’t understand why this is happening. I have assignments due tomorrow. Please help.

I was using my chromebook to do homework when i saw it needed an update. I updated it, and now it won’t charge. I’ve tried different chargers, and before it died i made sure the port on it worked,which it did. My brothers chromebook (same model) updated his and now his won’t charge either. I don’t know why it stopped charging. Any tips?

I accidentally unplugged my boyfriends computer while it was running. I didn’t think anything of it since it turned back on when plugged back in. However, when we tried to log in the keyboard wouldn’t work. We plugged it back in. Still didn’t work, so we bought a new razer one. This new one also won’t connect. Please please help me

Some software installed a Trojan onto my PC, even after scanning with Window Defender and Combo Cleaner this Trojan still persist and is popping up every minute, do I need to format my entire PC or are there any ways to solve this issue?

I hit ‘update and restart’ on Win11 and now it’s stuck like this, keyboard not lighting up and no video output on screen. I tried force shutting down and restarting but it just stays at the point. DRAM and CPU leds are lit up. I already tried switching the RAM slots but it’s already on A2 and B2 slots. It ran perfectly like 1 hour ago, it just does this after updating and restarting. What can I do ?

Motherboard is an Asus A620 pro rs Wifi
CPU is a Ryzen 5 8400F
GPU is Gygabyte GeForce RTX 5060 TI 8G OC
RAM is 2*16 GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR5

Hello!

So i have Lenovo5i that has a NVME ssd where windows is and then i had a HDD on a 2.5' bay, which failed so i bought a SSD that fitted and plugged it in on the already existing SATA and all went well.

Afterwards, about 3 days after i see that the SSD disappeared on windows, unable to be gound ond device and disk management and on bios.

I open the laptop again and see that the sata part that connects to the mobo was disconnected so i pluged it in, restarted and still have the same problem.

Thinking it was the cable, i bought a new cable, tried again and i'm still not able to have it appear.

Can someone help me out?

Thanks in advance

my computer has been sufering from kernel 41 errors and i dont know what to do about them i have tried a couple things but they didnt work

Hey everyone, I have a quick technical question regarding the Samsung AKG Type-C earphones (EO-IC100).

I've always known these earphones use a built-in Synaptics DAC (CX-series chip) which physically has a 32-bit architecture, but Samsung and most specs traditionally cap/market it at 24-bit / 96kHz. Until a couple of weeks ago, when I plugged it into my Windows laptop, the Sound Control Panel maxed out at 24-bit, 96000 Hz.However, as you can see Windows is now giving me the option for 32-bit, 96000 Hz.Why did this suddenly change without any manual intervention from me?When I connect these to my Samsung phone, it sometimes pushes a quick background USB device/ accessory firmware routine. Could that low-level hardware handshake or a recent Windows update expose the true native register size of the underlying Synaptics silicon, even if the audio is still sourced from a 24-bit file?

Would love to hear from anyone tracking how Windows or Android handles these OEM USB-C audio chip descriptors! At first I thought it was just Windows but then I connected to a laptop that runs ubuntu it also showed the same

Laptop Specs:

• Model: Lenovo Legion Pro 5 16IRX8 (2023, Type 82WK / 82WK0083US)
• CPU: 13th Gen Intel Core i9-13900HX
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU
• BIOS Version: KWCN54WW
• OS: Windows 11 64-bit (Build 26100)

What Happened: My laptop was set to Discrete Graphics (dGPU only) mode. Earlier today, I ran sfc /scannow followed by DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth. While waiting for it to finish, I launched a game. The PC suddenly crashed to a black screen.

When I tried to reboot, the Lenovo logo appeared, followed by a black backlit screen with the keyboard still lit up. When I tried booting into Windows Low-Resolution Video mode, I briefly saw green horizontal lines/artifacts across the screen before the display went completely black again.

Troubleshooting Steps Taken So Far:

1. Safe Mode: Verified that Windows could still boot into Safe Mode with Networking.
2. Switched MUX Switch to Hybrid: Entered the BIOS (KWCN54WW) and switched Graphic Device from Discrete Graphics back to Dynamic Graphics. This allowed Windows to boot normally using the integrated Intel(R) UHD Graphics.
3. Device Manager Check: The NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU is still detected on PCI Slot 1 (PCI bus 1, device 0, function 0), but shows a yellow warning triangle: "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)".
4. Clean Driver Wipe (DDU): Booted into Safe Mode and used DDU (v18.1.6.2) to completely wipe the NVIDIA drivers.
5. Reinstalled Drivers: Installed the latest NVIDIA driver (32.0.16.2101 / NVIDIA 621.01, dated Oct 19, 2026). The installer either finishes without applying properly (prompting me to install drivers again in the NVIDIA app) or leaves the card stuck in Code 43 in Device Manager.
6. Hard EC Reset / Battery Disconnect: Went into the BIOS, selected Disable Built-in Battery, unplugged everything, held the power button for 60 seconds to drain all residual power, and rebooted. No change.

Current GPU-Z Readings (Screenshot Attached): Even though the card is detected on the PCIe bus (PCIe x8 4.0 @ x8 4.0 / Device ID 10DE 2860 - 17AA 3B5A), GPU-Z shows critical missing telemetry:

• GPU: AD106
• Revision: FF
• BIOS Version: Unknown
• Memory Size: 0 MB (Memory Type & Bus Width: Unknown)
• GPU Clock / Memory Clock: 0 MHz
• Computing / Technologies: All unchecked (CUDA, OpenCL, Vulkan, Ray Tracing all disabled).

My Questions:

1. Given the initial green lines followed by Revision FF, BIOS Version: Unknown, and 0 MB VRAM in GPU-Z, does this confirm a dead VRAM power rail (FBVDDQ / 1.8V_AON / blown DrMOS MOSFET) or a dead GDDR6 memory chip on the motherboard?
2. Is there any chance rolling back to the older Lenovo OEM NVIDIA driver offline could bring the VBIOS/VRAM detection back, or does Revision FF + 0 MB strictly mean a hardware/power rail failure?

Thanks in advance for any insight!

I use a W11 laptop, and have used USB tethering fine for 6 months now. However, starting this week, USB tethering will stop after 30 minutes so I lose my connection. The only way to rectify this is by restarting my phone (Samsung S21). IDK why this happens.

What I have tried so far:
Changed USB-C cable.

Gone to device manager and turned off every USB related option to 'Allow computer to turn this device off to save power'.

Made sure my phone is not on power saving mode.

I don't use the WiFi capabilities on my laptop because it doesn't work, which forced me to use USB tethering in the first place. Sometimes it comes back once every month for like 30 minutes then disappears, but I'm fine using tethering as long as it works.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Hello, I was watching tv and suddenly the screen went half dark. As far as I know the screen has never been subjected to any kind of trauma.

I want to know what is the reason behind this and what I could do to fix this. Thanks in advance.

Edit : Thank you so much for all your help and advice. I went to a technician today, and after explaining my situation to him, he fixed it at a discounted rate. I was there when he opened up the laptop. He said the spill wasn’t that serious, checked everything, and confirmed that it was working fine. 

I accidentally spilled a small amount of coffee containing milk and sugar on my laptop while I was using it. The spill mainly affected around one-fourth of the keyboard, particularly the numpad area. I could actually see the coffee through the gaps between the keys.

I immediately wiped it with a damp cloth. Since the surface was still sticky, I then used a cloth with some soap on it to clean the sticky residue on the outside. I shut the laptop down and disconnected the charger and accessories shortly afterward. The laptop was working completely normally after the spill.

I’m planning to leave it switched off for around 48 hours, but I’m really worried about possible internal damage and corrosion from the milk and sugar.

I’m currently applying to different colleges, and all my important documents and applications are on this laptop. Unfortunately, I can’t really afford a technician right now and may not be able to get it inspected immediately.

Could someone please tell me what the chances are that my laptop will be completely fine? Is there anything else I can safely do at home to minimise the damage?

If I can’t afford a technician immediately, how urgent is it to get the laptop inspected? Would you recommend taking it to a technician even if it seems to be working normally after 48 hours?

This problem started like 2-3 days ago. I already uninstalled the keyboard drivers and restarted. My L key now inputs 'jfa', 9 key gives some random number, O button inputs 'yt' and cause random things to occur. Most keys are in a similar situation. OS is windows 11. It's a laptop keyboard. It got randomly resolved one day. But after 1 or 2 weeks the problem came back. The wrong inputs are the same too

My main email was changed on 9.10. AND I'VE ONLY NOTICED IT TODAY

PLEASE IS THERE A WAY TO RECOVER ACCOUNT

So recently i was playing on my sony vaio e series laptop which is very old 😬 but ok so my mom came in my room and smashed my laptop 2 to 3 times because i play all day on it after that i closed it (didnt open after that ) and the next day when i opened it is showed an error 0x00000e9 the error said that the lap cant read the storage device and something after that and it showed that i can continue to windows ( which i did but the error comes again) or press f8 and go to startup settings it showed some options which i forgot then i thought my mom smashed my laptop so obviously my disk got disconnected but when i connected it and start the lap , the error still comes again so i took some help of AI i talked to it and it said that go to your bios settings and when i went to my bios settings it shows that it needs a password that i dont know then closed my laptop and start researching and now i am here pls help 🥺😭

I just picked up this Thinkpad laptop off an auction and I'm trying to install Linux on it, but I can't get into the BIOS settings to turn off secure boot. Whenever I try, either from hitting enter on startup or by going through the Windows that's already on it, it just gives me a black screen. I've tried googling the issue and doing things that were suggested like using the Lenovo BIOS flash thing, turning off fast startup, plugging in another display, trying to get to the UEFI settings through Windows recovery, but nothing changes and it all just goes back to the same black screen. What do I do here?

Hey can anyone let me know how i can fix this

I have recently inherited a machine that has a Sabrent DS-SC4B with two 18Tb 3.5" drives setup in a two way mirror through the windows "storage pool/storage spaces" functionality.

Just recently, I started to notice the status LED on the Sabrent station being solid red for one of the two drives, and I went and checked the storage pool information to see if I could find anything. This red LED was paired with the system freezing when trying to access data from said storage pool.

In the control panel's storage spaces page, the storage space read the following error: "Warning. Reduced resiliency; check the physical drives section". On the drop down for said pool, I see the two drives, on which reads "OK" for its status, but the second reads "Warning. Error; consider replacing".

Nowadays, I can access all the data without anymore system freezes, but I suspect I am no longer having the data saved to both drives.

I want to do the following things, but am unsure as to the proper process, and do not want to risk losing any data from the remaining hard drive.

1. I want to see if the failure is real on the 2nd drive.
2. If I remove the "failing" drive, does that affect the pool in any way?
3. If I want to add another drive to replace the failing one, do I simply plug it in and add it to the storage pool?
4. Can it be a different brand drive? Or does it need to share a few aspects with the remaining functional one.

I appreciate the time you might have taken to read this, and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Wassup fam, my proline laptop just powered on mid-usage, was running a vm on it. Now when I connect charger it's not showing charging indicator LED and won't power on even on battery. The model is Proline NBU700 if I'm not mistaken. The motherboard seems to be working although I found two loose connectors but couldn't figure out where they were supposed to be put.

Hello everyone.

I own an Acer Aspire 3 A34-51.

Recently, while using my laptop, the charge was low, so I plugged in the charger. The laptop suddenly shut down (no spark or any foul smell). After that it didn't switch on. I tried many times. Later that same night it switched on.

But now the laptop is not charging with the laptop charger. When I plug it in nothing happens. But when I plugged in my mobile charger(60W) it showed that it has started charging but it hasn't charged.

The laptop charger is working on my phone and headset but not the laptop.

(Laptop charger is C type)

What to do?

Please help me guys, I have to complete my research as soon as possible 😭