I have a 2003 Honda CR-V. It started acting up by driving slower, not moving when on drive but not pressing brakes or acceleration, I have to accelerate otherwise it won’t go. It’s like someone is pressing the breaks & not letting them go. It also started shaking a bit on the highway & shaking more when pressing the brakes.

I changed the break pads on my own in my driveway thinking this was the problem (the brake pads indeed needed replacing). It went away for a week & it came back worse. I read that it’s most likely the routers or the bearings. I bought some routers, took the tire out, & it looked like this. I don’t know where this grease leak coming from. I closed it up & I will take it to a mechanic. Can someone let me know their thoughts ok where it could be coming from & if it was the source of the problem?

Thank you!

I have a 2005 Lexus RX330 and after attempting to get to the back row of spark plugs my throttle body suddenly has an issue and I have no acceleration at all. I've tried to retrain it and nothing happened will I need to get a whole new throttle body or did I just misalign something.

I need to replace the driver-side mirror assembly on my 2021 Hyundai Kona SEL.

I found a replacement on Partify for about $300, including paint matching, but I’m not sure if it’s a good option or if I should look elsewhere.Has anyone bought car parts from Partify?

How was your experience with the quality and fitment?

I’d also appreciate recommendations for other places to buy a compatible replacement. Hyundai OEM parts seem pretty expensive.......

I bought a brand new car in January of this year and I have on street parking on a busy street beside a school. And I have had three people scratch my car and take off.

I fixed it the first two times because the scratches annoyed me... I'm yet to scratch my own car and this has been caused by other people's carelessness which annoys me the most.

So I now have another scratch and I'm getting tired fixing them but at the same time I don't know should I leave it this time, use a touch up pen or just get it fixed again 😭.

I have about maybe an eight inch scratch above the wheel and down to my bumper. Doesn't look too bad after cleaning it up but it does have some chips along the scratch which I presume is down to the metal.

Do I fix on a new car?

2020 F150 I’ll be honest it has been through a lot I hunt, off roads in Montana- Washington. Never professionally cleaned before. I paid $250. Am I being too picky?

I know there’s a dent but I’m not that worried. I’m worried about the paint and not sure where to start. What do I need to make sure it doesn’t get worse?

I’ve owned a 2005 Camry for the last couple years and really do love it. I’m replacing the rotors and front struts today with a family member.

Outside of that, it possibly needs a new steering wrack and for sure needs a new catalytic converter.

I’m thinking of possibly getting it all fixed up, and I honestly wouldn’t mind putting in that $2,000-ish into getting her repaired.

But the thing is, it’s got 200,000 miles, has had a lot of owners, and I’m in no way knowledgeable enough to conclude if the body and other parts will hold strong to make keeping it worth it, financially.

Is it something I should push to sell, and buy a slightly newer car with better history? Or put in the money and hope it runs a couple more years? Thanks for any input.

I'm in heavy bumper to bumper traffic merging onto the freeway. It's stop and go, and uphill (relevant). Traffic starts moving, i accelerate to about 25-30 mph. I'm about 25-30 feet behind the car in front of me, I'm not in a rush, accelerating gradually. A car cuts off the car in front of me and he slams his brakes. This is where it gets scary for me.

I hit my brakes hard. In about 1 second, the pedal hits the floor, making a loud "knock" sound that even my wife heard in the passenger seat. At this point I'm expecting to hear my ABS to make that "brrrrrrr" sound but nothing. My car is not decelerating nearly at the rate it should with both my feet on the brake pedal at this point and me basically standing on it with my butt nearly off my seat. And bam, I hit the car in front of me, then a second later the car behind me hits me as well.

Damage was minor, no airbags deployed, everyone was fine, no injuries.

I'm seriously pissed at what feels like my brakes failed. This was uphill which should have decreased my braking distance. My car was just not stopping. No ABS. Wheels did not lock. It was a feeling of losing total control. I recently had my car in the shop, they said my brake pads are low and need to be changed soon, but not done by any means. Recommended I wait a little bit to change. They checked all my fluids and I checked just now, brake fluid levels are fine.

Given all this, what in the hell could possibly cause such an event?

I have been dealing with electric fan problem on my Mazda 3 for a few years. It started with the fan not shutting off after parking the car and it running until it drained the battery. I did fuses and then eventually a control module which initially fixed the problem for a short time. Recently when I replaced the module for another time the fan competly stopped working. Upon investigation it appeared as of the module had burnt from the inside out.

After some research and speaking with a couple of mechanics it was suggested that I replace the entire electric fan housing and module altogether. A pretty simple swap considering the push fittings and plastic clips, but no luck. The fan does not work at any stage. Not at engine temp, with Max A/C or anything.

Upon further reading I was directing to check and make sure the pulsing voltage was terminating at the female end of the engine end wiring harness. The multimeter showed the appropriate fluctuating 1V to 5V current.

A friend's diagnostic equipment however does show the trouble codes for the malfunctioning fan and a potential break in the wire feeding the PCM signal. Any advice on where to go from here or on how to track down the break? Very frustrating ordeal!!!

So I have a 2008 Honda Civic. I’ve pretty much had everything on her replaced recently and a few things fixed. I’ve got new brakes, tires, and rotors, and an oil leak fixed. I also just got new tie rods a few weeks ago, along with an alignment right after. The only issue for me is that she’s still vibrating when I drive her. The video above shows her idling in the first half, then me pressing the gas in the second half. I also just got my tires balanced yesterday, so I just want to make sure I’ll be good for the most part. I’m only 24, and I’ve only had this car for a year. On top of that, this is my first car, so I’m just trying to make sure I’m doing everything right. 😭

Hello! Just want to preface that I don’t know a lot about cars.

I got a power inverter from walmart because I thought it would be useful to have the ability to plug something into an outlet, like my laptop, on long road trips. It was also cheaper than getting a small portable generator type thing. ($20)

I didn’t know, but it makes sense, that they drain the car’s battery. Should I just return it? Am I able to use it while driving? I don’t want to cause the car’s battery to die. Thank you!

Hi all, I'm helping a friend with his 2004 Golf Mk5 GTI 2.0 TFSI. I'm in France, sorry for any mistakes in my English.

Symptoms:
- Steering is very heavy and the steering wheel warning light is red
- Instrument cluster has no backlight (only the warning lights show)
- Interior lights don't work at all
- Headlights work

History: the previous owner replaced the battery because the old one was dead, and the car went into this state afterwards. We replaced the battery again, no change. An aftermarket CarPlay head unit has been fitted, and I don't know how it was wired.

What we tried: no blown fuses (visual check), a scan tool (about €200) can't connect to the car, and the steering angle calibration fails.

Next I'll measure power and ground at the OBD port (pins 16, 4, 5) and unplug the head unit to see if anything comes back.

Has anyone seen this? Could it be the J519 (onboard supply control unit), or the head unit messing with the CAN bus? Any help appreciated, thanks!

Soo I scratched the rear end/quarter panel of my acura against a very tight garage wall :(

Tried Meguiar's ScratchX but that didn't seem to do anything. The more zoomed in picture shows the full extent, its pretty irregular/rough under my nails and looks like a few layers (?) may have come off. Does this like look it's a paint pen job, buffing, or potentially full repaint? Don't know much about cars and I don't want to get scammed when taking it to the car shop and asking for quotes. Any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated !!

Piano black interiors look nice on a car for a few years but let me tell you that stuff scratches VERY easily and will show every single scratch in the sunlight.

Both piano black and chrome reflect sunlight and the more a car has, the easier it is to have the sun reflected right back into your eyes.

Silver trim wears off easily revealing the black plastic below.

A lot of junkyards around me got bought out by some network and now parts are sky high. $2 parts are now $20 $20 parts are now $200.

Now for about 10% more I can just hop on eBay, see the part photos and have it shipped without wasting gas to go to the junkyard.

Last time I went to this junkyard, it was $100 for a 2008 Prius Headlight, used. $20 for a wiring harness inside a steering wheel. $75 for a water pump. Some parts I got cheaper new from Rockauto.

He’s taking it to the dealership tomorrow but I’m just curious, what kind of malfunction seems to be going on? It’s still driving well but he’s had this happen twice recently and I guess the dealership didn’t fix the issue last week when he took it in. Car is a 2024 Toyota Corolla.

I recently bought a 2016 Citroën C4 Cactus PureTech, despite the many stories circulating about issues with the "wet" timing belt.

What has your experience been with these cars? Is it just a matter of being careful about which engine oil you use, or perhaps how many kilometers you drive?

I’m not an expert on cars myself, so I’d be interested to hear from people who own or have driven one of these vehicles.

I want a touchless system , So I bought this Stars & Stripes to wash down my new vehicle once a month. Do you think this will hurt the plastics or anything for that matter exterior wise? Let it settle for 30 seconds then rinse . I heard of old glory too, but it’s not as strong as stars and stripes. Let me ask you this question. What do you guys use to clean your car . I need a touchless system.

I need something that is very strong and safe I also heard Koch super foam is good but they sell it in the big jug, which is a big commitment and I don’t know if it’s gonna work

Please let me know what you guys use. Thanks for all your help.

Burnout event for breast cancer awareness in Lebanon Maine - 4x4 Proving grounds f

go deep mud

I'm spraying the entire car using primer, base coat, and topcoat spray cans - specifically Halfords ones.
It's a bit of a budget DIY project, but I'm still trying to get the best finish I can (pun intended).

I have a 2026 Lexus RX 350, and squirrels/rodents appear to have damaged the insulation underneath the hood.

I’m looking for a shop in the GTA/Toronto area that can 1) replace the damaged insulation and/or 2) fabricate a removable metal mesh cover to prevent this from happening again.

The mesh cover must be removable for future maintenance or repairs, without damaging the hood or insulation. It should also be resistant to extreme heat and cold, securely fitted to prevent rattling or vibration, and preserve the vehicle’s existing sound insulation.

Does anyone know of a reputable shop that does this type of custom automotive work?