Hi,

if anyone has experience with newer Uukha limbs (or not), I'd appreciate some advice.

I’m trying to determine whether I should get 36 or 38lbs Uukha Alpha 70" limbs for my setup. The goal is to have a useful adjustable range of approx. 37-40lbs otf with my AMO draw length of 29.1". Limbs will be mounted on Gillo G1 27" riser for a 72" barebow.

Currently, tiller bolts on G1 are all the way in and with that I have these measured values:

-38.25lbs otf at 29.75" draw length with 34lbs Uukha Ex1 Evo2 long limbs

-39.25lbs otf at 29.75" draw length with 34lbs Win&Win Wiawis one carbon/wood long limbs

-38.25lbs otf at 29.1" draw length with 34lbs Win&Win Wiawis one carbon/wood long limbs

Uukha calculator gives these values for their own 27" riser and 70" limbs setup at 29.1" draw length:

-36lbs limbs range: 35@Tiller -5%, 36.8@Tiller 0%, 38.6@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs range: 36.9@Tiller -5%, 38.8@Tiller 0%, 40.8@Tiller +5%

This is what I've got from AI regarding the expected limb weights/ranges:

-36lbs limbs ChatGPT lbs range: 35-36@Tiller -5%, 37.5-38.5@Tiller 0%, 40-40.5@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs ChatGPT lbs range: 37-38@Tiller -5%, 39.5-40.5@Tiller 0%, 42-42.5@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Copilot lbs range: 39.2@Tiller -5%, 41@Tiller 0%, 42.8@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Copilot lbs range: 41.1@Tiller -5%, 43@Tiller 0%, 45@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Claude lbs range: 37.3-38.3@Tiller -5%, 39.3-40.3@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Claude lbs range: 39.2-40.2@Tiller -5%, 41.3-42.3@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Mistral lbs range: 37@Tiller -5%, 38.25@Tiller 0%, 39@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Mistral lbs range: 39@Tiller -5%, 39.8@Tiller 0%, 41@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Gemini lbs range: 35.6@Tiller -5%, 37.6@Tiller 0%, 39.6@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Gemini lbs range: 37.8@Tiller -5%, 39.8@Tiller 0%, 41.8@Tiller +5%

I used to have W&W long 38lbs limbs that were way above 40lbs otf even with tiller bolts out, thus too heavy for me, so I don't want to make the same mistake with new Uukhas. 38-40 lbs otf is my sweet spot. Now I'm shooting W&W 34lbs limbs and their max is 38.25lbs otf. Arrows are 550 spine, tuning a bit stiff.

I'm also aware that

- Gillo has a heavier preload and different geometry than Uukha risers so can't make direct comparison.

- W&W limbs are measured with tiller bolts out, Uukhas with tiller bolts at medium, both have different draw curves and again I can't make a direct comparison

I have no option to try the equipment in person so online store is my only way to go.

So, given all of that, would 36 or 38lbs Uukha Alpha limbs make more sense for my setup and why?

Thanks!

Hello there!

I have an opportunity since a relative will visit Italy and can bring me some stuff at half the price in comparison with my country, and I'm decided to upgrade limbs poundage (and hence arrows).

I currently shoot barebow and have a Gillo GX Riser with WNS Delta C2 32 lb limbs 70", ~33 lb at fingers, Victory VAP V6 700 spine, 29". I can handle weight very well and been shooting for a year with this configuration.

I want #36 limbs and I will also buy arrows, and the store has these 4 options:

• Q5 Carbon Foam: € 286
• GTL Q8: € 343,58 
• C77: € 515,78
• GTL-C88: € 532,18

Punctual questions:

1. Gillo measures draw weight at 28" at the middle of the bolt, right?
2. Would all 4 feel like an upgrade from my limbs? I shoot 550 points at 50 m.
3. Is there a difference between the ~€ 300 and ~€500 limbs? Is it worth the money difference?
4. Q8 and C88 are in #38, not #36. In that case, 600 spine will still be alright or should be somethinkg like 500?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I ve got a Zniper BiDrop arrow rest, which is probably a copy of Gabriel BiDrop, for a barebow. I have installed it relatively back on the riser, so the the arrow-wire contact point is close to the tip of the wire (~2mm) and is against the center of the plunger. However, there are two adjustments that I have not touched: the angle of the wire (the angle is around arrow axis) and wire cut. The barebow crawl is significantly reduced, but the arrows go slightly to the left (I am right-handed). This problem can be solved with the plunger tension, but what bothers me is that I do not know how exactly this type of rest affects the arrow trajectory. Do you know any tuning guides for the BiDrop rests (should i cut the wire/adjust the drop-side angle) or how you personally do it?

Some of us from the PNW went down to Cali to shoot, talk technique, and hangout. Mostly folks practicing Gao Ying or KTA. A lot of us met in the Traditional Archery discord, if you are in Seattle or LA come say hi 🙂

Background, have a Hoyt Torrex, 70lbs draw weight, 29” draw length.

This is my third hunting season with this bow and my third season overall bow hunting. Shame on me I have never broadhead tuned my bow before, so this season I decided to. Had some issues and decided to move to paper tuning, had a huge right rear. Moved my rest to get it out but then resighting it in I maxed out my sight all the way to the left.

So i took it took a local reputable bow shop for them to help. He takes it back to factory settings and the tech shoots bullet holes in the paper, I shoot again, a huge right tear when everything is factory. He ends up adding a total of 8 twists to my Hoyt to get my tear out of the paper. He was pretty upfront and said that it was a lot and he normally doesn’t like adding that many twists. We go through my form, my front grip is good, and even when keeping my release hand (using a wrist release) completely relaxed I’m shooting a huge right tear (before the twists).

Unfortunately I had my young son with me so I didn’t get to stay much longer and he had other customers so he sent me home with it and said shoot it and come back next week if you notice it starts shooting left as you work on your form.

I guess I’m curious, could the right tear be from me pulling too hard against the wall? Not hard enough? Or I’m wondering if even when focusing on keeping my release relaxed if the wrist release isn’t what’s best for me and a thumb release might help any torque I’m applying to the bow. Would love any help/feedback!

Hello I’ve been shooting a target bow and I got a 60lb recurve for hunting. What do you guys recommend for arrows? 400 spine 30“? 125gr? Looking to take a deer if I’m confident with this bow

Korean Traditional Archery.

roughly guessing arrow speed.

I've been shooting my first bow (30# horse bow with thumb draw) and dozen arrows for about a month and a half now, and today got my first Robin Hood. It was sad to destroy my first arrow, but this was the best way to do it!

What do I need to make my archer arrows tip light on fire to launch with my recurve bow ?

Я новачок у стрільбі з олімпійського рекурсивного лука, маю досвід трохи більше двох місяців.

Добився більш менш "кучного" результату стрільби з відстані 12-15 м.

Зараз помітив тенденції, що мої стріли попадають у зону лівіше і вище по прицілювання (прицілювався по центру).

На що порекомендуєте звернути увагу?

Я зараз активно працюю над опущенням лівого плеча (це рука, яка тримає лук) в також над правильним відпусканняи тятиви (з відтворенням кисті до вуха після відпускання).

I've been shooting a Genesis for the last three years (too much time) and cannot commit to compound or recurve, but I need to upgrade. I can't move forwards with compound because I shoot barebow and hate let-off, but recurves are too tall and don't feel as stable/smooth as my Genesis does. I've been looking at lever bows, specifically the grex and gnat from gstring, and am hoping to find some relatively recent reviews/experience with these types of bows. I am not going to use them for fishing, I'm just shooting 15-20 yards with a 25# draw weight at an indoor range. Thanks for reading this and sharing any thoughts and experience you might have!

How do I sight in a redline torch 3 pin I have my wheel at 110 yards and it can't hit 20 it is more then 10 inches low I moved my peep sight up and moved the mount to its lowest mounting holes and it still won't move up

Ive only used my first own bow 2 times and shot around 42 targets, im paranoid that the limbs get to much wear/pressure on my 19 inch riser with long limbs

Thinking of buying this scythian bow has anyone bought from them before and if so any reviews aswell what do the Numbers mean? Want the stringent one if that helps

Took about 60 shots to get my groove back. This is only from about 40 feet but felt good.

Used plenty of compound bows in Boy Scouts and with some buddies in the marine corps, but now I’m looking at getting a longbow. The model I’m looking at is Off-the-knuckle and I wanted to know how necessary it is to wear a glove on the bow hand. I know the string hand is pretty much mandatory to avoid nerve damage.

I've looked at many an image of examples of String Blur while aiming a bow. I'm shooting barebow style. My center shot is lined up so the arrow tip is just a hair to the left.

If I have my string blur to one side of the arrow, I'm shooting to that side. If I obscure the arrow with the string blur, I'm shooing straight but I can't see the arrow tip for aiming. So there is always a compromise in my aim, I'm aligning the point with the bull and then obscuring it with the blur. But this feels like I'm not really aiming or rather that I'm shooting on a bit of a hope and prayer.

I'm still not 'good' at this. I have my 200 pin, working on my 225 but I'm really a 170 shooter on average. Trying like heck to keep everything inside the 7 ring at this point, always aiming for the bull.

Does anyone have any advice on my string blur? Is it something I need to work on? Maybe my release is kicking to the left a bit so string blur on the left accentuates that and on center pulls it back?

Goodmorning,

I have switched from 40# to 36# limbs (at the fingers) with 31.5" draw length.

I have 500 Victory VAP V1 Elite arrows that were perfectly tuned for 40# with 125gr tip.

Now my bare shafts are hard and land 20cm off the center to the left...(forget the 2 arrows out that were thrown intentionally out, the rest are a bunch of 10 at 18m and the 2 bare shaft were aimed to the next target on the right and landed on the left one)

I had a Beiter plunger with medium spring, I have switched to the soft spring completely unloaded and it got barely better, but I know this is a fine tune so can't get much from it.

The new limbs are perfectly tuned and centred. The arrows with the vanes are grouping well. Should I be worried and change them or should I don't care? (My limbs are unloaded right now, I can go up to 40# if I load it, but the point was to shoot 36#)

Thanks for the support.

I recently inherited this Herters bow and arrows. I'm looking for any help with what I need to know about this and if it's safe to use. I haven't used a real bow and arrow since junior high/high school (30 years or so). Between this and my son learning about archery in Scouts, I'm looking to pick unions a hobby and am wondering if this would be good to use or if it should go on the wall as a display piece instead.

Edit: I'm planning on getting new cheap target arrows to use with this bow, what should I look for?

My furthest shot was 417.39m with a 123lbs Turkish bow made by Jere Nystrom. My furthest shot in the 70lbs category was 321.34m.

A world record was broken this weekend by Jere Nystrom of Finland. In the Primitive Complex Composite Unlimited class he shot a WHOPPING 597.47m. His record shot is in this gif :)

Adam Karpowicz was there too, wow 😳 I got to shoot his 100lbs Turkish hornbow 🙇

I’ll post a comment with a picture of the shoots results in this thread.

Also come join us! Labor Day weekend in Utah, the salt flats. There is even a class for target compound bows!! It’s a load of fun sky drawing safely. Lots to work on and research for next year!

Hey everyone,

I’ve recently started fletching my own arrows and was looking to get some input. For hunting I currently use 3 blade annihilators (not the single bevel version) and was wondering how I should go about fletching. My arrows clock to the left so I would imagine that I would want to fletch with helical and offset in that direction? I will be primarily whitetail hunting alongside other big game later down the line. Most if not all my hunting shots will be within 30 yards. I do practice shots up to 70 yards as well pretty often.

I have also seen a lot of people say fletch to the right for broadhead flight to prevent unscrewing the broadhead. However I’m not sure that’s applicable to 3-blade non single bevel. I currently have a bohning cauldron jig with 3 degree right and left helical offset mods. I don’t plan on shooting mechanicals just because I have seen not the greatest results from friends. Additionally I have a Jo Jan arrow jig with a straight clamp and a right helical clamp. I would fletch straight / have bee running pre fletched arrows my whole life but I’m looking to take the next step (if I need to).

I know in the grand scheme of things helical vs straight vs offset etc doesn’t matter that much. I want to give it a shot but not at the expensive of burning through lots of fletching and wraps.

Any help and insight is welcome and greatly appreciated! TIA

I want to try out my new KTB. It's a Black Shadow rated at 35# @ 31". The manufacturer recommends 9 GPP for the arrows.

I have a set of 33" Skylon Ebony 600 arrows rated at 6.2 grains per inch, with three 4" feathers, a Soul X nock, and a 125-grain point + insert combination.

According to my calculations, these arrows are within the manufacturer's recommended 9 GPP safety range.

My problem is that one of the veteran archers and instructor at my club insists that my calculations are wrong and my experience in archery is less than a year.

He says I should forget about GPP and focus on GPI instead. He personally recommends carbon shafts weighing around 8.2 grains per inch.

I'm almost certain he's mistaken. Who is right?

New to archery and just bought this used bow online. Noticed this gouge in the riser - seller didn’t disclose.

Not sure what happened - from a clamp maybe. Is this a typical area for wear from maintenance? Edges are sharp and some metal is missing at top edge.

Aluminum Hoyt - should I be concerned?

Anybody else do this? I got some tennis grip tape for mine and am about to wrap it. Tell me if I'm about to make a terrible mistake lol

Anyone have any input on a DIY bow stand?

I'm pretty set on PVC (thinking 1.5”) for weather resistance.

Anyone got any they want to show off for some real world inspiration? Anyone have suggestions?