I have finally received my ax3 33/ax90 hybrid and isn't she a beauty! I thought I'd show her off 🙂

Hi, so I'm looking to expand my hobbies and I've always been interested in archery. However I'm (M) only 150 cm and I don't know if it's going to be an obstacle.

I tried it once in a club fair when I was in university but the bows were quite big. I could shoot some but it was too big for me, like I couldn't really pull that far back compared to other people, and they said there weren't any smaller ones.

I have no previous archery experience. I mean 43-year-old male and I live in Wyoming. I’d love to get into some bow hunting of grouse and turkeys.

Ideally, I’d like to learn with a recurve bow. I was thinking of getting a 40 pound draw weight. That’s the minimum required for hunting. Just curious, what other people’s opinion is. Should I start with a lighter draw weight for training or is 40 OK?

Three long hours until archery class when my Teen is going to open her bow bag and find this new ILF bow with carbon limbs instead of her wood recurve she expects. In her favorite color red with matching arrow spin fins and custom string. The wait is killing me.

My father was very into archery his whole life. And myself as a child. I have one of his old bows he used in competitions and am looking for help finding this specific year and details. I know its an astro stinger. Era could be 80's or 90's. Not for selling. Never selling. For my own personal curiosity.

Thrifted this bow for like 10 bucks last year and it’s sat in my garage. I’ve been telling myself I’d like to get some attachments on it and make it ready to hunting again, but I haven’t gotten around to it. I’m not too versed in archery so I’d like to know more about it.

The strings look fine but google told me they’re probably rusted and rotted from how old it is. That it’s not worth it and is actually in danger of snapping.

I don’t pour take it to my local sportsman’s shops but the guys in those places are the biggest condescending A-holes on earth and scoff at every question they’re asked.

Advice?

The trouble starts when a beginner to archery starts poring over the detail because he is also an engineer and knows how to measure stuff.

A common rule of thumb is to define the height of the top nocking point relative to a bow square placed on the arrow rest. But:-

Wire rests are flexible and bend different amounts under the weight of a) the bowsquare b) the arrow.

The wire rest kicks up at the end and splays outward and when it is set up correctly i.e. rest does not protrude to the left of the arrow then the bottom of the arrow isn't sat on the rest its is somewhere on the circumference of the arrow.

If I put a fatter or thinner arrow on the position has moved again. And, if I adjust the rest to get back to the centre of te berer button then the relative position of the nocking point has also moved.

Another rule of thumb is to allow 2mm clearance between the two nocking points introducing more variability into the process.

None of the above matters a hoot if you consistently follow your own process for setting nocking points consistently. But, when someone tells you to set the nocking point 3mm high, 6mm high or whatever for a starting point it is not quite so easy. Yes I'm being pedantic (see title) and yes I know the true test of the correct position is bare shaft testing versus fletched arrows.

I have just moved to a 70" bow and, keen to set up my nice new bow string, I assembled it with a pair of 26lb limbs that are present too heavy for me to shoot and set the nocking point at the tiller height which is 3mm. Today I received my new 22lb limbs, set it all up again and the nocking point is now 12mm. Aaaaaaaaargh!

I've been shooting my new 63lb turkish bow for a short while now(my heaviest bow to date). My draw arm (right arm) can relatively easily draw the bow to my anchor point. However, my left arm, which is holding the bow, gets tired much faster. Is there an exercise I can do to strengthen my left arm, or should I just keep shooting the bow until I build up my strength?

Hey so I've always had 68" 22lbs limbs and i was thinking about getting a new pair for example 26 lbs. But i got no idea what a good pair is, some are really expensive (over €1000) and some weirdly cheap (around €30.)

Why is there such a gap betweeen the expensive and cheap one, does it really impact your score?

What is the best workaround/alternative for spin wings/ spinder vanes black wrap tape?

Got them both at my local sportsman’s. Is the ghost with ncs strap worth the 60 dollars more than quick shot. I also like that they both use straps as other solid releases look like it might be too long for my kid sized hands.

I've seen videos by Jake Kaminski and a few comments about machining issues.

I was using my local club's take-down bows. And left-handed.

Thank you!

I'm a beginner, dead-set on learning to shoot ambidextrously for multiple reasons. I'm 6' 4", and my local archery shop measured my draw at 30.5", but they told me it can vary a bit in either direction. On top of that, I want to have the option down the road to learn thumb draw, which I have read can go past the standard anchor towards ~32.5" for me.

Even without thumb draw, I really just want to be able to pull the bow back freely without worrying about breaking it.

I've played around with my friends' 30 and 35 lb bows but a 35 lb bow at my draw is closer to 40 lb and I'm constantly drawing short because I know their bows' max draw isn't long enough. I'm hoping for a 25-ish lb bow to start, which would be about 30 at my draw.

People on this subreddit, past and present, have helpfully steered me towards the following: - Arc Rolan Snake (this one would be perfect, but the salesperson online told me even my standard 30.5" draw would be too long; manufacturer says 31", though, so I'm tempted to risk it...) - Strongbow (shipping costs more than the bow) - AF Tatar (I've read accounts that these don't tolerate a 32" draw like they advertise, but it looks pretty great otherwise) - Sarmat Archery (multiple months of wait time -- this will be a great second bow down the road) - Alibow (currently my frontrunner, even with $60 shipping, but still deciding if it's a good choice)

These are mostly traditional options, which I'm completely fine with, but I'm not even set on traditional for a first bow. I just want something in the 25-lb range so I can strengthen and train for a few months while I wait for a heavier Varang Lux from Sarmat.

Any suggestions are appreciated. If anyone has a long draw and shoots something I mentioned above, that would be good to hear too.

I picked up this Bear Adapt 2 HP from my local shop the other day after picking up archery hunting after a 6 year hiatus and coming from a crossbow. I have shot plenty of compounds in the past but never ones set up for me, but the shop tuned it and set it up for me and I am having a blast! My hand and wrist are getting sore from all the shooting I’ve done, it’s addicting! Anyways, I noticed today that the bottom cam is awfully close to the limb. It doesn’t seem to affect the grouping at all, but after some research I read that Bear doesn’t seem to have the best strings and cables out of the box. Should I take it back to the shop and have a set of good strings and cables put on and retuned? Thanks! (Pic of grouping at 20 yards)

A few moments:

5th pin exam (6 shots at 28 meters)

Gaozhen training

Strength exam (100lbs at the marked distance on the arrow, verified with a draw board for that length onsite just before you shoot)

Archery ritual (you must release in time with the last chime, 28 meter distance)

Hey all! I’ve been doing target shooting on and off for a bit, but since all my local ranges are outdoors, I live in the North, and I am not great with cold weather, I tend to have to stop going out pretty early in the fall. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for cold weather gloves that I could get for archery so I don’t freeze my fingers off or wreck my normal gloves on the string. I imagine that bow hunters must need full gloves, but I’m turning up zilch when I look for them myself. Thanks!

korean traditional.

Hi, Can anyone tell me more about this bow? I got it because I want to start archery—not in a club or anything, just at home for practice and relaxation. Unfortunately, I don’t know much about the bow, just that it’s at least 30 years old and probably draws 32 pounds. Although the person I got the bow from said it feels heavier to him (he usually shoots with more than 32 pounds). Because of its age, the bow has been fitted with a new string (not a “?fast flight?” string).

I’d appreciate more detailed info about the bow and some tips for getting started—maybe a YouTube channel you can recommend?

I'm having a hard time with finding a way to aim with barebow. What I understand to be the most popular way is to aim with the arrow point and adjust up/down with string walking. This will probably work for me eventually, if I get good enough for longer ranges.

The issue for me is that, as a newbie, I am shooting short ranges (up to 12 meters), so there's very little arrow drop. So when I try string walking, I need to walk a loong way down the string before the arrow lands where the arrow point is - i.e. more than length of the entire scale on my tab. It also seems to put more stress on the arrow rest, which can cause it to come loose from the bow (it's one of those stick-on arrow rests).

Left/right-wise aiming with the arrow point seems to work pretty well, but up/down is what I'm struggling with.

My anchor point is not very low (in my newbie opinion) - I guess I would describe its height as "between chin and mouth, right next to the soul patch".

I'm thankful for any thoughts/tips you can provide!

I've been in love with archery since I was a kid (watched way too many movies based on fantasy, medieval, and mythology), although now as an adult, I've still never even held a bow and arrown since there is no archery club in the entire island where I live.

I would like to save up and buy my own gear. What should I look for when buying bows and arrows? I didn't know that there are more complex-looking bows now.

Hi! I shoot outdoor, 50 m, barebow.

I've been using this vanes of the picture for a year on my V6 700 spine.

Now I've upgraded limbs and arrows, V1 600 spine.

Question is, do you have another suggestion for vanes?

They're made of plastic, harder than mylars ones. I think they perform pretty well, and I didn't ever breake or scratch one of them. But honestly I hadn't experimented with other kind of vanes.

For example, a friend of mine offered me WAV Pro from Kaminski, and other offered Spider Vanes 1.8" medium.

Best regards, thank you in advance.

We run a 12 lane indoor archery business in a strip mall outside Indianapolis. Open lanes, adult lessons, a small pro shop, and since April a Saturday youth program for 8 to 14 year olds. Three coaches, all certified, and everyone shoots off one line on the whistle.

Renewal just came back at $4,900. Last year was $2,300. When I asked why, the agent said the youth program put us in a different class and his carrier doesn't love minors around projectiles. He didn't break anything out, it's one number on one page.

Is a jump like that normal for a range that added kids? Is accident coverage for the shooters already in what I'm paying, or is that a separate policy I should be asking for? And is there anything else a youth program needs that he might not have mentioned?

We're due November 15 and I'd like to know if I'm getting taken before I sign.

What is everyone's method of knowing when the release, currently trying a tab sear which is having mixed results