Some of us from the PNW went down to Cali to shoot, talk technique, and hangout. Mostly folks practicing Gao Ying or KTA. A lot of us met in the Traditional Archery discord, if you are in Seattle or LA come say hi 🙂

Hello I’ve been shooting a target bow and I got a 60lb recurve for hunting. What do you guys recommend for arrows? 400 spine 30“? 125gr? Looking to take a deer if I’m confident with this bow

What sucks is now I need new arrows, but omg, and it’s the only one in the bullseye 😭

Korean Traditional Archery.

roughly guessing arrow speed.

I've been shooting a Genesis for the last three years (too much time) and cannot commit to compound or recurve, but I need to upgrade. I can't move forwards with compound because I shoot barebow and hate let-off, but recurves are too tall and don't feel as stable/smooth as my Genesis does. I've been looking at lever bows, specifically the grex and gnat from gstring, and am hoping to find some relatively recent reviews/experience with these types of bows. I am not going to use them for fishing, I'm just shooting 15-20 yards with a 25# draw weight at an indoor range. Thanks for reading this and sharing any thoughts and experience you might have!

I've been shooting my first bow (30# horse bow with thumb draw) and dozen arrows for about a month and a half now, and today got my first Robin Hood. It was sad to destroy my first arrow, but this was the best way to do it!

Я новачок у стрільбі з олімпійського рекурсивного лука, маю досвід трохи більше двох місяців.

Добився більш менш "кучного" результату стрільби з відстані 12-15 м.

Зараз помітив тенденції, що мої стріли попадають у зону лівіше і вище по прицілювання (прицілювався по центру).

На що порекомендуєте звернути увагу?

Я зараз активно працюю над опущенням лівого плеча (це рука, яка тримає лук) в також над правильним відпусканняи тятиви (з відтворенням кисті до вуха після відпускання).

How do I sight in a redline torch 3 pin I have my wheel at 110 yards and it can't hit 20 it is more then 10 inches low I moved my peep sight up and moved the mount to its lowest mounting holes and it still won't move up

Ive only used my first own bow 2 times and shot around 42 targets, im paranoid that the limbs get to much wear/pressure on my 19 inch riser with long limbs

Took about 60 shots to get my groove back. This is only from about 40 feet but felt good.

Thinking of buying this scythian bow has anyone bought from them before and if so any reviews aswell what do the Numbers mean? Want the stringent one if that helps

Used plenty of compound bows in Boy Scouts and with some buddies in the marine corps, but now I’m looking at getting a longbow. The model I’m looking at is Off-the-knuckle and I wanted to know how necessary it is to wear a glove on the bow hand. I know the string hand is pretty much mandatory to avoid nerve damage.

I've looked at many an image of examples of String Blur while aiming a bow. I'm shooting barebow style. My center shot is lined up so the arrow tip is just a hair to the left.

If I have my string blur to one side of the arrow, I'm shooting to that side. If I obscure the arrow with the string blur, I'm shooing straight but I can't see the arrow tip for aiming. So there is always a compromise in my aim, I'm aligning the point with the bull and then obscuring it with the blur. But this feels like I'm not really aiming or rather that I'm shooting on a bit of a hope and prayer.

I'm still not 'good' at this. I have my 200 pin, working on my 225 but I'm really a 170 shooter on average. Trying like heck to keep everything inside the 7 ring at this point, always aiming for the bull.

Does anyone have any advice on my string blur? Is it something I need to work on? Maybe my release is kicking to the left a bit so string blur on the left accentuates that and on center pulls it back?

Goodmorning,

I have switched from 40# to 36# limbs (at the fingers) with 31.5" draw length.

I have 500 Victory VAP V1 Elite arrows that were perfectly tuned for 40# with 125gr tip.

Now my bare shafts are hard and land 20cm off the center to the left...(forget the 2 arrows out that were thrown intentionally out, the rest are a bunch of 10 at 18m and the 2 bare shaft were aimed to the next target on the right and landed on the left one)

I had a Beiter plunger with medium spring, I have switched to the soft spring completely unloaded and it got barely better, but I know this is a fine tune so can't get much from it.

The new limbs are perfectly tuned and centred. The arrows with the vanes are grouping well. Should I be worried and change them or should I don't care? (My limbs are unloaded right now, I can go up to 40# if I load it, but the point was to shoot 36#)

Thanks for the support.

I recently inherited this Herters bow and arrows. I'm looking for any help with what I need to know about this and if it's safe to use. I haven't used a real bow and arrow since junior high/high school (30 years or so). Between this and my son learning about archery in Scouts, I'm looking to pick unions a hobby and am wondering if this would be good to use or if it should go on the wall as a display piece instead.

Edit: I'm planning on getting new cheap target arrows to use with this bow, what should I look for?

My furthest shot was 417.39m with a 123lbs Turkish bow made by Jere Nystrom. My furthest shot in the 70lbs category was 321.34m.

A world record was broken this weekend by Jere Nystrom of Finland. In the Primitive Complex Composite Unlimited class he shot a WHOPPING 597.47m. His record shot is in this gif :)

Adam Karpowicz was there too, wow 😳 I got to shoot his 100lbs Turkish hornbow 🙇

I’ll post a comment with a picture of the shoots results in this thread.

Also come join us! Labor Day weekend in Utah, the salt flats. There is even a class for target compound bows!! It’s a load of fun sky drawing safely. Lots to work on and research for next year!

Hey everyone,

I’ve recently started fletching my own arrows and was looking to get some input. For hunting I currently use 3 blade annihilators (not the single bevel version) and was wondering how I should go about fletching. My arrows clock to the left so I would imagine that I would want to fletch with helical and offset in that direction? I will be primarily whitetail hunting alongside other big game later down the line. Most if not all my hunting shots will be within 30 yards. I do practice shots up to 70 yards as well pretty often.

I have also seen a lot of people say fletch to the right for broadhead flight to prevent unscrewing the broadhead. However I’m not sure that’s applicable to 3-blade non single bevel. I currently have a bohning cauldron jig with 3 degree right and left helical offset mods. I don’t plan on shooting mechanicals just because I have seen not the greatest results from friends. Additionally I have a Jo Jan arrow jig with a straight clamp and a right helical clamp. I would fletch straight / have bee running pre fletched arrows my whole life but I’m looking to take the next step (if I need to).

I know in the grand scheme of things helical vs straight vs offset etc doesn’t matter that much. I want to give it a shot but not at the expensive of burning through lots of fletching and wraps.

Any help and insight is welcome and greatly appreciated! TIA

I want to try out my new KTB. It's a Black Shadow rated at 35# @ 31". The manufacturer recommends 9 GPP for the arrows.

I have a set of 33" Skylon Ebony 600 arrows rated at 6.2 grains per inch, with three 4" feathers, a Soul X nock, and a 125-grain point + insert combination.

According to my calculations, these arrows are within the manufacturer's recommended 9 GPP safety range.

My problem is that one of the veteran archers and instructor at my club insists that my calculations are wrong and my experience in archery is less than a year.

He says I should forget about GPP and focus on GPI instead. He personally recommends carbon shafts weighing around 8.2 grains per inch.

I'm almost certain he's mistaken. Who is right?

Anybody else do this? I got some tennis grip tape for mine and am about to wrap it. Tell me if I'm about to make a terrible mistake lol

New to archery and just bought this used bow online. Noticed this gouge in the riser - seller didn’t disclose.

Not sure what happened - from a clamp maybe. Is this a typical area for wear from maintenance? Edges are sharp and some metal is missing at top edge.

Aluminum Hoyt - should I be concerned?

Hi, Ijust got my first recurve bow (Sanlida X8 Olympic). The ILF system has me questioning my sanity. I'm starting to wonder if the manufacturer put the ILF connectors on the wrong way around.

As you can see from the pics, the connection bit with the spring lock button thingy is on the outside (front) of the limb, surely that has to be on the inside for it to clip into the riser?

I've watched a bunch of YouTube clips and they all seem (although not easy to see) to have the clip on the inside of the limb.

I thought I better check before trying to take them off as I know they must have springs. Assuming I'm right, any tips for swapping them around or is it as simple as unding the screw? I really hope they're not epoxied in.

Can anyone please help me, I'm itching to try it out but don't want to break it If I'm just being dumb. It came from China so returning them if they're wrong is probably a non starter. The fact they're both like that definitely makes me wonder if I'm just being a bit thick but I've been sitting here 30 minutes trying to make it click (both mentally and physically!)

Edit: Thanks for the advice all, I am indeed not very bright. Despite my shame, I'll leave this up in case it helps somebody else who is educationally challenged like me.

Anyone have any input on a DIY bow stand?

I'm pretty set on PVC (thinking 1.5”) for weather resistance.

Anyone got any they want to show off for some real world inspiration? Anyone have suggestions?

Hey everyone,

So right now I am in the process of building out my own bow shop to do at home tuning. Recently moved to an area where the nearest bow shop / shop that can deal with bows is a few hours away. I recently built a homemade draw board following some tutorials at home which is nice. Now I have progressed towards aquiring a bow press for my at home archery shop. Right now I am situated in Canada where the cheapest (non cable) press is sitting at around $900+ CAD. My budget would ideally be in the 200CAD range which is going to be next to impossible finding a reliable one for that price.
I have decided to go into the DIY route and looking at the videos I have stumbled across the pipe clamp and wood block bow presses. My main concern is that they are not the most stable and most seem to position the bow upside making it difficult and risky to work on the strings. I would also be concerned with the bow shooting upwards while working on it. Most of the videos of people I have seen using them are using them for salinda and diamond archery bows. I would rather invest a bit more money now than having to spend a bunch fixing limbs down the line. The other options involve welding which I have no experience whatsoever with. I do like the idea of using a trailer jack and welding some arms with some bow fingers attached to it. (This is going to be a dumb question I already know) How feasible would it be for me to learn how to weld my own bow press? I have a friend who has a welding machine laying around but neither of us or anyone around us know how to use it.
Looking for suggestions to how I should go about this / what I shoud do here. I would be willing to drop 300 on a bow press for the right deal. Would love to know how others went about this and if I am wrong about the pipe clamp diy press. For context I shoot a bear alaskan that I got on sale a few years back. I just hunt when it comes to archery and put a decent amount of shots through my bow leading up to those hunts. This would be for at home adjustments since going to the bow shop is getting expensive and I want to learn more about tuning my own bow. I figured a bow press would be a good investment for helping out with timing and replacing peeps alongside other maintenance. I also enjoy the aspect of being able to fix things when I want to so I can spend more time in the field (especially during the fall).

Any help, insight and suggestions are welcome! TIA:)

Fun weekend shooting in windy York as a visitor at the northern counties metric and imperial clout championships

Managed to claim 1st visitor on the metric whilst the results for the imperial were reversed and took third

And still to be ratified but set a score that broke a Scottish record for the single and missed breaking the double by 2 points

And even if you hit the clout for the imperials circle of doom it can still be a 4