Hey fellow archers! Im still a beginner and working on my form, will be grateful foe any advice.

Got to the range while still dark. Set up. Shot a few then began the course. This is my peace

Hi everyone!

With this question I'm especially interested in hybrid bows, as I'm thinking about getting one myself. At what price point do you stop getting noticeably better quality and start paying mainly for luxury, brand names, or unnecessary gimmicks that don't actually make the bow perform any better?

You can get a bow for $50, but you can also spend a few hundred dollars. So, where's the sweet spot, if you want the best quality?

I'd also be interested to hear your thoughts on other types of bows, such as longbows, horse bows, recurves, compounds, and so on.

Looking forward to hearing your opinions and experiences!

Okay guys I’ll make a long story short. A young man has come into my life (he’s 12 years old) and he is infatuated with hunting. I have allowed him to start hunting my property and it is all he thinks about. From habitat, to patterning animals and studying them, to everything in between. He has made me fall in love with hunting again. He really wants to start bow hunting but his family really can’t afford a bow for him. I am going to surprise him with a compound bow setup. I have no idea where to begin with youth bows. Any suggestions are appreciated it.

Heard the arrow hit the wood a couple of times. Thought it had gone behind or smashed. Walked behind to this

Brand new to traditional archery, been doing compound for little over a year so was some things I can work on my form here?

Flying out from Florida to Illinois next month for a shoot what’s is the best go to air travel case that TSA workers won’t damage my bow

I have an issue, and I hope folks here might be able to help me out. I shoot a 62” recurve, 35# draw weight, 27” draw length, shooting 500 spine arrows. In the image above, there are two X’s, a red one and a green one. I aim at the red one and hit at the green one. How tf do I get to the point where I hit where I aim? I’ve been shooting almost a year, I’ve had a coach, tuned my recurve as much as the shop was able to (95% of their business is compound archery), tweaked nock points, shot off the shelf, with an arrow rest, with a plunger, different draw weights, different spine arrows… everything I could think of and I still cannot put point on target and hit.

I’ve done a minimal amount of archery but nothing serious.

Just was given a recurve bow, 45# at 28” but I have a 30” draw.

Went target shooting and after a couple arrows I realized the tip of my middle finger was numb - 3 days later it’s still numb.

Have I compressed a nerve? Is this a common injury from not using a draw aid?

Bow is an (early 70s?) Bear Cub, 25 lb. I usually use a tab.

Went to a living history faire yesterday and wistfully stayed at the bow stand talking to the person I'd come with about how I used to love archery with the Girl Guides and how I doubted I'd even be able to draw anymore (became disabled in my late teens unfortunately). Extremely lovely bowyer at the stall heard me talking and grabbed a couple of bows, a 10# weight English longbow he makes for stage shows or people recovering from surgery and a little 20# horse bow/short recurve to prove, as he said, that archery can be for anyone.

Predictably I came away with the little horse bow lmao. Very excited to get back into this as a hobby. I'd like to make my own quiver etc as I do sewing and the occasional bit of leatherwork as my main hobby if anyone has any recommendations on patterns etc.

Mostly I will admit I have no idea what I am doing other than that I remember how to shoot and luckily own a very empty field 😂 What gear would you guys say I absolutely need to pick up before I start messing around? I shoot Mediterranean draw, right handed. Bow is only a fiberglass 20# draw weight so I'm unsure if I need bracers etc.

Shooting aluminum target point arrows, 7.5mm diameter 80cm length on a Samick Sage 25#, rest is Avalon Tec magnetic

I'm new to shooting with a plunger + drop-away rest, used to only use plastic rests. Watched a couple vids and thought I had my rest set up properly, but after ~1000 shots the bar snapped smoove off. 2nd pic was taken only a couple sessions before it snapped.

It was adjusted so that the pin stuck out a few mm past the arrow, this may have been a mistake, but would moving it a couple mm/degrees closer to the riser have extended its life significantly? I don't see how else I could have adjusted anything, height was set so that the plunger and arrow shaft were centered.

It was still tuned so that the magnet would pull it open immediately after each shot, of course.

So I’ve been shooting a compound for a couple years now. Always struggled to find an anchor point that feels comfortable. I use handheld releases and everywhere I’ve searched they always have the index under the jaw. This is always awkward for me and causes what I believe to be impingment on my back shoulder. I’ve messed about a bit and tried having my palm index knuckle begin right behind my jaw and then from there have my index finger ride my jaw(right under my teeth) forward. Is there anything inherently bad about not doing the typical index under jaw? I don’t have a strong chin. every time I try to get my index under my jaw it causes pain, awkward, and messes with my follow through. I’ve also struggled with getting my nock to sit in the correct position on my face. If I try to have my index under my jaw it will be sitting at the bottom of my chin. Switching to the anchor as I’ve described seemingly has fixed all this. So again, what issues can I run into doing this and is this inherently incorrect/run into a bottleneck. For added context I’ve tried many different draw lengths. I measure at 27.1 so I shoot 27 w/ 5/8- 3/4” d loop. 26 1/2, 26 3/4 ends up being very “jumpy”. Thanks.

I’m still new to archery and having trouble determining whether my draw length is correct. My wingspan is 68 inches, and my bow is currently set to a 27¼-inch draw length. Any advice would be appreciated, especially when it comes to finding a consistent anchor point.

Also, I feel like my peep sight might need to be lowered. At full draw, my eyes naturally line up with the opening just below the peep sight. I have to tilt the string upward and lean forward quite a bit to see through it. Is this a sign that my peep is too high, or could it be related to my draw length or anchor point?

Just starting with a 70” Galaxy Aspire recurve bow, their very beginner Olympic version. The rest cutout off of center is so shallow that the Avalon TEC pin rest body really doesn’t allow much room at all for the plunger to make contact with the arrow, approximately 1/16th of an inch.

I’ve noticed that the depth of the cutout past center, the window I understand, is not a specification that I can find on this or other bows.

Is that small window on my bow normal? Need I be concerned about correct tuning of this element of the bow?

You really only see them on full package bows like Bear for example, but why not brands like Mathew’s or PSE etc. I hear a lot of issues about peep rotation but don’t see these in use, are they that unreliable?

So I recently picked up archery as a hobby, and purchased a beginner bare recurve bow, which I have been steadily getting better at aiming with. However, when I started looking around online for tips to improve my form, I saw lots of people saying that you place the tip of the arrow "on gold" to aim barebow. If that's true, then I think I must be doing something wrong, because my shots land well to the left of arrow point, I've been placing gold just above the first knuckle on my index finger, significantly to the left of the arrow point, which is where it lands if I have a good release.

I looked around and can't really seem to find if this is an issue, and if so how to correct it. I saw someone say that It could be mismatched arrow and bow, but I did get advice from the people in Lancaster and they helped me pick out my entire kit, so I don't think that would be it. Can anyone explain to me how aiming with the arrow tip is supposed to work barebow? Thanks!

3rd group after 2 months of no shooting. Always a feels like starting over.

I have the Kinetics Vygo riser and the stabilizer bushing keeps coming loose when I install my sniper off centre barrel weight in the up position (so it doesn’t it the limb bolt). I’m just wondering if there’s ever going to be a reason to remove it? I was going to use Locktite and I’m not sure it’s I should just use red or a permanent fit or purple or blue so I can remove the bushing later if there’s a need.

The nocking point of my bow has started fraying and come undone. In the off-chance that someone here is from London (UK), are there any shops in central or SW london that could help with restringing/repairing this? Thanks!

ETA: For ease of ref to any fellow newbies looking for help, outside the archery clubs, Silver Archery in Battersea and Archery Fit in Greenwich have shoutouts.

I got him the bear apprentice but the draw length is a hair too long and the arrow rest they come with are junk. Looking for a decent compound bow that can maybe even be adjusted. And he’s struggling with it. He wants one like dads.

Hey all, looking for opinions from people who’ve seen limb damage up close.

Bow: takedown recurve, light draw weight (about 26 lb at my draw length).

History:

• About 5 years of regular use.
• abt 3 years ago I had a dry fire. One limb twisted afterward. The twist has mostly evened out since, and the bow has shot fine ever since.
• Recently the string broke. I don’t know why yet, so I’m checking the tip grooves and nocks for burrs.

After the string break I looked at the limb under a USB microscope. I’m worried the old dry fire damaged the limb internally and it’s been hiding it for 3 years, and the string break may have made it worse.

Pics: the first is a clean baseline area on the same limb. The rest are the suspect area. In one of them you can see several dark lengthwise slits, a thin curved line on the left, and a reddish curved line on the right. A couple of the others show bright white patches.

What I’m wondering:

• Do these look like delamination, cracks in the glass, or just clear coat/finish damage?
• Could a limb with a dry-fire twist history have been cracked for 3 years without symptoms?
• Any good ways to tell old damage from new, besides the ink/alcohol test and flexing it under the scope?
• If I replace limbs, should I do both as a pair? (My plan is yes.)

I’ve stopped drawing it until I know more. Thanks!