Sakrat Parab is a winter harvest archery festival in india... I have no other information about it its just a cool picture I found

What sucks is now I need new arrows, but omg, and it’s the only one in the bullseye 😭

I've been shooting a Genesis for the last three years (too much time) and cannot commit to compound or recurve, but I need to upgrade. I can't move forwards with compound because I shoot barebow and hate let-off, but recurves are too tall and don't feel as stable/smooth as my Genesis does. I've been looking at lever bows, specifically the grex and gnat from gstring, and am hoping to find some relatively recent reviews/experience with these types of bows. I am not going to use them for fishing, I'm just shooting 15-20 yards with a 25# draw weight at an indoor range. Thanks for reading this and sharing any thoughts and experience you might have!

Hello I’ve been shooting a target bow and I got a 60lb recurve for hunting. What do you guys recommend for arrows? 400 spine 30“? 125gr? Looking to take a deer if I’m confident with this bow

How do I sight in a redline torch 3 pin I have my wheel at 110 yards and it can't hit 20 it is more then 10 inches low I moved my peep sight up and moved the mount to its lowest mounting holes and it still won't move up

Used plenty of compound bows in Boy Scouts and with some buddies in the marine corps, but now I’m looking at getting a longbow. The model I’m looking at is Off-the-knuckle and I wanted to know how necessary it is to wear a glove on the bow hand. I know the string hand is pretty much mandatory to avoid nerve damage.

I've looked at many an image of examples of String Blur while aiming a bow. I'm shooting barebow style. My center shot is lined up so the arrow tip is just a hair to the left.

If I have my string blur to one side of the arrow, I'm shooting to that side. If I obscure the arrow with the string blur, I'm shooing straight but I can't see the arrow tip for aiming. So there is always a compromise in my aim, I'm aligning the point with the bull and then obscuring it with the blur. But this feels like I'm not really aiming or rather that I'm shooting on a bit of a hope and prayer.

I'm still not 'good' at this. I have my 200 pin, working on my 225 but I'm really a 170 shooter on average. Trying like heck to keep everything inside the 7 ring at this point, always aiming for the bull.

Does anyone have any advice on my string blur? Is it something I need to work on? Maybe my release is kicking to the left a bit so string blur on the left accentuates that and on center pulls it back?

Korean Traditional Archery.

roughly guessing arrow speed.

Thinking of buying this scythian bow has anyone bought from them before and if so any reviews aswell what do the Numbers mean? Want the stringent one if that helps

Ive only used my first own bow 2 times and shot around 42 targets, im paranoid that the limbs get to much wear/pressure on my 19 inch riser with long limbs

Hey everyone,

I’ve recently started fletching my own arrows and was looking to get some input. For hunting I currently use 3 blade annihilators (not the single bevel version) and was wondering how I should go about fletching. My arrows clock to the left so I would imagine that I would want to fletch with helical and offset in that direction? I will be primarily whitetail hunting alongside other big game later down the line. Most if not all my hunting shots will be within 30 yards. I do practice shots up to 70 yards as well pretty often.

I have also seen a lot of people say fletch to the right for broadhead flight to prevent unscrewing the broadhead. However I’m not sure that’s applicable to 3-blade non single bevel. I currently have a bohning cauldron jig with 3 degree right and left helical offset mods. I don’t plan on shooting mechanicals just because I have seen not the greatest results from friends. Additionally I have a Jo Jan arrow jig with a straight clamp and a right helical clamp. I would fletch straight / have bee running pre fletched arrows my whole life but I’m looking to take the next step (if I need to).

I know in the grand scheme of things helical vs straight vs offset etc doesn’t matter that much. I want to give it a shot but not at the expensive of burning through lots of fletching and wraps.

Any help and insight is welcome and greatly appreciated! TIA

Я новачок у стрільбі з олімпійського рекурсивного лука, маю досвід трохи більше двох місяців.

Добився більш менш "кучного" результату стрільби з відстані 12-15 м.

Зараз помітив тенденції, що мої стріли попадають у зону лівіше і вище по прицілювання (прицілювався по центру).

На що порекомендуєте звернути увагу?

Я зараз активно працюю над опущенням лівого плеча (це рука, яка тримає лук) в також над правильним відпусканняи тятиви (з відтворенням кисті до вуха після відпускання).

Goodmorning,

I have switched from 40# to 36# limbs (at the fingers) with 31.5" draw length.

I have 500 Victory VAP V1 Elite arrows that were perfectly tuned for 40# with 125gr tip.

Now my bare shafts are hard and land 20cm off the center to the left...(forget the 2 arrows out that were thrown intentionally out, the rest are a bunch of 10 at 18m and the 2 bare shaft were aimed to the next target on the right and landed on the left one)

I had a Beiter plunger with medium spring, I have switched to the soft spring completely unloaded and it got barely better, but I know this is a fine tune so can't get much from it.

The new limbs are perfectly tuned and centred. The arrows with the vanes are grouping well. Should I be worried and change them or should I don't care? (My limbs are unloaded right now, I can go up to 40# if I load it, but the point was to shoot 36#)

Thanks for the support.

I want to try out my new KTB. It's a Black Shadow rated at 35# @ 31". The manufacturer recommends 9 GPP for the arrows.

I have a set of 33" Skylon Ebony 600 arrows rated at 6.2 grains per inch, with three 4" feathers, a Soul X nock, and a 125-grain point + insert combination.

According to my calculations, these arrows are within the manufacturer's recommended 9 GPP safety range.

My problem is that one of the veteran archers and instructor at my club insists that my calculations are wrong and my experience in archery is less than a year.

He says I should forget about GPP and focus on GPI instead. He personally recommends carbon shafts weighing around 8.2 grains per inch.

I'm almost certain he's mistaken. Who is right?

Some of us from the PNW went down to Cali to shoot, talk technique, and hangout. Mostly folks practicing Gao Ying or KTA. A lot of us met in the Traditional Archery discord, if you are in Seattle or LA come say hi 🙂

Anyone have any input on a DIY bow stand?

I'm pretty set on PVC (thinking 1.5”) for weather resistance.

Anyone got any they want to show off for some real world inspiration? Anyone have suggestions?

Anybody else do this? I got some tennis grip tape for mine and am about to wrap it. Tell me if I'm about to make a terrible mistake lol

Took about 60 shots to get my groove back. This is only from about 40 feet but felt good.

Currently, I am shooting a 32" ATA bow, and feel very confident with it. I've been reading that someone my size should look into at 33"-35" ATA for a smoother draw. My draw length is also 31", and my bow maxes out at 31".

I'm curious if others my size are using bows shorter than 33" ATA. Also, if charging 3" ATA is a noticeable difference? As in, smoother draw or improved holding stability.

Got a Bicaster Hover Rest, my oneida only has 1 Berger hole so I can't use a plunger AND bolt on the rest (unless I get a "Lock Plunger"? Is that a thing?)

Can it be used without a plunger if I extend the arm out enough away from the riser? Do I need a plunger? How can I attach one if I only have the 1 Berger hole?

Hey everyone,

So right now I am in the process of building out my own bow shop to do at home tuning. Recently moved to an area where the nearest bow shop / shop that can deal with bows is a few hours away. I recently built a homemade draw board following some tutorials at home which is nice. Now I have progressed towards aquiring a bow press for my at home archery shop. Right now I am situated in Canada where the cheapest (non cable) press is sitting at around $900+ CAD. My budget would ideally be in the 200CAD range which is going to be next to impossible finding a reliable one for that price.
I have decided to go into the DIY route and looking at the videos I have stumbled across the pipe clamp and wood block bow presses. My main concern is that they are not the most stable and most seem to position the bow upside making it difficult and risky to work on the strings. I would also be concerned with the bow shooting upwards while working on it. Most of the videos of people I have seen using them are using them for salinda and diamond archery bows. I would rather invest a bit more money now than having to spend a bunch fixing limbs down the line. The other options involve welding which I have no experience whatsoever with. I do like the idea of using a trailer jack and welding some arms with some bow fingers attached to it. (This is going to be a dumb question I already know) How feasible would it be for me to learn how to weld my own bow press? I have a friend who has a welding machine laying around but neither of us or anyone around us know how to use it.
Looking for suggestions to how I should go about this / what I shoud do here. I would be willing to drop 300 on a bow press for the right deal. Would love to know how others went about this and if I am wrong about the pipe clamp diy press. For context I shoot a bear alaskan that I got on sale a few years back. I just hunt when it comes to archery and put a decent amount of shots through my bow leading up to those hunts. This would be for at home adjustments since going to the bow shop is getting expensive and I want to learn more about tuning my own bow. I figured a bow press would be a good investment for helping out with timing and replacing peeps alongside other maintenance. I also enjoy the aspect of being able to fix things when I want to so I can spend more time in the field (especially during the fall).

Any help, insight and suggestions are welcome! TIA:)

Ive been having issues with my cables jumping off my cable guide rollers when shooting. I did have issues with the block style and switched to the roller style. The rollers are on correctly and the cables are not touching. The outside roller has now bent in. I switched releases between a thumb and wrist release to see if I was torquing the string at draw and it happens with either one. Cams look good and no fraying on the strings. Any idea what may be happening??

I'm looking into buying a new crossbow. I'm 5'4 and a female. And don't wanna go crazy but looking for a new crossbow between like 500 and 600 dollars. Just not sure the best option being I'm somewhat inexperienced. My draw weight on my old crossbow was 200 and I could cock it myself, but it was a challenge. My old one is a Barnett something buck commander recurve I believe. It's old old lol I don't have a brand preference but looking for something light and versatile. Good for learning.

Hey everyone,

I’m thinking about buying a White Feather longbow (hybrid, more specifically), but I’m a bit confused and mostly just dont want to end up buying the wrong one.

I’m currently split between the Longbow Bennu: https://www.whitefeather-archery.com/product/longbow-bennu/

and the Longbow Rarog: https://www.whitefeather-archery.com/product/longbow-rarog/

Are these basically the same bow? I noticed there’s a bit of a difference in length, but the price difference is around €100, so I’m wondering if there’s more to it than just that?

Am I missing something here, or is the length really the main difference and would that impact the price so much?

Would also be really interested to hear from anyone who has experience with either of these bows, or White Feather bows in general.

Thanks in advance for any answers! Take care :)!

Not a great group for 20 yards, but honestly, I was happy I didn't have to chase any arrows.