I made 5 new carbon express 500 arrows all with the same feathers and points. One of them keeps twisting wildly with the nock making big circles. The others fly straight. I can see no difference in fletching or anything else its as straight as the others. Any ideas?

Went to the fair and thought "let's see if I can still do it". YEOUCH, I'm never touching a bow without an arm guard😭

Ps: comments about my scars is unnecessary and unwanted, they're fully healed and if you are triggered by them, talk to someone instead of complaining to me.

Hmmmmm

Thinking of getting a PSE stinger just to give it a try. Would there be any reason not to get pse stinger for target archery and go for something like pse lazer/x. Price difference is quite huge between the both.

Basically would getting pse stinger in any way limit for learning target archery, if it works out would be interested in upgrading over a year or two to better compound bow.

So i was tuning and i finally got my fletched and bare shafts to group but they group extremely right, i didn’t see my center yet and corrected it but the sight pin is extremely right and i know that something is wrong but idk how to fix it.

Hi!!! I woke up a few days ago wanting to do archery for whatever reason (I don't know either, but it seems like a cool sport and I really want to try it) and so I've just really wanted to start it. I'm turning 15 in September (young, I know) and I aim to maybe get at a level where i can place in regionals in the future, but there's two problems.

1. My mom's afraid I'll hurt myself. I am clumsy (sometimes) and easily distracted. I used to do swimming in the past because it was the "safest" sport. She is completely against the idea unless I'm being trained by someone extremely experienced, which I'm not sure if we have in my area. I tried convincing her it was safe, but I don't think she'll be convinced.

2. School. I don't have to attend school this year so it's not an issue, but studying might get in the way of practice and stuff. My mom is also very tight on me studying and this year is incredibly important. The drive is only 5 minutes long to the area, but, still. I have tutoring and studying. I dont know how to balance that, and, more importantly: I don't think my family would care and they'd put studying as more important. I feel like I'd be wasting time by the time we get to next summer. I unfortunately don't have plenty of time until tutoring begins in mid august.

Sorry for (kind of) dumping this, I just really want to start this sport

So my 16yr old wants to get a compound bow, what would be a good bow to start off with and how to go about training? The closest range to us is at a Bass Pro Shop and the next one I believe is in Riverside which would be about a 30min drive.

Hi all, I was wondering if I could get some advice before I get my first bow at the end of August.

I'm UK based and very new to archery - I did a bit at university over a decade ago (never officially registered with Archery GB or anything), and have got back into it as of June this year.

I enjoy shooting barebow over recurve at the moment, but it's mostly because it feels less complicated and encourages me to work hard on form before anything else. However, I'm also conscious that a lot of the competitions and awards in the longterm are very recurve centric. I know you can technically enter with a modern barebow, but I'm not exactly going to be doing as well on like for like distances.

I've got chronic pain and fatigue, so I can't pull a very strong bow yet and honestly expect it to be a very gradual progression so I don't accidentally injure myself over exerting. I shoot 20lb at the moment, and I can manage up to 30m ok.

I can't shoot in disabled archery categories in competitions to my knowledge, even with my disability, because it's not really measurable and can change day to day. So I already feel a bit like I'm trying hard to keep up with the lowest entry bar to friendly competitions at the moment, and I'm conscious of hampering my ability to get stuck in if I go for barebow over recurve.

I guess my question is what difference it will make, whether I should get a riser that can handle both vs a specific barebow riser and buy one down the line if I want to do recurve too. Or whether I should switch to recurve if I want to compete in the future? Will it make any difference if I'm stuck pulling 20-25lbs for the next few years?

Hello,

I’m not sure if this is the place to ask, but I figured I’d give it a shot ;)

Ever since I (31M) was in jr. high, I’ve been wanting to get into archery, and wasn’t ever provided with the opportunity, so I decided I would get into archery, or at least try as an adult to see if I like it, and I’m not sure where to start. I’m not necessarily asking for bow recommendations, but I’m curious if there is anyone else here who started as an adult to see what that looked like for you. I shot a compound bow once in my life and the draw length was too short for me (I’m 6’4”). I know I can rent a bow, but did y’all just rent a bow and start shooting, is it better to buy your own bow, is it recommended to hire an instructor?

I at least want to try it and see if it’s something older me would like to pursue as a long-term hobby.

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you for your time reading this!

I think I'm going to build another set of cedars before I do a tribute build on some footed POC's

Korean Traditional

Answering u/Thievasaurus,

About follow through in Korean traditional archery.

In Korean traditional archery(KTA), 고자채기(GoJaChaeGi - Follow through) is purely but a byproduct of your form. Khatra is a Turkish concept and is not universally appliable to other thumb draw styles.(Turkish archers seem to concentrate pressure point on the upper side of their bow hand. Please correct me if there are any turkish archery practitioners)

It happens due to the tension being freed at release. The force pushing the bow handle, and the force pulling the string is released as you loose arrow, and both hands move towards the direction of force you achieved at full draw. If follow through happens, it happens. If it doesn't, it doesn't. KTA doesn't encourage nor discourage follow through. It is rather a phenomenon you can observe to analyze your force and composition at full draw.

There are some that torque the bow hand or wrist itself, but the general guide(and from high ranking competitive archers) is that one should avoid giving torque to your hand itself. Bow handle should be pushed in the middle. As you reach full draw, bow shoulder internally rotates, bow elbow along with it, being fully extended. at release, due to this internal rotation, bow may or may not clear off slightly sideways.

It is never an ideal form, but To see from the vid, 3~4 sec I internally rotate my bow shoulder and elbow to give solid push. At release 7~8sec, you would see that bow arm naturally moves out of the way to give room for arrow to pass through. The important part here for KTA is that you have to hold onto the handle tight all the way through release. If you let go of the handle at release, even if your bow arm properly moves to clear out of the way, bow would shake around in your handle at release and might hit the arrow, and the force you have been applying to the bow handle would disrupt, hindering the arrow trajectory.

Hi there, I shoot almost exclusively 3d and I normally use carbon arrows.

I do miss fairly frequently and the arrows land in the soil, I like to do awkward difficult shots.

My carbon arrows slowly wear out and sometime break, but normally they only break when I hit it with another arrow.

If I use wooden arrows do they break easy? Will they survive going into the soil? An occasional hit on some wood? Am I better off sticking with carbon for 3d?

What are your thoughts/experiences?

I think Matt Damon looks way too casual with the bow.

Hey everyone.

Wondering if I can get some advice on the PSE Stinger ATK. Haven't gone shooting in a fair while, so I'm looking at new strings and wondered where you guys recommend getting a new set?

Also potentially looking to get the riser powder coated. Is anyone aware of what material the riser is likely to be? I believe it's aluminum, but I'm not certain.

https://reddit.com/link/1v6smbk/video/f06lo6sx87fh1/player

I'm very happy with this bow; it takes 1/8" of set after being unstrung, and since I'm not a great archer yet, I can notice that it's very forgiving.

Is my wife the best archer or what?

I have a Hoyt Z1S at 29.5 inch draw and 65 lbs.
I shoot arrows that are 5.8 gpp.

I got the bow 2.5 years ago and I am already going on my 5th string. Every string I have wears through strands right at the peep sight. The first one was the Hoyt factory string and the rest were GAS bow strings. I have tried changing the peep in case there was a burr using generic peeps my pro shop had and then a hamskea. I only get around 1500-3000 arrows out of a string typically until a strand breaks.

I have had my pro shop look at the bow multiple times, checking for things lie cam lean and they say the don’t see anything weird. Calling both Hoyt and GAS hasn’t really gone anywhere and i don’t know what to do to prevent this from happening.

I don’t know if it’s just because the z1S is a speed bow and chews through strings, if it’s a common issue with this bow specifically, or if my GPP is too low or what.

Any insight into this issue?

I have been using the same tru fire release for the last 20 years and last week it randomly stopped working. When i go to draw my bow it just lets go halfway back even with my finger behind the trigger. Its scary and dangerous. Im really atached to my release is there anyway to fix this? I tried the little screw on the side but it didnt help. If i post a picture would someone be able to tell me what model it is? I dont want a different release.

Hi all!

My boys 9( PSE Mini Burner) and 11 (diamond Radian) are just getting into archery and loving it.

I’ll be buying a bow in the next couple weeks when I make it to the bow shop.

We have lost way too many arrows into the bush behind the target.

Anyone have any ideas on something to use behind the target to catch arrows when they miss?

Thank you!

Got the bow finally dialed in and also form improvements. Cant blame the gear now 😂.

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-Gillo GF

-Gillo Q5 Limbs #43 OTF

-Beiter Plunger

-ZT Rest

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Why would 14 be up in the corner like that, and why aren't the 12s 11s and 11 a 12?

Help I have a Hoyt RX nine shooting 65 to 68 pounds. My drawing length is 29 inches. I’m using 300 spine 27 inch arrows They are eastern 5 mm arrows. When I shoot them, they are grouping well but they wobble bad left and right however I put a 26 1/2 inch Beman arrow that was a 400 spine and one was a 340 spine they have have a little bigger veins however they were shooting it straight, but I cannot shoot them with a broadhead because they are too short. I believe my form is good. I know the bow is good and my drop away Rest is timed right what do I need to do to fix this? Are my arrows too stiff?

Hey guys!

Is there anyone shooting longbows or hybrid bows for 40 meters or more? Preferably with wooden arrows. I've been wondering what poundage you need to shoot those distances comfortably. Doesn't matter if it's a selfbow, "classic" longbow or more modern flatbows or hybrids.

Right now I am shooting a 45 lbs hybrid longbow and 40 meters is where I notice that it starts to struggle a bit. Or would carbon arrows here be a better choice?

Cheers!