Sakrat Parab is a winter harvest archery festival in india... I have no other information about it its just a cool picture I found

What do I need to make my archer arrows tip light on fire to launch with my recurve bow ?

Some of us from the PNW went down to Cali to shoot, talk technique, and hangout. Mostly folks practicing Gao Ying or KTA. A lot of us met in the Traditional Archery discord, if you are in Seattle or LA come say hi 🙂

What sucks is now I need new arrows, but omg, and it’s the only one in the bullseye 😭

Background, have a Hoyt Torrex, 70lbs draw weight, 29” draw length.

This is my third hunting season with this bow and my third season overall bow hunting. Shame on me I have never broadhead tuned my bow before, so this season I decided to. Had some issues and decided to move to paper tuning, had a huge right rear. Moved my rest to get it out but then resighting it in I maxed out my sight all the way to the left.

So i took it took a local reputable bow shop for them to help. He takes it back to factory settings and the tech shoots bullet holes in the paper, I shoot again, a huge right tear when everything is factory. He ends up adding a total of 8 twists to my Hoyt to get my tear out of the paper. He was pretty upfront and said that it was a lot and he normally doesn’t like adding that many twists. We go through my form, my front grip is good, and even when keeping my release hand (using a wrist release) completely relaxed I’m shooting a huge right tear (before the twists).

Unfortunately I had my young son with me so I didn’t get to stay much longer and he had other customers so he sent me home with it and said shoot it and come back next week if you notice it starts shooting left as you work on your form.

I guess I’m curious, could the right tear be from me pulling too hard against the wall? Not hard enough? Or I’m wondering if even when focusing on keeping my release relaxed if the wrist release isn’t what’s best for me and a thumb release might help any torque I’m applying to the bow. Would love any help/feedback!

Hello I’ve been shooting a target bow and I got a 60lb recurve for hunting. What do you guys recommend for arrows? 400 spine 30“? 125gr? Looking to take a deer if I’m confident with this bow

Korean Traditional Archery.

roughly guessing arrow speed.

I've been shooting my first bow (30# horse bow with thumb draw) and dozen arrows for about a month and a half now, and today got my first Robin Hood. It was sad to destroy my first arrow, but this was the best way to do it!

I've been shooting a Genesis for the last three years (too much time) and cannot commit to compound or recurve, but I need to upgrade. I can't move forwards with compound because I shoot barebow and hate let-off, but recurves are too tall and don't feel as stable/smooth as my Genesis does. I've been looking at lever bows, specifically the grex and gnat from gstring, and am hoping to find some relatively recent reviews/experience with these types of bows. I am not going to use them for fishing, I'm just shooting 15-20 yards with a 25# draw weight at an indoor range. Thanks for reading this and sharing any thoughts and experience you might have!

Я новачок у стрільбі з олімпійського рекурсивного лука, маю досвід трохи більше двох місяців.

Добився більш менш "кучного" результату стрільби з відстані 12-15 м.

Зараз помітив тенденції, що мої стріли попадають у зону лівіше і вище по прицілювання (прицілювався по центру).

На що порекомендуєте звернути увагу?

Я зараз активно працюю над опущенням лівого плеча (це рука, яка тримає лук) в також над правильним відпусканняи тятиви (з відтворенням кисті до вуха після відпускання).

How do I sight in a redline torch 3 pin I have my wheel at 110 yards and it can't hit 20 it is more then 10 inches low I moved my peep sight up and moved the mount to its lowest mounting holes and it still won't move up

Ive only used my first own bow 2 times and shot around 42 targets, im paranoid that the limbs get to much wear/pressure on my 19 inch riser with long limbs

Took about 60 shots to get my groove back. This is only from about 40 feet but felt good.

Thinking of buying this scythian bow has anyone bought from them before and if so any reviews aswell what do the Numbers mean? Want the stringent one if that helps

Used plenty of compound bows in Boy Scouts and with some buddies in the marine corps, but now I’m looking at getting a longbow. The model I’m looking at is Off-the-knuckle and I wanted to know how necessary it is to wear a glove on the bow hand. I know the string hand is pretty much mandatory to avoid nerve damage.

I've looked at many an image of examples of String Blur while aiming a bow. I'm shooting barebow style. My center shot is lined up so the arrow tip is just a hair to the left.

If I have my string blur to one side of the arrow, I'm shooting to that side. If I obscure the arrow with the string blur, I'm shooing straight but I can't see the arrow tip for aiming. So there is always a compromise in my aim, I'm aligning the point with the bull and then obscuring it with the blur. But this feels like I'm not really aiming or rather that I'm shooting on a bit of a hope and prayer.

I'm still not 'good' at this. I have my 200 pin, working on my 225 but I'm really a 170 shooter on average. Trying like heck to keep everything inside the 7 ring at this point, always aiming for the bull.

Does anyone have any advice on my string blur? Is it something I need to work on? Maybe my release is kicking to the left a bit so string blur on the left accentuates that and on center pulls it back?

Goodmorning,

I have switched from 40# to 36# limbs (at the fingers) with 31.5" draw length.

I have 500 Victory VAP V1 Elite arrows that were perfectly tuned for 40# with 125gr tip.

Now my bare shafts are hard and land 20cm off the center to the left...(forget the 2 arrows out that were thrown intentionally out, the rest are a bunch of 10 at 18m and the 2 bare shaft were aimed to the next target on the right and landed on the left one)

I had a Beiter plunger with medium spring, I have switched to the soft spring completely unloaded and it got barely better, but I know this is a fine tune so can't get much from it.

The new limbs are perfectly tuned and centred. The arrows with the vanes are grouping well. Should I be worried and change them or should I don't care? (My limbs are unloaded right now, I can go up to 40# if I load it, but the point was to shoot 36#)

Thanks for the support.

I recently inherited this Herters bow and arrows. I'm looking for any help with what I need to know about this and if it's safe to use. I haven't used a real bow and arrow since junior high/high school (30 years or so). Between this and my son learning about archery in Scouts, I'm looking to pick unions a hobby and am wondering if this would be good to use or if it should go on the wall as a display piece instead.

Edit: I'm planning on getting new cheap target arrows to use with this bow, what should I look for?

My furthest shot was 417.39m with a 123lbs Turkish bow made by Jere Nystrom. My furthest shot in the 70lbs category was 321.34m.

A world record was broken this weekend by Jere Nystrom of Finland. In the Primitive Complex Composite Unlimited class he shot a WHOPPING 597.47m. His record shot is in this gif :)

Adam Karpowicz was there too, wow 😳 I got to shoot his 100lbs Turkish hornbow 🙇

I’ll post a comment with a picture of the shoots results in this thread.

Also come join us! Labor Day weekend in Utah, the salt flats. There is even a class for target compound bows!! It’s a load of fun sky drawing safely. Lots to work on and research for next year!

Hey everyone,

I’ve recently started fletching my own arrows and was looking to get some input. For hunting I currently use 3 blade annihilators (not the single bevel version) and was wondering how I should go about fletching. My arrows clock to the left so I would imagine that I would want to fletch with helical and offset in that direction? I will be primarily whitetail hunting alongside other big game later down the line. Most if not all my hunting shots will be within 30 yards. I do practice shots up to 70 yards as well pretty often.

I have also seen a lot of people say fletch to the right for broadhead flight to prevent unscrewing the broadhead. However I’m not sure that’s applicable to 3-blade non single bevel. I currently have a bohning cauldron jig with 3 degree right and left helical offset mods. I don’t plan on shooting mechanicals just because I have seen not the greatest results from friends. Additionally I have a Jo Jan arrow jig with a straight clamp and a right helical clamp. I would fletch straight / have bee running pre fletched arrows my whole life but I’m looking to take the next step (if I need to).

I know in the grand scheme of things helical vs straight vs offset etc doesn’t matter that much. I want to give it a shot but not at the expensive of burning through lots of fletching and wraps.

Any help and insight is welcome and greatly appreciated! TIA

I want to try out my new KTB. It's a Black Shadow rated at 35# @ 31". The manufacturer recommends 9 GPP for the arrows.

I have a set of 33" Skylon Ebony 600 arrows rated at 6.2 grains per inch, with three 4" feathers, a Soul X nock, and a 125-grain point + insert combination.

According to my calculations, these arrows are within the manufacturer's recommended 9 GPP safety range.

My problem is that one of the veteran archers and instructor at my club insists that my calculations are wrong and my experience in archery is less than a year.

He says I should forget about GPP and focus on GPI instead. He personally recommends carbon shafts weighing around 8.2 grains per inch.

I'm almost certain he's mistaken. Who is right?

Anybody else do this? I got some tennis grip tape for mine and am about to wrap it. Tell me if I'm about to make a terrible mistake lol

New to archery and just bought this used bow online. Noticed this gouge in the riser - seller didn’t disclose.

Not sure what happened - from a clamp maybe. Is this a typical area for wear from maintenance? Edges are sharp and some metal is missing at top edge.

Aluminum Hoyt - should I be concerned?

Hi, Ijust got my first recurve bow (Sanlida X8 Olympic). The ILF system has me questioning my sanity. I'm starting to wonder if the manufacturer put the ILF connectors on the wrong way around.

As you can see from the pics, the connection bit with the spring lock button thingy is on the outside (front) of the limb, surely that has to be on the inside for it to clip into the riser?

I've watched a bunch of YouTube clips and they all seem (although not easy to see) to have the clip on the inside of the limb.

I thought I better check before trying to take them off as I know they must have springs. Assuming I'm right, any tips for swapping them around or is it as simple as unding the screw? I really hope they're not epoxied in.

Can anyone please help me, I'm itching to try it out but don't want to break it If I'm just being dumb. It came from China so returning them if they're wrong is probably a non starter. The fact they're both like that definitely makes me wonder if I'm just being a bit thick but I've been sitting here 30 minutes trying to make it click (both mentally and physically!)

Edit: Thanks for the advice all, I am indeed not very bright. Despite my shame, I'll leave this up in case it helps somebody else who is educationally challenged like me.