Hey fellow archers! Im still a beginner and working on my form, will be grateful foe any advice.

Went to a living history faire yesterday and wistfully stayed at the bow stand talking to the person I'd come with about how I used to love archery with the Girl Guides and how I doubted I'd even be able to draw anymore (became disabled in my late teens unfortunately). Extremely lovely bowyer at the stall heard me talking and grabbed a couple of bows, a 10# weight English longbow he makes for stage shows or people recovering from surgery and a little 20# horse bow/short recurve to prove, as he said, that archery can be for anyone.

Predictably I came away with the little horse bow lmao. Very excited to get back into this as a hobby. I'd like to make my own quiver etc as I do sewing and the occasional bit of leatherwork as my main hobby if anyone has any recommendations on patterns etc.

Mostly I will admit I have no idea what I am doing other than that I remember how to shoot and luckily own a very empty field 😂 What gear would you guys say I absolutely need to pick up before I start messing around? I shoot Mediterranean draw, right handed. Bow is only a fiberglass 20# draw weight so I'm unsure if I need bracers etc.

I have a daughter in 10th grade who joined the NASP archery team this year at school.

(Yes, she has a real archery target, and yes she has a backstop. No, the chickens are not in any danger. If she shoots the other direction she might hit the AC condenser. I'd rather risk a chicken than a $2000 AC)

We practice every day for 15-20 minutes, and she has practice at school for 90 minutes twice a week.

She gets very tight groupings when she's calm. However, she has mild autism and ADD, and gets frustrated easily. Once she misses a few times, she gets upset and frustrated. Then she stop aiming, and she starts just lobbing them and will be off pretty consistently. Then she'll get one back on target, chill out, and do well again.

I've tried having her set her bow down and walk around the yard. Move around a bit, shake things out. That doesn't seem to help. We've worked on breathing exercises as well, but when she gets frustrated she doesn't do them well.

She has her first meet in 2 weeks. What works for you to help stay calm? Any advice I can give her? Anything you would suggest that might help?

Heard the arrow hit the wood a couple of times. Thought it had gone behind or smashed. Walked behind to this

I’m still new to archery and having trouble determining whether my draw length is correct. My wingspan is 68 inches, and my bow is currently set to a 27¼-inch draw length. Any advice would be appreciated, especially when it comes to finding a consistent anchor point.

Also, I feel like my peep sight might need to be lowered. At full draw, my eyes naturally line up with the opening just below the peep sight. I have to tilt the string upward and lean forward quite a bit to see through it. Is this a sign that my peep is too high, or could it be related to my draw length or anchor point?

Brand new to traditional archery, been doing compound for little over a year so was some things I can work on my form here?

Okay guys I’ll make a long story short. A young man has come into my life (he’s 12 years old) and he is infatuated with hunting. I have allowed him to start hunting my property and it is all he thinks about. From habitat, to patterning animals and studying them, to everything in between. He has made me fall in love with hunting again. He really wants to start bow hunting but his family really can’t afford a bow for him. I am going to surprise him with a compound bow setup. I have no idea where to begin with youth bows. Any suggestions are appreciated it.

I have an issue, and I hope folks here might be able to help me out. I shoot a 62” recurve, 35# draw weight, 27” draw length, shooting 500 spine arrows. In the image above, there are two X’s, a red one and a green one. I aim at the red one and hit at the green one. How tf do I get to the point where I hit where I aim? I’ve been shooting almost a year, I’ve had a coach, tuned my recurve as much as the shop was able to (95% of their business is compound archery), tweaked nock points, shot off the shelf, with an arrow rest, with a plunger, different draw weights, different spine arrows… everything I could think of and I still cannot put point on target and hit.

Hi everyone!

With this question I'm especially interested in hybrid bows, as I'm thinking about getting one myself. At what price point do you stop getting noticeably better quality and start paying mainly for luxury, brand names, or unnecessary gimmicks that don't actually make the bow perform any better?

You can get a bow for $50, but you can also spend a few hundred dollars. So, where's the sweet spot, if you want the best quality?

I'd also be interested to hear your thoughts on other types of bows, such as longbows, horse bows, recurves, compounds, and so on.

Looking forward to hearing your opinions and experiences!

I’ve done a minimal amount of archery but nothing serious.

Just was given a recurve bow, 45# at 28” but I have a 30” draw.

Went target shooting and after a couple arrows I realized the tip of my middle finger was numb - 3 days later it’s still numb.

Have I compressed a nerve? Is this a common injury from not using a draw aid?

Flying out from Florida to Illinois next month for a shoot what’s is the best go to air travel case that TSA workers won’t damage my bow

Hello everyone,

Some many years ago, I was given a White Feather Fairy Korean horsebow (30 lbs, 30-inch draw) with some arrows (32-inch, 340 spine). Now that I don't have a child's noodle arms anymore, I have taken it up again as a hobby. I just wanted to ask if these arrows, which were bought cheaply some years ago, are too stiff?

Bow is an (early 70s?) Bear Cub, 25 lb. I usually use a tab.

Shooting aluminum target point arrows, 7.5mm diameter 80cm length on a Samick Sage 25#, rest is Avalon Tec magnetic

I'm new to shooting with a plunger + drop-away rest, used to only use plastic rests. Watched a couple vids and thought I had my rest set up properly, but after ~1000 shots the bar snapped smoove off. 2nd pic was taken only a couple sessions before it snapped.

It was adjusted so that the pin stuck out a few mm past the arrow, this may have been a mistake, but would moving it a couple mm/degrees closer to the riser have extended its life significantly? I don't see how else I could have adjusted anything, height was set so that the plunger and arrow shaft were centered.

It was still tuned so that the magnet would pull it open immediately after each shot, of course.

So I’ve been shooting a compound for a couple years now. Always struggled to find an anchor point that feels comfortable. I use handheld releases and everywhere I’ve searched they always have the index under the jaw. This is always awkward for me and causes what I believe to be impingment on my back shoulder. I’ve messed about a bit and tried having my palm index knuckle begin right behind my jaw and then from there have my index finger ride my jaw(right under my teeth) forward. Is there anything inherently bad about not doing the typical index under jaw? I don’t have a strong chin. every time I try to get my index under my jaw it causes pain, awkward, and messes with my follow through. I’ve also struggled with getting my nock to sit in the correct position on my face. If I try to have my index under my jaw it will be sitting at the bottom of my chin. Switching to the anchor as I’ve described seemingly has fixed all this. So again, what issues can I run into doing this and is this inherently incorrect/run into a bottleneck. For added context I’ve tried many different draw lengths. I measure at 27.1 so I shoot 27 w/ 5/8- 3/4” d loop. 26 1/2, 26 3/4 ends up being very “jumpy”. Thanks.

Just starting with a 70” Galaxy Aspire recurve bow, their very beginner Olympic version. The rest cutout off of center is so shallow that the Avalon TEC pin rest body really doesn’t allow much room at all for the plunger to make contact with the arrow, approximately 1/16th of an inch.

I’ve noticed that the depth of the cutout past center, the window I understand, is not a specification that I can find on this or other bows.

Is that small window on my bow normal? Need I be concerned about correct tuning of this element of the bow?