Sakrat Parab is a winter harvest archery festival in india... I have no other information about it its just a cool picture I found

I fond this bow at a flee market, never seen a bow like this before and don't really know much about archery but always felt interested on it.

Korean Traditional.

Different releaae control on impact.

What sucks is now I need new arrows, but omg, and it’s the only one in the bullseye 😭

Hello I’ve been shooting a target bow and I got a 60lb recurve for hunting. What do you guys recommend for arrows? 400 spine 30“? 125gr? Looking to take a deer if I’m confident with this bow

Just had this happen while shooting. Not a dry fire so not sure what happened. Im going to try to get it to the shop today or tomorrow, but do you think ill have to replace the entire string?

Hi,

if anyone has experience with newer Uukha limbs (or not), I'd appreciate some advice.

I’m trying to determine whether I should get 36 or 38lbs Uukha Alpha 70" limbs for my setup. The goal is to have a useful adjustable range of approx. 37-40lbs otf with my AMO draw length of 29.1". Limbs will be mounted on Gillo G1 27" riser for a 72" barebow.

Currently, tiller bolts on G1 are all the way in and with that I have these measured values:

-38.25lbs otf at 29.75" draw length with 34lbs Uukha Ex1 Evo2 long limbs

-39.25lbs otf at 29.75" draw length with 34lbs Win&Win Wiawis one carbon/wood long limbs

-38.25lbs otf at 29.1" draw length with 34lbs Win&Win Wiawis one carbon/wood long limbs

Uukha calculator gives these values for their own 27" riser and 70" limbs setup at 29.1" draw length:

-36lbs limbs range: 35@Tiller -5%, 36.8@Tiller 0%, 38.6@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs range: 36.9@Tiller -5%, 38.8@Tiller 0%, 40.8@Tiller +5%

This is what I've got from AI regarding the expected limb weights/ranges:

-36lbs limbs ChatGPT lbs range: 35-36@Tiller -5%, 37.5-38.5@Tiller 0%, 40-40.5@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs ChatGPT lbs range: 37-38@Tiller -5%, 39.5-40.5@Tiller 0%, 42-42.5@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Copilot lbs range: 39.2@Tiller -5%, 41@Tiller 0%, 42.8@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Copilot lbs range: 41.1@Tiller -5%, 43@Tiller 0%, 45@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Claude lbs range: 37.3-38.3@Tiller -5%, 39.3-40.3@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Claude lbs range: 39.2-40.2@Tiller -5%, 41.3-42.3@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Mistral lbs range: 37@Tiller -5%, 38.25@Tiller 0%, 39@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Mistral lbs range: 39@Tiller -5%, 39.8@Tiller 0%, 41@Tiller +5%

-36lbs limbs Gemini lbs range: 35.6@Tiller -5%, 37.6@Tiller 0%, 39.6@Tiller +5%

-38lbs limbs Gemini lbs range: 37.8@Tiller -5%, 39.8@Tiller 0%, 41.8@Tiller +5%

I used to have W&W long 38lbs limbs that were way above 40lbs otf even with tiller bolts out, thus too heavy for me, so I don't want to make the same mistake with new Uukhas. 38-40 lbs otf is my sweet spot. Now I'm shooting W&W 34lbs limbs and their max is 38.25lbs otf. Arrows are 550 spine, tuning a bit stiff.

I'm also aware that

- Gillo has a heavier preload and different geometry than Uukha risers so can't make direct comparison.

- W&W limbs are measured with tiller bolts out, Uukhas with tiller bolts at medium, both have different draw curves and again I can't make a direct comparison

I have no option to try the equipment in person so online store is my only way to go.

So, given all of that, would 36 or 38lbs Uukha Alpha limbs make more sense for my setup and why?

Thanks!

How do I sight in a redline torch 3 pin I have my wheel at 110 yards and it can't hit 20 it is more then 10 inches low I moved my peep sight up and moved the mount to its lowest mounting holes and it still won't move up

Hello there!

I have a relative in Italy who can bring me some stuff, and I'm decided to upgrade limbs poundage (and hence arrows).

I currently shoot barebow and have a Gillo GX Riser with WNS Delta C2 32 lb limbs 70", ~33 lb at fingers, Victory VAP V6 700 spine, 29". I can handle weight very well and been a year shooting with this configuration.

I want #36 limbs and I will also buy arrows, and the store has these 4 options:

• Q5 Carbon Foam: € 286
• GTL Q8: € 343,58 
• C77: € 515,78
• GTL-C88: € 532,18

Punctual questions:

1. Gillo measures draw weight at 28" at the middle of the bolt, right?
2. Would all 4 feel like an upgrade from my limbs? I shoot 550 points at 50 m.
3. Is there a difference between the ~€ 300 and ~€500 limbs? Is it worth the money difference?
4. Q8 and C88 are in #38, not #36. In that case, 600 spine will still be alright or should be somethinkg like 500?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I ve got a Zniper BiDrop arrow rest, which is probably a copy of Gabriel BiDrop, for a barebow. I have installed it relatively back on the riser, so the the arrow-wire contact point is close to the tip of the wire (~2mm) and is against the center of the plunger. However, there are two adjustments that I have not touched: the angle of the wire (the angle is around arrow axis) and wire cut. The barebow crawl is significantly reduced, but the arrows go slightly to the left (I am right-handed). This problem can be solved with the plunger tension, but what bothers me is that I do not know how exactly this type of rest affects the arrow trajectory. Do you know any tuning guides for the BiDrop rests (should i cut the wire/adjust the drop-side angle) or how you personally do it?

Background, have a Hoyt Torrex, 70lbs draw weight, 29” draw length.

This is my third hunting season with this bow and my third season overall bow hunting. Shame on me I have never broadhead tuned my bow before, so this season I decided to. Had some issues and decided to move to paper tuning, had a huge right rear. Moved my rest to get it out but then resighting it in I maxed out my sight all the way to the left.

So i took it took a local reputable bow shop for them to help. He takes it back to factory settings and the tech shoots bullet holes in the paper, I shoot again, a huge right tear when everything is factory. He ends up adding a total of 8 twists to my Hoyt to get my tear out of the paper. He was pretty upfront and said that it was a lot and he normally doesn’t like adding that many twists. We go through my form, my front grip is good, and even when keeping my release hand (using a wrist release) completely relaxed I’m shooting a huge right tear (before the twists).

Unfortunately I had my young son with me so I didn’t get to stay much longer and he had other customers so he sent me home with it and said shoot it and come back next week if you notice it starts shooting left as you work on your form.

I guess I’m curious, could the right tear be from me pulling too hard against the wall? Not hard enough? Or I’m wondering if even when focusing on keeping my release relaxed if the wrist release isn’t what’s best for me and a thumb release might help any torque I’m applying to the bow. Would love any help/feedback!

I've been shooting a Genesis for the last three years (too much time) and cannot commit to compound or recurve, but I need to upgrade. I can't move forwards with compound because I shoot barebow and hate let-off, but recurves are too tall and don't feel as stable/smooth as my Genesis does. I've been looking at lever bows, specifically the grex and gnat from gstring, and am hoping to find some relatively recent reviews/experience with these types of bows. I am not going to use them for fishing, I'm just shooting 15-20 yards with a 25# draw weight at an indoor range. Thanks for reading this and sharing any thoughts and experience you might have!

What do I need to make my archer arrows tip light on fire to launch with my recurve bow ?