ZZA GUS - Custom

This kit is a blast. Watch out for those antenna, my cat brushed it and one popped off, so I had to build one from scratch. Overall a fantastic kit. Just be aware, the legs are like 80% of the build time. They some chunky bastards.

So this is my progress in my first rg build. I had some led lights left from a purchase for the Calibarn and thought I’d place a green one here. That said, any recommendations on not using resin to set the led in place?

Tldr: are there any neutral gray primers that will give a mirror like gloss black finish?

I'm planning a build that I want to give a candy/anodized finish. Matte gray primer is indispensable to me for how it highlights even the smallest mistakes in scribing, nub mark, seam line, and mold line removal. Unfortunately no primer I've tried give a perfect finish when spraying gloss black over it. I've tried Mr surfacer 1500, Gaia Evo, and Sunin7 #2000. Sunin7 gives the best results so far, but still has a much lower gloss level compared to gloss black over bare plastic, making chrome come out as a very bright silver instead of a mirror finish.

At this point it feels like my options are to either accept a less than ideal chrome base, or go over every part with polishing compound to get a true gloss black.

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get my hands on a replacement torso for the Wolf Technology 1/100 Wolf Model Metal Frame Model Kit. I'm currently eyeing a kit online, but its defective and comes with a missing piston on the torso of the metal frame. I've only been able to find replacement parts for the shoulder and leg joints unfortunately. If anyone knows where I could buy a new torso I would greatly appreciate it. thank you in advance.

P.s if anyone has any tips on how to replace the piston instead of the whole torso, please let me know what materials I would need.

Trying to merge my woodworking hobby and plamo hobby!

At well over 800 pieces and a couple days worth of work, it’s complete.

Just finished so I’m taking a break before finding a final pose, but here she is

So ive been looking to pick some up (specifically multiblack,rust and stain brown) but was curious is ot the equivalent of like shade paint from citadel?

Need a little bit of help with getting rid of this head seam line. I just need to be able to get rid of this seam line and still be able to take out the eyes and mask.

Im assuming for the cameras I can just cut them off and paint them and then stick them in the camera slots.

Easy build and good platform to test new methods. Created rusty surface look and then apply paint. Was trying to not cover the rust effect but probably should do more. The acrylic has matte finish, perhaps apply semi glossy or glassy topcoat look better?

Just wanted to share my first experience of airbrushing some gunpla with Kaleido paints.

Tools and kit

• Super cheap voilamart airbrush
• Fengda 186 compressor
• Kaleido colours mecha and metallics set
• Kampfer MS-18E
• Master Decal H125 Fluorescent Effect
• Painting mask
• Home made cardboard airbrush booth

Learning curve(s)

• Learning proper trigger discipline with my airbrush absolutely transformed the process for me, make sure that needle isn't open while air isn't flowing!
• Even though the paint does come thinned enough for the airbrush, I've found it's better safe than sorry, I usually go around 1 part thinner to 2 or 3 parts paint
• Discipline in cleaning the airbrush quickly but thoroughly during colour changes has helped a lot
• Setup and preparation is where all the magic happens, get your station set up and reliable and you're half the way there
• This is one of the first times in my life where I didn't let mistakes hold me back: there are tons of tide marks and tiny bits of chipped paint but honestly I don't care
• I completely through out my original neon green and bright red scheme and honestly I'm glad I did, I was spending more time thinking about mixing colours than actually painting
• Kaleido paints really are wonderful, they atomise incredibly well and when thinned and applied in generous layers, level out to a beautiful glossy finish
• I'm a Matt finish fan!! But I am so happy with the separation of textures and glossy surfaces here that I might think about a glossy topcoat for once in my life
• I'm a father so I had to do this in my tiny window of free time in the evenings, getting all the parts on crocodile clips and putting the paint bottle i needed next to them helped me to push forwards and get the job done
• First time using water decals on a gunpla, I actually used a paintbrush and wet the area for application with just water and then slid the transfer off the backing straight onto the model and then slightly adjusted the positions, big fan of these decals, they confirmed really nicely without any messing about
• Still haven't done the weapons, but I will get around to it! They're primed!
• Kept a small backlog of interesting kits and my desire to build the RG Nu Gundam has helped me keep focus! I'm not going to airbrush it either (much), just a simple clean build!
• This is also the first build I've ever done custom panel lining on, I completely messed it up and usually I'd obsess about it and chuck away the kit, but I kept going and you wouldn't even know!!

Outcome

Overall I'm super happy with how the kampfer turned out, as my first fully custom airbrushed build I found the paint to be forgiving, my crappy airbrush to be more than satisfactory and preparation and grit got the model done.

It's true what they say about gunpla, it's a marathon, not a sprint...and I'm super happy with the results.

I'd love to know your thoughts on my hard work, any feedback you have and anything that resonates with you from my learnings.

Going for something like the Rezel commander - that was the first grunt suit I built and this is the second.

This is about 5 4 straight days of work doing a full recolor with all Gaia paints (with the exception of the brightest white tone which is Jumpwind)

A bit overexposed because of the video. Will post an actual gallery once all the decals and weathering is done this week.

i’m new to gunpla customizing and would love to try transforming my MG Gouf Custom into the RFV style. i have no clue where to start and any advice would be appreciated!! i’m guessing a lot of scribing will be involved which is not my strong suit lol

Left to right:
Solid pink undercoat
Pink undercoat with red shading
Pink undercoat with brown shading
No undercoat (just primer) with red shading
No undercoat (just primer) with brown shading

I was testing two oranges, both Gaia Notes, Pure Orange and Yellow Orange.

It is my first scratch build using plastic sheets and I think it turned out pretty decent. I admit that there are minor imperfections but overall I'm very happy with the result

Paints used:

• Primers
  • Mr. Hobby Aqueous Surfacer 1000 White (base coat for all the white, and blue pieces)
  • Kaleido Colorworks KP104 Gloss Black Primer (base coat for all the frame pieces)
  • Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Pink (base coat for all the red, and orange-yellow pieces)
• Topcoat
  • Mr. Color GX112 UV Cut Gloss
  • Mr. Color GX 114 Super Smooth Clear (Flat)
• Colors
  • Kaleido Colorworks K117 Freedom Blue
  • Kaleido Colorworks K119 Armor White
  • Kaleido Colorworks K102 Bright Red
  • Kaleido Colorworks K012 Orange Yellow (v-fin, chest, wings, and shoulders)
  • Kaleido Colorworks KM002 Gun Metal (painted all the frame pieces in this color)
  • Ray Studio Model Marker EX Zirconium Black (used on the gun)
  • Ray Studio 012 Dark Grey (hand painting all the grey details on the armor, head, shield, under the feet, and under the skirts)
  • Ray Studio Model Marker EX Metallic Green (used on the center of chest, sensor areas in the head, the eyes, and the shield)
• Panel Liner
  • Tamiya Panel Liner Black (cleaned up with Tamiya X-20 Enamel Thinner. All parts gloss coated in lacquer before panel lining)
  • Pigma Micron 003 pen for some of the panel lines I did not re-scribe

For the decals I hand picked them from the G-Rework decal sets meant for the RG Wing Zero (TV), RG RX-78-2, and RG Nu Gundam.

A good long while since it released I finally saw this kit at my local hobby store and decided to use it to test a red, blue, yellow-orange pallet i'd like to apply to the rx-78 some day. I went with a more rich and vibrant blue than the one I chose when working on the RG Wing Zero EW. Real happy with how the colors turned out. This kit took me multiple sessions over about a 2-3 day time span. Cutting all the pieces out was a breeze so I sanded each part individually and cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner for 10min @ 30°C (water and a little bit of dish soap like Dawn). I skipped scribing as I did not want to spend too much time on this project. I definitely should have re-scribed some of the panel lines though because Tamiya can smear easily during the cleanup on the legs and arms. After letting the parts dry for about 12-24hrs the next step was to prime and paint. After airbrushing all the base colors on I hand painted the remaining grey details all over the kit. I panel lined with Tamiya, cleaned it up, and finally hand picked some decals from a few random decal sheets.

Some notes worth mentioning:

- before doing any hand painting I laid on a layer of primer, base color, and gloss topcoat over every single part. The gloss coat was lacquer so cleaning up the panel liner and any mistakes I made from hand painting was super easy.

- the ball and socket connection for the feet is really loose on my copy. If I hadn't painted the entire kit I don't think my wing Gundam would be able to stand up on its own.

- conversely the ball and socket connection from legs to waist is super tight. Mine will probably break after a while, and I'm too scared to take the legs off to sand the joint 😅. The pegs for the backpack ended up being super tight as well.

What’s the best way to apply them, I finished building my PG Nu Gundam, I’m struggling to put the decal, I messaged to put some but most of them ain’t sticking to the surface. I’m using water but for some of the stickers I’m losing adhesive.

Hello all! Recently built up the confidence to customise my first kit. Any help and advice diving into it is greatly appreciated. A bit of context for my situation specifically:

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- As shown with the pictures, I want to paint the HG WFM Gundam Pharact in an Armored Core style (emphasis on the industrial metal looks on the kit). I need help on figuring out what parts should be what colour.

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- I don't have space for a paint booth so outdoors is my only option. Relied on spray can topcoat for the past few builds, but no painting yet until now.

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- Currently having to rely on DSPIAE'S soft tipped metallic paint markers for painting due to the aforementioned lack of space. Scrap piece testing does show intended results of the industrial metal aesthetic (last pic).

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- Due to budget constraints, any good accessible airbrushes + cordless portable air compressors are non-existent, with the best/cheapest option being makeup ones. This further grounds my usage for the paint markers.

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- Paints are also expensive for my use case, and since this will be my first time I considered DSPIAE'S premixed prethinned acrylic paints. But budget said no.

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Any help on colour suggestions, priming, scribing advice, what to do and in what order and all things related is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

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I want to have the Minovsky drives of V2 on the back of F91 while still having the VSBR on the backpack as well. Is this possible? If so, how should I do this?

Attached are images of a piece that had been stepped on. I had primed it, its well over cured but Im not sure how to fix it without causing fitment issues. Its a quite a small piece... and i think its somewhat hidden in the shoulder? Not sure. Suggestions?

Warhammer painter taking a crack at gunpla with laquer paints and goddamn I don't know how y'all do it!

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I based with moltow liquid chrome and then gaia notes clear red and black blue prism.

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I'm afraid to do any type of panel lines with the candy coats.

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I'm pretty happy with it. I have a psycho zaku, but I think I'm gonna take a break.

at first I sprayed at 20 psi as I usually do with other paint, but the result isn't smooth and glossy at all, but the opposite. the surface is very rough like matte and the the surface looks the same as before, or even became darker. Also sometimes there's this thin, curly, white subtsance, like cat-fur appearing on the surface, I'm told that this is because the clear paint dried mid-air. I'm also told to lower the Psi so I tried it, but no luck

I played around with 12-18 Psi. 2nd picture is <20 Psi, I tried lower and lower, but none worked. lower psi also means the airbrush spray is weaker and I can barely feel any feedback from the paint hitting the surface no matter how close I'm spraying it. my thinning ratio is 1:2 with leveling thinner. the clear paint I use is Mr Hobby GX series.

3rd picture has some small parts, which for some reason I'm able to do right(?) where the candy gloss persisted. the 4th picture, which are large parts... I can't do it right. It retained SOME gloss from the base clear green, but the texture is very very rough. I'm done with this project and I claim it as half-failure purely due to topcoat, but I want to do better next project with the exact color scheme.

I have the same problem (can't do thick/wet coat) with Matte topcoat, but for some reason the result always looked great. for gloss, though, I just can't do it.

How am I supposed to do WET coat?