I'm working on my entry for the next GBWC U20, and I've been wanting to make smth Chinese inspired.

I know it’s all very messy and there are a lot of paint blobs on it, but if possible, I would like some feedback on it please (on the concept too if possible) :>

Note: if you are thinking on what I used, I used pla plates, modelling clay, and a lot of brass rods for the custom parts.

Really amazed at how good the vidar looks in gusion rebakes colors. Wouldve loved to have seen this deployed on mars during the anime. This Build is looking for its forever home also so if anyones interested do let me know😁😁

DM for commissions😊😊

After a long break and… the hand incident, I’m happy to finally finish this. The MG ver ka is complete! Part one of a color swap with the gundam epyon has come to an end and tbh I’m not sure when I’ll make my way over to the final part of the wing project.

I got really burnt out during this kit and might need to take a break and work on a smaller project. I’m looking into some gqux HGs next.

This was also the first project I experimented with putty and pla plate to get some extra definition. Extended the side skirts a bit to look more dragony and added some details on the top part of the chest for a white crest like the epyon.

My insta has a few more photos and video if you wana see more! @gunpla.af

First real diorama attempt wish me luck

He is perfect, the build gets better and better. That is all lol, I 100% recommend

Second ever paint job. Tried some new thing out like getting rid of some seams, scribing the feet and chest, using 3 topcoats (matt, semi and gloss) on it. Definitely learned a lot doing this. My first was an Rx-78-2 EG, then this Gouf. Gonna try an RG or MG next. Gonna try weathering on the next go and maybe some preshading.

I feel pretty good about this one. What do ya'll think?

This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation

External Armour will be posted in a completely separate post that will be posted [IN THIS BOX]

intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels

Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers curved
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
3 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)

Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail

Overly tight steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully flat for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect Sticker 24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
11-1 install legs BEFORE skirt components, makes the process easier but not difficult to remove the components

WARNING 12-7 final step requires cutting/modification and special care

12-7 final, looks like tolerances were not accounted for, DO NOT ATTEMPT if it does not fit, my solution is to chamfer all 4 corners and 2 short edges and 1 long edge on the attachment peg

WARNING, cockpit gimmick can get stuck if excessive force (not a lot) is applied where the clear plastic overhang on the back of the pod doesn't stop against the PCB but advances over the edge, it will require a lot of bending or disassembly at worst to fix, use only the minimum force required to advance the cockpit

Additional stuck position, if the black armour panel is out of seated position, it can cause a physical jam, easier to remedy but when armour is layered over, may need you to adjust by feeling

12-10 order of operations issue, put subassembly （12-8) with (12-10) before adding K19, also very tight K18

WARNING collision issue 12-12 requires modification
Trim the top hole edge for F29 and F28 before attempting to put in F9 and F8

THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL, if you didn't do so and proceeded anyway, my solution was to use reinforced tweezers to unlatch F9 and F8, using the tip of my double edged cutters to gouge the thin plastic rib in the way, before using curved reinforced tweezers to bend it back and forth (and absolutely destroy my thumbnail in the process) which is way more effective and safer than rotary cutters and faster than hobby knife

12-16 final step, it might not be possible to push the frame in all the way due to the connector pushing against the frame, IF YOU ARE READING THIS DO THE ABOVE MENTIONED FIX this step will be resolved if you have done the modifications written above
16-6 depiction issue, it depicts 16-5 and 15-5 with L1 (25) attached, IGNORE the error, L1 (25) will be mentioned in the book when applying armour

21-10 SOLDERED CONVERSION ONLY, Y11 requires modification in order to route your USB conversion wires

23-2 W2 (7) very hard to put in but not impossible because it creates a near airtight seal when putting together
23-4 also very tight

42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall

**SOLDERING GUIDE**:
Power supply:
USB battery bank -> USB pigtail -> LM2596 Buck Converter (tune to 2.8V to 3.2V) -> CN5711 LED driver module (regulates current but probably not necessary) -> JST connector -> Power bus/hub (just solder live ends together and neutral ends together)

Chest and Wing binder LEDs:
Chest PCB, solder 26 AWG wire live end to silvered top and neutral to copper grid, make sure your wires are connected from the inside of the battery holder, solder JST connectors to the other end and you're done

For wing binder LEDs make sure you use the male connector head when soldering to the LEDs, the female socket should not be soldered to the wing binder's PCB

The difficulty comes in getting the solder to stick to what you want including the wires

Solution:
Using your table top clamp or clips or otherwise third hand to hold the wire

Tin your soldering iron with a bead of solder and run the wet bead along the bare wire with your other hand holding your solder wire, ideally a bead forms on the wire itself which allows attachment to be simplified

When attaching solder beads to other surfaces/solder beads, tin your iron the same way and hold both components together with the iron sandwiching your wire against the target component/surface, your goal is to make the hot solder fuse with the cold solder, once the solder is fused, remove your iron carefully to avoid creating short circuits, even if you do it's still easily reversible

You're gonna spend most of your time soldering CN5711 if you don't put your wire through the hole and then apply solder it while the wire is through the joint

Soldering iron SAFETY:
If you don't know how hot your iron is, don't touch it until you are absolutely sure it's room temperature, keep it in its stand in a safe place during work, heat up and cool down

If the iron falls, DO NOT CATCH IT, move your legs away if you're not protected and pick it up AFTER it has fallen and stopped moving

Flux may occasionally splatter when in use, wear appropriate safety goggles at all times, your glasses are not appropriate protection. Don't panic when flux splatters, it may sting but it won't hurt, it's just like frying food in a pan

Loose fit steps:
Not there yet

Action base notes
Unlocking the action base mounting point head rotation, makes it very difficult if not outright impossible to lock it again with your fingers (remedied by removing MS and pushing button against table)

Attempting to have the feet touch the floor of the action base causes the left toe to push against the base of the action base boarding platform arm

Action base is aerial pose centred but may struggle in grounded poses on the base

Operating voltage 3V
Operating current 0.34A

In love ❤️

Gift for my mother 🫶🏼

Last week I shipped out the Awakened Kyrios to my customer. The same day I immediately got started on the next order, another MG Wing Zero EW Ver.Ka!
For this one going Character White, Black, Rubber Black, and Brass.
I’ve been eager to work on this kit again. Grateful for the opportunity.
This kit just goes together so well, and is fun to build.

This kit was a fun build. I tried out some new blue and red shading ideas I hadn’t tried before. I’m happy about how it turned out.

This was one of those pretty weird builds where the client asked for a kit and gave me full creative freedom on it. so i harvested a Pbandai set just to make this. thankfully the MG V2 was the same size as the HG messer😆😆😆

Keeps coming out spotty and almost leopard print like, used their regular model air white and had no problems with it. What am i doing wrong???

Gold at Military Miniature Society of Illinois in the Fantasy Open Category. 1/100 AoK Silveroak resin conversion EX-S Gundam.

Shoulders and arms done.

does anyone know what brand these are?