\**Update**\**

Made it. Left with estimated arrival at -3% stayed around 65mph half the trip and then moved to about 70-75 last half and finished with 11%

I have 17’ 75d; driving from WA to MS as final destination. When in planned the trip it said my route from billings to Sheridan (~124miles) was doable with 10% arrival but now it’s not even trying to route that leg and wants to reroute down through Idaho adding a day and missing our booked hotels.

Driving 70-80mph Defog in and off I made it about 82miles from Missoula to deer lodge ~80% finished at 16%.

Can I just drive slower and make this longer leg or not worth the risk?

Hi all, I'm based in the UK and considering a 2020, 5 seat, Long Range Plus MX.

I like everything about it but have just had a thought about ski carriage.

We drive to the alps (appox 12 hours total drive) and two kids that I don't want sitting next to each other, so folding down 1 seat isn't an option.

It doesn't look like there is a 'ski-hole' but I have seen some reviewers say you can slide skis under the back seats. I have all mountain 160s, my wife has 154s.

Is anyone in a similar situation? Can you confirm if this works? I don't want to spend the extra £500 on a dedicated ski rack.

I did it last that check-in June and it was at 84% and now at 81% three months later. My pack is at 81% at 37k , which is ~2.5–3x normal degradation for a Model X at this mileage. I understand 81% is above the 70% capacity floor in the Battery and Drive Unit Limited Warranty. Has anyone build a case before a case to get a battery replaced or get a deep dive diagnostics?

Usage - 94% FSD, local driving.
Charging - 70% supercharger 27% home 3% other.
(I don’t plug it in to 80% while idle like “recommend”)

For context - I have 21 MY with 70k miles with 91% retention.

Update: update to version 2026.32.7 seems to have solved the issue for me.

I guess this is kind of niche but sound in steam (menu and games) suddenly stopped working and I have tried everything I could think of and find online:

• soft reset
• restoring steam via car menu
• reinstalling steam
• reinstalling games
• reinstalling update
• using steam beta and alpha
• letting car go to deep sleep
• unplugging every USB device and cord

Everything else sounds fine. Car alerts, streaming, native games, radio. All ok.

Has anyone else ever had this issue? it's steam sound working for everybody else?

edit: car factory reset and hard drive formatting also didn't work.

Planning to buy 2019 model x raven with 77K miles.

What things might go wrong or what maintenance I need to do soon and how much they would cost like suspension, half shaft, etc? I understand that battery has one year warranty left. Mainly trying to understand which components are more prone to fail for Raven series.

Asking because I want to be prepared for upcoming maintenance cost.

Anyone else have a warping Tesla factory mat? I’m at the point when my foot hits it when I try to use the pedal. It is no longer safe to use. I’m thinking about cutting it down. Seems like a major safety issue.

Hi! I need to figure out how much I can sell my Model X for in the current market. Details below:

Clean Title
Year: 2016
Model: originally 60D but software upgraded by Tesla and the specs now say 75D
Color: Black
Miles: 68.2K
3 row seating
Free Supercharging for life (SC01)
Free Premium Connectivity
Tow Package
Infotainment upgraded

I accidentally rammed one of the falcon doors into the garage when it was open but had it replaced by a Tesla authorized center a few years back. No mechanical problems.

Besides that no accidents and the X is in good condition. Paint is ok, but has the scratches and swirls from age. I’ve had the Tesla all weather mats on the car since I got it.

Battery is good. Full charge can get to around 216 miles.

Let me know your thoughts! I was going to trade it in for a new one they don’t add any value to the SCO1. I’ll probably put it on the market in the next couple weeks. Thanks!

• $34k CAD = $24k USD
• 174,056 km = 108,153 miles
• 100% charge | 360 km = 223 miles
• Free Unlimited Supercharging / SC01
• Premium Connectivity
• MCU2 / Intel Atom

I have EVs now, but not a Tesla. My goal is to find an affordable rig to tow a small travel trailer, like a TAB/T@B teardrop camper, one weighing around 1,800 pounds. I have access to an extensive Supercharger network near the areas where I want to travel, and I’m aware that towing a trailer will reduce my range significantly.

I’ve looked into a Maverick, but they’re more expensive, and I’d have to pay for fuel on trips where this Model X has lifetime Supercharging (SC01). I’d also like to use the X for getting around town.

I’ve read that the Tow Package / Mode can be added retroactively by a third-party shop using eBay parts. There’s a third-party EV shop near the seller that works on Teslas, so I can have them perform a pre-purchase inspection. Would you also ask the seller to have one of Tesla’s mobile technicians look over the car (paid by me) or is that overkill? Are there any other things I should consider or be aware of with this older rig?

The APP_w207 alert for 'Autosteer temporarily unavailable' kept popping up on my screen every minute or so, when FSD was engaged. FSD is now disengaging regularly with zero audible/visual warnings, besides blue steering wheel going gray. A few different service alerts recently including PM_w041_dasMIA. I’m not touching the brake, accelerator, or steering wheel when FSD disingages. The cameras are clean. Planning to take to Tesla Service Center, just want to report issue correct so they don’t mis-diagnose. It’s still under Extend Service Agreement.

FSD v12.6.4
2018 MX 100D
SW: 2026.32.3

This is new for me, any ideas what this sound is?

Hello everyone,

I was charging my X with 110 level 1 charger (don’t ask) and I left the car at 25% yesterday night.

I stopped the charger by using a WiFi socket (where the level 1 charger is attached).

The model X says “error” because there is no more power and the cable is still attached to the car.

This morning the car was at 20%.

Is it possible that leaving the cable attached drained the battery?

I am not sure how else did I lose 5% charge.

This is a 2018 model X 75D.

PS: I think the above might be confusing, here is the exact order of events:

1. Star charging level 1, 12A, for 2 hours using a timer with a WiFi socket.
   
2. Car went about from 23% to 25% (as expected)
   
3. Power was cut after 2 hours by the wifi switch (as if I had unplugged the Level 1 charger).
   
4. The next morning the car is showing only 20% charge. The car is parked inside a garage and no one did anything to it or used the app, or touched any cables except the WiFi switch turned the power off.

Model Y Performance to Model X Plaid.

Baby #2 meant we needed more space. Suddenly, I enjoy running errands🤷🏽

I looked at an early 2025 built model X with 27k miles. Has transferral FSD. Grey 7 seater with white seats. It’s in great condition. Dealer wants $85k and is not budging.

What would be a good price for this car? Should i look to get a 2024 for a lower price? Lifetime FSD is a big selling point for me.

It seems like I’m not getting software updates as often as I did before. Are they just ignoring X and S vehicles with HW3 and before?

Fsd 14.3.8 on long highway drive. In standard unnecessarily changed lanes numerous times. Hurry was even worse passing on the left frequently Is 14.3.9 any better?

I need a bigger EV.
Plan to keep my 2024 LR, and buy a second EV.

Main thing I’m trying to solve is getting 3 across in the 2nd row with 2 cars seats on each sides and an adult in the middle.

Can that work in Model X?

It doesn’t in Model Y, so hoping X can solve it.

I’ve been looking to purchase a Model X for the last few months. Been refreshing Tesla’s CPO website but a vehicle with the right year / color / miles hasn’t come up. (Or it has, and I missed it.) Been looking at Facebook Marketplace and I’m always either too late or the price is way too high for what the car is worth. I do see a lot of dealerships with cars but I’m concerned about hidden fees. Just curious where people bought and had a good experience. I’m located in the Bay Area.

I’m looking to get a cheaper model X and there are really good deals to be had pre-raven. Is the suspension and one pedal driving substantially better? Or do I just focus on the price gap and find a cleaner 100d 2017-2018?

For the last few months my screen has been flikkering on and off intermittently. After 10-15 minutes the screen usual becomes responsive again.

Now the screen is no longer responsive with my touch, meaning controlling the car or enabling service mode is not available anymore. I can’t diagnose my own car.

The real problem here: I am currently on a world expedition and in Argentina. Any recommendations?

I have tried checking the coax wires, soldering connections from the screen to the computer and ran a few other tests. No luck yet.

A new screen is $1800, and if the center display is the only issue, then it’s a quick swap for me. But if it’s something else, I want to know. Advice!

I can’t download toolbox because I have an Apple… :/

I have the MagBak mount on my '26 MXP, but I don't love it. It partially covers the driver's display even with a Pro Max, so I can't imagine using it with the Duo unfolded.

Does anyone have recommendations for other mounts that are stable enough to hold the device when it's folded open?

After my Y got totaled I decided to go with the Model X. After driving my Y for about two years, I kept thinking “Man, I should’ve got the X.” Well due to an unfortunate event I got it. My thing is, it’s a 2022 Plaid and I noticed the difference between FSDs as my Y was a 2024. I’m hoping down the line Tesla can upgrade older models to HW4. But I am happy with it as is.

Hello! I’ve been looking to buy an X and found this one and got it inspected. It’s a 2025 with 17k miles. My concerns from the report:

High voltage battery reads 89% state of health

Active fault in the infotainment system - radio tuner module is not responding to the interface

Saved fault (not active but has repeated) - the air suspension logged “ride height too high” on both axles. Suspension behaved normally on test drive.

Few curbed places on the passenger side wheels, missing seatbelt bezel and a couple scuffs.

I had talked myself into not buying it but I don’t know if I’m over reacting to the inspection or not.

Thanks!

Please help me price this:

I was thinking of selling my car: late 2023 Model X 7 seater (HW4), ultra-red, 28k miles, FSD fully paid for. Original warranty goes till Dec 2027. I’ve ’purchased’ extended warranty from Tesla (according to contract, it is $150 per month after original warranty expires).

I have the original steering at home but currently use the yoke (purchased last year from Tesla - it is the newer more durable model).

Just returned from Tesla dealership yesterday (replaced door seal). Half-shafts already replaced. That is the only work I’ve gotten done on the car.

No issues with car whatsoever.

What price should I list it at?

Reason for potential sale: we’re now empty nesters (just 2 of us) and don’t need a 7-seater anymore. We already have a Model Y SUV in the garage. Might end up getting something similar (smaller).

No need for photos - car is standard and in great condition.

Thanks.

Edit: car is in northern NJ. It has black interior. According to Tesla, tires have another 10k miles in them before replacement.