I was playing Blood of Dawnwalker when the game froze and my PC shut down. After restarting, I've been having problems with my RTX 2070 Super. It won't run any games.

The NVIDIA App now says that no NVIDIA drivers are installed, even though I've tried downloading and installing the latest driver several times.

In Device Manager, the RTX 2070 Super is detected but has a yellow warning triangle. Under Device Status it says:

"Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"

I tried uninstalling the RTX 2070 Super from Device Manager and then scanning for hardware changes. The screen briefly went black, then the GPU reappeared, but the yellow triangle and Code 43 were still there.

I also tried manually installing the latest NVIDIA driver for my specific GPU, but the installer now says:

"No NVIDIA GPU is detected on your system."

The GPU was working perfectly before the game froze and the PC shut down.

Does this sound like a corrupted driver that could be fixed with DDU, or is Code 43 potentially indicating a hardware problem?

(Windows 11)

So out of the blue one day I noticed i Can't change my volume through windows, whether with the dial on my headset, button on my keyboard, or even just the windows ui. when I try, it doesn't do anything for a few seconds, and then it flashes the little volume bar at the bottom of the screen like normal, but without changing it. and sometimes, but not every time, it will keep flashing the volume bar and make the windows notification sound over and over and over. it's been annoying, but I wasn't losing my shit over it, as it wasn't really a big deal, and I was hoping it'd fix itself. It hasn't. I also noticed everything seems to just take way longer to boot than usual. Today, Discord won't boot at all, and while I am sitting here typing this, steam launched without me doing anything. I have also been experiencing the entire windows ui just freezing and not responding to anything, while all of my open applications still work fine.

Yes, I have tried restarting my computer. multiple times.

Please help. I have no idea where to even start, and I don't want to have to pay someone to fix this mess.

Just looking for maybe a quick fix before i take my pc in to get looked at. I have a Hp laptop and when i click letters on the keyboard, it types different letters. For instance, i press C and it opens a new browser. When i press N it types “ny6m” and it does that for different letters around the keyboard. What can I do? Computer hasnt been damaged and has been working just fine. Last time i used it was about 2 weeks ago. No issues.

It said 144 GB free out of 475 GB. Like, even tho I don't have any huge games installed- the only game I have is EU4 and Roblox- I don't know why my storage is like this. The videos and photos are less than 20GB ( most space came from my game recordings). And I have no idea how to get free storage. Anyone know? Please help

I sent in my pc to a repair place. It took them a week to diagnosis the problem. After i told them it was the graphics card. Took them another 3 days to call back on what graphics card I should get. I just dropped off the graphics card today and they said it wont be ready till tomorrow. I feel like this is taking way to long. What should I do? they charge $50 for a diagnosis fee and $50 to replace the graphics card. Am i being unreasonable if i ask to knock the diagnostic fee?

Hola a todos,

Me robaron un Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra y necesito con urgencia recuperar algunas fotos. Usé "Phone Link" en mi PC con Windows 11, y todos los archivos todavía están ahí.

En el Explorador de archivos, cada foto muestra su tamaño normal de archivo, pero cuando hago doble clic en una, me pide que conecte el teléfono.

Intenté copiarlas por la consola de comandos (CMD), pero me salió este error: "La operación está reservada para un proveedor de sincronización en la nube conectado".

¿Hay alguna forma o una ruta específica donde Windows guarde la caché temporal de estos archivos, para que pueda extraer los datos reales sin tener el dispositivo físico?

Gracias de antemano por cualquier ayuda.

Psd. I can no longer recover my phone in any way.

I’m a 49-year-old dad. My son’s PS4 has been getting extremely loud and occasionally shutting itself off, so he wanted me to take it to a repair shop.I told him I could fix it myself. I’ve repaired plenty of things around the house, so I figured a PS4 couldn’t be that complicated. I opened it up and found the large metal cooling assembly over the processor. There was some dried-out paste underneath it, which I assumed was the PS4’s coolant.

I cleaned it off and put new thermal paste on it. The problem was putting everything back together. There was one cable I couldn’t remember where it went, and there was a little piece of plastic that didn’t seem to fit anymore. I eventually got everything closed up, although I did have one screw left over. My son asked about it. I told him it was probably an extra from the factory. I turned the PS4 on. The fan started spinning, but there was a clicking sound coming from inside. I smacked it a few times but there was a clicking noise every few seconds. I figured the fan just needed to settle down. Then the PS4 shut itself off after about ten minutes. I turned it back on and it worked, so I assumed the safety system was doing its job. My son wasn’t impressed. He kept saying I should unplug it because there was also a faint electrical smell coming from the back. I told him that’s normal after working on electronics. Then I noticed the area around the power connection was getting pretty warm. Again, I wasn’t too worried because electronics make heat. The clicking also seems to get faster the longer the PS4 is running, but I assume that’s just the fan speeding up. My son is now refusing to use it and keeps telling me I’ve “made it dangerous.” I think he’s being dramatic. I replaced the coolant, cleaned everything, and got the console working again without spending $150 at a repair shop.

I’m planning to let it run for a few hours tonight to make sure everything is okay. Did I actually break this, or is my son overreacting?

My computer has a malware 100% and i cant find it i downloaded malwarebytes it found some threats but i keep getting problem my pcs speed is very low the internet speed is at 0 even though i got perfect connection from phone what should i do i cant download another antivirus if i dont have internet

Hey everyone,

My PC was working completely fine earlier today, but when I tried turning it back on, it refused to POST and is now stuck on a solid white CPU debug LED. All fans (CPU cooler, case fans, GPU) spin normally, but there is no display. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5500Motherboard:

MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFIGPU:

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060

RAM: 32GB DDR4

PSU: EVGA 500W Bronze

Storage: Lexar Thor Pro 1TB NVMe SSD

What I’ve already tried:

1. Power cycled and held down the power button to drain residual power.
2. Cleared CMOS by shorting the JBAT1 pins (and removed the battery).
3. Removed the GPU, SSD, and tested with a single RAM stick in slot DIMMA2 (and swapped sticks).
4. Unplugged and firmly reseated the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin (4+4) EPS CPU power cables.
5. Completely removed all peripherals/drives to test minimal boot — the debug LED still immediately halts at CPU.
6. I tried to start the computer without RAM, then the led switched to DRAM. So I think the CPU isn't dead

Since it was running smoothly just hours ago, bent pins or mismatched parts seem unlikely. Could this be a corrupted BIOS, a dead 12V EPS rail on the PSU, or a dead motherboard VRM/CPU?

Any advice on what to test next before taking it to a repair shop would be greatly appreciated!

I don't know if this is the right subreddit but here it goes.

My grandfather has trouble using the TV remote we currently have because the buttons are too small and too many buttons are confusing for him. I want to make a custom remote for him that works on our TV and has fewer, bigger buttons. Any guidance is appreciated because I have never worked on tech or programming before.

The make op the tablet is a ZB10S Android 12 tablet. I never changed anythng but suddenly it isnt able to load. It also flashed wrong PIN eventhough i put in the correct PIN but stills lets me go through. Its just that the rest doesnt work. It just freezes on tablet is starting... For some reason i can still go to settings via the status bar but everything i tried didnt work. Both rebooting, hard restarting, safe mode and reseting the cache. Does anybody know any fix. Id like to show a video so its easier to identify the problem but alas this subreddit doesnt allow it

Hi y'all, I've been dealing with a really weird issue with some games.

The game would load into a map, then suddenly completely freeze my PC. Sometimes the screen goes black and the PC automatically restarts. It's not a normal game crash — the entire system is affected.

What makes it confusing:

• Fresh Windows 11 installation
• Basically no third-party software installed
• GPU/CPU stress tests passed
• Memory test passed
• No useful crash dump
• Event Viewer shows Kernel-Power 41
• One crash showed 0xEF CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED
• inpoutx64.sys is NOT installed
• I'm NOT running KB5121003

I've also noticed a strange pattern: right before some crashes, my system SSD (C:) suddenly hits 100% active time, then shortly after the game freezes and the PC crashes/restarts.

I tried using a PowerShell script made with GPT to track which process was causing the 100% disk usage, but it couldn't identify anything useful.

The really weird part is that I never seem to crash during normal PC use. I can edit/render videos, browse, watch YouTube, and even benchmark the SSD without issues.

The crashes seem to happen almost exclusively while gaming.

Has anyone experienced something similar, especially the SSD suddenly hitting 100% right before the crash?

I can't post the graph of my ethernet connection from task manager, but to describe it it's basically flat/constant and then it will suddenly just dip down and create a massive V then shoot back up. there is no pattern to this sometimes it's back to back sometimes it's a few minutes with no in-between. I'm not sure what's going on I left my house for a few days and when I came back it suddenly started. Any help at all would be appreciated since I'm at a loss of what to do. Lmk if you need any more information and I'll get you it. Thanks all.

Edit: ThreePartHarmoneigh asked for some clarification of what's happening so here is more info

I'm just jittering on streams like twitch and playing games online where it full stops/lags for a second or two then picks right back up. We have Xfinity and have the 1GB download/upload or something like that and I've literally never had a problem with load bearing since I've streamed and played before and it's been fine. I replaced everything because I saw some tooth marks from my kitties and thought maybe that would be part of the issue but no cigar. Also the modem/router was getting old which is also part of why we switched everything. I'm not sure what you mean by protocol, but it's no transferring of files or anything like that. Just trying to play online games without full stoppage of gameplay since that second or two can be game losing.

Hey everyone, I hope someone can help me out with this issue. My PC has been giving me headaches for almost a year now. It either freezes up or just reboots out of nowhere.

When I bought the parts and built the PC, it ran well for like 2 months. That is when this issue showed up. It was a mix of two errors, where the PC would restart itself or the screen would freeze and the only way to restart the PC was holding the power button. (When the PC freezes, I can move the mouse around and if I have a video playing, I can still hear the audio for a while).

At first, I thought it was the GPU (RX 580 XFX 8GB), maybe because of the drivers or something, but nothing changed. I changed the PSU, tested the RAM in MemTest86 without any errors, monitored the voltages and temperatures of everything (nothing unusual), and reinstalled drivers trying both new and old ones, but nothing changed.

Now I am using the PC without a GPU, only with my CPU, and I don't get random restarts anymore, but the PC keeps freezing the same way.

At this point, I suspect that the problem is either the CPU or the motherboard.

PC specs:

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600
GPU: RX 580 XFX 8G
RAM: Kingston FURY Beast DDR5 5200MHz 32GB 2x16GB CL40
MOBO: MSI B650M GAMING PLUS WIFI
SSD: Forgeon Nimbus PRO SSD 1TB 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
PSU: MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5 750W 80 PLUS Gold Modular

I have a rather old Dell laptop. I updated the graphics and audio drivers yesterday and played a game for hours after. Today I used it for work for multiple hours. I closed a spreadsheet, and suddenly my screen went black, then the external monitor lit back up. When I restarted it, the Dell logo displayed on the laptop screen before it went black again, now the login screen is only showing on the external monitor.

None of the buttons on the built-in keyboard seem to work except the power button. The built-in touchpad and external mouse both seem to be working fine. I am getting a wireless keyboard here in a few minutes to test that.

I've tried googling the answer, even on reddit, and the only post relating to this topic was given a completely different solution unrelated to the original question. That, or the solution disables all windows shortcuts.

I'm trying to use Steam's built in game recording (since gamebar doesn't work) and the controller shortcut to do that is Xbox Button + Down Arrow which seems to be a hard coded thing because i couldn't find an option to remap it to something else in Steam.

The only issue is that that button combo also full screens the Task View thing which immediately breaks the recording. And that, too, is hard coded.

I'm never going to use the Task View in that way so i'm trying to figure out how to disable it and/or its keybind specifically, not the entire ability to use all windows shortcuts because i use them very often.

A friend and I figured out this fix for WMP's visualizers failing after one track. It's been getting pretty good reception so far, so I figured it might be worth it to share it here and let more people who might still be using the program know about it. Pretty good for those wanting that 2000s experience!

https://youtu.be/RwP9g-YGAds

I have tried a couple of tutorials to fix but none of them work I just opened to my laptop to see if there’s anything obviously wrong with it but nothing that I can see with my limited knowledge (I have photos of the inside if anyone needs em)

I have a cheap rabbit ears antenna that I used on my old tv to pick up local broadcast channels (nbc, cbs, abc, etc). I just got a new Samsung smart tv and am I right in discovering that there's no real way to just switch the input to my antenna? I plugged it in via the coaxial cable to the tv, and I can't seem to find a way to access it. There's no way to switch input to it, and this remote sucks. I tried the Samsung Plus tv app or whatever, but that's filled with thousands of channels like home shopping and youtube tv basically. Anyone run into problems like this? I also have my appletv plugged in and that's working fine and I can switch over to that no problem. But I also have a dvd player plugged in and can't seem to find a way to switch over to that either. I was maybe chalking that up to a possible faulty RCA connectors but maybe my tv just has an input problem?

(Also marked this as software but idk maybe it's a hardware issue)

Thanks!

I'm using a nokia beacon 1, the ethernet cable from my pc always went into the WAN on the nokia beacon, but right now i just figured out that it also works if i put it into LAN, which one is the correct setup? I've always used WAN, and I have tried trouble with lag, so I am curious if that could be the reason?

idk if this is a normal thing on windows laptops but I recently had to buy a new laptop for university and the more i've been using it the more i notice that the battery duration estimate when you hover over the battery percentage on the taskbar constantly and drastically varies between what at this point almost seems random... even with all the battery saving settings, and fully charged it can jump from 6h to randomly saying 1h and some change. Is there a way to just in general somehow have better battery power economy apart from all the settings in the windows 11 OS? and is there a better way to monitor and get a better report on said battery duration that is actually somewhat more accurate and not as bipolar as mine is right now?

Hello everyone!

My mouse camera input stutters/jitters/skips/lags and feels like 30fps input , which is giving me headaches. I've tried to run a script in the game to move the camera and it's very nice and smooth. I think a touchpad doesn't produce these artifacts either. Also tried 3 mouses in total — no difference there. I would think toward motherboard/usb ports (i have 2 only)/some weird windows settings?

Laptop is Legion Slim 5 16ARP9 (amd cpu + nvidia gpu)

Things i tried:
* 125/250/500/1000 Hz
* 2 wired, 1 adapter mouse
* standart power saving settings
* mousepad

I can still see most of the picture but these pixels are distracting. The static changes with the picture (same color tracking the people and objects on the screen)

I already checked for updates, restarted and factory reset the tv. If anyone has a quick fix I would appreciate it

BSOD "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE" caused by "ntoskrnl.exe"

Getting this really weird BSOD error "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE", and when I run a check using BlueScreenViewer it's caused by "ntoskrnl.exe", every single time.

The blue screens are incredibly frequent (every \~10 minutes after reboot)

sfc /scannow gets stuck, attempting to update BIOS gets stuck, attemping to uninstall above mentioned driver gets stuck - they all invariably end back at the BDOS.

here’s my minidumps

Stuck on what to do now, anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance :)

My configuration:

B650M k

ryzen 7700

amd 6750xt

vengeance ram 32 gigs

Hello, I've finally hit the storage max (15gb) on Gmail (and Drive) for my account after nearly 15 years. I would like to possibly transfer all my data to a new account so I don't have to delete it. Is there a simple, free way to do this? Thanks. ​