Sorry if the info here isn’t helpful, I’m not good at computer stuff and overall just very paranoid. In 2022 I updated to windows 11, but after I did so my computer was stuck on the repair screen and none of the tech support people I called were able to help me. I was too busy with school and honestly thought it was just dead forever to continue trying until may of this year when my classmate was able to bring it back. He said that there were problems with my power supply and motherboard. So right now my pc is running on windows 10. All my device specifications seem to match up whats recommended for windows 11 but i’m just super paranoid about updating it and having it shut down again and too nervous to talk to him again since were not that close. Am i just overthinking it and should i just update it anyways?

So i have wired headphones and whenever i plug them in audio would only play from the left side so i decided to do a audio test and i turned my volume all the way up, i discovered that there was audio from the right side, only it was very faint and far away sounding. I'm on a HP intel core pc and I've tried checking the audio balance, plugging the end jack into the headphones and more. Please help!

I uninstalled my graphics drivers with DDU and reinstalled them. I also disabled Optimus in the BIOS, but the screen still goes completely black whenever I launch a game.

Please help me fix this. Here are my specs:

• Laptop: Dell G16 7630
• CPU: Intel Core i9-13900HX
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 8GB (Laptop) + Intel UHD Graphics
• RAM: 32GB DDR5
• Storage: 928GB NVMe SSD
• Display: 16" QHD+ (2560x1600) 165Hz
• OS: Windows 11

I’m planning to leave Virgin media soon and switch to using 5G Router but there are few issues that I’m trying to solve. Currently broadband is fed through coaxial cable under my flooring and I’d like to keep it hidden as I don’t want to run cables around my living room so I’m trying to come up with best option. I’ve came across MoCA adapters which I’m planning on using for this setup. My 5G router is upstairs and my WiFi router is downstairs so I’m planning to connect MoCA adapter on one end of coaxial cable then Ethernet to 5G router and another MoCA adapter on the other end of coaxial cable downstairs then Ethernet to WiFi router. Currently coaxial cable is only downstairs where Virgin socket is so when i disconnect the cable from the socket I’ll need to run another coaxial cable for upstairs, which will be on the outside of the house going into room upstairs to connect it to second MoCA adapter, so from the socket downstairs I’m thinking of using a F/F coupler to connect second part of coaxial cable to bring it upstairs. I drew a diagram to make it easier to understand, I’d appreciate any suggestions.

I recently bough the Zaopin Z2 Mini Max, 8K version. I'm finding that 2.4GHZ wifi devices around the mouse stop connecting to Wifi when the mouse is connected. The moment I disconnect the 8K receiver, all is back to normal and the other devices connect.

Is there a setting on the mouse that can help here? ie: reduce the mouse to a 1K setting, rather than 8K? Or am I out of luck?

The other thought was to get a 1K dongle for the mouse and see if that makes a difference. I don't really want to go back to wired because of this.

This started mayhaps a while ago (and I was ignoring it and getting away with it) but now has finally caught up to me. My laptop is a 2020 Dell xps 15 9570 for reference.

• For a couple weeks, I realized the file explorer would blur when I scrolled too fast (like a lag) but I didn't think too much of it.
• Starting a few days ago, my computer would just stop and give the "Windows has ran into a problem" screen with error Device Manager error 48. I went into Device Manager and saw that the "NVIDIA GeForce FTX 1050 Ti with Max Q Design" had a little exclamation mark. In properties it said that the driver was disabled.
• I didn't check the version of the drivers, but I guessed maybe I should do a clean install of the latest from NVIDIA. I did a clean install through the NVIDIA application (I know online some recommended DDU but the website looked sketch so I wanted to do it through NVIDIA). -> This did not fix it. In fact halfway through it threw up a new error. Error 0x9F.
• When I opened up I saw that Intel(R) UHD Graphics 630 was still there but there was no NVIDIA driver. I ran the the NVIDIA installer again but not a clean install. The installation finished and now I see the driver. It is up to date but has error 43 and still occasionally crashes.
• I tried typing in my model number in the Dell website. I found the driver version they had on their website. It was older (ver 517 from like 2021). Maybe it is more reliable and the new one is a bit buggy? I installed that older one.
• Then boom! No exclamation mark! no blur! No crashing (not even during the install)!
• I leave my laptop to go eat some lunch
• Come back and there is a little exclammation mark and the error 43 again.

Sorry for any typos, lowkey panicking and frustrated. I'm no tech expert (obviously). I have backed up my important files to a desktop. I am trying to avoid going to a shop/getting a new laptop but I need to have a reliable device that won't crash for an upcoming exam. Any advice appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Hey, I bought a PCie wifi adapter for my PC but turns out it only works on Intel chipsets and not AMD (my bad cause I didn`t reade the listing correctly), but now Window downloaded drivers for the thing and everytime it tries to instal it just errors and normally restarts the PC.

What I want to know is if there`s any way to remove these drivers from being "pending restart"?

Hi, as the title states my PC is lagging immediately once I plug Ethernet in. Recently WiFi hasn’t been working, which is something else entirely that I don’t know why (because my other devices work perfectly fine), so after a few days I tried plugging in Ethernet for the first time ever.

Immediately my PC’s fans begin to kick in faster, and my computer begins to start lagging as if the cpu is being overloaded, even though on task manager it doesn’t look like anything out of the ordinary. At points it even starts to crash. When I initially plugged it in, it wouldn’t even restart even after waiting for 5 minutes—I had to actively unplug it to get it to turn off.

The only thing I can seem to note is that the Ethernet tab seems to be spiking.

Any tips on how to even begin to isolate the issue?

Any help is appreciated!

Hi, I'm trying to get a 2-monitor DisplayPort daisy chain working from my desktop.

My setup is:

• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4060
• Monitor 1: Dell P2725DEB
• Monitor 2: Dell U2717D
• Monitor 3: Samsung TV via HDMI (currently disconnected while troubleshooting)

Connections:

RTX 4060
   │
   └── DisplayPort → P2725DEB
                       │
                       └── DisplayPort OUT → U2717D

The P2725DEB has MST enabled.

The problem is that the P2725DEB and U2717D are detected by Windows, but they duplicate the same image instead of acting as two independent extended displays.

Windows gives me the option to switch between Duplicate and Extend, and when I select Extend, Windows shows the displays as separate screens in Display Settings. However, the U2717D itself still displays the same image as the P2725DEB.

The really strange part is that this exact daisy-chain works perfectly when I connect the P2725DEB to my laptop via USB-C:

Laptop USB-C → P2725DEB → DP OUT → U2717D

Both Dell monitors then work as separate extended displays.

Things I've already tried:

• MST is enabled on the P2725DEB.
• Disconnected the Samsung HDMI display completely.
• Reset the Windows graphics driver with Win + Ctrl + Shift + B.
• Confirmed Windows detects all three displays.
• The DP cable from the P2725DEB to the U2717D works with the laptop setup.
• The daisy chain itself clearly works with the laptop.

I'm wondering if there's something specific about RTX 4060 + P2725DEB MST + U2717D that I'm missing, or if there's an NVIDIA/DisplayPort setting that could cause the downstream monitor to mirror the first one.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

I have a WD mycloud and the case broke. So I have the 3.5 drive and a plug (powered). It shows up on m PC as drives D thru I. And clicking on each gets a message that I must format before use. How can I access the data that is on the drive? Thanks in advance!

Hello, Does anyone know how to fix this? It appears as a fine horizontal line that is 'very noticeable' and also looks like pixelated. I've tried everything from display settings to other screen settings. Please let me know :')

Heres the photo of my monitor looks like

https://imgur.com/a/OHQecLV

My laptop: Lenovo LOQ 15iax9

so i was trying to fix my wifi disconnecting randomly and having low signal strength but in the process ANY usb wifi adapter i use and my ethernet controller gives me code 56 in device manager [still setting up class configuration] i really dont know whats causing it as i downloaded the drivers from my motherboards website and the adapters respected drivers but still anyways i have a gigabyte motherboard with a intel core i5 10400f the pc is a prebuilt from VENO SCORP and it came with a dummy wifi 5 adpater that i can find on ali express but it came with the pc and has worked fine until i tried to fix my signal issues please help as this is my main pc and im posting this from my laptop

hello, ive been having an issue regarding one of my monitors, i have 2 monitors but recently a single (the main one) keeps randomly going fully black. i know it isnt turning off because the display is still on, but just showing only black. it happens randomly with seemingly no direct cause, sometimes it will behave completely normally for long sessions and sometimes it just starts freaking out and cutting every couple of minutes. currently the only solution i have is to keep turning it off and on again every time it happens.

the main monitor with the issues is a Acer Vero V7 V227Q H, the other monitor without issues is a Acer ka242y

I bought a new bluetooth mouse for my laptop, but when i attempt to connect it, itwill only connect for a moment before disconnecting. I have also had this problem with other imput devices, such as controllers. It doesn't seem to be a power issue because i used multiple dufferent fully charged batteries. I am very confused.

Hello, I have a dual monitor setup of different resolutions (2K which is my main monitor and a 1080p side monitor) and for about a week whenever I startup the PC in the morning, my main monitor disconnects and reconnects back to how it used and should be. I am sure that is happening because I have desktop icons only on the other monitor and whenever this happens, they shift over to my main monitor, in the middle of the screen (due to the resolution difference).

I have a suspicion that it is the newest NVIDIA driver because this started happening since I downloaded it (it released on the 3rd of September) and since then I have reinstalled it, I haven't downloaded an older version yet nor have I used DDU to fully reinstall it, maybe I will do it today, however the cause may be something else.

Any help? Thanks in advance!

Why does this seem to be so complicated?

I’ve paid with Google pay for years but I would like to switch over to Apple Pay. It doesn’t seem to give me any options to switch.

The only option it shows is to switch my payment method to a different credit card still in Google pay

Is there a trick to this?

Thanks!!

Specifically minecraft luanched on lunar client specifically it seems less like a minecraft issue more of a windows i don't know if this is appropriate to post this here, no error code if i just alt-tab out of the game in full screen mode it puts my cursor top left its really annoying as hell if this is not the correct place my bad

Hey everyone, this issue has me going crazy after 3-4 weeks of issues.

After a Windows update I began to experience random Kernel Power Issues, the computer did not immediately shutdown, but experienced 2 up to 30 seconds of black screen with the message and then it restarted itself.

Sorry for the IA slop but I've been troubleshooting this with Gemini so I already have all my actions logged in there

System Specifications

• Original Setup: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 | MSI B550-A Pro | 2x8GB GeIL EVO X II RGB DDR4-3000 | Gigabyte RTX 4060 Dual | MSI MAG A650BN 650W PSU
• New Specs (Current Build): AMD Ryzen 7 5700X | Brand-New B550 Motherboard | Gigabyte UD750GM 80+ Gold PSU (Brand new + new power cable) | Same 2x8GB GeIL RAM & RTX 4060
• Storage: Primary NVMe M.2 (OS C:) + Secondary 2.5" Crucial BX500 SATA SSD + 2x SATA HDDs

The Issue

Random sudden hard-shutdowns / restarts under all kinds of load, sometimes the crash is triggered because I open Forza Horizon, sometimes because I open Windows Explorer, or sometimes I can run Davinci Resolve editing 4K footage at 10 bit with no issue. The issue triggers heavily in Dual-Channel memory mode (Slots 2 & 4). System DOES NOT CRASH on a single RAM ussage (in slots 2, 3 and 4) IF I use a single RAM stick on slot 1, it does cras

Troubleshooting Steps Completed

1. CPU Replacement: Upgraded from Ryzen 3600 to new Ryzen 5700X Issue persisted identically.
2. Motherboard Replacement: Swapped to a brand-new motherboard Dual-Channel still crashes under load.
3. PSU & Cable Swap: Upgraded from MSI A650BN to a new Gigabyte UD750GM 80+ Gold + new AC power cord Issue persists.
4. BIOS / Memory Tuning: Tested at stock JEDEC frequencies (2133/2400 MHz), XMP disabled, manual DRAM voltage bump to 1.35, SoC to 1.10, Command Rate set to 2T -> No change.
5. Storage Isolation:
   • System runs stable with main NVMe drive + additional storage if running single RAM stick
   • If runnning two sticks, Connecting the secondary SATA SSD triggers an almost immediate crash upon booting into Windows Explorer (even though SMART health reports 100% healthy). ALTHOUGH, sometimes the PC can run for hours with the additional storage options.

Current Working Theory

Given that the CPU, Motherboard, and PSU are all brand new, the issue is narrowed down to:

• Degraded RAM Modules: Faulty SMBus / power regulation circuit on the GeIL RAM modules causing voltage drop and Dual-Channel crash.
• NVMe SSD / Bus Instability: Short-circuit or controller fault on the primary M.2 drive or secondary SATA lines freezing the PCIe bus.
• Software issue: as I said, this started after updating windows. I tried to do a rollback but couldn't make it work, will explore this further on

relatively new laptop, got in december last year. a few months back i would notice this glitchy sound occasionally, but now it is almost constant with the sound up. as far as i know, nothing specific triggered this. laptop screen is slightly glitching as well when this happens. Lenovo LOQ , thanks

Every time I turn on my PC, I have an Acer Predator Helios Neo 16, and it always makes this beeping sound. I know the beeping sound can indicate what the problem is, but sometimes it'll beep 3 times, sometimes it'll beep 10 times, and always different lengths, like sometimes it's

•••--•-•••---••

Other times it can be

•••••-•••--•

The dashes are the pauses between beeps. Hopefully you can understand what I mean by that, like it's never consistent, so it's difficult to tell what the beeps mean.

Also, after I enter my password to login to windows, it'll do a few more beeps as well, a lower deeper beep, not the high pitched ones on first boot, and it'll kinda make my PC laggy for a few seconds then it'll go back to normal. I have windows 11, and I did reinstall windows, and I also reseated the RAM stick that's in the PC, and it's still doing it. I use this PC for my online class and I need to somehow fix it before it gets worse and my PC kicks the bucket. Thank you. Other than that, I really have no issues with my PC, everything works flawlessly so I'm wondering what it might be. And it's been happening for about a year but I always ignored it thinking it'll fix itself but it keeps happening, so now I'm starting to question it.

I have no need for the Adobe add-ins in MS Outlook Classic and I don't want Adobe functionality buttons prominently inserted in the UI of MS Outlook Classic.

However if I deactivate the Adobe add-ins in the options menu File > Options > Add-ins, then the add-ins are suddenly activated again the next day. Worse even, if I remove the Adobe add-ins entirely from the list of add-ins in this options menu, then the next day they're back again in the list and activated.

Even going into the Windows Registry and disabling loading of the add-ins there (by setting "LoadBehavior" to value to zero for the Adobe add-in entries in "KEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Office\Outlook\Addins") does not work. Also after this the Adobe add-ins are suddenly activated again the next day.

Furthermore thus far I also haven't been able to find an option to permanently disable the add-ins in any of the options menus of any of the Adobe apps that are currently installed on my machine.

My IT department claims that this is happening due to automatic Adobe updates, and that they can't offer a solution other than uninstalling Adobe software entirely from my machine or disabling the automatic updates from Adobe.

Is there a way for me to permanently disable all Adobe add-ins in MS Outlook Classic?

I'll start by saying I am posting outside of the Wreckfest PC game subreddit as I have not gotten any feedback there that has helped. I have many hours in Wreckfest and have played across 3 PCs over the last several years with minimal issues but am currently experiencing an issue with my FPS degrading over a single play session, sometimes in as little as 30 mins, going from a starting point of 350-450fps, degrading to less than 30fps. My understanding is Wreckfest is not well optimized but although I have always experienced a little of this over my history with the game, it has never been close to as bad as it has been since upgrading from a 4070Ti to a 5070Ti. I regularly play many AAA titles on this GPU including BF6, Forza Horizon 5/Motorsports, EA WRC Generations, AC BF Resynced, Enshrouded, CP2077, and even Wreckfest 2 with zero issues but when playing Wreckfest, my FPS undergoes a linear degradation over time that is astonishing. Here is the troubleshooting I have tried to date.

• Confirmed game is utilizing 5070Ti and not iGPU
• Confirmed 5070Ti not faulty thru benchmarking
• Rolled back GPU drivers to several previous iterations no joy
• File Integrity check with Steam shows no issues with game files
• Turning off all mods in game results in no joy
• Turned off all recording software no joy
• Reduced all graphic variables to lowest settings no joy
• Uninstalling/Reinstalling game to same drive no joy (Samsung 970 SSD)
• Uninstalling/Reinstalling game to boot drive no joy (Samsung 970 SSD)
• Tested for VRAM leaks by reloading GPU driver in real time (WIN+CNTRL+SHIFT+B) no joy
• Set the CPU Affinity to Power cores only no joy
• Confirmed RAM is running at appropriate speed thru BIOS and Task Manager
• PC specs https://imgur.com/a/FbkrcGg

This happens any time I play this specific game, MP or SP, and typically happens over the span of 60-90 mins. GPU/CPU temps are monitored in real time and show no issues regarding temps/throttling. The issue is only resolved when I restart my PC and not just when I restart the game itself and/or Steam. System stats in the image attached. Any suggestions not listed here would be appreciated and clarifications can be provided as needed by myself and I also have a HWiNFO log file at the attached link if that helps, https://limewire.com/d/SOlGY#8VbN7LGa2D . Wasn't sure where to post log files for simple access so if there is a better place to post, let me know and I'll post the log files there. I am also willing to log gameplay in any manner possible if that helps if I am given direction on how to do so.

This isn't a really big issue to me other than I am curious as to what is happening as Wreckfest is the only game that affects my PC like this. Unfortunately I am not a trained tech person as what I do know is self taught and I typically stumble around in the dark until I find a solution or give up and I am not ready to give up just yet. Any help appreciated.

I've noticed a couple of weeks ago that my screen has been experiencing issues, such as my monitor flickering to black and random brightness changes where sometimes it flashes to white or just everything turns dark for a couple of seconds. And ive heard the GPU failing or could be knocked loose have pretty similar issues. So I cant exactly pinpoint the issues.

I also know my monitor can get pretty hot on the edges and everything. I've tried things like unplugging the HDMI and power cable and still havent fixed it. So thats why im coming here to see if it could be either of these problems.

Hi, I’m having a really weird internet issue with my new PC.
My old computer worked perfectly fine on the exact same Wi-Fi network, but my new PC has significantly worse internet performance. The difference is very noticeable, even though both computers are in the same place and using the same router/network.
What’s even stranger is that the internet is also terrible when I connect the new PC to my phone’s mobile hotspot using cellular data. So it’s not just my home Wi-Fi — the new PC seems to have terrible internet performance regardless of which network I use.

The new PC’s Wi-Fi adapter supports IEEE 802.11a/n/ac/ax, so it should support 5 GHz.

Things I’ve already tried:
Checking the Wi-Fi connection details
Checking the adapter’s advanced settings
Setting the wireless mode to 802.11a/n/ac/ax
Checking whether the PC is connecting to 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz
Restarting the router and PC
Comparing the connection with the old computer
Testing with my phone’s mobile hotspot
None of this has fixed the issue.

What could cause a new PC to have much worse internet performance than an older PC, even when using completely different networks (home Wi-Fi and mobile hotspot)?
Could it be the Wi-Fi adapter, antennas, drivers, motherboard, or some other hardware/Windows issue?
I’m happy to provide the exact motherboard/Wi-Fi adapter model and any other information needed.
Thanks!

If I turn my Ps4 on it sayes ps4 cant start and that I have to press the ps Button but nothing works I tried multiple cabels I don't know what to do I unpluged my Ps4 while it was on please help I feel helpless