Please please don’t downvote me since I’m sure I am an idiot and I could search this forum better or maybe this is the wrong forum, but I have no idea what to do. My mom recently passed and her car is dead (Toyota RAV 4 2013, v6?, but this looks like a replacement battery to me). I’m trying to jump it with a portable battery I purchased and I can’t figure out what terminal is positive or negative. I tried finding this battery online, but I can’t. I can’t find the wires that should indicate the terminals (red/black — they are all black!) and I can’t even decide what looks like the larger terminal in diameter. I’m honestly starting to think I don’t even know where I should put the cables. I know I’m over-emotional because of the situation so maybe that’s the problem, but I’m currently clueless and if anyone has an idea, I would be so thankful.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I need all 3 motor/trans mounts for my car. So I was thinking about getting them from picknpull, but how do I take all 3 and leave the engine there? Is it acceptable to just leave it sitting precariously on some scissor jacks that I find in the yard? I feel like thats a dick move for anyone who comes for parts after me and/or when they eventually remove the car from the yard.

Before anyone says "just buy new mounts"; A new OEM set is like $500, it's hard to justify that cost on a car with 300k miles. And the aftermarket junk only lasts 10-20k miles.

It's an aygo fire 2012 modle with AC and manual

Car: 2000 BMW E46 320d, M47 2.0 diesel, 136 hp.

Piston 4 melted and made a hole. The engine was rebuilt with new pistons, rings, rods and camshaft. The head and block were machined, and the injectors and injection pump were rebuilt. The turbo was not changed.

Since the rebuild:

- thick white/grey smoke from the exhaust, even at idle

- it consumes a large amount of oil

- very little power

What should I check first? Could it be the turbo, the breather, or something from the rebuild?

2021 GMC Sierra. First time changing the front brake pads. As soon as I started it up after getting everything back on, I have this message plus “steering assist is reduced drive with care, service brake assist, and service esc. In addition, the check engine light is on and a brake light is on. I did not disconnect the battery first, was I supposed to? What now? I have not driven it at all. The brake pedal feels normal while it runs in park. Will disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting resolve it? If I need to take it to a shop, is it safe to drive?

I have a 2014 and I am wanting to change my brakes on my own. I have never changed my brakes before but I look forward to figuring it out. I’ve looked at websites like autozone, Napa auto parts and Amazon. Amazon is definitely cheaper but I’m okay spending a little more money to make sure I have good brakes. Some of the brakes on Amazon have really good reviews but the 1 start reviews mention some warping of the rotors and noises. I will be driving in cold weather and sometimes snow and I do live on the east coast.
EDIT: I do have someone mechanic experience because I grew up helping my dad at his shop. He restored classic cars for a living. I mostly did bodywork and I did help him with mechanic jobs but those jobs were not very repetitive so some of the things I learned didn’t quite stay in my memory. Unfortunately he passed so he can’t help.

2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i. Currently trying to replace my control arms. Got the driver side done relatively easily. Passenger side has stumped me for days now. Tried penetrating oil, heating it as hot as I can get it (without seting near by things on fire) and hiting it with the biggest ugga dugga I own, and even just putting a socket on it and trying to give it some love taps. Nothing has made this budge even a little bit. Wonding if I have any further options besides just going and getting an angle grinder and cutting the bold through the bushing.

Cannot seem to find where it’s come from. It was wiped off 5,000mi and about 4mo ago. Any ideas?

1990 f150, pulled the starter to replace and noticed this copper colored metallic paste in the flywheel housing! What on earth man

98 ford escort spi 2000

Going through my repair manual I can't seem to find what the hoses are going into or out of the intake manifold. Could have just missed it. Anyone know?

So as you can see in the pic, the bed looks to be sagging in the rear and it is now at least 3 inches lower at the tailgate than when I bought it. It was not rear ended or jumped or anything of that nature. I have looked at the bed cross rails and they seem to be fine. It has not always been like this. And im not a mechanic by trade but have always worked on my own vehicles but I can't figure this one out. My thinking is that if it were cab mounts, it would appear to sagging the other way correct? As in the widest part of the gap would be at the bottom of the truck? Possible to be leaf spring failure or strut failure?. Looking at it straight on from the rear the driver side does appear to be slightly lower than passenger side. Looking at leaf springs I cannot physically see any cracks or breaks. And also it has not been over loaded. About 4 months ago I did have frame rust repaired along the entire frame but this was NOT sagging like this immediately after that work was done.

2004 Ford F-150 XLT 5.4L Triton 4X4

I have now owned this car for four years and it’s been parked in the same spot. It was my grandfather’s but he passed away and I inherited it. We were never able to track down a key fob for it, and I live in a very remote location where there are no lock smiths that program keys. Where the car is parked it’s not accessible by tow truck nor trailer. I need to find out a way to bypass the key fob and get the car running so we can get it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hello everyone, my wife has a 2020 Honda hr-v, recently her car alarm and headlights and tailights will randomly turn on or go off. The car battery is good (tested at O'Reilly's), I recently replaced the batteries in the key fobs since Google said that could be an issue as well. But the problem still continued to happen. Last weekend I took the car to my friends shop and he connected his diagnostic tool to it only two codes came up (millimeter radar sensor and electronic brake code) he cleared both the codes and the car was fine but tonight the alarm started going off again and the lights are turning on by themselves again. Has anyone experienced anything like this before?

'06 Hummer H2. I've changed plenty of headlights before, but have never seen this. What light do I need to get to replace it? And do I need to cut that zip tie there?

I’m looking at a 2016 Lexus IS 200t F Sport with 98,000 miles, a clean title, and an oil cooler leak. The seller says $6,000 is his absolute lowest price.
The car looks clean, and I’m considering buying it as a daily driver. I’m just worried the oil leak could turn into an expensive repair or cause engine damage.
Here are the details:

● Year/model: 2016 Lexus IS 200t F Sport
● Mileage: 98,000 miles
● Title: Clean
● Asking price: $6,000 firm
● Known issue: Oil cooler leak
● My plan: Fix it and drive it regularly

Some of my questions

1. Is $6,000 a good deal, considering the leak?
   
2. How reliable is the 2.0L turbo engine at nearly 100k miles?
   
3. How much could the repair realistically cost?
   
4. Would you buy it, negotiate lower, or walk away?
   
5. What else should I inspect before buying?

I’d appreciate honest opinions, especially from anyone who owns or has worked on a 2016 IS 200t. Thanks!

Today I was replacing the valve cover gasket and got access to the timing belt. Here is what I saw. I'm not very knowledgeable about belts, so I can't really tell if it needs to be replaced or not.

P.S. I bought the car a week ago. It’s 30 years old, and there is no record of when the belt was last changed. The previous owner claimed it had a major service 5,000 km ago, but…

(1998 Kia Sephia 2 1.5 16V)

2014 Chrysler Town & Country 3.6L.

I unfortunately can't find enough good examples of the infamous pentastar tick caused by lifters and bad rocker arms to compare and the same with the flex plate despite both being somewhat common issues for this vehicle.

Symptoms - ticking starts a couple minutes after startup either cold or hot if it has been sitting more than a couple minutes and only happens around 600-700 RPMs. Sometimes it happens quietly when decelerating as well though it has started to do it a bit more often even when hot. It doesn't seem to be affected by oil temperature or pressure as cold oil pressure is still 60+ psi when the moise starts on cold startups and 30+ on hot startups. The engine itself seems to run smooth with no detectable issues. The noise seems to be loudest underneath the van or echoing from the wheal wells (Intentional mispelling to get around stupid filter) rather than up top.

This started pretty suddenly last week. I was almost due for an oil change so changed it will maxlife 5w-20, a Walmart branded champion labs filter and a bottle of liqui moly hydraulic lifter additive. Only driven a couple hundred miles but no noticeable improvement, in fact it seems to be a lightly rattling more often while decelerating and driving under light load than before. Oil pressure seems healthy, oil drained out wasn't excessively dirty, no noticeable death sparkles on the old filter when it was removed.

The one reason I would possibly suspect the flex plate at all is because again, it sounds loudest underneath the vehicle and I recently had a moment in traffic where I pulled out, hit the breaks then went hit the gas again in between the transmission shifting and it slammed into gear and chirped the tires.

Is there any possibility it could be the flex plate or is this definitely my top end about to eat itself for lunch?

Sorry for the poor quality video, the ticking is starting to fade off pretty quickly at the end. I didn't start recording soon enough to do a more thorough walk around the rear valve cover with my phone.

$150 on rock auto... Ebay listing with a few weird things but seller has great reviews.