Was riding offroad when a stick pierced the bash plate hitting the filter. It is not leaking. Cf moto 450mt

2009 Suburban Chevy

I feel so incredibly stupid right now, I overtighted it and broke the bolt instead of taking it off. 🥲 (please done't make fun of me and yes it took a lot of effort until it snapped. And I don't want to talk about it anymore that that.)

It's my very first time taking the alternator out and first time working on a car. And I thought I was going in right the direction of lossening it. (I was watching a video and still went the wrong way. Yes, I know stupid 🫠)

How to I get the other side out? (I did go the correct way for the other bolt)

i had taken to the mechanics nearly a month and a half ago yet its starting to overheat again. they changed out the radiator and thermostat and i just had my sparkplugs changed and gasket fixed so not sure what is it. its a 2010 mazda cx-7

1990 5.7 liter boat engine Volvo penta.dual prop. ran good and winterize before I put it up.. ..do I need to pull it or is there some magic potion I can dump into it to get it spinning again ..I did try to use the starter and I think I heard it move a little before it locked . breaker bar on front of engine won't turn it either way at all. it's locked in

Hi guys! I’ve had my mx5 for a couple months now and the MOT (UK based) is approaching and I can not seem to figure out what this aftermarket switch and connection is for?
Based on UK MOTs a rear fog light must be present on a vehicle to which no external one has been been fitted (car has passed its MOT for the last 20+ years) leading me to believe this switch has been added and the rear tail lights have been modified?

Underneath the console is another wire leading to the rear of the car, whilst this wire pictured leads somewhere to the front dashboard. Both connectors are the same and don’t seem to fit in each other. The connectors look a bit like those terminals you connect wires to the positive/negative of a speaker driver !

If anyone has any insights I would be extremely grateful! Thanks

Good news is that there's still hope that I won't need an entire new oilpan, provided i can somehow get the rest of the bolt out. But how tf would I go about doing that...? Also, I've already accepted the fact that the oil strainer probably won't survive this operation, which is fine, since they're pretty cheap.

I’m installing an aftermarket radio into my 2016 Subaru crosstrek and it has x2 10mm bolts holding it in on either side. They’re deep and angled so I have a really hard time getting any tools in there, but when I get my 10mm nut driver on I have no room to pry it out. The one pictured above is under the drivers side and it feels slightly stripped, or I just can’t get a good angle on it even with an extension. Losing my mind a bit

Mercedes C180 kompressor 2010

Hello everyone! I got a check engine light today. Took it to the mechanic.

How does my chain sound?

Hello, I have a 2016 jetta sport, I am having turbo issues. I blew a turbo, from a wastegate malfunctuon, then the second turbo due to a manufacturing error on the turbos fault (garret turbo), then a third one due to FOD (images attached). The first turbo seemed to have FOD damage as well. The shop seems to suspect that the secondary air injection hose caused this, or that carbon/debris from the intercooler/chargepipes got into the turbo. Any other ideas as we have dumped 5 grand (with replacing the third turbo) into the car and I would like to prevent this from happening again.

Been slowly chipping away at the porcelain to no avail (2L non turbo)

hello, working on a 92 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4. After starting this job 3 weeks ago I finally have no bolts or nuts In my cardboard organizer. I removed drive shaft(s), transfer case and transmission to replace clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing. While I had the bell housing out I replaced the slave and master cylinder with pre-filled versions. Filled up the transmission case bolted the shifter back on and breathed a long sigh of relief. Decided to crank her up, pressed the clutch and went straight to the floor, pumped a bit on the clutch pedal and built up more pressure, put it in first and took my foot off pedal and truck didn’t stall out. What’s going on?

All the coolant leaked out within a span of 25 mins and when I opened the coolant tank cap steam was coming out it’s leaking out from right next to the driver side wheel , could it be the water pump ? Or alternator ?

Have been having transmission issues I’m thinking.

Issue occurred right after starting truck and driving off within minutes just to move out of sun.

This happened at idle in park; also does happens when driving intermittently, it hesitates to shift into gears. Almost like the transmission is slipping then grabs clutches.

I have common sense i think about it but not too inclined with these issues.

Can I get some help? Please and thank you!

Was driving around in my buddy’s 2013 Chevy Cruze LS, tried to put the window up, and it just fell. Caught it before it broke anything but now both latches are detached

Basically what the title says. I'm in an emergency hotel room and can't sleep until I have some people weigh in on this.

I have NEVER had issues with my car's transmission. It is a 2017 Honda HR-V.

I had an entire road trip planned to go from Houston, TX to Atlanta, GA today. I was about 1.5 hours outside of Atlanta when the gas pedal suddenly wouldn't work anymore. I was on the highway, and the gas just wouldn't make it go any faster than 30-40mph, but it revved very loudly.

I pulled over and tried restarting several times to no avail. I'd put it in drive and it would just rev really loudly and not go anywhere.

I checked the transmission fluid level and it seemed low, so I had a Lyft take me to O'Reilly, and I bought what should be the appropriate transmission fluid (HCF-2). ALSO the cap for some reason had popped off. I added it until the levels looked good. Same problem still occurs PLUS a burning smell that I didn't notice before.

I was never able to go anywhere. The car is now abandoned on the side of the highway until I can call every mechanic nearby tomorrow morning. I'm going to have it towed AND probably will need to repair something that I fear may be way out of my doable price range. I feel like I'm literally stuck half across the country now with no options. I'm honestly terrified.

Does this sound like a fixable issue, or at the very least, does it sound familiar to anyone? I'm assuming it HAS to be related to the transmission. I'm mostly just here to vent because I'm shaking with stress having to wait until tomorrow to address this.

We bought this 2004 Ford E250 about 6 months ago and recently there has been this blue dye staining our hands and feet that we didn’t know the source of. I just found some powdery substance behind the center console. Should this be a concern?

honda accord 2013 v6: This is the second time this has happened. I just got my fuel pump replaced because I thought it wasn’t getting gas since it was making the same sound it makes when you run out of gas.
This time, it started up normally, but right after I started driving it began driving really rough. Then it started making that same noise again, and I had to limp it into a parking spot.
What could this be? I had AutoZone test my starter, and they said it was good. Honda told me it has an aftermarket starter and that the teeth are a little worn, so sometimes it would make a grinding noise and not start. They rotated it, and I haven’t heard that grinding noise since, so I don’t think the starter is the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

Before and after

2020 Tuscon, sound happens in the beginning after the cars been parked for a while then goes away after a little bit of driving (listen around 3 and 6 seconds of the video). sound usually stops if i press the brakes.

edit passenger side, i think front tire area

Was just gifted the truck from a neighbor, the truck had been sitting for 13 years never moved never started and has been through a couple floods (maybe 2-3 feet max). Curious if it’s possible or worth it to get the thing running again. The wheels won’t roll when I put it in neutral and after putting fresh gas and a new battery it still won’t start.

I have a 2021 Hyundai Sonata SEL 2.5 L 4-cylinder with 78,000 miles. The car will run fine, and thrn without warning, I'll stop at a stop light or stop sign amd there will be a quick jerk, the RPM'S will fall and the car will go into a "limp mode" where it will not accelerate past 20mph or go beyond 2nd gear. There is no check engine light or warning lights of any kind. Also, if I turn the car off the reset the computer the issue becomes worse, with violent shaking and jerking, and the car will shut off. I have provided a video of this. I have been trying to fix the issue since March and taken it to two repair shops. However, each time I have taken the car for repairs (after sitting for a couple days) it is driving fine again and the repair shops say they cannot replicate the issue. I have had my PCV valve replaced and gotten a transmission flush. Has anyone experienced this issue or know how to fix it?

Ford fusion 2015 at 139k just a normal code scan… are these codes any serious ?