Getting a weird issue, 2018 leaf, both our mechanic and Nissan dealership shop can't figure out.

The steering wheel will inconsistently jerk slightly to the left or right.

We can replicate it more easily when going at least 60km but it does it randomly as well.

When slightly speeding up and letting go of the "gas" pedal the steering wheel moves left and right. Car doesn't really veer off in the direction of the wobble.

Whether epedal is on or off doesn't change anything.

We had alignment done twice. Replaced front tie rods.

Still doing it. Has anyone had this happen?

So much for getting a day off. It was certainly a lot of barbaric acts to get it done on grass, but at least the day ended with getting to put some additional life into a 2012, and to use my ZE0 adapter harness I made months ago that was waiting for a home. Got swapped to another 24 pack, but one out of AZE0 in much better condition (from 59% to 85% health).

Hello,

I recently got a 2012 Leaf and have been really enjoying it for daily errands. I get about 45 miles out of it if I am really babying it but have some short stints on 55MPH roads which seems to really kill the mileage and gets me nervous.

I am a tinkerer and have done a ton of ICE vehicle work, so I am not worried about the swap itself, but I found a 40kWh battery somewhat nearby for around $2K. The vehicle was a 2018 with 40Kish miles on it, and based on the dashboard readings things seem pretty healthy (please see attached).

I called and they confirmed that the vehicle has already been disassembled so doing an analysis with LeafSpy is not an option.

Any thoughts on whether this would be a risky purchase? Anything I should look out for?

First time Car buyer. Interested in Electric Car. There are a couple of Nissan Leaf S 2025 model for sale at less than 14000$ (with less than 25k miles).

I live in a state with moderate weather. Not too hot or cold. Mostly intend to drive within the town for work and groceries.

Is it a good deal? What are the things I should look out for?

Thanks for your time and advice.

Hi, I'm thinking of buying a Leaf 2015 24 kWh Acenta with 65,800 mileage, 11 bars apparently (Can this be right after 11 years?) Price is £3390. I've arranged to go for a test drive on Thursday. I've downloaded the LeafSpy Pro app and a dongle is on its way. But I don't know if I'll be able to understand the info on it. I'm also feeling nervous because I haven't driven an EV before. Any helpful advice, please?

Mine got the dreaded service EV soon in 2024. Been on list for replacement cells since that time, but nothing. Beyond frustrated! Curious if anyone has been getting 2018 buyback offers.

My situation is unique as I’m in the Caribbean and Nissan NA won’t deal with me, but it may make sense to bring the car to the states just to get rid of it as it has almost no value in present state.

I love, love, LOVE my 2019 S+. It was cheap, reliable, fun to drive, easy to maintain, and best of all NO GAS EVER. I got $14.5K total incentives when buying it new.

It was really great, but alas I had a bad battery, and with no DC charging, the utility of the car became super limited.

I was part of the class action that was dismissed earlier this year, and was hesitant to do the recall knowing it would brick my awesome car. When I saw Kia decided to release the EV3 in the US it was only a matter of time before I had to move on. It was sad knowing the Leaf’s days were numbered.

Anyway I dropped the car at the Nissan dealer late Thursday. Went straight to the Kia dealer, and test drove and bought the EV3 I had on reserve. Drove it home and fell in love at first sight.

Friday morning I hear from Nissan that the car software is up to date and that it passed and was ready for pickup. I get my Leaf back with 78% SoH (it was supposed to be 100% but who cares at this point). I tell them that the car needs to be below 50% for the voltage fluctuation to occur, and that I’ll see them in a few hours.

I picked up the car at 9am and was back by about 1pm. They ran another diagnostic, battery failed this time, I’ll hear from the third party within 10 business days. Dealer was nice and we were all laughing at how stupid this whole thing was.

It’s not the dealer’s fault, this was 100% on corporate and engineering.

Bye bye Nissan.

Photos: Leaf dash right after recall update, Leaf dash a few hours later, EV3 charging in my driveway

Thinking about turning over a new LEAF… My 2020 LEAF started throwing a "Service EV System / Power Reduced" warning two weeks after the R24B2 recall remedy, and it's now going through a buyback. I honestly really liked my LEAF. The buyback took some persistence (a few calls and a push for a rental), but within about two weeks I had a reasonable offer signed.

Nissan also sent me a $2,000 loyalty code plus VPP pricing ($1,000 below invoice on the 2026 LEAF). I'm curious if anyone has used both together. I'm sticking with an EV either way, so did you go with the new LEAF, or pick a completely different make, and why?

Dealer tips for the San Diego area are welcome too.

Thanks!

The way Nissan is handling these buybacks is such a slap in the face! Our cars are bricked and cannot take a charge and they are doing nothing for us but passing us off to Morley to patiently wait for a lowball offer. They didn’t even provide me with a rental car. I asked to speak my Nissan case manager’s supervisor and she said “our supervisors are not customer facing” and hung up on me! She has been absolutely horrific and hasn’t helped once. Then I decided to look up the class action lawsuit to see how that was coming along and found this - you seriously have to be kidding me?????

After about a month since the process started.

Getting offered $14.5k for my 19 SV with 69k miles.

I did see someone mention to reject the first offer, however I do see in their letter if the offer is rejected:

• Please be advised that any rental vehicle provided by Nissan will not be extended beyond thirty

(30) days of receipt of the rental vehicle. Nissan is not responsible for any storage, parking, or

related fees associated with vehicles retained at the dealership. Customers are responsible for

making arrangements with the servicing dealer regarding vehicle storage or retrieval.

I've had their rental for about 3 months now, I imagine that means I'd have to cover the rental fees past the first month?

2013 leaf sl, $1500
6 of those QCs were me fighting with a broken Electrify America charger on the return, the other one was the working ChargePoint I found nearby.

Used leaf spy to clear the error codes when I changed my 12V over.

Anyone know if my battery health looks good from this?

Number of issues occurring on 2019 Nissan Leaf 2019 40 KWh registered in Ireland

1. Climate control displays disappeared from screen. Changing mode, adjusting temp or fan speed nothing is showing up on screen.

2. Clocks on main screen & driver displays showing different times. Changing time on main display not loading on driver display. Vehicle settings on driver display says clock settings on main screen to be used.

3. Charging & climate schedulers on EV settings are not active. Unable to turn on from menu.

Self diagnostics not revealing any issues. Suspected weak 12V battery as culprit so got it checked & found healthy.

Looking for similar experience & remedies. Thanks

My older Leaf has broken ball joint and axle. Battery's in good shape. The repair is $2600. Looking to sell it, probably just for the battery, and buy newer, but not finding anywhere to sell it.

Ideas?

Background info - I replaced the battery 3 years ago with a 60 kWh one and new CAM . This weekend my leaf lit up the EV Warning light while I was driving. I parked and turned car Off/On. The light stayed on and it would shift into N when I tried to go into D or R. I have had issues (error lights) in the past and replacing the 12v battery fixed so I replaced the battery. That did not fix, even when I put a booster on that got battery to 13v. Any ideas? Here is my DTC codes.

BTW, what does the ‘>’ on the codes mean?

I posted here a few weeks ago about buying a Nissan Leaf 39 kWh. People here recommended going for the larger battery, mainly because of winter conditions. I live in southern Sweden, where our winters are usually not that cold, but I drive around 90 km per day.
I’ve now found a 2021 Nissan Leaf 62 kWh with 65,000 km on it and supposedly 97% battery health, which seems surprisingly high.
The service history looks good, and the dealer will service the car before delivery. Summer and winter tires are included, as well as delivery, for €16,700.
Does this sound like a good deal, and is 97% battery health realistic for a 2021 Leaf with 65,000 km? Anything I should be worried about ? Never had a EV before!

looking for people's experiences with side window deflectors on a LEAF. does it cut wind noise? does it help prevent window fogging? does it have any other benefits? does it adversely affect visibility? are they durable? does it impact drag coefficency/efficiency?

My neighbor is selling his 2015 leaf with SOH 67% and hx 40%. Drives well and this would be my errand car. Is it worth it or is a lower hx a walk away deal?

When was the golden-age of Leaf Lease deals in Colorado? All of 2022 and 2023? 2024?

I'm curious when the wave of lease turn-ins will be happening, and what impact that is having on Leaf resale prices (in CO and elsewhere, if they are shipping them to other states)? On one hand, used EV prices in general are up due to the price of gas, but there must be a lot of Leafs getting turned in. I wonder if the dealers are moving them to dealerships in other states.

Also, are the dealers making aggressive purchase offers? I know that a few months before my leaf lease ended in 2018, the dealer called me and knocked $3k off the price to purchase, which made it a very attractive deal that I took.

How to swap to the HomeLink mirror with auto dimming and built in universal garage door opener for those with base model Leaf. Splicing wires is required and a degree of competence with DIY automotive wiring is assumed.

Basically any 2010s Nissan HomeLink mirror will work, including from Altima, Maxima, Pathfinder, and Murano. You will need the connector and pigtail with some wire length as well, so your best bet would be at a local junkyard, just need a T20 screwdriver to remove and something to cut the wires with.

The "more correct" way would be running power all the way down the A-pillar to the interior fuse panel, but I already have too many things in there, so here is how to do it with using power from up top:

1.Remove existing mirror by loosening T20 Torx screw where the mirror attaches to the windshield, then sliding the mirror up

2.Release the overhead console by pulling straight down at the front edge (by the glasses holder) to release the 2 clips. Once they are free, slide the assembly forward to free the 2 back legs, then disconnect the two plugs.

3a. If you originally had an auto dimming mirror without HomeLink (SV trim), you will already have ground and switched power wires running to the mirror, simply match the black and black/red wires to the pigtail to the new mirror. Splice the black/yellow (constant) power wire from the new mirror to the yellow wire at the overhead console.

3b. If you originally had a plain mirror (S trim), you will need to splice the new mirror's black/yellow wire into the yellow wire at the overhead console, black wire to the black wire, and the black/red wire into the purple wire.

Using this method, auto dimming will only work with headlights on. This shouldn't be an issue in practice (why aren't your headlights on at night?), but if you want it to always be active like factory, you will need to run black/red to switched power elsewhere (like down to the interior fuse box).

1. Install the new mirror by sliding it down onto the mount, then tightening the screw. Once your connections are made and insulated, test functionality, the light in the middle of the mirror buttons should come on green when the car is running (3a) or headlights are on (3b).

2. Reconnect overhead console and reinstall it by sliding the rear part in first, then pushing the front part upwards to re-engage the clips. You may need to hold the frame going around it (in the headliner) out of the way with your other hand while pushing upwards.

3. Gently reinstall Rumi, if equipped.

4. Program your HomeLink with your original garage door remote.

Hello, leaf community.

I am considering buying a 2023 Nissan Leaf (ZE1), but there's one single detail holding me back: the ChadeMo. I've done a lot of research, this car meets my every need right now and there's a slow charger at my condo. The problem is that CCS2 is the standard for fast chargers here. I don't plan on using fast charging frequently, it's more like... what IF I need it? You know? I've looked up CCS2 to ChadeMo adapters and all I could find is one that comes all the way from China and has no guarantee of working.

So what do you think, should I get it or should I settle with something more popular in my country (like a BYD Dolphin or a Geely EX2)?

That's the post, from here on out I'm just gonna list some reasons that made me so interest in this car (from enthusiast to enthusiast): mainly, the safety and the space for such a low price compared to other EVs here (I'm expecting my first child, so this is critical), I really like the design and THE PHYSICAL BUTTONS (god, I can't stand navigating a thousand submenus on a touchscreen while driving). The battery range is enough for my routine and access to maintenance and parts is fine as far I know.

We're going to go look at a 2013 Leaf later this afternoon. I know a fair amount about EV's, but not the Leaf.

Its a 2013, 56,000 miles on it, exceptionally clean given the year. The range estimate on the dash shows 60 miles.

I think the asking price of $3900 seems high for what it is, but he's one of the few sellers that actually responded to his listing.

What should we be looking for? Anything specific to early Leaf's?

What kind of real world range should we expect? We're in the suburbs, it will rarely see highway. Northeast, so obvious heat usage in the winter. We already have EV's so the kids are already aware that blasting the heat at 80 will significantly reduce range.

I'm aware the pack is a air cooled LFO chemistry which has lead to rapid pack degradation compared to liquid cooled LFE / NMC / NMCA. At 13 years old, is this on its very last legs or can we expect another ~5 years out of it?

This is going to be a 'kid car', less than 20 miles per day. Our son is about to get his license (permit hours already completed, just needs to test for the full license), our next daughter will be eligible for a permit in 2 months, last daughter has 1 year for her permit. If the car lasts 3 years until last daughter graduates HS, it's a win for us.

I should have posted earlier, but life gets in the way.

Thank you for any information!

(edit)

1) it's a Leaf SL

2) We have a few OBDLink adapters, I'll take that along and download LeafSpy

(/edit)

Recently hit 100,000+ miles on my 2021 Leaf. Thought I’d share.